Anchor windlass power supply

[Portage_Bay]

I'm wanting to improve the power supply for the anchor windlass. When hauling anchor it pulls the house bank voltage down enough to cause the nav electronics to restart. Annoying at best, troublesome at times. I'm thinking of using a pair of Victron Orion 24/12 70 DC - DC Converters to take 24 V from the bow thruster bank to 12 V windlass. I'd use two because the windlass is 1500 WATTS, the Victrons are 840 WATTS continuous, 1020 WATTS max, they can be paralleled. Do you see any problems with this approach?

I think the problem is older coarse strand wiring and older connections. While it would be best to run new wires it's not a DIY option, I just don't bend well enough and I'd have to rip up too much finish work. Which means hiring a lot of expen$sive tech help and giving them a chance to mess things up.

 

[O C Diver]

I would start by seeing if you could swap the 12 volt motor for 24 volt. Many windlass manufacturers offer 24 VDC motor options.

Ted

 

[Portage_Bay]

I would start by seeing if you could swap the 12 volt motor for 24 volt. Many windlass manufacturers offer 24 VDC motor options.

Ted

Good idea. I'll look into that.

 

[Bmarler]

Although not ideal, you can put a 12 volt tap on the 24 volt bank. Or a series/parallel switch. But If you might be using the windless and thruster at the same time, the series/parallel isn’t practical.
The 24 volt motor is probably the best solution, reduces the amp draw, likely increasing performance noticeably.

 

[Portage_Bay]

Although not ideal, you can put a 12 volt tap on the 24 volt bank. Or a series/parallel switch. But If you might be using the windless and thruster at the same time, the series/parallel isn’t practical.
The 24 volt motor is probably the best solution, reduces the amp draw, likely increasing performance noticeably.

Sometimes when the anchor is hung up we use engines and thruster to change the direction of pull. I don't use thruster and windlass at the same time, one or the other. I'm not familiar with a series parallel switch. This would put the series thruster bank into parallel to be a 12 V supply? Interesting idea.

 

[SteveK]

If your engine start battery is 12v, you could try switching over from the house bank. That is how I have done it. Engines are running while pulling anchor. Start battery is quickly recharged and house is not depleted or affected.

 

[Portage_Bay]

If your engine start battery is 12v, you could try switching over from the house bank. That is how I have done it. Engines are running while pulling anchor. Start battery is quickly recharged and house is not depleted or affected.

I don't like to take anything off the start bank other than engine starting. I can understand your point that I've already got the engines running. But....

The other issue is I can't just switch over and expect improved performance without running new wires which I'm trying to avoid.

 

[Bmarler]

Sometimes when the anchor is hung up we use engines and thruster to change the direction of pull. I don't use thruster and windlass at the same time, one or the other. I'm not familiar with a series parallel switch. This would put the series thruster bank into parallel to be a 12 V supply? Interesting idea.

Yes, exactly. Changes the connections of the cables so you can use two twelve volt batteries in either configuration with the flip of a switch.
Like this:https://www.amazon.com/Gladiator-Pa...59076649&sr=8-21#averageCustomerReviewsAnchor

 

[SteveK]

I don't like to take anything off the start bank other than engine starting. I can understand your point that I've already got the engines running. But....

The other issue is I can't just switch over and expect improved performance without running new wires which I'm trying to avoid.

I understand. My boat was easy to swap as both start and house main wires terminate in a switch cabinet with heavy wires to the bow.

 

[Bmarler]

Here’s a simple schematic, just substitute 12 volts for the 6 in the picture.

 

[rharper]

I had the same problem but other loads would occasionally trip the helm instruments also. Very annoying. I added a DC-DC converter for the helm instruments and it solved the problem. A lot cheaper than repowering the winch.

 

[Bmarler]

I had the same problem but other loads would occasionally trip the helm instruments also. Very annoying. I added a DC-DC converter for the helm instruments and it solved the problem. A lot cheaper than repowering the winch.

A good approach as well. Doesn’t fix low volts at the windless, but if it’s working ok and not overheating, no biggie.

 

[SeaDogAK]

Before doing any of that, I’d pull and clean up your connections. I had a low voltage problem that overheated the windlass motor, and cleaning up the connections fixed it without running any new wire.

Although I’m puzzled as to why either bad connections or a wiring problem would cause your instruments to get low voltage - aren’t they drawing off an entirely separate set of wires? Seems like the problem might be your batteries, if it used to work OK but now you’re not getting enough output to keep up with the draw.

 

[Portage_Bay]

I had the same problem but other loads would occasionally trip the helm instruments also. Very annoying. I added a DC-DC converter for the helm instruments and it solved the problem. A lot cheaper than repowering the winch.

That is another thing I've thought of doing. If the anchor windlass is well fed then the solution could be a DC-DC supply. If, and that's a BIG IF I can make sense of the spaghetti under the dash in this old boat.

 

[Portage_Bay]

Before doing any of that, I’d pull and clean up your connections. I had a low voltage problem that overheated the windlass motor, and cleaning up the connections fixed it without running any new wire.

Although I’m puzzled as to why either bad connections or a wiring problem would cause your instruments to get low voltage - aren’t they drawing off an entirely separate set of wires? Seems like the problem might be your batteries, if it used to work OK but now you’re not getting enough output to keep up with the draw.

Cleaning the connections is on the to-do list. It just might fix the problem. The batteries could be at fault. 6 yr old Interstate golf car batteries. The will be replaced this winter.

 

[SeaDogAK]

I’ve figured out that I can keep the house bank voltage from dropping while hauling anchor by just revving the engines a bit — out of gear — while running the windlass. I just crank the throttles up to 1,200 or so to deliver more charging power, and I keep a nice healthy voltage.

 

[Portage_Bay]

I’ve figured out that I can keep the house bank voltage from dropping while hauling anchor by just revving the engines a bit — out of gear — while running the windlass. I just crank the throttles up to 1,200 or so to deliver more charging power, and I keep a nice healthy voltage.

I so something similar. I start the gen and get the 100 Amp charger online. I don't like to rev the cold mains up that high.

 

[Portage_Bay]

Thanks all for the input. It's always good to have these conversations. I can get focused on something that may not be necessary. The batteries need to be replaced. I'll clean connections and reterminate if I can find enough slack. Then I'll think about other solutions if need be.

 

[tom campbell]

I have a similar problem with ms390. When thrusters or engine starts, it resets the electronics on fly bridge, presumably due to voltage drop. I'm considering putting a small battery with diode on the fly bridge. Just big enough to power the electronics for few seconds of voltage drop. Thoughts?

 

[rslifkin]

I have a similar problem with ms390. When thrusters or engine starts, it resets the electronics on fly bridge, presumably due to voltage drop. I'm considering putting a small battery with diode on the fly bridge. Just big enough to power the electronics for few seconds of voltage drop. Thoughts?

That would work, but personally, I'd rather separate the electronics and other house loads from the engine starting and thruster batteries completely.

 

[ranger58sb]

I have a similar problem with ms390. When thrusters or engine starts, it resets the electronics on fly bridge, presumably due to voltage drop. I'm considering putting a small battery with diode on the fly bridge. Just big enough to power the electronics for few seconds of voltage drop. Thoughts?

If twin engine... you may have a Parallel (or "Emergency") switch at the helm... possibly momentary... which may combine both of your main battery banks... and that may be enough to keep the electronics alive. If you have it, and it's momentary.... maybe a PITA to mess with that plus thruster control at the same time, though.

-Chris

 

[SteveK]

Starters, windlass, davit off the start battery,
All other house loads off the house bank.
Electronics are not affected with engine start etc.

 

[ranger58sb]

Starters, windlass, davit off the start battery,
All other house loads off the house bank.
Electronics are not affected with engine start etc.

That would work, but personally, I'd rather separate the electronics and other house loads from the engine starting and thruster batteries completely.

Last I heard, typical Mainship battery architecture for twin engine models is two combined start/house banks, one for each engine and approx. half the house. (Boatloads of other brands to do the same, I guess...) Generally works OK, but one symptom is that voltage drop thing when starting one of the engines. Hence the parallel switch, I guess, although that probably was more focused on actually being able to start engines... versus keeping the electronics alive.

It's possible to spend money and/or time and split that architecture... but the outcome is sometimes maybe only marginally "better."

-Chris

 

[Comodave]

Starters, windlass, davit off the start battery,
All other house loads off the house bank.
Electronics are not affected with engine start etc.

Yup. Also the thruster.

 

[SteveK]

Yup. Also the thruster.

Forgot that since I do not have one. but yes. Two banks not usually joined.