Amperage push or pull?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

BDofMSP

Guru
Joined
Sep 5, 2013
Messages
965
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Gopher Broke
Vessel Make
Silverton 410 Sport Bridge
My boat does not have an inverter, nor a separate house bank. The port start bank also runs half the house, and the starboard runs the other half. We have an icemaker on the flybridge that runs only on 120v, and as such the ice melts by the next morning every time we leave the dock. Not the end of the world, but not ideal.

In a couple years we're moving to new system with a separate house bank, inverter chargers, etc. But for now I've chosen to install an EcoFlow portable power station up there to power the icemaker. It will be plugged into the 120 for charging and that AC will flow directly through to the icemaker while on shore or gen. When we disconnect from shore, it will invert 120 to keep our ice frosty.

Of course, it also recharges off of 12 volt. I have a 12 volt fused distribution panel right next to it, but my current house usage at anchor is enough that I don't want to add that load to it as well. I would never want to not be able to start the engines just because I wanted ice, right? Instead I've been thinking I should run a separate charging circuit for it, and separate it with an ACR (automatic charging relay). Then it will recharge while I'm underway to my next anchorage rather than relying solely on the gen for that.

Which leads to my question. The EcoFlow max charging capacity is 15 amps at 12v. The ACR lists cabling requirements of 10 AWG (with 40-50 amp fuse) for <30 amps, which is perfect because I have a length of 10/2 duplex cable on hand. Is that draw what the ACR rating is referring to? Or is it the input current that the start bank is receiving when it's being charged by my alternator? Because that's much higher (160 amp rated alternator but I doubt I ever see that output). I'm hoping that since the EcoFlow won't "pull" more than 15 amps, I'm fine with the 10 AWG.

Thanks,
BD
 
Wire size is determined by the load, length and allowable voltage drop. See the attached chart from Blue Sea. Fuse size is determined by wire size, the fuse is to protect the wiring not the device.

One thing to consider is that your EcoFlow will pull 15 AMPs from your charging circuit when charging by alternator. Subtract your running loads and the EcoFlow charging load to see what you have left for charging the batteries. Don't count on your alternator putting out the full rated 160 AMPs
 

Attachments

  • DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
    DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
    140.8 KB · Views: 9
Wire size is determined by the load, length and allowable voltage drop. See the attached chart from Blue Sea. Fuse size is determined by wire size, the fuse is to protect the wiring not the device.

One thing to consider is that your EcoFlow will pull 15 AMPs from your charging circuit when charging by alternator. Subtract your running loads and the EcoFlow charging load to see what you have left for charging the batteries. Don't count on your alternator putting out the full rated 160 AMPs

Yes, this answers your question. I don’t understand why you would tolerate a system that can so easily leave you with dead batteries and no ability to start your engines.
 
Agree. Using the start batteries for house loads is just asking for dead batteries when you want to start the engines. Bad design and a worse idea.
 
Thanks for the replies. This boat has shared start and house for 25 years, done the great loop twice, spent several winters in the Bahamas, and now cruises the Great Lakes. A shared start and house has never let it down. Countless recreational boats operate this way successfully. I have monitors in place and i use them religiously. I also have a generator with a separate battery in case somehow I miss something. This additional load adds more than I'm comfortable with, which is exactly why I'm asking this question - I want to assure the worst doesn't happen.

I mentioned that I'm planning to add a separate house bank in the future, but that's a lot of boat bucks, especially since my current bank is almost new. I want an interim solution.

Portage_Bay, I've looked at that chart and I am prepared to follow its guidance, but it doesn't answer my basic question. Am i basing the size on the 15 amps being pulled? Or the maybe 100 amps being supplied? At 15 amps the 10 AWG is fine based on the round trip distance on this circuit.

Thanks
BD
 
Agree. Using the start batteries for house loads is just asking for dead batteries when you want to start the engines. Bad design and a worse idea.

Quite common in U.S.-built mid-range $$$ powerboats, though. We've had four different brands now, none had a dedicated house bank.

-Chris
 
I added a lifepo4 battery Dc2dc charger and an inverter to power our fridge. Our boat shares the same batteries for house and start but I didn't want run an inverter and fridge off the combined start/house bank.
The nice thing with the portable power station/solar generator is it is quick and easy and you can take it off the boat for other things.
Now that we have our basic lithium setup it is easily expanded and we can add solar charging also. I have considered adding a portable power unit just for its versatility and for emergency backup if needed.
Have you considered get the solar panels with your eco flow for another charging alternative.
 
My Mainship was setup the same way with the two start batteries also sharing house in cockpit and in cabin. Previous owner also installed solar on one. I switch both house areas to the starter with the solar. Each battery is an 8d and now the house covers everything and stays up with solar.
I also have an ice maker and didn't have an inverter so I installed a dedicated inverter for the ice maker. Of course have a gen set to charge it all if necessary.
 
I added a lifepo4 battery Dc2dc charger and an inverter to power our fridge. Our boat shares the same batteries for house and start but I didn't want run an inverter and fridge off the combined start/house bank.
The nice thing with the portable power station/solar generator is it is quick and easy and you can take it off the boat for other things.
Now that we have our basic lithium setup it is easily expanded and we can add solar charging also. I have considered adding a portable power unit just for its versatility and for emergency backup if needed.
Have you considered get the solar panels with your eco flow for another charging alternative.
I considered them but haven't purchased because I wasn't sure where to place them. But coincidentally I just had dinner with a marina friend last night and he shared his experience. I'm now thinking about adding them again.
 
I guess I look at it a bit different.

The OP has stated that his 2 start batteries share the house loads. These start batteries are likely not protected from over discharge by an ACR, as if they were, there would be no reason to ask the question. Instead the OP likely has a reasonable monitoring system and/or a good feel as too how far the batteries can be discharged and still start the engines. This system is not ideal or preferred, but is common.
Installing a Blue Seas ML-ACR would certainly fix this issue, but that is not what was proposed.

Now the OP wants to impose an additional load, recharging the EcoFlow thing, using the batteries while the boat is underway with the 160 Amp. alternators working and is looking for an idea to protect the batteries from over discharge once the boat is at rest. Sounds forward thinking and reasonable.

The OP is considering what I think may be a small capacity ACR to put on just the new 12 V circuit that is proposed to charge the EcoFlow. I say small as the OP stated the ACR's requirements say 10 Ga. wire, which would limit capacity of the switch inside the ACR to about 30 Amps. An ACR of this capacity could not survive if wired into the batteries circuit which is the normal location for a larger capacity ML-ACR.

If you are intending the new 12 V circuit to just power the recharging of the Ecoflow, then I don't see why the following not work.

At the existing Distribution Panel, from a 25 Amp circuit breaker, run your 10 Ga wires to the properly mounted ACR. A 25 Amp fuse also works, but CB's are more versatile.
From there, mount an appropriate receptacle in a convenient location and wire it from the output of the ACR to the receptacle. Keep the wires as short as practical.

Check polarity, and you're done.

You would first want to confirm at what voltages the ACR combines the circuit (to charge the Ecoflow) and un-combines the circuit which isolates the Ecoflow. Perhaps these voltages are adjustable?

One other issue is if the circuit from the batteries to the existing Distribution Panel has long wires that are smaller in size and a significant load you may have a large voltage drop that will effect the cycling of the ACR. The Ecoflow while being charged will add an addition 15 Amps to this load.
I would recommend a voltage drop calculation be done to determine at what actual battery voltage the ACR combines.

Having never looked for or seen a small capacity ACR and in order to answer your original question, can you provide the info on this small ACR?
 
Last edited:
Thank you for your comprehensive reply. I am considering the Blue Sea "Mini" M-ACR 7601. Per their site "The Mini Automatic Charging Relay (M-ACR) is designed to manage the charging current from alternators up to 65 Amps found on most outboards and many inboard engines."

This was really the heart of my question. Am I sizing the wire between one side of the ACR for the draw of the EcoFlow (15 amps) or the "push" of the alternator? This powerbank is acting as a house battery in this situation, but it's limiting itself to accepting only 15 amps (I checked with EcoFlow on this already). As such, I was hopeful that the circuit could be sized for 15 amps, and I'm hearing that it can. This makes sense to me when I think further because amperage doesn't "push" itself anywhere, or else all the wiring leaving the battery would need to be sized for the alternator output.

O wasn't going to run to the distribution panel, just to the battery directly since it's a much shorter run. I would place an inline fuse between the battery and the ACR, and another between the ACR and the EcoFlow (per the installation instructions). Please let me know if you see a problem with this approach vs the distribution panel.

Thanks much,
BD
 
Which leads to my question. The EcoFlow max charging capacity is 15 amps at 12v. The ACR lists cabling requirements of 10 AWG (with 40-50 amp fuse) for <30 amps, which is perfect because I have a length of 10/2 duplex cable on hand. Is that draw what the ACR rating is referring to? Or is it the input current that the start bank is receiving when it's being charged by my alternator? Because that's much higher (160 amp rated alternator but I doubt I ever see that output). I'm hoping that since the EcoFlow won't "pull" more than 15 amps, I'm fine with the 10 AWG.


What battery are you attaching the ACR to? The auto charge relays needs a battery on both sides. The charge relay will not close if it does not have a battery to connect to. The Ecoflow needs to connect to a DC source 12V battery not an ACR. I'm not sure that your idea will work unless you add another battery to power the DC distribution panel. Or put a battery switch at the DC distribution panel. On/OFF switch when you are running the engine turn the battery switch on and the distribution panel has 12V to charge the ECOflow. Engine off battery switch off. The ACR is used to isolate batteries not charging devises or electrical devises.

Brian
 
What battery are you attaching the ACR to? The auto charge relays needs a battery on both sides. The charge relay will not close if it does not have a battery to connect to. The Ecoflow needs to connect to a DC source 12V battery not an ACR. I'm not sure that your idea will work unless you add another battery to power the DC distribution panel. Or put a battery switch at the DC distribution panel. On/OFF switch when you are running the engine turn the battery switch on and the distribution panel has 12V to charge the ECOflow. Engine off battery switch off. The ACR is used to isolate batteries not charging devises or electrical devises.

Brian
The configuration is a) starboard bank to b) fuse to c) ACR to d) fuse to e) EcoFlow. The starboard bank is charged by the starboard alternator as well as the 3 bank charger when on shore or gen power.

My understanding is that current will only flow to the EcoFlow when the starboard bank is being charged (by the alternator in this case). Hence it can't draw down that bank unless it's being charged.
 
The configuration is a) starboard bank to b) fuse to c) ACR to d) fuse to e) EcoFlow. The starboard bank is charged by the starboard alternator as well as the 3 bank charger when on shore or gen power.

My understanding is that current will only flow to the EcoFlow when the starboard bank is being charged (by the alternator in this case). Hence it can't draw down that bank unless it's being charged.
What ACR are you using? Automatic charge relays are battery isolators. They isolate 1 battery bank from 2 battery bank. There must be battery on both sides of the ACR to work. Is the EcoFlow a lithium battery? Is there a B+ terminal and a B- terminal connection on the EcoFlow ? Are you connecting (fuse E directly to B+ terminal and the EcoFlow battery B- directly to a negative terminal strip. Using the battery in the Ecoflow as a battery ? If this is the wiring configuration you are connecting a lead acid battery to a lithium battery? What is the voltage of the battery used in the EcoFlow power station?

To use the ACR it must be connected directly to the battery in the Ecoflow. There are voltage differences between a 12v lithium battery and a 12V lead acid battery. I thought that EcoFlow used higher voltage batteries 24V and 48V and had DC to DC chargers built in to charge from a 12Volt DC system. You have not stated the model EcoFlow. EcoFlow also makes a 12Volt alternator charger. Basically a DC to DC charger designed to quick charge the battery in the power station from the battery that is charged from the alternator. I'm asking theses questions because I'm not sure what you are doing. You know what you have and described a standard battery to ACR to standard battery. I'm not sue that is what you have.
Brian
 
Quite common in U.S.-built mid-range $$$ powerboats, though. We've had four different brands now, none had a dedicated house bank.

-Chris
Island Gypsy did the same, as does Integrity. Works surprisingly well, and I set the battery switch to "All" when anchored out, figuring 2 part drawn batteries is better than one full and one drained. Genset, with a separate battery is the savior, but only needed once, when the IG was very new to me and I was discovering the state of the batteries.
 
What ACR are you using? Automatic charge relays are battery isolators. They isolate 1 battery bank from 2 battery bank. There must be battery on both sides of the ACR to work. Is the EcoFlow a lithium battery? Is there a B+ terminal and a B- terminal connection on the EcoFlow ? Are you connecting (fuse E directly to B+ terminal and the EcoFlow battery B- directly to a negative terminal strip. Using the battery in the Ecoflow as a battery ? If this is the wiring configuration you are connecting a lead acid battery to a lithium battery? What is the voltage of the battery used in the EcoFlow power station?

To use the ACR it must be connected directly to the battery in the Ecoflow. There are voltage differences between a 12v lithium battery and a 12V lead acid battery. I thought that EcoFlow used higher voltage batteries 24V and 48V and had DC to DC chargers built in to charge from a 12Volt DC system. You have not stated the model EcoFlow. EcoFlow also makes a 12Volt alternator charger. Basically a DC to DC charger designed to quick charge the battery in the power station from the battery that is charged from the alternator. I'm asking theses questions because I'm not sure what you are doing. You know what you have and described a standard battery to ACR to standard battery. I'm not sue that is what you have.
Brian
This is the EcoFlow Delta 2. It has a LiFePO4 battery. The voltage of the battery itself is not published. It accepts 12 volt input from a cigarette lighter cable via its XT60H input, but that same input accepts any voltage from 11-60V, 15A, 500W max. This is the same input that you use for solar. At 12v over the lighter socket you're limited to 8 amps, the limitation being the lighter adapter fuse, not the XT60 input. So it seems like it would not care if the lead acid voltage was more or less than LiFePO4 typically desires, because it manages it.

So no it's not a "standard battery". EcoFlow said I could charge off the alternator this way, but they did not have any input on using an ACR in the circuit.

BD
 
The Blue Seas ACR does seem to need a battery on both sides of the relay in order to automatically operate as their Manual only states battery connections and is silent with respect to load connections.
Although I have never tested the Blue Seas ACR with a battery and a load, I suspect it won't work.

If so and you want to use one of Blue Seas products you would have to add a battery, the same chemistry as your start batteries would be best.
That might not be a bad thing as this new battery will prolong the operation of the ice maker.
Cold drinks for more friends is a good thing on my boat.

Not all ACR's, which are really a voltage sensing relay (VSR) actually need to be connected to 2 batteries.
Here is one VSR that has programmable voltage set points and time delays, that will if you wish can combine/isolate 2 batteries, or it can also be connected to one battery and a load, like the Ecoflow's built in charger.


There could very well be others.
 
You can not charge the battery in the Delta 2 by connecting it directly to a ACR. The cigarette lighter input cable that you are using XT60H input cable is 12V connected to DC to DC charger built into the Delta 2. EcoFlow makes a charger that connects to your cranking battery and then plugs into the Deta 2. Using the 12V EcoFlow charger will charge the battery much faster than the cigarette lighter charger. It will keep the battery at full charge or close to full charge the same way it does when you are on shore power and have the EcoFlow plugged into a 120V outlet. I don't have a power station but I have looked at them. They make a good portable 120V resource. I have a 3000w inverter, 600 ah lead acid flooded batteries and 600 W solar viltron 100V/50 solar controller. There are times when having a 2000w power station would come in handy on board
Brian.
 
Portage_Bay, I've looked at that chart and I am prepared to follow its guidance, but it doesn't answer my basic question. Am i basing the size on the 15 amps being pulled? Or the maybe 100 amps being supplied? At 15 amps the 10 AWG is fine based on the round trip distance on this circuit.

Thanks
BD
BD, I was not ignoring your request. After my initial response I spent the day on my boat chasing wire runs. I see you've gotten your questions answered and will leave you to the good advice you've received.
 
BD, I was not ignoring your request. After my initial response I spent the day on my boat chasing wire runs. I see you've gotten your questions answered and will leave you to the good advice you've received.
No worries, but thanks for the reply. Indeed I've been given a lot to think about here. I'm grateful for all the help I've been given.
 
The Blue Seas ACR does seem to need a battery on both sides of the relay in order to automatically operate as their Manual only states battery connections and is silent with respect to load connections.
Although I have never tested the Blue Seas ACR with a battery and a load, I suspect it won't work.

If so and you want to use one of Blue Seas products you would have to add a battery, the same chemistry as your start batteries would be best.
That might not be a bad thing as this new battery will prolong the operation of the ice maker.
Cold drinks for more friends is a good thing on my boat.

Not all ACR's, which are really a voltage sensing relay (VSR) actually need to be connected to 2 batteries.
Here is one VSR that has programmable voltage set points and time delays, that will if you wish can combine/isolate 2 batteries, or it can also be connected to one battery and a load, like the Ecoflow's built in charger.


There could very well be others.
This looks very promising. Unfortunately I can only find it in Australia, but I'm planning to contact them. I have started a search for some other options, but most hits appear to be battery to battery solutions. Or have so little detail that it's not clear to me. I'll keep looking, but if anyone has a recommendation I'd love to hear it.

Thanks for all the input on this question. Much appreciated.
BD
 
The description of this device indicates that it can protect the battery bank by shutting of loads when battery voltage drops. Can I assume it could do the opposite (turn on the load when the battery voltage increases over a level)? I posted the question to the vendor site, but I'm asking here too.

The description seems to imply it would work:
The alarm output is activated if the battery voltage drops below the preset disconnect level for more than 12 seconds. Starting the engine will therefore not activate the alarm. The alarm output is a short circuit proof open collector output to the negative (minus) rail, max. current 50 mA. The alarm output is typically used to activate a buzzer, LED or relay. The load will be disconnected 90 seconds after the alarm has been activated. If the battery voltage increases again to the connect threshold within this time period (after the engine has been started for example), the load will not be disconnected. The load will be reconnected 30 seconds after the battery voltage has increased to more than the preset reconnect voltage.

If so, for $60 bucks I'm on my way!
 
Of course, it also recharges off of 12 volt. I have a 12 volt fused distribution panel right next to it, but my current house usage at anchor is enough that I don't want to add that load to it as well. I would never want to not be able to start the engines just because I wanted ice, right? Instead I've been thinking I should run a separate charging circuit for it, and separate it with an ACR (automatic charging relay). Then it will recharge while I'm underway to my next anchorage rather than relying solely on the gen for that.
The description of this device indicates that it can protect the battery bank by shutting of loads when battery voltage drops. Can I assume it could do the opposite (turn on the load when the battery voltage increases over a level)? I posted the question to the vendor site, but I'm asking here too
I believe this will work if it is wired between your battery and the 12 volt fused distribution panel. You can program the Victron Battery protect to disconnect at a specified voltage and to connect at a specified voltage. Example: disconnect @ 12.4V (75%) discharge and connect @ 13V With charge voltage.

You will be able to use the cigarette liter, EcoFlow 8 amp car charger to charge the power station. Plugged into your fused distribution panel. If you are running your ice maker 120V @ 3amps = 12V @33 amps and charging the EcoFlow battery @ 8 amps 12V you are @ -25 amps. If the ice maker only runs 8 hours in 24 hours the EcoFlow battery will never have a full charge using the 12 Volt 8 amp charger. It will not have enough stored battery power to run all night. 60.00 bucks

My suggestion would be to install the EcoFlow alternator charger. This is wired to your battery. It is a DC to DC charger designed to plug into your Delta 2. It charges at a rate of approx. 65 amps. You cruise with engines running the EcoFlow stays full charged all day with the ice maker making Ice. When you drop the hook un-plug the charger. You can make ice 4 hours continuous running the ice maker. I doubt it runs continuously, it will keep ice all night and never have to worry about your starboard engine battery. 399.00 bucks

How much is ice worth? There is nothing better than the clank of ice in a drink at the end of a day. We have an ice maker and run it off our inverter. We bag the ice and put it in our freezer and shut the ice maker off when the the engines are off or the sun goes down when on the hook.

Good luck with your project.
Brian
 
I looked at the alternator charger when I bought the powerbank. It is not an acceptable solution for this problem, mostly becasue of the limited length of the cables. The output cable cannot be extended because of the proprietary connectors, and the input cable cannot be extended on the wire end because of the size of the cable - it is not large enough gauge to accomodate the voltage drop of a larger run. EcoFlow has been very clear about this, as many people have complained that this cable length isn't even long enough for their Sprinter van setups, not to mention a 40+ foot boat. Also, since $399 is what I paid for the whole powerbank (Black Friday special), I'd likely just buy another and keep it charging on the side.

I will be putting the Victron between the battery and the powerbank itself, not through a distribution panel, because that would shut down the whole panel, not just the powerbank. Also I will not be using the cigarette adapter limited to 8 amps, I'll be wiring the battery => Victron => wire (with fuses of course) directly to the XT60 input which will give me 15 amps, not 8. This approach was approved by EcoFlow assuming the proper gauge wire is used for the run length. Yes, it's still not the full 25 amps that would be a full replacement, but I also run the generator twice daily for meals and heating water. It should be fine, and if not, it's just ice. If I see that the end is near, I can put a bag of it in the house freezer as a backup.

Side notes. The Intervolt company replied and says they have no plans to distribute their product in the US. Also, Amazon has the Victron units at $37, so even less!

Thanks
BD
 
Interestingly, I just got the following answer from PKYS regarding the Victron unit:
"The BatteryProtect can not be used to supply power to another battery. It is a one way device. If the second battery was at a higher voltage than the first the current would flow in the opposite direction and destroy the BatteryProtect.
We do have devices designed specifically to do what you want. The Blue Sea 7610 SI Series Solenoid120 Amp 12/24V ACR is an automatic charge relay which combines the two banks when either is above 13 volts and separates them when they arent. It is rated for 120 amps. It is one of a wide range of ACR's that we stock at PKYS."


So now it's not clear. Is an ACR not going to work? Or is an ACR the only thing that will work? I suspect that the Victron Battery Protect will actually work, because it's not connecting to the battery itself. It is (as was suggested above) connecting to a DC to DC converter, which would prevent the back flow that PKYS is pointing out. I'll try to contact EcoFlow and confirm that.
 
The ACR will not work. You need to connect the ACR to a battery. A 12Volt battery. I'm don't know the voltage of the battery installed in the Delta 2 but my guess is it is 48V.

The Victron smart battery protect "should work" to disconnect your starboard battery bank when battery is discharged and voltage has decreased to the set point you choose. The load side of the smart battery connect should not be wired directly to the solar charge input plug. The solar charge input plug I would assume should have a much higher voltage than 12.7 volts to get any type of charge capacity. I assume the EcoFlow, based on the specs you posted "11-60V, 15A, 500W max" has a solar controller built into it so you can attach a solar panel. This is probably a 60V/15amp controller charger. In order to get a full 15 amp charge you will need to step the battery voltage up. I'm not sure how much voltage increase is needed but my guess would be 25volts maybe even more. This "may be can be done" by using a DC to DC converter. You would need a fused wire harness from your battery to the Victron smart battery protect and a fused wire harness to a DC to DC converter sized to step the battery voltage up to 25V to 30V and a fused wire harness with a ECOFlow solar charging cable. This may work but I would get more information. So with all this you may have gained as much as an extra 7 amp charging capacity. Still not enough to run an ice maker continuously and keep the EcoFlow battery charged.

This is an opinion based forum. A post is created, a question is asked. We all have opinions. We all try to give constructive opinions. When it comes to electrical, DC or AC systems in a boat. Extreme caution needs to be taken when doing electrical installs. Good luck with what ever you do. I hope it works out for you.

My advise or opinion. Use what ever options the EcoFlow manufacture sells to charge the Delta 2. If the 8amp charger is not enough then run your generator for an hour and fully charge it with the AC power charger. Or increase your battery capacity on the boat, install an inverter large enough to run the ice maker and some other 120V accessories and use the EcoFlow for a power backup.


Be safe
Brian
 
Thanks. I'm definitely not trying to do anything unsafe. And making ice is not critical. You are correct that if I need more charge, I can always run the gen, and I'll do that. My sole intention here was to make charging as automatic and quick as possible. EcoFlow themselves told me that I did not need to use the lighter adapter, and that I could connect the XT60 input directly to the 12v system assuming the wiring was adequate for the amperage. I'm taking them at their word, and I've asked directly about the battery saver too. If they reply negatively then I'll scrap that option.

I fully intend to do all the things to add a separate house bank, a well sized inverter system, and all the other changes required to more robustly support producing 120v without the generator, but that's 2-3 years off. In the meantime I was able to get this interim solution in place affordably. We rarely stay at one anchorage for many days - we cruise. So taking as much advantage of that alternator charging power as I can makes sense, but I will definitely supplement with the generator as much as needed, even if it means running it while we're underway.

I appreciate all of the advice and opinions that I have gotten here, on this thread and on so many others. Thank you.
BD
 
FYI EcoFlow replied:
"We would like to clarify that the XT60 DC input port on our DELTA 2 is designed to be unidirectional, meaning it is exclusively for charging purposes and does not support discharging."

I think that takes care of the concern that PYKS raised about the victron solution. I'll be going that route. Unfortunately we're still 3-4 months away from me being able to find out if it will work. Stupid winter...

BD
 
Back
Top Bottom