1982 OA 42’ Trawler rudder seals leaking

[Msamsen]

Hello and Happy Thanksgiving to all!
We are enjoying a beautiful long holiday weekend out on the puget sound and getting a pretty good seep from the starboard rudder seal. Will taking it to dry dock asap but wondered if anyone’s got a good lead on the parts and procedures for repacking these. Any advice is much appreciated!

 

[RobertLeatch]

There was a recent thread here that should be helpful.

Tool for removing rudder post

i’m looking for some assistance on tools or techniques for removing a couple of bronze rudder ports on our vessel. other than just a vague sense that after 40+ years they should be serviced and rather significant oxidation id like to clean; they functioned on our 750 NM trip home fine. i’ve...

www.trawlerforum.com

 

[Comodave]

You may be able to tighten up the shaft log a bit and see if that helps. There are 2 bolts on the log it looks like. Give each one a turn with a wrench, a little at a time. But you may have to replace packing.

 

[tiltrider1]

the double nutted stud is the adjuster. Your picture shows me the front stud and there is another one behind the shaft. Back off all 4 nuts completely. Pry it up gently. Measure the gap between the shaft and the housing. This will tell you which size packing to buy.

Take the packing, wind it around the shaft 3 times and cut it vertically. Throw away the short pieces and stuff the remaining pieces into the gap. Reassemble the housing. Tighten up the nuts equally and you are done.

You do not need to pull the boat out of the water. You do not need to remove the old packing.

 

[Msamsen]

This is great info everyone! Thanks for the guidance. I tightened them both down and the seeping stopped. Will measure and get some packing cord next.

 

[Sleeping Bear]

Have to be careful to not tighten the gland too much, you can literally tear the whole thing out when you turn the wheel. (ask me how I know this).

 

[stevemitchell]

I had a 1988 OA 420 that had super leaky rudder seals. In 2020, I had her hauled, and we had to drop each of the rudders because the packing inside had turned into some weird consistency, and the brackets above the posts were very restrictive in getting down inside to clean it out.

They do require a decent amount of adjustment after replacing the packing, or even over time as the packing tightens up or changes due to temp. It's not super easy to get down in there to do it, but necessary.

 

[Davil1]

this post is a good example of a neglected system that becomes a problem at the worst possible moment.
It is so easy to check while hauling out for routine maintenance like painting the bottom.

A couple of years ago running from a gale my sailboat was hammered by huge following seas, constantly crushing onto my stern and rudder, the pressure of the waves overwhelmed the rudder post gland packing.

I am quite sure was not checked for years, not by me on the 6 years of ownership.

A cascade of complications ended up on a fire!

The increased water flow overtaxed the bilge pump, overheating of the pump caused a shorting, now we had a fire in the bilge to deal with at the same time we are running for our lives.
Almost like the butterfly example.

And yes, every routine haulout now includes checking the rudder post gland!!!

And while at it, since is close, check the rudder quadrant and CABLES!!!

Good luck