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Frame weights maybe 150 to 200lbs. Panels and hardware, around 500lbs. And no concern adding it up high. It originally had a hardtop I removed, and the amount of weight below is substantial. It has a Keel that is steel that runs the lenght, about 6" wide, and goes from about 40" to 6". And...

The tubes are aluminum. 2" OD. The panels line up with aluminum unistrut so those are the water catches essentially. Where the panels will meet edge to edge and no unistrut below, there is silicone to seal the panels together. I still have my 33kw and my 5.5kw generator. The amount of solar...

My solar arch frame has been installed. Now need to install the 8x 540 bifacial panels onto it.

Thank you. Will start searching, it appears sex bolts is the accurate term.

I am trying to locate a supplier for these. They are an M6 thread and go to Osculati port windows. When I had my guys remove the windows for powder coating, they dropped multiple of these into the water of course. I think I am going to need around 50 of them. If they are cheap enough, which...

I am looking at either having a manifold built, or use stainless T's to build one. I have reinforced lines ran to the HVAC units already, so will just use a hose barb.

Basically, I have 6 HVAC, self-contained, units. 3x 24kBTU; 3x 18kBTU. I have two pumps, each putting out about 4700GPH maximum from my sea-chests into a manifold for distribution to the HVAC units. Each output Each manifold input, I want a ball valve on, as this is coming out of the...

Have you seen any PEX manifolds with 1" outputs? That would make life much easier.

I am working on ordering the parts to make my HVAC water distribution manifolds. They will be made out of stainless steel. a 1.5" ball valve into a 5 port manifold. 3 ports will have 1" stainless ball valves. One will be reduced down from 1" to 3/8" to allow a pressure gauge to be put into...

Here is what I did.for.the port side so far.

I avoid west marine, way too overpriced. I pick up hose, trident 241, for about $2/ft for 1.5" and $5/ft for 2". PVC I used due to the how to run it for the 2" lines. The reason I learned people typically do not use it.......the time it takes to install it. Running my 1.5" hose took an hour...

I thought of the larger pipe, given calcs and given GPH of pump capacity. My pumps should only come on if there is a major issue occuring, as everything is dripless on my boat, and is designed to not have seawater splashing into it, anywhere. If there is a slight amount of water, the arid...

The force test on them, from how I have read the ABYC codes, is specifically for any below waterline applications.

The pumps being used for normal bilge is 3700GPH 24VDC@7.5A pumps. There are 5 of these. For high water bilge, they are 1hp, 6600GPH Ridgid sump pumps, powered by 120VAC @8.1A, there are 5 of these. Both of these are run off of a low voltage (24VDC) control system. Each pump runs off of...

I thought it was overkill on 2", but when I did the calcs, it does show 2" is what should be for my hight water bilge pumps. The PVC is not directly connected to the thru-hull, it is either through a hose, or a rubber coupling, depenind on on where in the ship it is. These lines are...

I am currently mocking this up as I prefer to work in he open to see how it fits together, rather than in a confined space. Learned that lesson the hard way. Check valves I agree, I have researched and definitely a no no. It appears, with USCG and ABYC, SCH40 is not prohibited above water...

What do you think about me using a Marelon 90 from the thru-hull and then connecting straight to Trident 241? Would the hard 90 be a concern at all?

LOL...I like the steampunk look. Just what an ER needs. :socool:

These are shown side by side for size comparison

These photos show no loops, but would put a clear check valve in line.

Ok, I have two designs now, one with a loop, one without. The one without would have check valves. Thoughts? These photos show the loop. Pipes are 2"ID and 1.5"ID

Just in case. easy to add now, with minimal cost. Though life is much easier with out adding them in.

That is not too bad of an idea at all. Though I can take the bow and the midship and just move them to the engine room bilges. The limber holes do not necessarily work for mine, as I have nearly a 3000 gal fuel tank built into the bilge midship.

It is due to how my boat is divided up. Essentially I have 5 sections. Each section has a normal bilge pump (3700GPH) and one high water (6600GPH) Due to the height of the water line in rooms, 4 sections need to go into the engine room (2 sections are in the engine room) in order to have...

The U part of pvc, would be the top, where you would normally take the hose to have the high loop.