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I am moving from a lifetime of sail to my GB36 Classic. I had concerns about seaworthiness. Others with trawler experience are telling something that you mentioned, that I would give up before the boat did. That was comforting to hear.

Beautiful bit of work. Congratulations and good luck.

In the days when the change to low sulfur diesel was made (early 80's?) a chronic problem arose with rubber seals, "O" rings, etc shrinking and causing fuel leaks everywhere.

Just curious as to why you are changing engines. I have (2) FL 108's (1973 GB 36C) and they are great. I've heard all good things about them. Thanks.

If you had a drain line at the drain plug you could run that to a pump and then on to an oil galley. Then swap the out line on the pump to a drain bucket.when changing the oil

Sure Marine Service in Seattle were very helpful with parts and info. 206-784-9903

Not having the thermocouples does not meet ABYC standard and may be an issue at a survey and possibly effect insurance coverage. It may be worth investigating further.

There is n o direct water ingress, but I understand the concern over dampness. Possibly some moisture absorbent (desiccant) and likely some increased preventative measures and maintenance. Close monitoring at first would certainly be in order.

I am planning on locating my house batteries in the lazarette. It will require some longer power leads but the available space, weight distribution and ventilation seem like a better overall idea to me.

I suspect that the bills, if signed into law, would be just a tool for enforcement on those that are abusing anchoring rights. They likely don't have the resources or inclination to cite a boater that has stopped for a night or 2 on their passage.

This is a thought of mine also. On the east coast and having been a life long sailor, we would run from NE to Norfolk off shore (350 NM+/-) , then down the ICW. The ICW will be easier in the trawler, but the offshore part might be interesting. Obviously people do it, but we didn't have to be (or...

After a lifetime of sail I went to the dark side a few years back and paid the price in harassment from my sailing buddies. I think you get more creature comfort for the size boat than sail. You can get there in more or less a straight line. You don't have to wait for bridges on the ICW. I also...

There was trick I saw on an R/V website. If I remember it was Dawn, Borax and water mix just left in while they drove/cruised around. Good luck.

POWERPROBE sells a tracer unit for about $175 m/n PPECT 3000

The next time someone tells you how bad America is, point them towards this incident. As Churchill said "Democracy is the worst form of government except for all the others."

All legality and technicality aside it may be a good option to offer to supply the alternator and offer him the option to handle the install as they may prefer. He may want have it done himself which relieves you of the burden. I would just make clear who is paying for the labor before anything...

That was our temp in New England a few weeks ago. -8C here today. Stay warm.

I recently converted my cable system to hydraulic (2 station) and the old instructions (looked up online) were for a vented cap at the upper station but the newer instructions were for both caps UNvented.

Purging the system can be a real pain. I converted my cable steering to hydraulic and wound up buyer a purge pump kit. ($1200) but for me it was worth it. You may find someone locally that has one (marine mechanic) and get it done in under an hour.

Checking for voltage on an open circuit really doesn't tell you much. You could see source (battery) voltage with no load even though there is excessive resistance in the circuit somewhere. You need to check voltage (ideally) from the batt+ to the pump WHILE THE PUMP IS ACTIVATED. You may see...

If resistance in the cables or connection is suspected then a voltage drop test is in order. Connect one lead of the multi meter to the battery POST, not the cable or cable clamp positive side and the other lead to the starter POST, again not the cable of cable connector. When cranking you...

Maintaining the bonding system and preventing galvanic corrosion is also important for valve life.

It actually works like a globe valve (if that's any help) but this is not very relevant to it's use. The center portion (with the wing handle) is left hand threaded. Turning it CCW will open the valve to atmosphere. This is to vent air out of the cooling system. You can see the flat portion of...

When considering the capacity of the various components, don't forget that there is "righting moment" or leverage associated with the various points at which load is applied.

A loaded test is far more revealing than a no load test. Given the choice I don't know why a no load test would be preferred.