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I'm making a mooring. None of the diagrams show a swivel at the mooring -- usually its either at the junction between light & hvy chain or else up at the ball. I'm wondering why I wouldn't want a swivel at each end of the chain?

I watched that too, and I also have graphite packing, however i have had it for half a decade. Also was it hypothesized that it's only a problem when the shafts were spinning, or is it even a problem at rest? Because my shafts havent been spinning much, and certainly not when my anchor was deployed.

Thanks for all the responses, I didn't know this thread was still going. I got sidetracked with other things. And now this is back to #1 priority. Can someone explain this for me: when using the reference annode, if i connect to the engines or the staring battery I'm not seeing movement on the...

I actually misspoke. It was the hose barbs on both sides of the a/c strainer. So no they weren't in bilge water

The corrosion reference annode instructs to connect the other probe to the "vessels main dc ground". If I connect to the shunt for the house loads, i get some milivolt changes when flipping breakers. But if I connect to the start battery negative (which is also connected to the house bank...

The inverter chasis ground routes to a bus bar with about 15 green 120v wires in the electrical closet. It's impossible to visually trace if any of those wires route directly to bonding wires. I tried testing resistance from that bus bar to nearby thru hull that has bonding wires on it and got...

Basically i'm assuming im gonna have to devote the next few months of my life to finding a needle in a haystack -- something i miswired or a wire/connection that has gone bad. But if there are any semi-simple things I can try right now to maybe not find the exact source, but at least stop...

I have 1600w of solar. i have an old xantrex inverter that is on 24/7. 120v chest freezer. 12v fridge. This is why I was inquiring specifically about 120v because that is something I could work around. Especially because 120v confuses me, so it would be nice to just eliminate that possibikity...

It has an on board charger that i plug in to ext cord from trawler inverted 120v only occasionaly until skiff house is topped. But for example yesterday when i saw my trawler shaft zinc faintly fizzing, the skiff was not hooked up.

If i dangle a positive multimeter probe in trawler bilge water with negative clamped to 12v ground, i get about .25v dc. However when i turn off all battery switches the .25v reading does not change, so i'm not sure what to make of that. These are the type of further confusions i expected as I...

I was actually wo dering if there is a good way to check the bikge water for voltage? The reference annode says its important not to get oil on it. Can i just dangle a regular multimeter probe in the bilge water?

Skiff outboard to trawler anchor chain = 75ft

A couple more questions: 5. If i install on/off switches on my skiff house & start batteries, and turn off when not in use, will that protect my outboard? 6. I was already planning to install a triple danforth mooring. But i don't want to put new chain in the water til i know it won't get eaten...

I have a portable gas generator, that was getting maybe 6 hrs a week in the late summer. But now basically 0 hrs a week. I think the port zinc (but not starboard zinc) still rapidly deteriorating is an important detail.

Saltwater. When you say a/c, you are speaking of air con (not alternating current), correct? One thing I can say is i obviously still have the stray current (no growth on port zinc) yet my air con hasnt been run in months. The air con bonding i'm reffering to was just the bonding wire screwed...

I have discovered what seems to be a bad case of stray current corrosion. I'm hoping you guys can help me narrow down the haystack a bit. My fiberglass trawler with twin inboards is moored over 1/4 mile from shore or other boats. It has zinc annodes on the shafts. My fiberglass skiff dangles...

Can you explain specifically how you raised the anchors? Disconnect each leg? I'm assuming with the mothership, not by dinghy? How long were they down? And how long did it take? I am going to be installing a triple (or quadruple) 60lb danforth mooring. Before installing it, I am debating...

Is this type of swivel with a stainless cotter pin trustworthy for long term anchoring?

It is a pro mariner pro tournament 300 triple. It's on a timer because why would I have a charger running constantly for batteries that are rarely used and mostly are just being kept topped.

As stated, the charger was unplugged from AC when i got the spark putting in the fuse.

As i said, i didnt install the fuses. The batteries are at most 2 years old and basically never used. Thruster disconnected.

My bow thruster batteries are charged by an AC charger on a timer. The previous owner installed fuses on both the negative and positive wires for each leg. I caught my thruster batteries draining even when not used, which made me suspicious of this charger as the cause. I recharged then took...

Another question I have is what is the success rate of requesting which side of the lock you want? Specifically in the Okechobee Waterway because that is the one system I'll probably eventually have to transverse. I have a fiberglass skiff that I unfortunately have to tow singlehanded. I just...

44ft Marine Trader. What is the best size fenders for locks? Are lock walls ever corrugated so that a larger than normal fender is needed? Price is of no concern; I live on the hook around people with big fancy boats and poor seamanship, so big expensive fenders are always floating by...

I'm curious about the ratings on the Standard vs HT. For example, a 35HT has smaller flukes than a 70S. Yet the 35HT quotes a higher holding power. The only way that makes sense to me is if the Standard is expected to bend at 3000lbs as opposed to pull out the bottom. And, I'm assuming these...