Opinion - Teak or Fiberglass Dash on FB

Looking for peoples opinion, because frankly, I'm stuck.

We have a new (to us) 2008 Grand Banks EU 47 and we're putting new electronics in, so the dash on the flybridge where the monitors are now has to be rebuilt so they can re-cut. See the picture below. I was thinking of having the dash re-glassed, but realized having a piece of varnished teak that the MFD's would be mounted to instead could look sharp. Thoughts on what would look best? Any other opinions/advice?

The boat is boathouse kept, so the wear and tear on teak is there, but less of an issue. I've already spoken to the vendors, and the teak is actually cheaper.

I did my dash instrument console in glass a few years ago, but now I’m thinking to cover it in teak veneer to cut down on glare. No problem, mind you, but the teak is much easier on the eyes after a long day at the helm.

I hate plastic (FRP) ! But the teak will become dry and splintery in the sunlight.

The plastic can always be repaired if you mess-up or want to change things.
You may want to look at a large panel if black Formica to use as a dash insert.

If boat house kept, then Teak. Easier to replace and re-configure if needed down the road, plus it will look kinda snazzy.

When you say have it re-glassed, are they actually going to wet lay fiberglass over the holes?

What I would do is get a piece of G10 fiberglass, cut a huge hole in the console leaving only a flange at the edge, and then cut the G10 panel to overlay that. Can be redone at any time and multiple times for refreshes, gives access behind, etc. You could do the same thing with a teak panel but in my opinion teak belongs inside, protected from the weather always.

Just as another option (not sure which I'd choose myself), many smaller powerboats use custom cut acrylic panels. Matte or gloss. Oftentimes black (for the look) but could be another color.

These are cut to your exact layout and you can have the instruments flush or even back (no fasteners showing) mounted. I think New Wire Marine may do them (or be connected to whomever does).

Exact material aside, I'd go for some sort of overlaid panel (even if it is matching white gelcoat) vs filling to like new. Why? Because I think it's inevitable that electronics change, so why not set up a "system" to accommodate that (replaceable top panel).

Congrats on a lovely boat (and boathouse....drool!)

Frosty

G10 or acrylic panel.

No teak; can look nice, for a while... pain in the neck otherwise.

-Chris

The nice thing about an acrylic panel is that it can easily be removed and replaced in the far future. If it twir I, I'd built a mock up of the plastic panel with cutouts, take it to a plastic guy (they make lots of stuff for boats) and have him do it. The cost will be amazingly low for a boat thing.

If you are looking to cut down on glare you could use a piece of black starboard to cover the panel and cut out for the MFD. Starboard is very easy to work with. We also have used boat blanket material from Sailrite cut to fit the dash. We snap it down. It cuts glare out completely and also helps stop things from sliding around.

I don't have a link, but there are services that will CNC cut a panel for you with holes for your equipment in the exact size and place you need. And they offer various materials, including some flat black plastics.

Have it BOTH WAYS

DDW said:

When you say have it re-glassed, are they actually going to wet lay fiberglass over the holes?

What I would do is get a piece of G10 fiberglass, cut a huge hole in the console leaving only a flange at the edge, and then cut the G10 panel to overlay that. Can be redone at any time and multiple times for refreshes, gives access behind, etc. You could do the same thing with a teak panel but in my opinion teak belongs inside, protected from the weather always.

Click to expand...

I think this is a good idea, BUT you can lay a teak veneer over the G10 and prepare it as if it was an exterior teak railing before you cut the holes. I would apply a satin coating as the last coat to avoid glare.

Many just use white or black starboard - covers a multitude of sins!

I had custom burl wood panels made from an outfit in Florida. I'll get photos and details when I get on the boat tomorrow.

Greetings,
Mr./Ms. Ml. Welcome aboard!!!

Replacing electric goodies is very common , a removable panel would be a big help and using cannon plugs for the equipment power will make the next set of replacements even easier to install.

If the panel were hinged for EZ access it would make disconnecting the electronics easier when the thunder storms are in sight.

I just had mine done using black starboard. I love it.

I don’t think there is a wrong choice.

Acrylic would be at the bottom of my list however it has the greatest choice of colors.

Polycarbonate would be a better choice for durability.

ABS or HDPE(starboard) are fairly equal choices for looks and durability. I prefer ABS over HDPE because of a higher melting point and greater flexibility but we are talking very minor differences.

Teak done in varnish would be low on my list. However, teak done in Awlwood or one of the other 2 part finishes would be at the top of my list.

Glassing it in and starting over is high on my list if matching gel coat is easy.

Glass, teak(2 part finish), ABS, HDPE are good choices.

mliemon2 said:

Looking for peoples opinion, because frankly, I'm stuck.

We have a new (to us) 2008 Grand Banks EU 47 and we're putting new electronics in, so the dash on the flybridge where the monitors are now has to be rebuilt so they can re-cut. See the picture below. I was thinking of having the dash re-glassed, but realized having a piece of varnished teak that the MFD's would be mounted to instead could look sharp. Thoughts on what would look best? Any other opinions/advice?

The boat is boathouse kept, so the wear and tear on teak is there, but less of an issue. I've already spoken to the vendors, and the teak is actually cheaper.

Click to expand...

Are your helm chairs in good conditions? fabric to match them? or redo those chairs in a nice buttery leather, with the dashboard in the same? Then when you are having to redo the chairs in 20 years or so, do the helm as well.

no experience with this sort of thing, but I would wonder about some of these new weather resistant wood products, such as phenolic impregnated and thermal enhanced woods that are weather resistant. Might be interesting a=for a low maintenance accent wood piece.

I work in an architectural wood finishes business, and we only focus on interior applications, and exterior only where protected form direct weather exposure.... so I don't compete in that area but I do run across these items specified form time to time. It's used for applications such as building siding, exterior walls, etc.... Saw one just this week called compactwood.

what about treating some teak, or a hardwood of your choice, with CPES?
https://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html

Teak would look very nice if you are so inclined.
If you go that route then I would make, have made, a canvas cover to be installed when you are not running the boat. A medium colour, one of the greys would block the sun quite well.
I see you have a bimini top and side curtains so the panel would not be totally exposed.
You will have to be prepared to re varnish but maybe every two to three years instead of yearly if left totally in the open.
Just build up a good coat initially and then when it begins to dull apply three or four coats.

mliemon2 said:

Looking for peoples opinion, because frankly, I'm stuck.

We have a new (to us) 2008 Grand Banks EU 47 and we're putting new electronics in, so the dash on the flybridge where the monitors are now has to be rebuilt so they can re-cut. See the picture below. I was thinking of having the dash re-glassed, but realized having a piece of varnished teak that the MFD's would be mounted to instead could look sharp. Thoughts on what would look best? Any other opinions/advice?

The boat is boathouse kept, so the wear and tear on teak is there, but less of an issue. I've already spoken to the vendors, and the teak is actually cheaper.

Click to expand...

IMHO, no wood of any kind is suitable for boats. Use only fiberglass, stainless steel 316 (ot better), or silicone bronze.
Use wood only for indoors removable furniture such as tables, sofas, and chairs.
In general, no biodegradable material should be used for structural, planking, posting, hand rail, or covering applications in boating.

One can find many hulls in good condition that have been mothballed because a rotten wood stringer, samson post, or rotten wood core in decks or covers would be prohibitively expensive to repair.

I disagree.

Wood as a structural element is a big question, agreed.

This is no where even close to structural, strictly cosmetic.

rolomart3 said:

Use only fiberglass, stainless steel 316 (ot better), or silicone bronze.

Click to expand...

I'm a big fan of silicon bronze and would love it just about anywhere on a boat. But even I have a hard time imagining it as a panel to mount electronics in. 316 stainless doesn't seem ideal either.

agreed...a small wood accent panel, might require a bit of maintenance to keep looking top notch....but if you were to let it go...especially teak.... in an application like this would still last an extremely long time.

I have personal limit absolutes like this too....but I'm careful enough to realize that as with almost everything there can be exceptions that make a little sense..... such as my aversion to the use of silicone caulk.

C lectric said:

I disagree.

Wood as a structural element is a big question, agreed.

This is no where even close to structural, strictly cosmetic.

Click to expand...

Yor case may not be structural but the elements of nature won't give a damn. They will attack the wood, or the varnish, or the paint or whatever you use to try to cover it. So we are back to the key question of this thread: Teak or fiberglass? The answer is a no brainier.

It is easy to fall for what I call "the floating crystal china cabinet syndrome" which is the belief that a boat may have delicate designs using fancy styles, colors and weak materials. It is the wrong attitude for boat building. Today, with increasingly angry seas due to global warming, money spent in anything but making the boat as robust and fuel efficient as possible looks to me as foolish extravaganza with very little of its value preserved in the future.

For paneling, investigate marine coosa board.

rolomart3 said:

It is easy to fall for what I call "the floating crystal china cabinet syndrome" which is the belief that a boat may have delicate designs using fancy styles, colors and weak materials.... money spent in anything but making the boat as robust and fuel efficient as possible looks to me as foolish extravaganza with very little of its value preserved in the future. .

Click to expand...

Do you realize the thread is about an instrument panel cosmetic overlay? Coosa board? Robust and fuel efficient? This is a thin overlay on a panel

Okay Frosty,



maybe I got carried away a bit.



But there are panels and panels you know! And one would hate that panel that has to be replaced because it roted and leaked causing more damage.

A custom dash cut to your specifications would work nicely. Try here:

https://www.aplusmobilegraphics.com/shop/

James

Best of all worlds

MacPhid said:

A custom dash cut to your specifications would work nicely. Try here:

https://www.aplusmobilegraphics.com/shop/

James

Click to expand...

James, I checked the website. They are reorganizing it but I saw there some impressive sample work. If they can work on a non-biodegradable and uv-resistant sheet/plank material you have a winner.
To me, just finding out what material with these qualities they can work with is worthy of having read this entire discussion.
Rolo

Boatoutfitters.com is another company that does this sort of panel. I've used them for a couple of projects and they have delivered a quality product in a timely manner. They sell raw material, cut to size, or complete with all cutouts.