Tile Countertops?

I was thinking about re-doing the galley countertops in tile. I have done a lot of tiling and have the equipment. My only hesitation is that since a boat does move and twist, do the grout lines end up looking like hell after awhile? I see a lot of older boats with tile and think it looks pretty good. The other option is a composite counter made from a templatem but at quite few more dollars.

We tiled the countertops in the galley of our sailboat, it moves a lot more than the trawler, and it lasted for years until we sold it. Use a latex grout. Chuck

SS or Monel never go out of style.

We prefer to refresh simple Formica , as the cost is minor , and its easy to change colors.

use 1/4 inch underlayment Hardi backer and ( Mastic ) type adhesive it is what we used on the walls doing my back splash in the house it bonds slightly better. good prep and go with it. I have looked at boats that were tiled in the Mid 90's and it's still there.

I would think that as long as the counter doesn't move and twist the tiles would stay in place if properly laid.

I'm going granite when I get to that point. I have lots of tile in my raised house and no cracks. It moves a lot too.

The Eagle counter tops, galley/bar/bath rooms, are slate tile and the grout and tile still look great. The main thing is to make sure the counter has a strong base support.

Max Simmons said:

I was thinking about re-doing the galley countertops in tile. I have done a lot of tiling and have the equipment. My only hesitation is that since a boat does move and twist, do the grout lines end up looking like hell after awhile? I see a lot of older boats with tile and think it looks pretty good. The other option is a composite counter made from a templatem but at quite few more dollars.

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The proper technique for Granite tile is to butt the tiles together (to give it that seamless look). Very little grout will be needed in this scenario. If you like Granite, it may be a good choice. Good Luck!

FF said:

SS or Monel never go out of style.

We prefer to refresh simple Formica , as the cost is minor , and its easy to change colors.

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ff I am considering redoing the Formica laminate. Have you just replaced the laminate or the whole thickness (wood under it and all)? If just the laminate, do you peel the old off first and if so, any pointers?

THANKS! sorry Max to use your post to ask my question.

Hi Jennifer
Our old post, http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/counter-top-laminate-6358.html#post90158

Worked great and still looks factory, we love it!

Max,

It would be best to remove the entire top and put down a 3/4" B/C plywood base. Tile directly over that. No need for tile backer board in this application. If you do use a backer board it is not considered structural unless it is both mechanically fastened and glued down. Granite looks great just be sure the grout lines are 1/16" or less. Use non sanded grout with a latex additive for the granite.

I fabricated a countertop from a 3/4" slab over 1/2" plywood this spring. Some of the photos were posted in an earlier thread. Here are shots of the finished product.

Rob

Look at silestone (quartz Composite) comes in comes in thinner sheets then granite and is easier to work with. My brother owns a granite company and he recommended this for a boat. Since it is quartz it doesn't need to be sealed like granite.

Scrub the old laminate , then simply sand to get some bite.

No need to remove the old formica , just stick the next layer down.

In motorhomes I have seen up to 4 layers with no problems.

The big hassle is you get ONE shot at placement as you install it.

WE trimmed the back to fit , stuck it down , then used a router to trim the outside edge , under the sink, faucet holes etc.

Have fun!

Yes FF that one shot is so true, That adheisve for laminate once its on the back of the laminate and on the base where ever it lands thats it, There is no pulling it back up for a reset !

honeybadger said:

Yes FF that one shot is so true, That adheisve for laminate once its on the back of the laminate and on the base where ever it lands thats it, There is no pulling it back up for a reset !

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I've used thin strips of wood beneath projects I've done, after the adhesive is on. Position the new piece, then pull the center strip, push down to contact. Then work your way to the sides. I was also told you can run 1 piece of string back and forth, lay the new piece on top, then slowly pull the string out.

You guys are awesome, thank you SO MUCH! I am going to rip off the butcher block and replace the laminate underneath! One day I hope to do something nicer but this will be a big improvement in the meantime.

Anyone planning to install or replace countertops on their boat would do well to do more research into proper techniques than what has been presented here.

I wouldn't recommend installing anything over an existing laminate top because if the laminate to substrate bond fails, your new top is ruined. As for tile, while it can look great, the grout lines can't be easily sanitized. A former neighbor of mine ripped out and replaced a perfectly good tile counter top in her kitchen because of that.

If you have a solid laminate countertop but just don't like the color, Rustoleum has kits to "paint" it different colors and patterns.

rwidman said:

Anyone planning to install or replace countertops on their boat would do well to do more research into proper techniques than what has been presented here.

I wouldn't recommend installing anything over an existing laminate top because if the laminate to substrate bond fails, your new top is ruined. As for tile, while it can look great, the grout lines can't be easily sanitized. A former neighbor of mine ripped out and replaced a perfectly good tile counter top in her kitchen because of that.

If you have a solid laminate countertop but just don't like the color, Rustoleum has kits to "paint" it different colors and patterns.

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Sorry but I have been in the tile business for a lot of years and have never removed a counter top or had anyone ask to have one removed because of grout sanitation. That is just not an issue any more than laminate, stone or paint will be. Our tile counters on our sailboat held up for years and we suffered no illness, neither did we suffer illness from our tile counters at home for decades. To say it should not be used because of sanitary problems is just not accurate. There are literally millions of homes in this country with tile and grout on the countertops. Germs can grow on any surface. You are quite correct that anything put over another surface will only be as good as the surface you are covering. I wouldn't recommend putting anything over a laminate surface unless you don't care whether you have to do it again. Chuck

Capn Chuck said:

Sorry but I have been in the tile business for a lot of years and have never removed a counter top or had anyone ask to have one removed because of grout sanitation. That is just not an issue any more than laminate, stone or paint will be. Our tile counters on our sailboat held up for years and we suffered no illness, neither did we suffer illness from our tile counters at home for decades. To say it should not be used because of sanitary problems is just not accurate. There are literally millions of homes in this country with tile and grout on the countertops. Germs can grow on any surface. You are quite correct that anything put over another surface will only be as good as the surface you are covering. I wouldn't recommend putting anything over a laminate surface unless you don't care whether you have to do it again. Chuck

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Agreed...oooppppsss sorry..meant to say call a pro because the rest of us are ignorant lackeys....

plus if you are scared about using contact cement and missing the one shot deal with formica...use epoxy instead of cement...you can slide it around for hours...just make sure you have it properly/evenly weighted down when you finally walk away for a few hours...

Datenight, your counter top looks great. I have to make sure my wife doesn't see those pictures.

Simplest way to weight it down evenly is 4 inches of sand , just like installing Treadmaster.

Capn Chuck said:

Sorry but I have been in the tile business for a lot of years and have never removed a counter top or had anyone ask to have one removed because of grout sanitation. That is just not an issue any more than laminate, stone or paint will be. Our tile counters on our sailboat held up for years and we suffered no illness, neither did we suffer illness from our tile counters at home for decades. To say it should not be used because of sanitary problems is just not accurate. There are literally millions of homes in this country with tile and grout on the countertops. Germs can grow on any surface. You are quite correct that anything put over another surface will only be as good as the surface you are covering. I wouldn't recommend putting anything over a laminate surface unless you don't care whether you have to do it again. Chuck

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My neighbor had a beautifull tile kitchen countertop ripped out and replaced with solid surface when she bought the house because she believed it was unsanitary. I didn't say she wasn't nuts, I just said that it happened.

She may be the only person in history to have done that, but I know for a fact that she did because we were freinds with her and her husband and were in their house many times. I saw it before and I saw it afterwards.

Installing laminate on a sound substrate is a piece of cake. Make a pattern or not, depending on the installation, dry fit, leaving an overhang wherever possible, apply contact cement according to the instructions on the can, let it dry, use sticks, kraft paper, etc. to keep the laminate off the substrate while you position it, then remove the sticks or kraft paper to allow the laminate to bond to the substrate.

Then apply pressure with a laminate roller to remove air bubbles and insure good contact.

Use a router and a laminate bit with a ball bearing roller to trim the laminate and a laminate file for areas the router won't reach.

I recently installed laminate on my boat on the vertical surfaces under the seats where I removed the original carpet.



There are several videos on youtube.com showing how to install laminate.

Or hire a pro!

Capn Chuck said:

. I wouldn't recommend putting anything over a laminate surface unless you don't care whether you have to do it again. Chuck

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this describes my situation- short term fix with bigger plans down the road.

rwidman said:

I recently installed laminate on my boat on the vertical surfaces under the seats where I removed the original carpet.
)

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That looks great. Did you do the teak and holly as well? It looks brand new! Beautiful.

Pineapple Girl said:

That looks great. Did you do the teak and holly as well? It looks brand new! Beautiful.

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Thanks. Yes I did. I cut and milled the trim and baseboard out of a 2X10 mahogany board as well.

I did it this past winter.

Pineapple Girl said:

this describes my situation- short term fix with bigger plans down the road.

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Took a peek under the butcher block around the sink and found the old counter underneath badly damaged. Onto plan B of redoing it the way we really want it in a few months versus a quick fix now and the redo in a year or two.

Pineapple Girl said:

........... Onto plan B of redoing it the way we really want it in a few months versus a quick fix now and the redo in a year or two.

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That's a good plan..

IF you are tall enough that raising the counter top by 3/4 inch ,is OK, the procedure would be the same.

However , I would use PL glue to put the new ply to the old laminate surface.