Entec West Genny advice.

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JDCAVE

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Kadey Krogen 42 (1985)
I’m looking for thoughts and advice on a coolant leak issue on an Entec West Genny. This Genny has the Farymann engine. A major issue for me is the sound shield pretty much excludes access to the heat exchanger. Changing the zinc is a major, major headache!

If anyone has considerable experience with this model (the one with the external March raw water pump) I’d be interested in your advice. Failing that I will contact “Mastry Engine centre” Monday, who have taken over Entec.

Jim
 
A bump to this thread, to ask if anyone has recently sourced parts for this make? I phoned “Mastry” and they said they no longer provide parts for Entec Gennies. They gave a name a phone number for someone and it just rings and rings. I’ll see if a text goes through.

Jim
 
What parts are you looking for? If Farymann parts are needed, Farymann North America is a good start.

For the generators electrical, Entec West? The electric end was manufactured by an Italian company whose name escapes me.

I was a dealer for Entec until the company was sold, about 10 years ago.

It's not difficult to unbolt the generator from it's mount, undo the screws on the narrow plate at the front where all the hoses and wires are routed, and slide the generator forward and the sound shield rearward. The generator weighs 170# The exhaust hose might have to be disconnected.
 
What parts are needed? There are marinization parts that were installed by Entec, some of which might be generic like the March pump. There are also core diesel parts that came with the engine and Farymann can supply those. Farymann diesel has a North American office: https://farymann.com/.

You will need to do some investigating to find the leak so you know which source of parts if any to pursue.

David
 
Thanks David. I have found that the freshwater water (coolant) pump is seized, so I need one of those and probably a head gasket. I have a new March Pump.

I’ll phone Farymann tomorrow.

Jim
 
Thanks David. I have found that the freshwater water (coolant) pump is seized, so I need one of those and probably a head gasket. I have a new March Pump.

I’ll phone Farymann tomorrow.

Jim

That fresh water pump is a Johnson Pump with a rubber impeller in it. Same as a raw water pump. I seem to recall that the water pump was unique to the Entec but that was before Dave at Entec started using the March 120 VAC pump for raw water.

Before the March pump development, Entec used two pumps siamesed together with a single shaft turning both impellers. One impeller for fresh water and another for raw water. The seal between the two pumps would leak and caused raw water to migrate to the fresh water side, eventually filling the fresh water side with raw water.

I'll search my store room tomorrow and see if I have any Entec parts remaining.

The fresh water pump can be rebuilt easily with a pump service kit. It is no different than rebuilding a raw water pump. The kit should include a new bearing, which is what got water in it from a leaking seal and seized it. You hopefully will not need a new shaft since those were expensive.
 
That fresh water pump is a Johnson Pump with a rubber impeller in it. Same as a raw water pump. I seem to recall that the water pump was unique to the Entec but that was before Dave at Entec started using the March 120 VAC pump for raw water.



Before the March pump development, Entec used two pumps siamesed together with a single shaft turning both impellers. One impeller for fresh water and another for raw water. The seal between the two pumps would leak and caused raw water to migrate to the fresh water side, eventually filling the fresh water side with raw water.



I'll search my store room tomorrow and see if I have any Entec parts remaining.



The fresh water pump can be rebuilt easily with a pump service kit. It is no different than rebuilding a raw water pump. The kit should include a new bearing, which is what got water in it from a leaking seal and seized it. You hopefully will not need a new shaft since those were expensive.


Syjos, that sounds interesting and I’d be very interested to learn what you might have. The freshwater/coolant water pump is definitely seized. After topping up the coolant tank, I started the engine this morning with the heat shield off to watch what was going on and the belt from the engine to the pump tore into pieces trying to turn the pump and I shut it down immediately. It cannot be turned by hand. Just to be clear, the March Pump is working fine.

Jim
 
Do you have another belt? That toothed belt might be difficult to locate.

I'll dig around today and see what I have remaining.
 
I have one other belt and I’ve found a few online. I still have the belt and the model number etc. One thing is for sure: I’m not installing another belt and firing this thing up until the coolant pump is fixed. It was impressive watching that belt tear itself to shreds!

Jim
 
I have one other belt and I’ve found a few online. I still have the belt and the model number etc. One thing is for sure: I’m not installing another belt and firing this thing up until the coolant pump is fixed. It was impressive watching that belt tear itself to shreds!

Jim

I would take the pump off and take it apart to see what condition the bearing is in and to determine if the shaft is frozen to the bearing.
 
Thanks again, Syjos. I will be out of internet range for the next week or so but will touch base when back in range.

Jim
 
If it was leaking before, and now seized and shredded the belt, it sounds like the leaking water got in an rusted up the bearing. So a pretty complete rebuild is probably called for. But great that you are onto the source of the problem.
 
TT: thanks. I’m not happy with the unit. It’s always given trouble. I’d replace it in a heartbeat except for the cost of a new unit. The availability of parts also seems like an issue. The PO put it in just before sale. I’m guessing it’s his revenge!

Jim
 
TT: thanks. I’m not happy with the unit. It’s always given trouble. I’d replace it in a heartbeat except for the cost of a new unit. The availability of parts also seems like an issue. The PO put it in just before sale. I’m guessing it’s his revenge!

Jim

I've been searching through my stuff and have not located the box of Entec parts yet. I've got a few more places to look.

I was a dealer and installed the Entec generator into our previous boat. When we purchased Sandpiper, we swapped generators since the Entec was only three years old.

In the first 3 years that we owned the Entec, while on warranty, the rotor had to be replaced, temperature sensor for shutdown was too low and engine died frequently. After those were replaced, it ran trouble free for about 5 to 6 years.

Around 6 years, capacitor went out, at 7 years the combination fresh/raw water pump leaked raw water into the engine, at 8 years the engine had to come out for diode replacement, at 10 years the generator started belching black smoke and soot out the exhaust. Had injection pump and injector rebuilt by Dave at Entec, no reduction of black smoke. Dave drove up from Portland to troubleshoot. He adjusted valves, adjusted timing, replaced the capacitor with no improvement.

I took the Entec out of the boat for the 5th time and drove it down to Entec in Portland. I had Dave install a new Faryman engine to my electric end. I told him to run the generator for at least a couple hours before I would pick it up.

Reinstalled generator and it still belched black smoke with the new engine. WTF? Called Dave and he said he forgot to run the engine in the shop. He drove up again and tested the exhaust system for blockage, sound enclosure for clogged intake baffle, adjusted valves, changed capacitors, adjusted RPM etc and the Entec still belched smoke.

Dave was in the process of selling Entec and did not have time to do anything so he gave me a refund for the new engine. I took the engine off the electric end, ran it and it did not smoke so sold it by itself. Sold the sound enclosure and electric end for parts. The original engine did not smoke without the electric end and sold that too. Lost about $400 overall.

Once you get your Entec running, I would sell it while it runs well. With questionable parts availability and no manufacturer support, you are in for a lot of headaches. I was a dealer with the manufacturer located 100 miles away and still had too many issues.

The only reason to buy the Entec was it's small size and low weight. It was the only generator that would fit the previous boat. On Sandpiper, there wasn't sufficient space for a larger generator either. After removing the Entec, I had to relocate part of the rear engine room bulkhead 12" to make room for the Westerbeke 5.5 generator.

I paid around $3,500, dealer cost for the Entec and sound enclosure around 1997. I believe that I got my money's worth even with the issues, but I would never buy another 3600 RPM single cylinder generator again.
 
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There are alternatives to the Entec with its troublesome Farryman engine. The NextGen 3.5 uses the proven Kubota block and the Markel?? 5 Kw generator end.

It uses a clever thermosyphon scheme that avoids a coolant pump. Works fine. Its belt driven generator allows the engine to run at a reasonable 2,800 rpm. Ours was trouble free for many years.

The sound enclosure contains engine noises, but there are lots of exhaust noise though.

David
 
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TT: thanks. I’m not happy with the unit. It’s always given trouble. I’d replace it in a heartbeat except for the cost of a new unit. The availability of parts also seems like an issue. The PO put it in just before sale. I’m guessing it’s his revenge!

Jim

I've been searching through my stuff and have not located the box of Entec parts yet. I've got a few more places to look.

I was a dealer and installed the Entec generator into our previous boat. When we purchased Sandpiper, we swapped generators since the Entec was only three years old.

In the first 3 years that we owned the Entec, while on warranty, the rotor had to be replaced, temperature sensor for shutdown was too low and engine died frequently. After those were replaced, it ran trouble free for about 5 to 6 years.

Around 6 years, capacitor went out, at 7 years the combination fresh/raw water pump leaked raw water into the engine, at 8 years the engine had to come out for diode replacement, at 10 years the generator started belching black smoke and soot out the exhaust. Had injection pump and injector rebuilt by Dave at Entec, no change. Dave drove up from Portland to troubleshoot. He adjusted valves, adjusted timing, replaced the capacitor with no improvement.

I took the Entec out of the boat for the 5th time and drove it down to Entec in Portland. I had Dave install a new Faryman engine to my electric end. I told him to run the generator for at least a couple hours before I would pick it up.

Reinstalled generator and it still belched black smoke with the new engine. WTF? Called Dave and he said he forgot to run the engine in the shop. He drove up again and tested the exhaust system for blockage, sound enclosure for clogged intake baffle, adjusted valves, changed capacitors, adjusted RPM etc and the Entec still belched smoke.

Dave was in the process of selling Entec and did not have time to do anything so he gave me a refund for the new engine. I took the engine off the electric end, ran it and it did not smoke so sold it by itself. Sold the sound enclosure and electric end for parts. The original engine did not smoke without the electric end and sold that too. Lost about $400 overall after figuring injector and injection pump rebuild and new engine.

Once you get your Entec running, I would sell it while it runs well. With questionable parts availability and no manufacturer support, you are in for a lot of headaches. I was a dealer with the manufacturer, Entec located 100 miles away and still had too many issues.

The only reason to buy the Entec was it's small size and low weight. It was the only generator that would fit the previous boat. On Sandpiper, there wasn't sufficient space for a larger generator either. After removing the Entec, I had to relocate part of the rear engine room bulkhead 12" to make room for the Westerbeke 5.5 generator.

I paid around $3,500, dealer cost for the Entec and sound enclosure around 1997. I believe that I got my money's worth even with the issues, but I would never buy another 3600 RPM single cylinder generator again.
 
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Syjos. Thank you for your very complete and honest reply! Sigh! I am coming to the realization work on this unit is not worth the frustration. We are heading south again. Too many issues on this trip. The shutdown of the windlass (another story) is the last straw. Too unchanged work to do in remote towns where I don’t know the trades people.

Jim
 
Syjos. Thank you for your very complete and honest reply! Sigh! I am coming to the realization work on this unit is not worth the frustration. We are heading south again. Too many issues on this trip. The shutdown of the windlass (another story) is the last straw. Too unchanged work to do in remote towns where I don’t know the trades people.

Jim


Found a Chemtrol check valve that came with the March pump modification.

Still searching for Entec parts. One more place to look. I know that I had a complete siamesed spare pump, capacitors, impellers, fuel pump, injector, gaskets and other things. It's been about 7 - 8 years since since I quit being a dealer and I don't remember if I sold the parts or not.
 

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Syjos. That check valve broke and I replaced it with a brass one.

Hmmm! Maspower has this offering.

https://www.mastry.com/products/MasPowerGenerators4kW.asp

Parts must be somewhat interchangeable. Why did they send me elsewhere for parts?

I never installed plastic anything on a raw water line. I hope you meant bronze instead of brass.

That Maspower looks identical to an Entec West to me. Even has the siamesed double pump.

Most manufacturers tend to let distributors and dealers handle parts and service. A dealer servicing them would be my first place to search for parts.

There used to be an Entec West dealer in Nanimo, up on the road above the marinas and boat yards. Don't recall the name. They continued carrying it after EW ownership change.
 
No, it’s probably brass. I keep a close eye on it. I don’t think you can get bronze check valves unfortunately. The “plastic” one cracked and leaked badly so I guess you choose your poison.

I’ll look into that place in Nanaimo. I think I know that chandlery.

Jim
 
No, it’s probably brass. I keep a close eye on it and the seacock is always closed unless we use the Genny. I don’t think you can get bronze check valves unfortunately. The “plastic” one cracked and leaked badly so I guess you choose your poison.

I’ll look into that place in Nanaimo. I think I know that chandlery.

Jim
 
Groco manufacturers bronze check valves.

I would'nt want a brass check valve in a raw water line .
 
Here is an update to this thread: I discussed this with my insurer and they believed this could be an insurance claim. I met with the adjuster at the boat and after review of my maintenance logs and the very clean engine room he felt a claim was justified. He suggested I proceed with an oil sample. I fired up the Genny for 1 minute only to mix up the oil (no coolant pump) and took a sample to send in to Finning Canada. They replied there was no evidence of coolant in the oil but there was elevated metals. They recommended a series of oil samples as a single sample was not conclusive.

This step would require fixing the coolant pump. As the manufacturer is no longer in business, I contacted the US distributor of Farymann engines. Yes he had the part and sent it to me.

IMG_4046.jpg

At left is what I have. At right is what he sent!

Sigh! He said the part I have is no longer available. Send it back and he would refund. He suggested an external pump.

I am exploring obtaining a “March” pump for hot beer wort. I talked to March and they felt this would be suitable. It is suitable for continuous duty.

https://www.marchpump.com/pump/815-pl-beer-magnetic-drive-pump/

7 gallons per minute.

Before I send out another $600 USD on another wile goose chase, what do the Experts think?

Ultimately I want to get a claim that can be applied to a new Northern Lights 5 kw unit.

Jim
 
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Here is an update to this thread: I discussed this with my insurer and they believed this could be an insurance claim. I met with the adjuster at the boat and after review of my maintenance logs and the very clean engine room he felt a claim was justified. He suggested I proceed with an oil sample. I fired up the Genny for 1 minute only to mix up the oil (no coolant pump) and took a sample to send in to Finning Canada. They replied there was no evidence of coolant in the oil but there was elevated metals. They recommended a series of oil samples as a single sample was not conclusive.

This step would require fixing the coolant pump. As the manufacturer is no longer in business, I contacted the US distributor of Farymann engines. Yes he had the part and sent it to me.

View attachment 113681

At left is what I have. At right is what he sent!

Sigh! He said the part I have is no longer available. Send it back and he would refund. He suggested an external pump.

I am exploring obtaining a “March” pump for hot beer wort. I talked to March and they felt this would be suitable. It is suitable for continuous duty.

https://www.marchpump.com/pump/815-pl-beer-magnetic-drive-pump/

7 gallons per minute.

Before I send out another $600 USD on another wile goose chase, what do the Experts think?

Ultimately I want to get a claim that can be applied to a new Northern Lights 5 kw unit.

Jim

That pump on the right is an OEM Entec NW pump. There is another pump that attaches to that for raw water.
 
...yes but it’s not clear how it can be mounted for my setup. Quite frankly I’m not keen on sending good money after bad on this one. The question I guess is whether this pump has an appropriate flow. I suspect it does. The current raw water setup uses a March pump.

Jim
 
...yes but it’s not clear how it can be mounted for my setup. Quite frankly I’m not keen on sending good money after bad on this one. The question I guess is whether this pump has an appropriate flow. I suspect it does. The current raw water setup uses a March pump.

Jim


The LC3CP March Pump is what Entec used for their AC raw water pump option. They used an industrial 1/2" ball check valve, made by Chemtrol, to prevent water from evacuating out of the pump by gravity.

The way I recall, with feeble memory, the pump mounting. It mounted to the plate at the fron of the engine, held in place with C clip. Cogged pulley was mounted to shaft.

I might have a parts manual for the Entec on one of my computers that, if I find it, will post here.
 
The LC3CP March Pump is what Entec used for their AC raw water pump option. They used an industrial 1/2" ball check valve, made by Chemtrol, to prevent water from evacuating out of the pump by gravity.


Yes. That is what I have for the raw water. However the coolant temperatures are too high for this pump. March has a version that can withstand beer wort that has come off the boil, so is designed to pump higher temperature fluids.

Jim
 
Johnson and several other companies makes hot liquid pumps for hydronic heating.

Look at Sure Marines website - suremarineservice.com
 
I phoned March. They have this one for list $318USD:

https://www.marchpump.com/pump/815-pl-beer-magnetic-drive-pump/

and a Stainless version

https://www.marchpump.com/pump/815-ss-c-beer-magnetic-drive-pump/

I have to go through a distributor and they found one in North Vancouver one for me.

It turns out they have the 4 of the SS version in stock and are willing to sell at a 15% discount as she wants to move out the stock. Price would be $359 USD which suits me just fine.

I'm going to give this a whirl, plumb it up, put it through some baby-step tests and watch temperatures carefully with a pyrometer.

Jim
 
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