Reworking The Brightwork Videos

Bought a variable heat gun and palm sander to start getting after my foredeck brightwork. Was looking for some thoughts on approach and found this guy.

Great videos from Jamestown Distributors with Louis Sauzedde. I found it interesting that he filters his varnish - probably cans he has previously opened.

I have subscribed as there are quite a few interesting videos.

His web site: Tips From A Shipwright – Wooden Boat Building Video Series

I think filtering varnish is potentially important. I also have found that I am not disciplined enough to keep filters in such a way that they neither get smashed/destroyed before I use them or filled full of sawdust.

Louis is a pretty talented guy. He is somewhat of a legend here in Rhode Island. The other fellow in the video does a lot of my varnish work. He is a lot of fun, very talented, and a good friend.

When I first got started Varnishing it was difficult to find quality information, as most professionals don't want to give up 30 years of secrets, and the rest are just hacks going for it. Watching Louis got me started in a lot of this varnish stuff, reading Rebecca's books made me a little better at it.

Another good bit of info is a book by Rebecca-J-Wittman Called Brightwork.
She also has another book out that is a paperback, and hard to find with clear step by step instructions. Its called the Brightwork Companion.

https://www.amazon.com/Brightwork-Finishing-Rebecca-J-Wittman/dp/0877429847

I am no pro, but getting better, I would like to move up to spraying Varnish, but have yet to find anyone that will show me the ways. I have a pressure pot system, I may just go for it on some scrap and see how it goes. And I also see a lot of newer boats are going with the full gloss systems inside, some are automotive clear's and others are straight varnish...

I don’t agree with the scraping technique. To strip I use a cheap heat gun and a Bahco scraper. ALWAYS pulling it towards me. I can accomplish more with that scraper with less damage to the wood. Second when I open a new can of varnish I pour it into empty plastic water bottles for storage. Very easy to squeeze out the air and twist on the cap. Varnish will store for years without skinning over if there is no air present.

menzies said:

Bought a variable heat gun and palm sander to start getting after my foredeck brightwork. Was looking for some thoughts on approach and found this guy.

Great videos from Jamestown Distributors with Louis Sauzedde. I found it interesting that he filters his varnish - probably cans he has previously opened.

I have subscribed as there are quite a few interesting videos.

His web site: Tips From A Shipwright – Wooden Boat Building Video Series

Click to expand...

Glossy paint should be filtered too, at least the last coat that your'e not going to sand.

I have sprayed Minwax, lacquer, and Awlwood with great success.

A potgun is great for cabinets and trim, but usually way too much for a boat.

I recommend going to Harbor freight and getting a small touch up gun to play with. Start by reducing 20% and go from there.

Takes lots of coats.

Go to my blog, grandbankschoices. Dig down.
I sprayed sign boards, window frames, steering wheel, etc.

Good luck.

Choices said:

I have sprayed Minwax, lacquer, and Awlwood with great success.

A potgun is great for cabinets and trim, but usually way too much for a boat.

I recommend going to Harbor freight and getting a small touch up gun to play with. Start by reducing 20% and go from there.

Takes lots of coats.

Go to my blog, grandbankschoices. Dig down.
I sprayed sign boards, window frames, steering wheel, etc.

Good luck.

Click to expand...

Thank you!

Choices said:

I have sprayed Minwax, lacquer, and Awlwood with great success.

A potgun is great for cabinets and trim, but usually way too much for a boat.

I recommend going to Harbor freight and getting a small touch up gun to play with. Start by reducing 20% and go from there.

Takes lots of coats.

Go to my blog, grandbankschoices. Dig down.
I sprayed sign boards, window frames, steering wheel, etc.

Good luck.

Click to expand...

I have found that awlwood shrinks a bit as it dries pulling out brush marks. Much easier to get professional finish. No need to spray and less need to sand between coats.