Westerbeke generator

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I did, and I jumped the fuel solenoid valve and it clicked in just like it supposed to.
 
Also the voltage at the pre-heat switch is one volt less on the bottom as opposed to the top post which is the power coming in
 
Also the voltage at the pre-heat switch is one volt less on the bottom as opposed to the top post which is the power coming in

I concur, but you pretty much have to hit that preheat switch to start the darn thing.
Hope we helped in some small way, if not, maybe time to concede and bring in the experts, such as they are, LOL!
 
Dkk3000..if you are still stumped with this after Christmas I would be glad to come out and help. My boat is in Tarpon Springs.
 
I must not be getting this. Did the fuel solenoid pull the lever open when you hit the preheat switch? Or just when you jumped it.
 
My mistake on the layout of your generator. Evidently your fuel run solenoid is threaded into the back of the fuel injection pump. Principle is the same though. It needs to be energized when the preheat switch is on in order for fuel to be delivered to the injectors. My 8.0 has an external lever that the solenoid pulls open. Screenshot_20201221-095139_Drive.jpeg
 
No I jumped the switch with 12 V and it work, nothing will work with the pre-heat switch. That’s why I’m wondering if it’s not the relay inside the electrical box. I’m going to check the switches this morning. I believe the water temperature Swiches should be open and the pressure switch should be closed. I think
 
Got it. Did you try jumping the preheat toggle switch to see if that's not defective? Also the stop switch is normally closed so you can jump that as well to make sure that it hasn't gone bad and is staying open.
Be careful about cranking too much if you're in the water with the seacock open.
 
No I jumped the switch with 12 V and it work, nothing will work with the pre-heat switch. That’s why I’m wondering if it’s not the relay inside the electrical box. I’m going to check the switches this morning. I believe the water temperature Swiches should be open and the pressure switch should be closed. I think


I think you are close with the relay. Check to see if the control signal is activating as it should. That's the other thing that could be preventing the relay from doing it's thing.


Also, you could try pulling out the other relays and trying that to see if it correctly works. That would tell you if it's a bad relay, or something else. Or just get a new relay and try it. No harm in having a spare on hand.
 
Water temp switch normally closed, oil pressure sensor normally open. Preheat only affects oil pressure sensor, bypassing it until oil pressure builds and closes it.
 
I’m getting proper power to the relay however when the pre-heat switches engage I’m getting no power from the other side of the relay. Is it possible to jump the oil pressure switch.
 
Looks that way.....two spade terminals on the switch.
 
I’m getting proper power to the relay however when the pre-heat switches engage I’m getting no power from the other side of the relay. Is it possible to jump the oil pressure switch.



I think you have a bad relay. The preheat switch bypasses the various safety switches, so they are not at play until you release the preheat switch. You could swap in the other relay to confirm, assuming they are the same.

BTW, it would appear that the schematics posted earlier are for a different model or generation of generator. You have two relays shown in the picture, but there is only one in the schematic. So take that schematic with a grain of salt.
 
Relay definitely in the mix of suspects!Screenshot_20201221-120222_Drive.jpeg
 
Does anybody know if I can get that relay at an auto parts store. Westerbeke has to order it
 
Does anybody know if I can get that relay at an auto parts store. Westerbeke has to order it



There are probably lots of sources. Any manufacturer name or part number visible on it? I assume it’s a 12v genset, and not 24v?

I’ll beat most any automotive generic “cube” relay would work. Just look for similar sized thermals. They look like spade terminals with slip on connectors on the wires? Should be pretty easy to find an equivalent part.
 
All I could find was 40 amp 12v or 20 amp 24v. Pull it out and try auto parts store. Westerbeke prices are always insane.
 
Thought...switch them. If the relay is bad, starter won't turn over.
 
I’ve got to relays. I’m not sure what the other one does. I was thinking about swapping them out and see if the pre-heat switch will work. Is the other one for the starter? The way it is now, with the pre-heat switched down the engine will turn over
 
This is my spare relay that my guy here in MX got at a local auto parts store. And I think they are both the same.
 

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Hi DKK, Our Westy BTD 8kw had this same issue...ran fine then one day NO clunk when preheating. For us it was the "Fuel shut off Solenoid" and we confirmed that by sending me down to manually push the solenoid open. While the missus started it normally with 15sec for glow plugs to glow. Try that before you chase other things, it's easy and confirms the issue. Our generator once it fired would run normally....then i let go of the solenoid and it's running. Until next time you need to use it.
Our fix was fit a new one purchased online for $170, fix took less than 30 min.
Good luck
 
Yes both relays are the same, one for the starter motor solenoid and one for the fuel solenoid. You can swap them and see what happens. Engine shouldn't turn over if that relay is bad.
 
Nomad, same here with my 8.0. Evidently the solenoid continues to work to hold the lever in the on position, just doesn't work to pull the lever open. His solenoid setup is different, it works directly on the fuel injection body without the lever.
 
I don't know if this has been mentioned before. On most relays the activation circuit are numbers 85 and 86. One of those should ground. The hot source is number 30. The load is number 87.
 
Read the 1st page!
 

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Hi DKK, Our Westy BTD 8kw had this same issue...ran fine then one day NO clunk when preheating. For us it was the "Fuel shut off Solenoid" and we confirmed that by sending me down to manually push the solenoid open. While the missus started it normally with 15sec for glow plugs to glow. Try that before you chase other things, it's easy and confirms the issue. Our generator once it fired would run normally....then i let go of the solenoid and it's running. Until next time you need to use it.
Our fix was fit a new one purchased online for $170, fix took less than 30 min.
Good luck
Exactly what I did with an Onan MDKD 6.5. A new $400 solenoid from Onan/Cummins fixed the problem,got a back up one via Ebay for $65. Both made in China,probably in the same factory.It`s usually the fuel solenoid.
Note it has 1) a pull in function and 2) a hold function. You can get it running manually if 2 still works by doing 1 manually, but you`d soon tire of manually replacing 2.
 
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DKK, the relay is just a switch that connects the circuit for the preheat and fuel solenoid to power. It seems to me that connecting the hot leads on the load side to each other should operate the solenoid and glow plugs so that you can fire up the engine with the starter switch.
 
Didn't work
 

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