Awlgrip Cleaning and Maintenance help

The boat has an Awlgrip painted hull/house. I have read what I can find on-line. But I am looking for a way to remove the PO's varnish runs down the house sides under the windows without harming the Awlgrip. Any suggestions?

Wax the area well and then carefully / gently use a new razor blade. The blade should slide easily over the paint and take off the varnish.

Let the sun's uv eat at them for a while before running a razor blade under them. Awlgrip is pretty hard stuff, and I used to screw up regularly with some varnish overruns on my white AWLGRIP. I once taped an acetone soaked rag over an area to soften up some Epifanes. I would NEVER mess with my current red AwlCRAFT like that.

Thanks for the tips. It’s been on for 2 years, so it is what it is now. What do you wax your awlgrip with?

RonR said:

Thanks for the tips. It’s been on for 2 years, so it is what it is now. What do you wax your awlgrip with?

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Not supposed to have to wax Awlgrip. Just use the wax in the specific area to lubricate the razor blade. I don’t think wax will hurt if you are so inclined.

They recommend using Awlcare which a polymer liquid and pretty easy on/off by hand which they also recommend.

RonR said:

Thanks for the tips. It’s been on for 2 years, so it is what it is now. What do you wax your awlgrip with?

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On my Bacchus website in Links section there is a page for Awlcraft care.
I dont see any boat specifics but Mainship used Awlcraft 200 at factory and there are some subtle differences in care between that and true Awlgrip.

I have Awlcraft 2000 on my topsides and deckhouse. I was using Awlwash and Awlcare and it didn't seem to last long, especially at $30+ per bottle.

I have a bit of an issue with a company mandating you use ONLY their polymer 'wax' and then charging $30+ for 16oz.

My paint is now old enough (still looks great) that I chose to switch to one of the ceramic 'wax' products. After watching a few Youtube comparison videos, I use the wash and 'wax' from Turtle Wax (photo below). WAAAAY cheaper, and easier still to apply. After 6 months, I am very impressed. We'll see if there are any downsides later.

Video here

http://s3.amazonaws.com/ClubExpressClubFiles/597287/attach/2684513_0_CeramicWaxCrop.mp4

shows beading after several months and two washings in Florida.


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Fair enough, thank you for the tips

I use Mequires Nano something yellow car wash. Doesn't hurt wax and really makes boat shine.

I use Awlwash/Awlcare on the hull. Topside is gelcoat, and I use Permanon there. Rinse water beads up on the hull six months to a year after application. Boat lives on a lift under a cover, but the south side of the red hull gets plenty of sun.

I’d try plastic razor blades before metal ones. I’ve been using the Foshio brand for several years and they are the best. I’ve tried other brands but I haven’t found any that are better. The Foshio’s hold an edge and don’t scratch the paint. A little heat may help but be careful. A box of 200 blades and handles are less than $15 on Amazon.

Larry M said:

I’d try plastic razor blades before metal ones. I’ve been using the Foshio brand for several years and they are the best. I’ve tried other brands but I haven’t found any that are better. The Foshio’s hold an edge and don’t scratch the paint. A little heat may help but be careful. A box of 200 blades and handles are less than $15 on Amazon.

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Thank you !

I got about 20% of the runs off, ended up using 3m Finess-it 2 Glaze and 3M Pefect-it Boat wax. I did manage to burn the paint in one little spot, but that's the way it goes sometime.