Anyone Try this Dive System

I am not affiliated with this company. I am thinking of getting one. Would be good cleaning the boat bottom.

https://www.diveblu3.com/nemo/?utm_...lu3friday&mc_cid=fb39ff4aab&mc_eid=e5e1371d9b

Alaskan Sea-Duction said:

I am not affiliated with this company. I am thinking of getting one. Would be good cleaning the boat bottom.

https://www.diveblu3.com/nemo/?utm_...lu3friday&mc_cid=fb39ff4aab&mc_eid=e5e1371d9b

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Hindreds of suggestions on the web to build your own hooka system from sometimes many parts you may already have.


My first setup cost me less than $50 in parts and a compressor I already owned and kept on board for other reasons.



Would I use it as a pro diver? no...but a dozen times a year or so about and hour underwater...it has worked great.



Couldn't travel to a dingy..so this ad looks interesting....but not yet.

I went with this. I didn't want to rely on a separate rechargable battery. I run it off the boat's main 12V system.

https://www.seabreathe.com/products/single-diver-deck-unit-offshore#desc

Different company, but the use case is the same. Has paid for itself multiple times over for bottom cleaning and zinc replacement. Saved the day once when in a remote anchorage and some #$*&! had a floating line but no buoy on a trap.

Good luck. I expect you will find it really useful.

I have 4 tanks onboard and and a Third Lung regulator on about 1 70ft hose. I want to be tethered to the boat. I also have the compressor in the store room that will support 2 divers. It is 120vt electric. Just my personal preference.
I also wear an inflatable vest and weight belt too.
If course, you need a snorkel, mask and fins plus the necessary guns and knives LOL

I have a simple Hooka. Given to me, refurbished it (really nothing to do, put in new valve), had new 50ft line made up and works great around the boat. Is 120v so if I'm going to be down awhile, I'll run the genny.



For diving, it's fair, but can get down 10 to 20 feet and look around a bit.


However, it's dirt simple, takes up very little space and has been reliable.

If you're a certified scuba diver, IMO, the simplest safest system for going under your boat is to put a 50' hose between the first and second stage of a scuba regulator, and leave the tank on your boat. Depending on the size of your boat, air consumption, and how fouled the bottom is, you should be able to clean the boat once to several times with a standard size tank. I could do mine about 3 times.

If you're not a certified scuba diver, what you don't know can kill you.

Ted

I also have a Seabreathe, and have used it a couple of times to clean the boat. Combined with a LFP battery it is pretty convenient. The DiveBlu looks interesting as it is compact and lightweight, the downsides I can see are the cost and the 10' hose. 10' will barely be enough to clean the bottom and you'll be wishing for 20 at least. Not necessarily for depth, but for reach. They do not offer a longer hose, I'm guessing because the unique pump and regulator system do not support any more depth.

DDW said:

I also have a Seabreathe, and have used it a couple of times to clean the boat. Combined with a LFP battery it is pretty convenient. The DiveBlu looks interesting as it is compact and lightweight, the downsides I can see are the cost and the 10' hose. 10' will barely be enough to clean the bottom and you'll be wishing for 20 at least. Not necessarily for depth, but for reach. They do not offer a longer hose, I'm guessing because the unique pump and regulator system do not support any more depth.

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IMO, 10ft is not enough. Battery power, no thank you.

OC DIVER, I totally agree with you, a certified diver. Especially if you have a hose more than 30ft.

Quick release weight belt, start with 10% of your body weigh. Add or subtract until you achieve neutral buoyancy.

I'd also recommend a 3mm suit. Gotta protect your skin and after a bit of time in the water, you will wish you had a suit. Hint: pour some warm/hot water down the front and back of the suit. Dont have to wait for your body to warm the water next to your skin.

Does anybody know how many cubic feet per minute of air you need to breathe? Would a compressor that puts out 1/2 cu ft @ 90 psi work for a shallow water dive rig?

Please don't use a compressor that is not designed for diving. Very dangerous.
Diving without training is worst than the weekend boaters.
Greg

Using the Nemo in tropical waters with out a BCR is one thing. Trying to use the Nemo in cold water while wearing a dry suit and heavy weights is quite another thing.

OldDan1943 said:

IMO, 10ft is not enough. Battery power, no thank you.

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Yes, 10' not enough. But nothing at all wrong with battery power. Much more reliable than ICE power. And it can't feed you the fumes, like an ICE can.

Beekeepergreg said:

Please don't use a compressor that is not designed for diving. Very dangerous.
Diving without training is worst than the weekend boaters.
Greg

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+1

Oil less compressors are easy to come by....


With a couple hours of surfing the web, there is an abundance of info on commercially made and homemade rigs/ equipment to make them.


Pro divers have joined in and described how they can be made/used safely.


Like most DIY projects described on TF (web in general)... due diligence is required when getting advice from the web.


Looking at some commercially made products, pretty apparent that they are assembled with equipment readily available to anyone....


Not ever having owned one, are there any kinds of certifications on the commercially produced ones?


Here's a link to a SCUBA site forum where a guy made a cheap Harbor Freight hooka and had the air tested as "breathable" but someone he knew at NASA. As usual....don't use "one" thread as gospel.

psneeld said:

Not ever having owned one, are there any kinds of certifications on the commercially produced ones?
.

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I am a certified diver. I have 2 full SCUBA rigs but none onboard at this time. (in the store room)
When I bought my Brownie Third Lung, I told the owner that I was certified.
His reaction was a bit disappointing. Certification/classes are not required to buy one. Sort of like buying a gun, "Here you are, have fun.", instead of,"we offer a lesson on how to use it, safely."
With a hose type dive rig, it should take a couple of hours of instruction.
For now, I have 4 tanks onboard, securely stowed on the upper deck and first and second stage hose rig.

Diving is not for everyone. If you are afraid or uncomfortable diving, dont buy or build a rig. Sadly, I dont think there are any "try before you buy" classes.
I will tell you, dragging that daymned hose behind you can really really get to be old.

My recommendation it to remain tethered to the boat. If you are out in the area where you cannot anchor and the boat drifts off, whatcha gonna do?

I didnt ask if YOU were certified....I asked if any hookas were.


If they are, I would be interested in the certification.

psneeld said:

I didnt ask if YOU were certified....I asked if any hookas were.


If they are, I would be interested in the certification.

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Okay. I'm stumped. I have not seen it stamped on the side. I do know there are depth limitations if you have one or two divers on the same compressor.
You can read all you want on the Brownie Third Lung sites. SMILE

https://www.browniedive.com/austral...um=cpc&utm_campaign=australiafreeshipping2020
Sorry, I could not be more helpful.
Try this too
https://www.browniedive.com/uploads/4/3/0/2/43021041/2005_elec150250seriesmanual_updated.pdf

OldDan1943 said:

Sorry, I could not be more helpful.

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Way off topic, but this struck me as funny. It means two totally different things whether or not you make use of the comma....

Reminded me of a sentence my English teacher gave us in middle school. It means something totally different if you place your emphasis on a different word each time through - seven completely different meanings from a single sentence:

"I never said he took the money".

Sorry for the diversion......

OldDan1943 said:

Okay. I'm stumped. I have not seen it stamped on the side. I do know there are depth limitations if you have one or two divers on the same compressor.
You can read all you want on the Brownie Third Lung sites. SMILE

https://www.browniedive.com/austral...um=cpc&utm_campaign=australiafreeshipping2020
Sorry, I could not be more helpful.
Try this too
https://www.browniedive.com/uploads/4/3/0/2/43021041/2005_elec150250seriesmanual_updated.pdf

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I do my homework long before I post....I couldn't find reference to certification on any hooka website...so my guess is they use similar oil less compressors that anyone can buy and use for a substantial saving (or may already own one).

OldDan1943 said:

Hint: pour some warm/hot water down the front and back of the suit. Dont have to wait for your body to warm the water next to your skin.

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Experienced divers usually use their own hot water.

The concepts you learn in a dive certification class are not difficult, but are CRITICAL. Lots of people think "Oh, I won't be going that deep.....I can snorkel to 15' so I'll be fine"

Its all about pressure changes, and those changes are much greater from 0-10 than from 90-100 feet. Scrubbing the bottom could reduce visibility to almost zero and it is very easy to get disoriented. Get certified.....or at least take a resort course, which is a half day lesson/dive that would give you the basics.

MYTraveler said:

Experienced divers usually use their own hot water.

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Absolutely,
Had to completely change my thinking and pre dive routine when I switched up to cold water diving in a dry suit!


As they always say, there are those who pee in their wet suits.. and those who lie about not peeing in their wet suits...
HOLLYWOOD

Benthic2 said:

The concepts you learn in a dive certification class are not difficult, but are CRITICAL. Lots of people think "Oh, I won't be going that deep.....I can snorkel to 15' so I'll be fine"

Its all about pressure changes, and those changes are much greater from 0-10 than from 90-100 feet. Scrubbing the bottom could reduce visibility to almost zero and it is very easy to get disoriented. Get certified.....or at least take a resort course, which is a half day lesson/dive that would give you the basics.

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Ideally, after the intro course on SCUBA diving, the instructor will spend an hour or 2 with you and your hookah rig.

tiltrider1 said:

Trying to use the Nemo in cold water while wearing a dry suit and heavy weights is quite another thing.

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Great way to get The Darwin Award. You need substantial weight for a dry suit, and bouyancy control is much more complicated......if you start to sink and your air is up on deck, it could end badly!

hollywood8118 said:

Absolutely,

As they always say, there are those who pee in their wet suits.. and those who lie about not peeing in their wet suits...
HOLLYWOOD

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Same thing about peeing in the shower.

OldDan1943 said:

Ideally, after the intro course on SCUBA diving, the instructor will spend an hour or 2 with you and your hookah rig.

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By the time you pay for the intro course and a few hours of private instruction, you are probably better off taking the full certification course.

Benthic2 said:

By the time you pay for the intro course and a few hours of private instruction, you are probably better off taking the full certification course.

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+1

There was a time when you could not get a tank refill unless you were certified.

psneeld said:

I do my homework long before I post....I couldn't find reference to certification on any hooka website...so my guess is they use similar oil less compressors that anyone can buy and use for a substantial saving (or may already own one).

Click to expand...

I don't think there is a certification process or specification. The Seabreathe is high quality components, but the compressor itself is simply an industrial oilless diaphragm compressor that they have hard anodized for corrosion resistance. It could be duplicated for probably half the cost, using lower quality components.

There are air standards and I believe Dive Shops are required to have their air tested periodically to maintain their affiliation with the SCUBA Certification agencies. OSHA and NOAA both stipulate that air for diving should be CGA Grade E, which specifies Oxygen, moisture, CO, CO2, & Hydrocarbon levels and probably a few other things.