tanks levels and tips haul out

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timb

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Sep 12, 2017
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572
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usa
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true heading
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marine trader 38 dc
my first haul out is there any weight concerns from having water tanks and or fuel tanks full when lifting and blocking the boat .also any thing I might be forgetting to check while out . I hope to do this every 4 to 5 years . thanks
 
Hi Tim,
I have hauled out many times with full tanks and had no issues, so from my experience it should be fine if the boat is blocked properly.
Some tips I posted from another haul out enquiry:
"Before painting underwater metal, check for incompatibilities. For example, it is usually not recommended to paint copper based anti fouling directly on metal (like rudders). There are metal specific paints (like Trilux and an undercoat) or you can undercoat with a barrier such as Interprotect then use the regular anti fouling. You are trying to avoid any "reaction" between the metal of the rudder and the copper in the anti fouling. So, it also depends on what anti fouling you would be using. Growth around my area is much less than in say Florida. Many around here use a zinc based paint on the prop and running gear. The downside, it only lasts (less than) a year, but it does slow down growth while it lasts. Some use an expensive product called "prop speed" but that also requires a very specific application method. Some users rave about this product, some say not worth it. It will not last 4 years either.

Other things to check are: play in your prop shaft (condition of cutlass bearing), visual of prop looking for any damage or dezincification, checking,cleaning, and lubing through hulls, servicing bow thruster (stern if have), change zincs, clean, polish, and wax hull, and of course, repainting the anti fouling as needed. Ensure you use the same paint or that the paint you are going to use is compatible with the existing paint, otherwise you could experience adhesion problems.

Depending on your boat and it's systems , there may be more to do and check, but that is a start and applies to a lot of boats."
During haul out, it is also a good time to replace any seals that could need it, like rudder seal, dripless shaft seal, etc.

Good luck.

__
 
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I try to run my water and fuel down to about half. I have hauled with full tanks but prefer not to. THe boat is up to it but I simply do not like it.

I also leave the dinghy at home dock as it will be in the way of easy access.
 
My normal winter haul is no water, but full fuel. Not having all of that weight aft would be nice, but having the tanks full to avoid condensation is more important.
 
We, of course, drain water tanks when we winterize. However the fuel ends up wherever it happens to be. Never had an issue with water in the tanks after being half full all winter.
 
thanks for the replies this is not for winterization it's a paint inspect and return to the water hopefully back in before a hard freeze.
I have a 1.5 inch thru hull that is not in use that also squeaks when operated . I may remove it and have the hole plugged .
what is best way to lube the thru hulls? the 1-1/2 look like proper thru hulls. 32 years old work good but I don't see the plug to install a grease fitting. the 3/4 look like ball valves .
also my laz hatch drains are always stopping up they are only 1/2" I am thinking of going to 1" or 1-1/2" at what size does dirt and small wind blown stuff not stop up drains?
 
If your boat has 2000 gallon capacity you might not want to come out full tanks. If your boat is made of wood you might Not want to come out at full full tanks.
 
If the yard normally uses narrow width lift straps on their travel lift, I ask them to switch to their double strap arrangement at the aft lift point (where the greatest mass tends to be located). This is most common for facilities with smaller lift machines such as the 25 ton unit at our current yard. The 50 ton and greater lifts tend to come with wider straps to begin with.

If your boat gets transferred to a hydraulic lift trailer for transport to the blocking area, I recommend that you read my attached post about trailers. Pad (versus keel) lift trailers can impose dangerous overloads on the hull structure and they demand that the trailer operators understand weight distribution and the structural design of the hull. Since they never do and never take the time to investigate...it's up to you. I personally will not allow my boat to be put on a pad lift trailer. They either move it to the blocking area on the travel lift, or I go elsewhere.

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/large-hydraulic-boatyard-trailer-tutorial-53964.html
 
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. I hope to do this every 4 to 5 years . thanks

That's quite a stretch of time between haul outs. Bottom paint lasts 2-3 years at the most in my area. Zincs may last 2 years. Some warm water areas require yearly haul out.
 
If you have reverse cycle air, close the seacock for it before haul out to keep it primed.
 
thanks everyone getting ready to leave work for a full day of car and boat operating hope to be at the boat yard by dark and pull in the morning.
I'll try to get the weight .
watch out for the lift trailer. I don't think they have one
my paint is 6 years old and the diver checks zincs and cleans bottom every two months he just started giving the paint a bad score 2 months ago.
my front ac may prime it's self that rear one is tough.so I'll close valves .
thanks again everyone
 
" tips haul out "

The best tip is a box of a dozen donuts before the day starts the day you want to launch.
 
If However the fuel ends up wherever it happens to be. Never had an issue with water in the tanks after being half full all winter.
Me either. (In 24 years.):blush:
 
Sorry, I will retract. I missed that you are likely talking about the winter haul out and storage.
I was referring to the annual/biannual maintenance haul out. Different considerations for many items and many of mine don't apply.
 

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