Marine Hot Water Tank

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Phase3

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Messages
57
Location
Canada
Vessel Name
Phase III
Vessel Make
Mariner 35' Seville
Well it is time for a new hot water tank as well as relocating the new tank into the engine room instead of the lazarette in order to retain more heat. What are the brands out there on the forum that people are happy with.
For the sake of room, we are considering 11 gals (same as before) or going a little larger.
Brands we are looking at are;
- Raritan - steel tank.... Is this a concern?
- Isotherm
- Quick Nautical Equipment
- Sigmar
A circular tank that can mount vertically would best fit the space.

Thanks everyone

Brent
 
Just did a quick search for them and found this one. Quick Nautic Boiler B3 4012SL 11 Gal 1200W w/Heat Exchanger [FLB34012SLV0C01] I don’t know anything about it but it has a 319 S/S tank and a heat exchanger. Says it can be mounted vertically or horizontally. Might give it a look. I like the 316 tank.
 
I had a look at this one. On Practical Sailor water heater test it ranked #1. I agree, a stainless tank is the best option.
Thanks!

Brent
 
I like the 316 vs say a 304 S/S. The price is comparable to the Raritan with the glass coated steel tank.
 
The big potential advantage of the Raritan is parts are available as it is made in the US which can be a bonus.
Does anyone out there have any experience with Raritan? Not many Google reviews
 
We put a Raritan in a friends boat a couple of years ago but then he sold the boat so really don’t have any long term usage with it.
 
I replaced my Hot water tank a couple of years ago. The old one was a Torrid, and it lasted a long time, 20 years. This is the thread discussing possible repair.
https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s31/repair-torrid-20-gal-hot-water-tank-41870.html

They have excellent customer service and you should consider them given your location. They aren't available here in Australia. So I went with a Raritan. I regard it as a good brand also.
 
Thanks Brian for the information. Thank you. Tried following the link and it produced an error. Forum also doesn't have a "search" bar that I can find.

Brent
 
Thanks Brian for the information. Thank you. Tried following the link and it produced an error. Forum also doesn't have a "search" bar that I can find.

Brent

I just checked the link, and it worked for me!

If you are on a computer (rather than phone or tablet, which may be different) then Search is easy. It is in the horizontal coloured banner near the top of the page. Click Search, choose Advanced Search and enter Torrid and it will bring up quite a few threads.
 
Brian. Just had a read of your post on your old Torrid. Great post. Obviously I was looking with a wrong chromosome as my wife would say. Search button very easy to find...
So you're in favour of Torrid. What did you end up replacing it with?
 
Definitely not a bad idea to get a couple anodes. We change our house HWT anodes every 2 years.
Thanks
Brent
 
I have a 12 gal. Raritan and I think it can claim to be long lived. Original to the boat and the boat is 43 yrs old and climbing.
 
Brian. Just had a read of your post on your old Torrid. Great post. Obviously I was looking with a wrong chromosome as my wife would say. Search button very easy to find...
So you're in favour of Torrid. What did you end up replacing it with?

I replaced with a Raritan, mostly because it had a very similar size and shape and could thus be installed with minimal other changes.

Some folks have commented on anodes, and it is a valid consideration. Part of the problem with my old Torrid was that the long anode was inserted via the top of the tank, and there was insufficient room above the tank in my ER to be able to do it. Design has likely changed by now, but its something else to keep in mind
 
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C lectric, thats a healthy claim in favour of Raritan.
Brian, I think you're correct. The post you did mentions that Torrid has in fact moved the anode to the side which makes sense.
 
I installed a Torrid to replace a Seaward. I like it a lot so far. Seems very well built and is a local WA company too. They sell them at Fisheries.
 
We have a 15yo Raritan. Thought it was cactus recently, but it was just the wiring adjacent to the tank.
 
I replaced with a Raritan, mostly because it had a very similar size and shape and could thus be installed with minimal other changes.

Some folks have commented on anodes, and it is a valid consideration. Part of the problem with my old Torrid was that the long anode was inserted via the top of the tank, and there was insufficient room above the tank in my ER to be able to do it. Design has likely changed by now, but its something else to keep in mind

Interesting thread, thanks for the input Brian.
I have a 30 year old Torrid, 17 gal version. I noticed another poster mentioning the 1/2” air gap below and the pressure relief valve with a drain hose to bilge, which are on mine.
I’m still assuming the old unit is on borrowed time.....
 
Have a Seaward that is at least 16 yrs. old. Not even sure if it has anodes. We use it for 4-5 months solid every year and then drain it for the winter.

Tator
 
Ok, I'll be the oddball. :ermm:

We went with the Isotemp Spa 40 (11 gal) on NWD. At the time what interested me was the bulkhead mounting options, 316 stainless tank, plastic (non corroding) exterior shell with good foam insulation, included mixing valve and factory installed 750w heating element.

I wanted to mount the water heater in some basically useless (for anything else) space between one end of our generator and a fuel tank enclosure, but it would need to be high up so as to keep access to a couple through hulls easy. A tank such as the ISO Spa would allow this mounting - horizontal on a bulkhead. It DOES mount vertically, but only on a bulkhead with the fittings down. The instructions say it can't be mounted "fittings up" for some reason. Possible disadvantage for the OP.

The exterior shell just makes sense to me as its one less thing to corrode. It basically has to support the mounts and enclose the foam insulation, so I think its suited to its purpose. We routinely see hot water suitable for showers a full 24 hrs later here in the PNW. Our engine room typically stays around 60 degrees or less once the engine heat has dissipated - up to 70 degrees if its hot and sunny out.
We do go through hot water a lot faster than I'd like, but I think the biggest problem with that is a LONG copper pipe run through the bilge area, so there's a lot of wasted water waiting for the hot to get to the shower, then a lot of heat loss through the copper pipe along the way - its not insulated. An upcoming major project will be new freshwater plumbing throughout, and I'm thinking PEX might hold heat a little better. The other problem is the Admiral and I are not as efficient in taking Navy showers as we could be...

The included mixing valve is a very nice feature; saving me from having to buy separate. The port engine heats the water up past 165 or so, and the heater is set to 160 F, so having the mixing valve is both safe and helps extend the water (having it way hot then mixing with cold makes it go farther.)

One feature I am second guessing is the heating element wattage. I originally wanted the 750W element to help keep from overloading our generator - charging batteries full bore plus heating water full bore (many other hot water heaters in the 11 gal range use 1200-1500 watt elements.) As it turns out, my 7.5 Onan has more than enough umph to do both the higher wattage element and our Magnum battery charger even when on full bulk charging. ISO has the 1500 watt element as an option, and I'm thinking of swapping to it. If we have run the hot water all the way down near ambient, it would take 3 1/2 - 4 hrs to get it fully heated. (calculate the BTU required to raise 11 gal from 70 or 75 to 160 degrees, then how long it takes to get that many BTU's at 750 watts....) I will almost* only ever let it run until the batteries are getting past the point of efficient charging with the generator, so maybe 2 to 2 1/2 hours max in a day.

(* I admit to running the genny only to make hot water a few times, after it was all inadvertently used or the breaker off :facepalm: when the genny was running for the batteries. The Admiral WILL have showers on board, and they WILL NOT be cold ones. Aye Aye ma'am! :pirate: )

If you will find yourself making hot water on the generator, consider making sure whichever heater you choose has the heating element to support it in a way that works for your AC power availability.

I can make no claims about its long term life, as I've only had it for two years now. In my reading of reviews (in Practical Sailor and looking for issues in forums) I didn't find anything that led me to believe its short lifespan heater. It has the same warranty (5 yrs) as Torrid. The price was very reasonable, I want to say under $600 before tax.

All that said, I am somewhat ashamed for not buying the locally make Torrid, it goes against a lot of what I try to practice for doing business with good local trades and other businesses.
 
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I don’t think that I would want only a 750 watt element.
 
I don’t think that I would want only a 750 watt element.

Agreed.

I thought I did, but didn't do those calculations to understand how much generator time heating 11 gallons at 750 watts would take. Its a big deal when we end up anchored for more than a day; if we are moving we make hot water free from engine heat.

When I made that wattage decision I was not educated enough about the amperage my generator can make + the best practice of giving it a good load. Had I known better I would have got the 1500 watt element from the start. I was wanting to keep the load down more than I should have.

Now that work and school will have us only doing weekend trips for the off season, I will probably make it a late winter/early spring project to buy the hotter element for next year's cruising season.
 
The service life of most HW heaters is caused by the inside metal tank , leaking.

Marathon makes heaters that have plastic liners , and are guaranteed for "ever".

Smallest is about 30 gallon , and its not small as it is super thick foam insulated.

Claimed 5 deg F temp loss in 24 hours. For engine operation the off grid folks have heat exchangers that fit in the T&P valve opening.
 
I have a Raritan 20 gal in my sailboat, I've had the boat 15 years and no idea when the PO installed it. No problems with it at all. We're in fresh water but the boat came from salt originally.
 
Another satisfied Torrid user.
40 yrs and counting.
I leave it on at all times that the boat is plugged in or on the generator. In winter, it helps keep the ER frost free. The other heat source in my ER in winter is the charger. Good so long as the marina has power.
 
Thanks everyone for the input. Tator, I hadn't heard of Seaward, so I'll have a look into it as well. Could be a runner along with Torrid and Raritan. Good to have solid choices, so that the likely hood of it fitting in a place we have planned in the engine room is reasonable.
The fellow doing the work will also be installing a stainless valve manifold so that we can produce hot water when on the hook using our Espar heater (previous thread ).
Not sure why, on our boat, that the HWH was placed in the lazarette by the factory, as it is always cooler there than the engine room. Moving it into the ER will help a lot I would think in retaining the heat.
 
So you don't have a heat exchange loop from your engine?

Our new boat does not, and I thought I'd hate that. Made plans to change it out as soon as was convenient.

But after the full season and almost 300 hours of running, I see no urgency. The 11 gallon tank stays hot for a LONG time, and it quickly reheats once we connect to shore power or run the gen (for breakfast coffee for example). It's never been an issue at all.

If I replace it, I'll likely buy a model that has an HX loop, but I'm definitely not rushing out to spend a boat buck on that problem.
BD
 

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