Anti freeze additive

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cbouch

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I was wondering if anyone uses a product like prestone anti rust inhibitor and water pump additive? It does not contain stop leak just anti rust and lubricants..
 
I was wondering if anyone uses a product like prestone anti rust inhibitor and water pump additive? It does not contain stop leak just anti rust and lubricants..
What you describe looks to already be there in prestone antifreeze so what is the need to add more?

L
 
Proper engine antifreeze already has rust inhibitors and such in it. No reason that I know of to add more.
 
MAC’s 13
It’s a lubricant. It actually has oil in the additive. You add it to your coolant.
Perhaps it’s pre-ilmulsified (sorry the spell) but it’s oil and it probably lubricates the pump bearing but one needs to not put too much in the coolant ... like I did. Follow the directions and ditch any notions of some is good more is better.
It will become a big mess w too much.
 
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Supposedly the antitrust additives in pristine wear out so that is why they say to replace it every few years. So why do that if you can just replace the additive??
 
Supposedly the antitrust additives in pristine wear out so that is why they say to replace it every few years. So why do that if you can just replace the additive??

"So why do that if you can just replace the additive?"
Contaminants and breakdown of existing additive package can coat the insides of the cooling system adding a layer of insulation exactly where you want heat tranfer to occurr. Removing old coolant and replacing with an adequate mix is cheap insurance against this buildup - in some cases flushing agents used before the new coolant is added is also required.
 
You can do antifreeze testing to determine when an additive top-up is needed, but it's rare on smaller engines. Typically it's only cost effective when the system holds many gallons.
 
IF antifreeze protection is not required where you boat , 100% distilled water , with water pump lube works fine.

But it too must be changed out every so often.

Cost is not the big advantage engine cooling is .

Antifreeze only has 5/8 the heat transfer ability of water , cars use high pressure caps (15-18PSI) to overcome this, but most old boats have 2 or 3 PSI cooling systems .

In Fl we use 1/3 antifreeze 2/3 distilled water and a can of WP lube .
 
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Yes, less antifreeze can make sense in conditions where you're pushing the outside temperature limits of the cooling system. Once you get down to a low enough amount, then adding corrosion inhibitor is necessary.
 
IF antifreeze protection is not required where you boat , 100% distilled water , with water pump lube works fine.

But it too must be changed out every so often.

Cost is not the big advantage engine cooling is .

Antifreeze only has 5/8 the heat transfer ability of water , cars use high pressure caps (15-18PSI) to overcome this, but most old boats have 2 or 3 PSI cooling systems .

In Fl we use 1/3 antifreeze 2/3 distilled water and a can of WP lube .

"In Fl we use 1/3 antifreeze 2/3 distilled water and a can of WP lube ."

Interesting - when used in vehicles not intended to see freeze conditions we always used softened water and avoided DI water when used with a lube/additive non coolant package.

https://www.hyperlube.com/blog/blog/why-you-should-never-use-distilled-water-in-your-cooling-system/
 
Supposedly the antitrust additives in pristine wear out so that is why they say to replace it every few years. So why do that if you can just replace the additive??


Its important to flush out the cooling system every few years, so replacing the antifreeze with fresh while you're there does it all at once.



Ken
 

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