Tips on Head Replacement

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BDofMSP

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Sep 5, 2013
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Location
USA
Vessel Name
Gopher Broke
Vessel Make
Silverton 410 Sport Bridge
I'll start this by stating that I know the answer is "get Peggy's book". I know. I did purchase it in advance of this project, but it has not shipped quickly and won't be here until next week - and the install is this weekend.

I will be replacing my current Jabsco Quiet Flush with a Raritan Marine Elegance, using Raritan Saniflex 1 1/2" hose. I'm also removing the tee in the discharge line and the overboard discharge macerator itself (which leaks) and capping off the seacock. There is nowhere within 1000 miles of here where it's legal to discharge overboard and I'd rather have the simplicity.

I've only got about a 10 foot run from the head to the tank with no bends that should be a problem for Saniflex. Just looking for any tips on how to best manage the job to minimize spills, make the removal process easier, and making sure the new runs are as trouble free as possible.

Thanks!
BD
 
I'd push some water through everything before pulling it apart. That'll make sure any spilled fluid is as un-nasty as possible. For the new hose runs, if they have to go up anywhere, do it as close to the toilet as possible. And then slope down steadily from there to the tank, making sure there are no low spots in the line where stuff can collect.
 
I did this last winter, upgrading from Raritan Crown to their SeaEra heads including all water and discharge lines. The project itself was straightforward but progressed slowly, mainly because of my slow pace of work. I've used the new heads a lot this season and I'm completely happy with the upgrade. My biggest headache was removing and replacing the 1 1/2" Saniflex discharge lines which are under the floor boards and must pass between the floor beams and stringers with very little clearance and very poor access. I was lucky that all the old lines were empty and dry, so no mess. I also capped the holding tank port from one of the heads and put in a new one with a straighter hose run from the toilet to the tank. As mentioned above, pay particular attention to maintaining a slope from the toilet to the tank so there are no dips or possible collection points for the discharge. I earned a lot of points with my wife with this upgrade.
 
Last edited:
When I had the lines replaced on our boat with the 1.5 saniflex, the guys put a hose barb between the old and new, used twisted wire instead of clamps, and pulled it through cutting off a foot or so of the old hose at a time.
Second on the Marine Elegance.
JohnS
 
Thanks much. BTW what do you cut Saniflex with? A hacksaw?
 
And just like that, my shipment of Peggy's book delivered! It wasn't scheduled until Monday. I'm sure she pulled some TF strings behind the scenes for me ... :lol:

BD
 
Glad your copy of my book arrived, but unfortunately you won't find the answer you're looking for in it 'cuz there are a couple of things that somehow were left out of the "revised and expanded" edition of my book, although they were in the manuscript. "Replacing hoses" is one of em. So here it is:


Flush a LOT of water through the system before you begin.

Start with the highest connections first.

Warming the old hoses a bit (I always used a blow dryer) will make them easier to get off the fittings.
Put a plastic waste basket liner under each connection to catch any spills.
Warming the hose also makes it easier to get the new hose onto the fittings. Lubricate the inside of the hose and the outside of the fitting with a little K-Y...it's a water soluble surgical jelly that dries out and is also much slipperier than dishwashing liquid.
And I'm sure you already know that all hose connections should be double clamped, with screws 180 degrees apart...or at least 90 degrees if access makes 180 impossible.


--Peggie
 
Whenever I am replacing head hoses I first flush them with a lot of fresh water and then as soon as I unhook them I screw a bunch of paper towels into the open end to trap anything that may still be in the hose. If possible use the old hose to pull the new hose if it goes behind places you can’t get to. Good luck and have fun!
 
HeadMistress said:
Glad your copy of my book arrived, but unfortunately you won't find the answer you're looking for in it 'cuz there are a couple of things that somehow were left out of the "revised and expanded" edition of my book, although they were in the manuscript. "Replacing hoses" is one of em. So here it is:


Flush a LOT of water through the system before you begin.

Start with the highest connections first.

Warming the old hoses a bit (I always used a blow dryer) will make them easier to get off the fittings.
Put a plastic waste basket liner under each connection to catch any spills.
Warming the hose also makes it easier to get the new hose onto the fittings. Lubricate the inside of the hose and the outside of the fitting with a little K-Y...it's a water soluble surgical jelly that dries out and is also much slipperier than dishwashing liquid.
And I'm sure you already know that all hose connections should be double clamped, with screws 180 degrees apart...or at least 90 degrees if access makes 180 impossible.


--Peggie
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips. The waste basket liner is something I hadn't thought of. All connections will be double clamped although I'll be closer to 90 than 180 on the offset.

While I'm not looking forward to this in the least, I AM looking forward to the results. Eliminating potential waste issues is a huge priority for us, especially since we're entertaining a lot of guests. The M.E. smart controller will be a huge bonus in that area, not to mention that the current Jabsco only has a 1" hose coming out of it, and it has a moderate kink in it where it bends to enter the floor. Glad to be getting rid of those flaws.

BD
 
One other question. This tank, sadly, does not have a dip tube discharge, and there's no room to install one. Instead it just runs out the fitting at the bottom of the side of the tank.

This is the reason the macerator rusted out - it was constantly full of waste. My question is, once I remove that and have a straight run to the pump out fitting, shouldn't I run that hose higher than the tank ASAP to reduce the amount of hose that's sitting full of effluent all the time?

Thanks,
BD
 
A lot of people solve that problem by using hard pvc from the tank discharge fitting to the top of the tank, then switching to hose the rest of the way to the deck pumpout fitting.


A very sharp serrated knife makes a great hose cutter. Cheap kitchen knives from Walmart are quite sharp when new.



--Peggie
 
Thanks. The hole through the bulkhead is straight out from the outlet fitting. I might need to come up on the other side of that bulkhead due to clearance, but that shouldn't matter. I'll measure it Thursday when I get back. Like that idea a LOT.

BD
 
For the record I'm now the proud owner of a successfully installed Marine Elegance head. We faced basically an obstacle in almost every single step in the installation, but at least 70% of them were due to a manufacturer that did NOTHING to enable maintenance. Having all your wiring and hoses well supported? Kudos! Having every one of those supports buried with zero access panels? I want to throat chop that guy.

Anyway, after hiring the dock kid who weighs 110 soaking wet to squeeze between the wall and the hull we were able to complete the mission. Very proud to say that there was only one drip, freshwater, and on a fitting that Raritan had assembled.

Of course, I haven't pumped out yet so the "best" may be yet to come...

Glad to have done it and hope I'll NEVER do it again.

BD

PS - thanks to all, especially Peggy for the tips. This install is SO much better because of your input.
 
Any physical mounting/pedestal issues with replacement of the Jabsco bowl itself with the Raritan bowl?

We had pretty good luck with our original Quiet Flush... but I always wondered whether the Raritan ME would be easy -- or a major pain in the neck -- as a replacement... and sort of assumed replacement, if necessary, with another QF would more likely be less painful.

-Chris
 
Physically mounting the head itself was no big deal. We reused the front stud from the QF and used the two provided lag screws into pilot holes for the other two.

However our attempt to reuse the existing discharge hole failed (required too sharp a bend to connect to the toilet) and drilling a new hole in the prescribed location wouldn't work either, as you could never get the hose up to it (since you HAVE to use the existing hose to pull the new hose through). We ended up "extending" the existing hole to make a 4" x 2" rectangle, and we'll craft some sort of cover for it to pretty it up. BTW we also had to remove the carpet in the hallway and create a new access panel in the floor even to pull the new hose.

The impossible part is running the wiring to the controller. Even after disassembling the entire undersink cabinet, we still had to get that kid to crawl between the wall and the hull to pull it for us.

BD
 
Been there, done that. The RME has worked flawlessly for 5 seasons. I, too, did away with the macerator and repurposed the through hull. I bought and installed Raritan's raw water pump and switch but have never used it. Fishing hoses was no big deal; removing the old ones was a PIA.

The two major problems were making a new fiberglass base and 'back splash', and re-jiggering the supply and discharge hose connections to the ME so that they aim sideways instead of down (they still remain concealed).
 
BDofMSP said:
Physically mounting the head itself was no big deal. We reused the front stud from the QF and used the two provided lag screws into pilot holes for the other two.

However our attempt to reuse the existing discharge hole failed (required too sharp a bend to connect to the toilet) and drilling a new hole in the prescribed location wouldn't work either, as you could never get the hose up to it (since you HAVE to use the existing hose to pull the new hose through). We ended up "extending" the existing hole to make a 4" x 2" rectangle, and we'll craft some sort of cover for it to pretty it up. BTW we also had to remove the carpet in the hallway and create a new access panel in the floor even to pull the new hose.

The impossible part is running the wiring to the controller. Even after disassembling the entire undersink cabinet, we still had to get that kid to crawl between the wall and the hull to pull it for us.

BD
Click to expand...


Thanks. Tends to confirm my opinion that a new QF would have been easier... and sufficient for our purposes...

-Chris
 
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