Which design for windlass platform?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

BrianG

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
290
Location
United States
:)I'm fabricating a stainless windlass platform from #316 1/4" stock. attachment points are 4x4 Samson post and a 4x4 at the front of the bow. I will also have some outrigger straps laterally to the port and starboard 4x4 stringers.
Question: I can make the platform 90 degrees to the Samson Post and bow 4x4 or, follow the graceful contour of the bow and deck and slope the stainless platform. The latter seems potentially more aesthetic the former possibly stronger? Advice sought. Thanks in advance. ps please don't make fun of my artistic "masterpiece".
 

Attachments

  • img047.jpg
    img047.jpg
    70 KB · Views: 28
Last edited:
It's not clear whether you're windlass is vertical or horizontal. Your design choices would effect a vertical windlass as the chain needs to be pulled in perpendicular to the windlass shaft.

Ted
 
For a horizontal windlass, it shouldn't matter unless the angle is enough that the chain snags on the sides of the hole feeding into the locker. The 90* (or a slight angle) might be better for that.
 
Either will work. My preference is for the first as some additional strength can be gained by tying the platform into the bow.

Ted
 
This may or may not help. Mine is parallel to platform I had an electric vertical to begin with that played out. While I was in the process of rebuilt cap rail and platform I added a horizontal manual windlass. I found this one cheap and rebuilt it.

I added a bulkhead about 18” aft of chain locker, built a platform that tied the bulkhead and chain locker together. The bulkhead is up off the deck a little with pads and it has a drain pocket on each side that drains toward large suppers aft.

This gives us a good place to rinse off anchor line and chain and let it dry. We do have to feed the chain and line back into chain locker by hand when we want it stored. We anchor in 10’ water most of time, so not to big of a deal .
 

Attachments

  • 10A806F8-C720-43DA-BDC5-8451201BBC89.jpg
    10A806F8-C720-43DA-BDC5-8451201BBC89.jpg
    154.4 KB · Views: 21
My non-mechanical-engineering opinion is that the difference in strength between the two, given all else, is probably in the weeds.

So my non-mechanical-engineering opinion is to go with what looks good to you. :thumb:

[BTW, love the Nemo annotation!]:D
 
In your drawing, is the bow rise actually similar to the drawing? If it is, I think the chain should be at as close to a 90 degree angle to the windlass as possible. It doesn't have to be exactly 90 degrees but keep it close to that.
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2020-08-11 at 6.41.31 AM.jpg
    Screen Shot 2020-08-11 at 6.41.31 AM.jpg
    112 KB · Views: 19
In your drawing, is the bow rise actually similar to the drawing? If it is, I think the chain should be at as close to a 90 degree angle to the windlass as possible. It doesn't have to be exactly 90 degrees but keep it close to that.
my drawing is exaggerated. it's the boat in my avatar. Monterey Trawler
 
This may or may not help. Mine is parallel to platform I had an electric vertical to begin with that played out. While I was in the process of rebuilt cap rail and platform I added a horizontal manual windlass. I found this one cheap and rebuilt it.

I added a bulkhead about 18” aft of chain locker, built a platform that tied the bulkhead and chain locker together. The bulkhead is up off the deck a little with pads and it has a drain pocket on each side that drains toward large suppers aft.

This gives us a good place to rinse off anchor line and chain and let it dry. We do have to feed the chain and line back into chain locker by hand when we want it stored. We anchor in 10’ water most of time, so not to big of a deal .
Nice work
 
What I did three boats ago.

Rob
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0063.jpg
    IMG_0063.jpg
    177 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_0197.jpg
    IMG_0197.jpg
    76.6 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_0277.jpg
    IMG_0277.jpg
    116.1 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_0284.jpg
    IMG_0284.jpg
    116 KB · Views: 20
Is the platform attached to the stem?
Structurally that’s not ideal IMO.
The side loads can be high in rough weather. The stem is a major major part of the bow structure and attaching the windlass to the deck is preferable. Repair would be far simpler.
In your dwgs would the loads be taken by both the stem and the Samson post?
Isn’t your boat a troller?
 
Last edited:
Here's how I did it years ago.

I believe the horizontal gypsy requires a 90* wrap to avoid slippage. Your windlass manufacturer should be able to provide info for you if this is essential.
 

Attachments

  • Pulpit.jpg
    Pulpit.jpg
    59.8 KB · Views: 19
  • pulpit base.jpg
    pulpit base.jpg
    39 KB · Views: 19
I would favor #1. Windlass loads are high so whichever plan gives you the most secure attachment of the windlass. With a vertical windlass, the chain run from the Gypsy to the bow roller must be perpendicular to the Gypsy axis. Be sure to select the anchor you are going to use before you build. The shank length can surprise you! With bigger/longer anchors, the long shank comes over the roller at a 30+ degree angle just as it stows. This pulled the chain off the Gypsy regularly on my vertical Maxwell when I upgraded to a 99lb spade from stock 55lb Lexmark. I fixed the problem with a custom inverted SS U bolt to keep the chain pull in line with the Gypsy.
My point being to measure the angles, heights & lengths carefully before you build. Having the actual anchor, chain, windlass & (chain lock) on hand will make the build more successful.
 
Back
Top Bottom