Survey (mostly) complete: Issues found.

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bligh

Guru
Joined
May 29, 2013
Messages
1,531
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Concerto
Vessel Make
1980 Cheoy Lee
Ok our survey is mostly complete. I am still waiting for the oil samples and mechanical survey to complete.

While i do not have the written reports, here is the list of the conclusions I can remember from the surveyor, the mechanic and the rigger.


During the sea trial the glendining controls briefly went offline for 20-30 seconds and then came back on line. This was an observation by my father in law during operation of the vessel. I was not present. The vessel does have the original cable controls that can be reconnected to the engines and transmissions.



Minor leak at the fuel tank inspection port.


Corrosion noted at a connection to the day fuel tank.


Leaking seal on starboard stabilizer. Corrosion also noted inside housing for post from an unknown part of the stabilizer. (the port stabilizer was replaced 2 years ago (or less)


The engines would only make 2500 RPM at 9 knots or so. The mechanic thinks the boat is over propped. The surveyor thinks the boat is overpropped. Others think the boat is overpropped. its a 52' (unsure of waterline length) 80,000lb displacement hull with twin lehman 135s and 3 bladed 24x17 props. Can anyone comment as to how much i need to repitch the props and how much that would cost? Or am I looking at new props? Or should I not worry about it? My thinking is that the engines should make full power even if full power is only needed occasionally during an emergency maneuver. and how much power difference is there between 2400 rpm and 2800 on an old FL135?


The mechanic thinks the engines need to be aligned. The surveyor noted the same thing as the propellers would not turn easily.


During delivery of the boat to the boat yard, the stbd engine needed to be shut down due to a failed water pump cooling the stabilizer hydraulic fluid. The deliver captain located the issue sand has a repair in progress for it.


The stbd engine hour meter is not working . the port engine has 2500 hours on it, but also does not run the stabilizers.


All the waste hoses need to be replaced as they are crystallized on the outside


The domestic water piping could use replacement soon (my own observation)


the inverter is stuffed in a locker with the house bank (six 6 volt) without good ventilation or access. wires were noted to be 40 degrees over ambient temperature. (check cable size and install vents in locker)


Last but worst is the pilothouse roof is de-laminated and has about 50% moisture content. It's quite spongy. The previous owner/delivery captain (not to be confused with the seller, said it was that way the entire time he owned it ,although he never volunteered that information anytime before the surveyor discovered it. The deck is about 11x11 ft. I asked the surveyor for a number to repair it and he made a call and the answer was 15-20k


There is of course a list of minor things that consist of an hour task here or there that i cant quite recall, but I am familiar enough with boats to know that this fairly normal maintenance issues.



The surveyor and his assistant were quite thorough and opened every compartment and tested every system they could.


I was thinking I should give the entire list of issues (which I dont have yet) to the broker and see what he says. Between the 2 major items (roof and stabilizer) i think we are talking about 25 grand or more. I know used boats have problems, but I was not make aware of aware of these issues before I made my offer, and my contract says i am released if not satisfied by the surveys


Can anyone comment on the best way I can approach this to have the most fair outcome for both the seller and myself?
Thanks
Scott
 
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Can anyone comment on the best way I can approach this to have the most fair outcome for both the seller and myself?
Thanks
Scott

Well you have a decision to make.

Do you like it enough that you are willing to have a project boat for the next few years (and remember the surveys won't catch everything) or are you at the tipping point of walking away? Just don't let the money you have already spent on the surveys be your decision maker.

If you feel you still want the boat then you may want to negotiate for a little more time to respond to the buyer after survey. The reason being you need to get fair and reasonable estimates on the work.

The company you used on the engine surveys should be able to estimate that work. You may need to ask a yard to go in and estimate as much as they can on the hull and other jobs.

The delamination (and perhaps some others) are going to be SWAGs.

So get the estimates and then add in a safety buffer for the work costing more (as it always does) plus what the surveys did not find. Take that off your original offer and revise the offer price.

Again, only if you are sure you want to go ahead.

Boats are not the same as houses where its location, location, location. You can move a boat and there will be others out there.

In the final analysis it is your call. It is not without risk. All you can do is lessen the risk with a good post-survey offer.
 
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I think that engine is rated at 2500, so if it made 2500 it is in the ballpark. This is not like a planing hull where you need to reach rated plus 50 to 100rpm. On a displacement hull if you pull it back 400-500 turns it is still loaded in a happy spot. Planing hulls I get picky on full load rpm. Not so much on hull speed boats. Unless you plan on running it near full power, which most do not.
 
I suggest waiting until you have the written reports. As "pen goes to paper/fingers hit keys" and the story emerges in print, the writer may revise conclusions and advice. Check time limits to reject the boat, you don`t want that expiring while you gather information reports.
 
Did I miss type of boat, age, location, and general valuation? I feel like I walked into the middle of a movie.
 
Without knowing what manufacturer, size, and contract price, it's hard to comment. On a million dollar boat, you're talking 5 to 10%. On a hundred thousand dollar boat, probably time to start walking as the owner isn't likely taking 50 cents on the dollar.

Ted
 
I think that engine is rated at 2500, so if it made 2500 it is in the ballpark. This is not like a planing hull where you need to reach rated plus 50 to 100rpm.

135 is rated at 2600. I would wait until engine is aligned or shafts straightened or struts replaced before making any prop decisions. If the shafts aren't turning freely then you aren't going to hit 2600.

Bigger issue is the core. It will have to be replaced. If it is already spongy then it's overdue. I would either ask for extension to get detailed estimates or cancel the offer. I wouldn't proceed with WAG's.
 
135 is rated at 2600. I would wait until engine is aligned or shafts straightened or struts replaced before making any prop decisions. If the shafts aren't turning freely then you aren't going to hit 2600.



Bigger issue is the core. It will have to be replaced. If it is already spongy then it's overdue. I would either ask for extension to get detailed estimates or cancel the offer. I wouldn't proceed with WAG's.



What is a WAG?
 
I think that engine is rated at 2500, so if it made 2500 it is in the ballpark. This is not like a planing hull where you need to reach rated plus 50 to 100rpm. On a displacement hull if you pull it back 400-500 turns it is still loaded in a happy spot. Planing hulls I get picky on full load rpm. Not so much on hull speed boats. Unless you plan on running it near full power, which most do not.



One this boat hits 8.5 knots I don’t think 747 engines could get it going much faster.
 
Surevey (mostly) complete: Issues found.

Scientific Wild A$$ Guess



Ted



Ok right. Well the pilot house roof area is only 11 x 11 ft. So we do have it limited to that area.
The surveyor said 15 to 20k to have a yard do the entire roof.
Much more work will need to go into figuring out if the damage can be mitigated to less area than that. The headliner, trim and an instrumentation box will need to be removed and core samples will need to be drilled from below to really see the extent of the damage. The method of repair could also be decided at that point and maybe an accurate number can be made. So the WAG may have to do unless the seller wants to take it on and have the work done to my surveyors satisfaction.
 
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Ok, bligh, I can't contain my curiosity about the boat in your avatar any longer. It looks ready to sink, or close to it. I can't enlarge it to see it better. What make of boat is it, etc.? Could you explain? Sorry if this was mentioned elsewhere.
 
Ok, bligh, I can't contain my curiosity about the boat in your avatar any longer. It looks ready to sink, or close to it. I can't enlarge it to see it better. What make of boat is it, etc.? Could you explain? Sorry if this was mentioned elsewhere.



Lol. It’s some old fiberglass houseboat someone abandoned. I have no idea the make or model of it. Abandoned boats are a common site around here.
 
Negotiate- don’t nit pick small stuff but u r going to have her hauled, props changed, cutlass bearings, shafts checked & engines aligned plus the stabilizer Seals (plus the ram seal/new ram). Add in the cost of PH roof core (at least no non skid do easier/cheaper than deck repairs). That’s a place to start. Remain patient - the survey isn’t going to go away for the seller. So those defects will keep coming up with other buyers. Your seller will eventually figure out that he/she will have to fix them or discount the price. Best he/she deal with you since u already have “skin” in the game. Be prepared for seller not to accept that reality initially. Hence the need to stay civil & patient.
 
Negotiate- don’t nit pick small stuff but u r going to have her hauled, props changed, cutlass bearings, shafts checked & engines aligned plus the stabilizer Seals (plus the ram seal/new ram). Add in the cost of PH roof core (at least no non skid do easier/cheaper than deck repairs). That’s a place to start. Remain patient - the survey isn’t going to go away for the seller. So those defects will keep coming up with other buyers. Your seller will eventually figure out that he/she will have to fix them or discount the price. Best he/she deal with you since u already have “skin” in the game. Be prepared for seller not to accept that reality initially. Hence the need to stay civil & patient.



Thank you.
 
Bare in mind that even if you can successfully take on repairs like the PH roof for 10% of shops cost (for materials, but are willing to invest your own time and realize that for the time of the repair, you won't be able to use the boat), for negotiation purposes, you need to assume professionally repaired. You mentioned possible 25k reduction. . . . Given just the sketchy info provided to go on, I think your 25k is way low. Seems like things like stabilizers that go in for "tune ups" rarely come out of the shop for less than 10k if "tuned up" properly. Shafts, and possible retuning or replacement of props $$$. Glendenning synchronizes dropping off line MAY be something simple . . .if not $$$
Starboard engine failed water pump cooling the hydraulic pump . . . failed due to SAND?!? Was the boat involved in a grounding event? How the heck did SAND get into the cooling cycle?!? If grounded, and sucked sand, that might explain the possible misaligned prop shafts . . . bent shafts maybe?!? Not enough info to go on yet . . .


Have you done the haulout and out of water survey yet?



Hope things work out okay, but something doesn't sound right here . . . :confused:
 
Note that the cause of the wet core needs to be determined. Typically Mfr's did not overdrill and epoxy fastener holes, so over a period of 30 years leaks were inevitable. The whole boat was fastened the same way.

The proper fix would be to remove all fasteners, overdrill, epoxy, and redrill. A workable fix is to unscrew fastener, fill countersink with butyl rubber, rescrew. While you have a screw out poke around with a 90' dental pick and make sure core is dry.
 
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Bare in mind that even if you can successfully take on repairs like the PH roof for 10% of shops cost (for materials, but are willing to invest your own time and realize that for the time of the repair, you won't be able to use the boat), for negotiation purposes, you need to assume professionally repaired. You mentioned possible 25k reduction. . . . Given just the sketchy info provided to go on, I think your 25k is way low. Seems like things like stabilizers that go in for "tune ups" rarely come out of the shop for less than 10k if "tuned up" properly. Shafts, and possible retuning or replacement of props $$$. Glendenning synchronizes dropping off line MAY be something simple . . .if not $$$
Starboard engine failed water pump cooling the hydraulic pump . . . failed due to SAND?!? Was the boat involved in a grounding event? How the heck did SAND get into the cooling cycle?!? If grounded, and sucked sand, that might explain the possible misaligned prop shafts . . . bent shafts maybe?!? Not enough info to go on yet . . .


Have you done the haulout and out of water survey yet?



Hope things work out okay, but something doesn't sound right here . . . [emoji782]



Sorry. My sentence should have read “issue and” not “issue sand.”I’m texting posts from my iPad and I am not very skilled at typing anyhow. There is no ‘sand’ issue. The failed pump is an electric centrifugal pump, not the engine raw water pump. Not a high dollar item. But it’s failure led to the shutting down the starboard engine to keep the hydraulic fluid from overheating.

I am definitely not interested in taking on a rotten deck core issue on. I don’t have the time or interest in doing that type of work. A yard will do it at the owners expense or I will move on. But even if a yard does the work, I will be losing time with the boat. So this event is still sort of a downer for me. I figured 5k for the stabilizer service since the port one is new and that service was about 5 k including the new fin. I think members here posted their stab service costs not long ago. I’ll try the search function.
 
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If you have agreed on a reasonable price to begin with, then I would accept the small stuff and concentrate on the big ticket items, the deck and the stabilizers. The rest looks like minor issues to me, but I love working on my boat and am willing to tackle most anything. Personally I would do the core myself, but you may not want to. So if it was me and everything is as you stated and I wanted the boat, I would come in $25K less and see what happens. Maybe tell the seller that you are not mechanical and therefore will have to pay for all the repairs and you are accepting some and want him to take of some, the expensive ones...
 
Thanks for link to previous thread. Glad I looked - this is a 1986 52-foot motorsailor with twin engines and stabilizers (honestly, never heard of a motorsailor with stabilizers, though I'm sure the few Nordhavn MS's are so equipped). Has a davit crane on the foredeck and carries two dinks. This is a unique boat that will not appeal to all - both buyer and seller need to figure this out ("Mr. Needle (as in 'haystack'), meet Mr. Needle").

Did you get the rigging and sails surveyed? It's a 35-year old boat. If replacement is needed, could easily dwarf the cost of the punky deck.

Along the lines of it being a 35-year old boat (and a complicated one at that), I do not believe it reasonable to expect full-repair price, especially SoCal yard rates. Ensenada MX is 150 nms south and can be a significant savings for work like this. But yes, boat will be out of commission for a few months.

At any rate, this boat appears to have had a lot of equipment installed over the years (stabilizers on a sailboat!!), so there is a lot to go wrong and will. You and the seller really need to be reasonable with each other and figure this out. If you have your heart set on a motorsailor, you don't have a ton of choices and soft-decks are not uncommon in boats of this vintage and style.

Good luck - definitely a globe girdling boat. Would love to meet her owners over the years. Must have been an interesting lot.

Peter
 
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What is the asking price?

You are going to offer around$30,000 to $50,000 less than his asking price. On a $125,000 priced boat I doubt if this would fly. On a half a million dollar boat it is reasonable.

pete
 
What is the asking price?

You are going to offer around$30,000 to $50,000 less than his asking price. On a $125,000 priced boat I doubt if this would fly. On a half a million dollar boat it is reasonable.

pete
Asking was $369k. See link to YW in my previous post. Impressive motorsailors.
 
This won’t help the OP, but I was highly-attracted to this boat when she was for sale previously in December of 2017. We had serious discussions at home about moving to purchase her, and I was on the verge of going to look at her. I still wonder what she would be like to own and cruise. Her capabilities and our cruising plans mesh nicely...what a boat!

Good luck on the matters at hand. Some great advice has been offered.
 
That is one beautiful boat! It looks like there is a centerline hatch and a few other attachments, but fortunately there is no rigging attached to the roof. Since this is a roof and not a deck it does not scare me as much as what I was previously reading. The roof/top will be graded for water run off which means the trapped water in the core will do the same. I could not see enough in pictures to tell if there is staining, but there appears to be one in the forward port upper corner. Make sure the moisture is confined to the helm top. Gravity is not your friend. That repair (if confined) should not be a major undertaking for a good yard. That is one really nice boat. Impressive engine room and woodwork. Load up the costs for each repair and expect the owner to pay for all of it at that price. You don't own something that nice and ignore a wet top. That boat appears to be worth fighting for. Good luck. Bill

Upon further review there is some rigging attached which makes the repair more necessary and more complicated. Does not change my impression of the boat though. At that price he needs to make it right. The time factor in my opinion would be worth it to own something that unique and beautiful.
 
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That is one pretty motorsailer and CL has a reputation for building capable blue water boats. I'm trying to figure out how to copy that boarding platform. It's amazing.

The PH roof could be replaced in it's entirety. It might be cheaper to rip and replace rather than matching and fairing in repairs.

I seem to remember the OP mentioned a rigging survey. We re-rigged our ketch rig and it wasn't terribly expensive. Granted, we have a short "utility" rig but the final cost for standing rigging was about a third of what we budgeted. I replaced the running rigging myself over couple of weekends. We found an independent rigger who fit us in here and there over two weeks. Very happy with the outcome. Sails are another matter entirely.

As far as the boat itself, assuming you've compared examples in order to get under contract, there aren't many boats like that in that price range. I agree with others, don't nit pick. Make a corrective offer that lets you assume the repairs. You will ensure it's done properly, the seller will ensure it gets done cheaply and quickly.

I don't think an additional 10% off asking is off base to over that amount work/risk.
 
BTW, I am for sharing the surveys with the current owner and selling broker as support of your updated offer.

I know many on here disagree with this approach based on other threads - you paid for it and they should share the cost if they want it I believe is the argument.

But it should not only support your revised offer but also make the owner and broker aware of the issues and MAY help future prospective buyers should you not come to a final agreement to purchase.
 
Your list of items that were found would lead me to walk away. Rust and fuel storage don’t go together. The roof could be just the tip of the iceberg. I am reminded of all the TV shows based on home renovations and there are always surprises, often nasty. Unless the price is really right and your desired boat checklist makes this a Unicorn that you will never find again I’d seriously reconsider or really really lower the offer. But that’s just me....
 
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