NextGen 3.5 won't turn over

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Lollygag1

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Lollygag
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34 Mainship Pilot Hardtop
I want to get my NextGen 3.5 working at which time I will decide to sell it and use the money for solar or keep it. The issue is it will not turn over, the mechanic says it is a fuel injector and that a new one is around $700. Before I buy this does anyone know where I might be able to get one cheaper?

I have thoroughly blown the repair budget this year :nonono:
 
Lollygag, not really sure if your problem is like mine but every so often my nextgen won’t start up either. I open the sound shield and pump the arm with the grey boot that I am pointing at in the picture to the left several times then try to start the genny. Sometimes it works the first time and sometimes I have to repeat once or twice and then it usually cranks over. I have no idea what that think is all I know is that it helps my issue, perhaps it might help you too.
 

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Thanks, I will give that a try tomorrow. I have had that stick before and had to pull it to get gen to shut off. If it works I owe ya one.
 
Hopefully it will and if we ever get up your way I will take you up on it.
 
First off I'm no generator mechanic but fail to see how a fuel injector will not allow the genset to turn over. Fuel injectors deliver fuel, starters turn the diesel engine over. I bought a new injector for a larger diesel for far less ($245), $700 seems very expensive for a fuel injector.
 
Thanks that was my thought too. I am slowly starting to learn how to maintain some of the mechanical stuff. Using this year to learn how to do this so I can save some money but also be prepared in case something goes wrong
 
By "turn over" do you mean the starter does not crank or the engine does not run?
You can remove the injector and take it to an injector repair shop for a rebuild. Google "injector repair shop near me" and give one a call.

Looking at the NextGen site, the 3.5 is a single cylinder 7 hp Kubota diesel with Bosch injection. That injector should be common and readily available.
 
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Older 3.5 had some problems with the exhaust corrosion and letting water drip back down into the cylinder. It’s a direct shot. The new ones Send the water downstream and can not do this. The old one looks like a polished bean can. The new one is bent pipe with orange insulation.
Now let’s get some facts straight. Will the starter crank over the engine? If so is the electric fuel pump suppling fuel to the injector pump. Next is the fuel shut off working? You can pull this manually.next is fuel getting to the injector? Test by loosening fuel nut at the injector and crank engine. I am the Long Island dealer for Next-Gen and can help but you must be more specific as to what is happening
 
When you crank the starter it just makes a sound like it is trying to start but does not. If you do it enough times it may start and run fine. But if I then shut it off and try to start again the same issue. So far we replaced the relay, glow plug and fuel filter.

I will check the exhaust tomorrow to see it it is old or new version. The generator was rarely used before we got the boat, I don’t have the install records but it is likely 2013-14ish

Thanks for the help
 
Get a better mechanic.
 
Check Fuel quality, electric fuel pump, trapped air in injector line, fuel solenoid shut down, oil sender, over temp sender
 
This is why I posted, I wanted others to chime in. I am going to try to fix. I am not very confident mechanically but slowly getting better.
 
Not implying that you can't fix it yourself. I would get a better mechanic to look at it and diagnose the problem. Then learn to fix it myself. Best way to learn your equipment is to learn from someone who knows what they are doing.
 
I know what you are suggesting. The yard mechanic is a bit of a curmudgeon so getting info and learning from him is out. Working on options for a better mechanic.
 
I went through hell with my 3.5 NG and ended up packing it off to the factory in Jacksonville. The price differential between fixing mine and getting a new one was low enough that I just bought a new one. Because Hurricane Michael blew my pier and lift down, the boat lived in the water for 18 months with the NG's exhaust facing a long fetch which can generate 2-3 footers for short periods in a bad blow. I was running the generator once a week to ensure all was well, and then one day it did not budge with a fully charged battery. I pulled the glow plug and with a rag in front of the opening hit the starter. The engine rolled over easily and pumped a cylinder full of seawater into the rag. Reassembled and started ok. Then two or three oil changes to make sure all was well. Good thing I was starting it as often as I was. The new one is still not a lot better getting started, but it runs. I also found out that the manual is quite correct about running 30% antifreeze (ethylene glycol I believe) in hot summer water here. I was getting overheat shutdowns until I switched from 50-50 premix I use in my Yanmar. I run it HARD. My first 3.5 NG had no fuse in the power line to the 12 Volt DC exhaust fan, and when that piece of junk Jabsco squirrel cage fan motor seized up, the whole DC wiring harness burned up and filled the boat with white smoke at 2200 in an anchorage far from home on a hot night - I shifted bunks to my brother's Grand Banks 42 to which I was rafted. The new harness I ordered came with a fuse, hmmmm. However, I had a better idea. I was able to shoehorn a Vents AC brushless centrifugal fan of about the same CFM as the Jabsco back in behind the genny. In order that it not be subjected to a bunch of spikey voltages at genny start, I installed a 30 second time delay for it. I NEED that cooling fan down here, but others have said up north not so much. My boat has a 13.5 kBtu rooftop air conditioner as well as a 10 kBtu Dometic Turbo marine AC unit (upgraded from the inadequate and then failed 7 kBtu marine AC the boat came with). Believe it or not, my 3.5 NG can run both ACs because I installed Micro-Air Easy Start circuit boards into both of them reducing the startup surge by 70% - it is hard to hear it take on the load when the compressors kick in. I think all that could have sent a kid to Auburn on out of state tuition rates for a year. Oh, and I really like the local start rig (with integral hour meter) the new genny came with because it allows me to flip the motor lid and be right there on top of it to start it instead of the insanely located starting switch on the power panel the boat came with - it's OK sometimes, but not always the best, especially with no hour meter.
 
When you say it won’t turn over, I would take that to mean that the starter won’t engage and crank the engine. If you mean that it will not start then that is a completely different issue. I also see no way that an injector would stop the engine from cranking. It certainly could stop the engine from starting. Find a good mechanic and have him/her to tutor you on the engines. Pay them for an hour or so of time teaching you and it will be a good investment.
 
Checked this morning and it has the old "bean can" exhaust. The engine is cranking just not starting. As stated if i am persistent I can sometimes get it to start. Wife's uncle who has done all his own work on a MS30 is going to come down and futz with it.
 
You can loosen the nuts where the bean can attaches to the cylinder head and see if there is moisture there.
 
First off I'm no generator mechanic but fail to see how a fuel injector will not allow the genset to turn over. Fuel injectors deliver fuel, starters turn the diesel engine over. I bought a new injector for a larger diesel for far less ($245), $700 seems very expensive for a fuel injector.

I can, hydraulic lock. If the injector on an EFI system goes bad and allows free flow of fuel, it can cause a hydraulic lock on the compression stroke.
 
So it cranks and no startee. I can best refer to my previous opus here and add that a fully charged battery versus one with even a bit of discharge made a difference with both my original 3.5 NG and my brand new one. With the local start option I now have, I like to touch the start side of the rocker switch for a second before rocking back to the preheat side. That gets me a tickety-tick-tick from the electric fuel pump and lets me know all is well there - it seems to quicken starting. 10-15 seconds of pre-heat, no more. I think you should install a new glow plug just to be sure. It is simple. Please let us know how it goes. These one-lungers never start up like the main engine or a car, you have to be courageous with the start button holding it down for longer than you may be used to doing with the other engines in your life. Hope to hear from you on any success or lack thereof.
 
Had someone with experience down there today and we noticed the intake hose had a crack underneath. He will go and get a replacement tomorrow. He is going to go through everything and if need be take the injector out and get it rebuilt. Unfortunately I cannot be there to see and learn what he is doing.

Also noticed that it did not appear some of the items the previous tech said they replaced were not done so I will be having a chat with management next week. Done working the yard mechanic time to find a new one
 
Battery’s are fully charged, confirmed new glow plug was installed. It will likely be working when I get back on Sunday.
 
Kewl. Hope to hear that i is rolling along. What intake hose? Fuel? Water?
 
Good to find and fix, but of course nothing to do with starting.
 
Ok folks we are back at it. Believe the issue may be electrical as the glow plug was not heating up. Question to the team is there appears to be two relays, problem is we can only find one which is located near the generator. Thoughts on where the other may be? We have not removed the panel and before we do thought we would ask the collective membership. Precious tech said they replaced a relay so I want to find out which one.

to date
Checked glow plug (works when we give it current)
Fuel injector is fine
Fuel pump a/ok
No air in line
All hoses in good working order
Fuel is fine

Thanks as always
 

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