Interlux Substitute

I like Interlux Brightside.
But I’m not thrilled w their colors. They basically have no shades .. just basic colors. Like school bus yellow and fire engine red.
So what paint/coating is comparable quality wise and is the same type. I think it’s a one part polyurethane but don’t even know if there’s different kinds of urethanes.
So what brand can I substitute to get some nice colors?

On a previous boat I used Brightside Seattle Gray but it was too dark so I mixed it with 3 parts white and 1 part gray and got a nice lighter gray. Maybe mix some???

Yes it is one part paint. I painted my hull last year and was told by the boat shop lots of guys used Rustoleum for $70/gal vs the Brightside for 160. The guy helping me had experience with Brightside so we used it. We had trouble with the foam roller leaving lots of bubbles and even after tipping with a good brush there were too many bubbles. Within 10-20 minutes we had large areas of the applied paint slide down resulting in ripples and roughness. It had to be left 2-3 weeks until dry enough to sand off and try again. We thinned the paint out of the can maybe 10% but I now read to thin with a low volatile thinner up to 50% to give it more time to level out and bubbles to pop and flatten. Probably would need more coats then. As it turned out in the end I am happy with the end results.

Could you do a hand mix with some other polyurethane colors to tint to what you want?

Transaxial said:

Yes it is one part paint. I painted my hull last year and was told by the boat shop lots of guys used Rustoleum for $70/gal vs the Brightside for 160. The guy helping me had experience with Brightside so we used it. We had trouble with the foam roller leaving lots of bubbles and even after tipping with a good brush there were too many bubbles. Within 10-20 minutes we had large areas of the applied paint slide down resulting in ripples and roughness. It had to be left 2-3 weeks until dry enough to sand off and try again. We thinned the paint out of the can maybe 10% but I now read to thin with a low volatile thinner up to 50% to give it more time to level out and bubbles to pop and flatten. Probably would need more coats then. As it turned out in the end I am happy with the end results.

Could you do a hand mix with some other polyurethane colors to tint to what you want?

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When I painted my topsides with bright side I did under a winter cover. I used Interlux thinner 333. I also had a thermometer so I was aware of the temperature rise or fall during the day. I had to use the thinner differently as per the temperature to correct for the sag the paint would develop while drying. I used 3 coats of primer and 2 coats of gloss. 6 years latter I wish I had used 2 part epoxy (perfection)

Pettit EzPoxy is a similar polyurethane paint. Unfortunately it has a limited color palette as well.
http://www.pettitpaint.com/media/4209/pettit-paint-topside-paint-color-chart.pdf

Nomad Willy said:

I like Interlux Brightside.
But I’m not thrilled w their colors. They basically have no shades .. just basic colors. Like school bus yellow and fire engine red.
So what paint/coating is comparable quality wise and is the same type. I think it’s a one part polyurethane but don’t even know if there’s different kinds of urethanes.
So what brand can I substitute to get some nice colors?

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Brightside is an oil based alkyd paint with a small amount of polyureathane in it for marketing purposes and maybe some gloss or durability enhancement.

True polyurethane paint is a two part coating.

Home Depot, Sherman William's and most paint stores carry oil based paint. They will color match the paint to whatever you want. I used Sherman William's oil based enamel for painting Sandpipers exterior and it retains it's shine similar to Brightside and Easypoxy. About 5 years and the gloss is gone.

I now use System Three water based LPU paint which is a two part polyurethane. It is more durable and retains gloss longer than alkyd. Colors are limited but can be mixed for different shade.

Well I’ve got some ideas.
I’m surprised no one mentioned Pettit marine paints. I had forgotten about it when I started this thread. This group is product driven or sensitive to things to buy.

Comodave,
Little did you know haha but I’ve done quite a bit of mixing different colors. Seemed the obvious thing to do Dave. But it was flawed. My wife said straight away “how are you going to re-paint?”. So I wrote the combinations of colors on the top of the cans. There were still problems later on. But I have mostly rejected mixing.

Transaxial,
Don’t like what I’m hearing about bubbles. I’ve never used a roller on a boat in my life. And I’ve never had bubbles in my paint.
You wrote “Could you do a hand mix with some other polyurethane colors to tint to what you want?“ Don’t know.
Most boaters here would probably be heading to two-part or other tech products. I’m (predictably) thinking about the other direction. You mention mixing oil based paints. Well if they are good enough to mix w Brightside they should be good enough to use exclusively.
I have the Interlux self help download ... I’ll check on it. I think they have oil based paint and now I’m wondering if they use the same pigments and hence have the same colors as Brightside. Hmmm

grahahamdouglass,
Got your message. But I don’t want to go there. Painting is enough trouble w/o halving to mix and to deal w other odd irregularities too. And touch-up is so easy w oil paint.

HopCar,
Oh I see you did mention Pettit. But I disagree .. better colors. This is for my 12’ row boat and I think Ice blue hull w GBbeige interior would do well. But the two together seem a little bit odd in some way. HaHa perhaps that’s why I like it. Thanks

syjos,
I used water based varnish and didn’t like it. VERY thin and cracked an flaked a bit way too soon. But it was in Alaska. They always rave about thick paints/coatings. Especially varnish. “Poly for marketing” .. kinda like 10% syn oil to be able to label the oil as a blend. I know Brightside poly was similar but had no idea it was that close to regular oil based paint. I suspect the oil based paint now offered is quite different than what I used 30 yrs ago. I just may find out. And re something above I’ll not be disappointed at recoating after 5 years.

Thanks all.
I learned some good stuff. Think I’ll look at HopCar’s color chart again.

I did painting multiple times mixing the paint colors and didn’t have any problems matching the custom color. I just measured carefully for the 3:1 mix.

Nomad W

The Easypoxy paint I mentioned in my post is a Pettit single part polyurethane paint comparable to Brightside. Why they call it Easypoxy is beyond me.

Water based LPU paint is a lot more durable and easier to apply than water based varnish or clear coats. I was not impressed with WB varnish either. Hard to brush it without air bubbles and it didn't look right.

I got rid of 95% of Sandpipers exterior teak so minimal varnish. And the remaining 5% will be gone soon.

Dave,
It was more a problem of finding it later in the garage. And I had several colors about the same color. Maybe if I was a little better organized.

syjos,
Yea I wondered bout the poxy business. I assumed it was part epoxy. haha

Oh I see why the blue ice and GB beige didn’t work. The two colors are the same value. So now I see the blue ice and Dull Dead grass works well. Not sure how I like it though. I want to combine a warm color w a cool color a bit bright .. but not loud.

I've used Jamestown distributors Total Boat paints with good results. The only problem is you have to order on line.

There has been some talk of rolling and tipping in this thread.
I tried it on the little skiff I built and it was awful! Brush marks and bubbles.
I was using two part Perfection. I followed the directions carefully.

I ran across a book sold by PT Watercraft that gave instructions that allowed me to roll and no tipping required. It worked great! The paint flowed out beautifully, no sags or bubbles.
?...By the way Rolling Perfection took me from very erratic results rolling and tipping to a star painter with gloss so shiny you use it to shave with. *Thanks...? D.P. ?rocketkayak?

I haven’t had very good results with mixing colors, but that’s probably just me and poor lighting. I’ve been wanting to try Epifanes paint . Has anyone tried it? I like the way their varnish moves.

Slowmo said:

I've used Jamestown distributors Total Boat paints with good results. The only problem is you have to order on line.

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Their bilge paint is definitely good stuff, so I'd consider their others worthy of trying. Be aware, any that are similar to their bilge paint in makeup will have fumes a few orders of magnitude worse than Brightside.

For varnish I always use McClosky’s Spar Varnish. Can’t remember how I started that .. it was so far in the past. Epifanes is so popular here on TF there must be a reason so many are attracted to it that has nothing to do w the product. Perhaps it’s the odd name. I bought two cans of it about 10yrs ago but when it comes time to paint I must think there could be something else odd about it so I reach for my tried and proven. Marty in what way does varnish move?

HopCar,
I think the roll tip requires a team of two people the have perfect moves and timing. I’m not looking for drop jaw perfection. Just brushing McClosky’s gives very consistent results. Still looking at the colors on the Pettit link. Thanks

Eric I don’t really know that it flows any better than anything else. It may all be in my head. I just like it especially when you thin it 10 percent. But I would probably like any other varnish if I would just give it a try. It’s kinda like the first time you try Penetrol with enamel paint. I must be a real pushover by the name because I use Epifanes brushes also.

Currently painting Seafarer with Kirby Paint Co. Great quality and lots of colors. Needs to be thinned quite a bit as it is very viscous.

I tried to look up Kirby Paint.
Tried

Marty if Epifanes works use it and smile.
I have some Penetrol. I think I used it for my oil finish mix.
Don't remember how though.
Marty check your car if it says Epifanes on the trunk.

With all oil base paints and varnishes my Dad always told me to lay in on thin like a first date with a good looking woman . He said if you lay it on to thick it or she is gonna run . Each coat has to get to know the previous coat. “ Take your time son”

Nomad Willy said:

I tried to look up Kirby Paint.
Tried

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Here you go Eric. We used their paints for years on our old 40' wood boat. Great traditional enamel.



And if anyone needs some white lead for canvas bedding, I still have some from Kirby.


https://kirbypaint.com/

David you’re da man!
These colors are great.
Hope I can get them locally.
Thank you very much.
Still working on the trailer. It’s kinda home made.
I remember your old boat and still miss seeing her in your avatar.

David,
I’ve been looking at colors but also browsing through their site and was really surprised to find McClosky’s varnish. I wonder if it’s a Kirby product or if they sell it for McClosky’s. I’ve never (to my recollection) seen Kirby paint but I’ve never had trouble finding McClosky’s varnish.
Well if I like the Kirby paint like I like the McClosky’s I’m like they say “good to go”.

Eric,

It’s a nice thick paint. You will need to cut it about 30% then it lays down nicely. They are great folks to work with. A real family operation. You can’t get it locally, only from them via their site. Shipping is about a week.



Got the boot stripe laid out and painted today.

Bob Cofer said:

Eric,

It’s a nice thick paint. You will need to cut it about 30% then it lays down nicely. They are great folks to work with. A real family operation. You can’t get it locally, only from them via their site. Shipping is about a week.

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Got the boot stripe laid out and painted today.

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Looking good Bob

I really like those Kirby colors. They are old traditional colors I remember from the fifties and sixties.

They also sell pine tar and pine tar soap. I may buy some just for the smell. That’s what a real marine store should smell like.

Kerby paints are at Fisheries Supply in Seattle.
I like the Kerby colors in general better but I’m really drawn to fighting lady yellow (In the Pettit line) with a light green from Kerby. They should have a good color chart. Kerby has quite a number of greens.
And yes Hop Car I needed a pine tar source. Then I will review my book “Skiffs and Schooners” by Calder. He tells all about pine tar. Says he knew somebody that put black pine tar in white oleoresinous paint and people raved about how white it is.
Next week I’ll see what Fisheries Supply has in Kerby paint. I’ll be looking for that yellow from Pettit too. And I haven’t been to Fisheries for some time so I’ll look at anchors and everything. Fun

Eric I noticed that Kirby makes Fighting Lady Yellow also. There is a story that goes with that color but I can’t remember it. I think Fighting Lady was a famous charter fishing boat that had that color made specially for her.

The name comes from a charter boat in Florida that was first painted that color. I think that both Awl Grip and Interlux also make it.

Kirby Paints will mix to any color. They keep the formula on file if you need to reorder and also write it on the lid. So when you get the paint, just take a photo of the lid and save it in a safe place. They also carry red lead for marine and industrial use.

All Kirby’d up! Ivory Gloss and Light Grey Gloss trim. Added a pint of Penotrol per gallon to thin and get the flow that works best for me.