Integrity 386(2005)

BruceK said:

The outboard was tethered in the cockpit on the IG;on the Integrity the way smaller lazarette is better separated from the ER, I might keep it there. I usually keep spare fuel on deck in the cockpit too, abundant caution from acting for people injured in an exploding petrol/gas boat.

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Bruce, there is a contraption, (sorry the name escapes me), that will allow the outboard to rotate as the dink is pulled up on it's side attached to the duckboard mounted snap davits, so it then hangs vertically, and can actually stay on the dink. An alternative which is much cheaper, and if the motor is as light say as my Honda 2.3hp, is to just mount it by its own clamps onto a swing-out motor mount on the rail. See photos. Sorry about the side-on pic, but best seen in the top one anyway, jutting out from the vertical rail support. Might well fit the rail on your boat, as I see in your pics the aft rail is supported by vertical tube-shaped supports. But works well. The real issue is the weight of the motor. I could only locate one example of the swivelling transom mounts I described, which is a simple version, as seen here - not sure where from though - looked like an overseas website, but they are available somewhere here in Aus, I've seen several. The one I'm thinking of actually automatically activates the swivel action as the dinghy comes up.
https://www.polymarine.com/swivel-outboard-motor-mounting-bracket/

Good thoughts Peter. I`ve 2 motors, a Tohatsu 5hp around 20kg,a Merc 3.3 around 12kg. The snap davits are good for around 55kg. The load is on the swimstep, I`m guessing the davit things need a backing plate. The Merc is light to remove/ refit;the Tohatsu, better motor but heavier. I`ve seen pics of the engine swivel too,it + motor lifts the overall weight, the Island Inflatable 2.6M dinghy itself is about 30kg

Whatever system you settle on will need to be simple to operate otherwise you will end up looking for excuses not to launch the RIB.

Andy G said:

Whatever system you settle on will need to be simple to operate otherwise you will end up looking for excuses not to launch the RIB.

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I agree. We were quite reluctant once we hauled it up to the FB. Just ordered a set of Ceredi snap davits which I`m assured fit the pads already glued to the new dinghy. There is access from the lazarette into the transom to through bolt the davits. Trick will be getting the davits in the right place, hoping they come with instructions well translated from Italian.

Just looking at your avatar I notice you have a BBQ off the stern on the port side. Will the RIB when on the davits interfere with using the BBQ? I really like the size of the swim step.

BruceK said:

Trick will be getting the davits in the right place, hoping they come with instructions well translated from Italian.

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Actually Bruce, this part should be a cinch. I had Weaver Snap Davits glued to my dinghy by professionals, but maybe because the hypalon of the dinghy was so old, the glue just would not stick for long, not sure why though.

You are lucky, as yours are still on the dinghy, suggesting well-bedded. The mounting of the spring-loaded mounts on the duck-board, (using the downunder term here), should therefore be easy. Just choose where you want the dinghy to be when up on its side, put the mounts onto the dinghy parts, swing it up manually, (with help is good), then mark out where the holes should go - lower the dinghy out of the way, and go for it. Ask me how I know... The platform mounts for me were the easy bit.

As an aside, when my dinghy-mounted clips kept coming adrift, I eventually gave up trying to re-glue them on, and just used to clip the grab rope along the side of the dinghy into the platform mounts, and it still swung up ok, and then just rested on the side of the dinghy, held by the side rope. But I was taking the motor off because the 2.3hp Honda was so light.

Congrats on the new boat Bruce, she looks a beauty. Good news about restrictions being lifted also.
I also bought an Island Inflatable, the smaller 2.3, for a previous, smaller boat, on recommendations from other owners for up to ten years of hard use, so you should feel quite confident about the dinghy.

It`s our second "Island Inflatables" 2.6M dinghy. Last one did well.Picked it up unused second hand for $600. It floats and works.
I don`t think the pads have done any work, I know they were professionally fitted. Hope the positioning works, it was set up for a Bayliner.
The bbq could be a problem but the step is quite deep. It`s electric,I prefer LPG, if it doesn`t play nicely with the dinghy it goes.

BruceK said:

It`s our second "Island Inflatables" 2.6M dinghy. Last one did well.Picked it up unused second hand for $600. It floats and works.
I don`t think the pads have done any work, I know they were professionally fitted. Hope the positioning works, it was set up for a Bayliner.
The bbq could be a problem but the step is quite deep. It`s electric,I prefer LPG, if it doesn`t play nicely with the dinghy it goes.

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Bruce, set up the platform clips as near to the outer edge as possible, just so there is adequate meat for strength, as you don't want to have to haul the dink, with motor on especially, any further than you have to to get them linked.

With this sort of set-up, removing the motor after the dink is locked on is the safest and easiest way. With a fairly wide swim-step this should mean that if you use a rigid prop connection to the boat rail area, once the dink is vertical or just beyond, there should be plenty of room for the BBQ.

However, if you decided to do away with the electric one, instead of another quite large gas-fired one, that still needs to be fixed on a rail mount, I can heartily recommend one of these. One set of heat beads and some fire-starter fragments and you're away for a whole meal.

Cobb Australia

Heck, there's now even a gas one - well I never...

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=cobb&qpvt=cobb&FORM=IGRE

We loved our Cobb, and it can be moved around and set up on virtually any surface, it is so well insulated.

Peter, we had a Magma which used solid fuel, great bbq. Once I get the davits I`ll start setting out. With a secured line attached to the davit.
BTW, this may help someone, we found a rails attachment ss dinghy rack on ebay, $173 delivered, from Gold Coast. Bought one, liked it, bought another. All fitted and secure, on the FB. Takes a kayak or 3 SUPs.

Very nice Bruce, Congratulation on a great buy, always liked that style of boat, the two little Cummins are great motors, should be a very economical boat, let us know if you get to cruise up my way.

BruceK said:

BTW, this may help someone, we found a rails attachment ss dinghy rack on ebay, $173 delivered, from Gold Coast. Bought one, liked it, bought another. All fitted and secure, on the FB. Takes a kayak or 3 SUPs.

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Bruce any chance of a photo?

Andy G said:

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Bruce any chance of a photo?

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This might help.https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUP-Kay...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
You can narrow the size of the space between the vertical of the rack and the railing by rotating the clamp. I don`t have a pic of them installed,but we now have 2, one either side of the FB going aft. Bought one, decided it works, so bought another.

auskiwi said:

Very nice Bruce, Congratulation on a great buy, always liked that style of boat, the two little Cummins are great motors, should be a very economical boat, let us know if you get to cruise up my way.

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They are good engines, no aftercoolers. The 4 blade props look a bit small, it exceeded an expected 2650 at survey, about 2750, but I think within limits.

BTW,We`ve got one of your model Riv on the marina, owners love it but may be selling.

The Italian made Ceredi snap davit set arrived today via Austpost. Committed to Ceredi as their pads are already glued to the dinghy.The brackets which sit in the pads on the dinghy, do they stay there all the time? They come with split pin type keepers, looks like they stay, they won`t play nicely with the hull when the dinghy is in the water on the towline, boat on a mooring.

Bruce, it sounds like those are similar to the Weaver type, (yeah - almost identical - I checked online) and although there are split pins holding the dinghy loops onto the dinghy-mounted pads, they are not meant to be removed while in use. Ideally they should be positioned such as to not touch the hull of the mother vessel. However, from memory, even if they do protrude a bit, it does not appear to be an issue, because you tend to dock against the back edge of the platform and lift the dink up to engage the platform clips as soon as you touch home base, so to speak, if you are going to lift it out. If letting it float on the end of its painter, the dink tends to stay away from the boat anyway.

PS. I don't advise leaving it clipped on, but floating free alongside the platform, (other than long enough to remove the motor) as the jerking of the wave movement would be a challenge for the glued on mounts.

Peter B said:

......PS. I don't advise leaving it clipped on, but floating free alongside the platform, (other than long enough to remove the motor) as the jerking of the wave movement would be a challenge for the glued on mounts.

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Good point Peter, we inherited a RIB with our recently acquired boat, equipped with weaver SD’s (dinghy mounted pads are also giving way), left it attached to the duckboard and floating, wind gets up in the middle of the night, dinghy bucks around rattling the metal mounts, sending shockwaves into the aft cabin.

BruceK said:

After 3 years searching we settled on a 2005 Integrity 386. The hull is based on the old(unsold) Island Gypsy 36/ Halvorsen moulds. The extra 2ft 6" is from incorporating the swimstep into the hull, generally the boat resembles the IG36 it is based on. The interior is redesigned, updated, and way more accommodating. The bow cabin is generous, there is a 2 bunk second cabin(or cupboard) Unlike most current Integrity models, it has a flybridge. There is almost no exterior teak.

Power is 2 210hp Cummins BTs with 698 hours at survey, genset is an Onan 7KW EQD with 135 hours recorded. The engine room is more spacious than the big brother Integrity 426(think IG40) we didn`t buy. There is a bowthruster. Near 80 hours were added by the delivery guys who brought it up from Melbourne over 6 days at a stately 8.75 knots. They took refuge from the weather twice and say it handled rough conditions well.Carries 750L of fuel and 750L of water.

Previously a Sydney boat ("Joy of Kathryn"),it was sold to Melbourne,now back in Sydney.There are things to correct over time but nothing vital.We will probably keep the current name.

Still looking forward to our first cruise, waiting on restrictions easing.
I tried attaching some pics, from the same file as the new avatar, but they were "invalid".

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Bruce
We have a 496ce, and love it. Some of the early Integrities have Gel coat issues that are hard repair.

Steve

Best Wishes with the Integrity

The helm and some other features look quite similar to the IG Raised Pilot House.

On the lookout for an Integrity 34+. No many in the US. Won’t be going until 2025 but getting a lot of info.

Pier Pressure said:

Bruce
We have a 496ce, and love it. Some of the early Integrities have Gel coat issues that are hard repair.

Steve

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Steve,I was aware of issues around 2005-2006 with 386 and 426 hulls. What year is your 496ce?
After agreeing price, I approached survey as a 50/50 prospect of proceeding, willing to walk again. We opened a number of the well spread small blisters I expected. We scraped off the antifoul and found a thin white layer which could be a/f primer, or gelcoat, soft and easily removed. Under that was raw apparently original fibreglass, with no sign of water intrusion, and no nasty osmotic fluid. I decided, with surveyor advice, the safe course is soda blast and 2-3 layers of epoxy, the alternative was leave it as was. An 06 426 I was buying but rejected for other reasons, had been treated that way, with osmosis found only in the transom, which I`m guessing is formed in a separate mould and laminated on. I hope there is no nasty surprise when we sodablast.

Bruce

Our 496 ce is a 2007, I bought it new from the dealer Maryland in 2013. We had a few small blisters on the transom as well. But we had a number of small cracks and crazing that we had repaired when we had Her commissioned. More have appeared over the years but we are diligently repairing them. Doors have been an issue, we are replacing them this year . We located 48 degrees north and remain in the water year round with a quick haul out for zincs and bottom wash and have not seen any new blisters. I can speak only for the 496, they were a well thought out design, systems are simply laid out and serviceable. Watch for leaky windows and doors other than that for the right price they are worth the trouble.

Steve

BruceK said:

Steve,I was aware of issues around 2005-2006 with 386 and 426 hulls. What year is your 496ce?
After agreeing price, I approached survey as a 50/50 prospect of proceeding, willing to walk again. We opened a number of the well spread small blisters I expected. We scraped off the antifoul and found a thin white layer which could be a/f primer, or gelcoat, soft and easily removed. Under that was raw apparently original fibreglass, with no sign of water intrusion, and no nasty osmotic fluid. I decided, with surveyor advice, the safe course is soda blast and 2-3 layers of epoxy, the alternative was leave it as was. An 06 426 I was buying but rejected for other reasons, had been treated that way, with osmosis found only in the transom, which I`m guessing is formed in a separate mould and laminated on. I hope there is no nasty surprise when we sodablast.

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Bruce, Congrats on a great looking boat! I've always thought the Halvorsen/Integrity line would make a great next/final boat for me...if I ever bought another one. Very similar size and layout with much improved creature comforts and more modern interior styling than my 1977 34 LRC Californian. I'm a big fan of the sedan layout with galley up. Twins and a BT must be a luxury! Now you have absolutely NO EXCUSE for banging a dock or lock wall!

BruceK said:

Andy, I`m coming round to "dinghy on swimstep". Frame and crane on FB could cost $8K and you need a trained monkey onboard to climb on the frame and deal with the dinghy attachments. Our new/secondhand dinghy from an abandoned project has dinghy brackets already glued on, so I just need the brackets to fix to the swimstep.

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I've debated the same dink issues that you are on a similarly sized boat. My current and best-for-me solution involves swimstep stowage with a fixed transom OB mount and a Garhauer Lifting Davit rated for 150 lbs (68 kg). My empty dink weighs 115 lbs and my 15HP Merc weighs 77 lbs. If you'd like pics, let me know.

I started with a 2HP Honda and a smaller dink rated for 8HP. It was a slow ride so I added the 15HP Merc. That was too much power for that small dink (and a WET ride at planing speed) and at 77 lbs, I needed a davit for safe motor lifting. So, I did what any red blooded male would do...I got a bigger dink and a davit!

Sorry to hear about your Covid restrictions. I just returned from a 65 day cruise of the California Delta. On 3/18, I was heading to the boat for a 3-day fishing trip. It turned out to be 65 days afloat during a global pandemic! Fortunately, there were no boating restrictions here and I found that I pretty much had the waters to myself for the first 45 days. It was heaven! Excepting the three nights the first week at my marina to provision and prepare following lock down notification, I only spent one night on a dock during the trip. It was two glorious months of anchoring and dink rides!

Now, after 65 days afloat during the global pandemic, I know I've found the right combination of cost, ease of launch, and dink utility. Two weeks ago I added a $200 Garmin Striker4 Portable Fishfinder for the dink. It's been great seeing the depth underway and great fun using it to troll for striped bass at the prime of the season in the Delta.

I've also become rather adept (knock wood) at towing on a short tow (1/2 boat length) in the benign conditions of the CA Delta. It's nice to have the option to tow safely vs. lifting it all aboard. Whenever I traverse 2+ ft waters, I hoist her on the step to alleviate the worry or wet dink.

I hope you are able to enjoy your fine vessel as much as anyone here on TF. She looks incredibly well suited for your style of cruising. If you ever decide to take up diving or fishing, you won't need to buy another boat!

Cheers from the Kalifornia Delta!

Thanks Al, much appreciated. It`s exciting after 10 years of the old boat and 3 yrs looking to find this one.Our Covid boating restrictions are over for now but stopped us for quite some time. We`ve docked for fuel and reverse parked without incident so far. I just received the snap davit kit, now to fit it them. Reckon the 2 edge fixings could be coach screws, there looks to be a solid edge to the swim platform without access underneath to through bolt it?

Our dinghy motor is a 12kg Merc 3.3 which is easily handled. The new 2.6M inflatable is 30kg.

Going into winter, low pressure systems both sides of the country,strong winds blowing the oysters off the rocks, huge surf, 10M waves offshore, not great boat weather for now.

You had a great Covid cruise on the Delta! Safer than almost anyone I`d guess. Thanks for the tips.

Brucie, I forgot to mention that I admire that your helm is of the "proper" side of your vessel!!! So often, you mates down south get it 'wrong' in both land and sea vessels!

Is it as weird for you to drive a boat from stbd as to drive a car from port?

When the bad wx approaches in a low pressure system like the one approaching now, it's a CW rotation to you, right...not CCW (as viewed from above...I know you're a lawyer!)? How'd you get that wrong, too?

I can drive a car just as badly from the left or right. But it works better if I sit on the side where the controls are.. Wonder if last year`s 30 days of car hire in Europe will be the last?
Our first powerboat, Australian designed by Clem Masters, had a port helm; the IG and the Integrity are unsurprisingly both stbd. Easier to dock on the helm side, other than that doesn`t matter a bit.
Where did I get cw/ccw wrong "TOO"? I was chatting with my nephew in Perth, they`re getting hammered by 2 lows meeting up, we`ve just got the one. What difference does rotation make?(I`m going to regret asking that).

Just ribbing you b/c in the southern hemisphere, low pressure circulation is CW but for us 'Northerners", it's CCW. It's not your fault...I blame Coriolis for his Coriolis effect..

Beautiful boat. Anxiously aaiting for the rest of the pics....ER, galley, head, etc.

Yesterday I unscrewed the purely decorative 3 x 1 ft teak strips adjacent to the nav light backing plate(also teak). They do nothing except sit there deteriorating. Eventually I`ll remove them entirely when I have to do some painting.
Stbd side unscrewed ok. Port side the top 2 unscrewed ok, but the 3rd/bottom one, water drained from the screw holes. Uh oh. The screws go into a backing panel I can see from inside the locker with doors under the FB helm area. I think the cause is a leak at the horn attachment to the side of the FB which the Surveyor noted,but obviously it`s been leaking long enough to cause the equivalent of a wet core.Next job is to pull the horns off and do some sealing. Not sure how to dry it out, if I remove the horns and leave the holes to air I`ll get more water in from rain. Ah, the joys of boats.

Maybe inside the cabinet drill a series of holes and find the wet core. Then tap the holes so you can screw in some fittings and hook a manifold to the holes. Use a shop vac to suck out the moisture. Then fill the holes.

Good thought. I`ll look at it again,it takes time to think how to try dealing with it.