Salon door wheels

I’ve removed the rolling salon door on my 1974 Grand Banks 32. I would like to replace the wheels that the door rides on. I cant figure out how the remove them from the door. There is an adjustment screw that raises and lowers the wheel height. I’m hoping someone else has done this and can help me out. Thanks!
I’ll post a picture.

Mine were not like that. But you can see how I replaced them at my blog, grandbankschoices.

You will likely have to improvise with something like these. It is a project that I have been avoiding mainly because the varnish on the surrounding area was redone by the prior owner and is in great shape. I appreciate the nice varnish every time I struggle with the door.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Diameter...Door-Sliding-Pulley-Rollers-3pcs/352622631110

Thanks for your responses. The groove that the wheel rides in is only about 1/4” wide so I’m limited in what I can use as a replacement wheel. I think what I’m going to do is to leave the existing wheels in place and fasten a length of Teflon bar next to each one so that the Teflon rides on the bronze track instead of the wheels. Could work. Then if I find an answer to my wheel puzzle I can always remove the Teflon and replace the wheels.
Thanks again.

Salon door stuck!

Hi Mike and all,

My salon door is stuck part way open/closed. Is it the top varnished exterior trim above the door that has to come off, or both the top and bottom trim on the exterior that has to come off to get the door out? And I too just finished having the trim all nicely vanished.

Any and all help appreciated!

Thanks!

Ska'ana
GB32-296

I reolaced the wheels on the salon door in my 1977 Cakifonian with Teflon sliders from home depot. Worked like a charm and worked at least two years before I sold.. and, since I haven't heard about them, I'm betting 2 more years since.

Skaana said:

Hi Mike and all,

My salon door is stuck part way open/closed. Is it the top varnished exterior trim above the door that has to come off, or both the top and bottom trim on the exterior that has to come off to get the door out? And I too just finished having the trim all nicely vanished.

Any and all help appreciated!

Thanks!

Ska'ana
GB32-296

Click to expand...

Welcome aboard. Do you have some photos so we can see what type of sliding door you have? Also maybe of any visible hardwate.

Skalana-
Sorry I’m late to reply .
On my boat, there are several small screws on the trim at the bottom of the door. Once the screws and that trim were removed the door swung out from the bottom.

Pix and Pin

Hi all,

Well after having to leave the door half ajar all night, I actually got it to close this morning - and open! A pin fell to the deck though. I'm thinking it's a guide pin for the top groove? You'll see in the pix the wood that's been chewed up from trying to get the door to slide.

My headboard has a split and four obvious plugs on the port half. The other half of the headboard and the baseboard do not have any obvious plugs or screw holes. I'm thinking my 1972 GB has the door pulled by removing the port half of the headboard?

And before I pull that, I'd like to know the workings of it all. Have any of you seen this pin before? I'll attach pictures of all.

Without that pin tearing apart the wood above and the door opening and closing much easier now, I may wait until I get home from my trip out to fix everything.

Thanks again for anything you can offer!

Ska'ana

I finally slid mine along and tried to remove at different places by lifting and pulling out at the bottom. I found a spot where it popped out. Probably by mistake rather than by design.

The old brass wheels were glunked in place with oil and dirt. Because they couldn't roll, they had rubbed a big flat spot on each. I removed them and fitted in a 2mm hard plastic strip cut to jam into place in the groove. Slides much easier. Not perfect, but getting better. Some teflon/silicone lubricant would probably help. Much quieter than my helm door which still has the brass wheels working for the moment.

Reinstall meant finding the right place again. No damage to varnish, so much easier than I had anticipated.

Thank you, Marco! I wondered if our unusual heat in the past few swelled things a bit here in the PNW! I'll look to see if I'll be as lucky as you in not having to take off the headboard. Worth a look!!

Your wheels were on the bottom of the door, correct? Did you have these pins also?

No pins that could fall out. Mine were made of a rough cast brass casing and a brass wheel about 1 inch and inset into the door and held in place with tiny screws. Very similar to the wheels I linked to above, except in brass. The hole in which they were inset was obviously done by hand tools. The wheel axles or pins could not fall out because of the way the wheels fit tightly in the recessed pockets. I could see where retrofitting new wheels might be tedious so I went with the simple plastic strip.

This is all interesting.
My ‘74 has Bakelite wheels and flat Bakelite tabs at the top track.
Marco Flamingo- have you noticed if water accumulates in the track between the plastic strips?

When I rebuilt my doors and track I used 1/2” thick black UHMW that I bought from McMaster Carr. I counter sunk the screw holes in UHMW and screwed it to the bottom of the track. If they get a little sticky I just wax the UHMW.

Mike GB32 said:

This is all interesting.
My ‘74 has Bakelite wheels and flat Bakelite tabs at the top track.
Marco Flamingo- have you noticed if water accumulates in the track between the plastic strips?

Click to expand...

No water issues. The plastic strip is pushed into the groove on the bottom of the door and rides on the original brass track. Everything still drains the same.