Permission to come aboard?

FoxtrotCharlie said:

That 'domestic marine transportation company' where you work wouldn't happen to be Dixie Marine? If so I was formerly one of your bankers - back in the early to mid 90's. I was head of our transportation finance dept - trains, boats and planes - fun times.

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That is one of the heritage companies under our umbrella, but we are known by the parent corporate name now.

Parrothedd said:

We too own a Grand Banks, a 1989 46’ that we try to keep looking new.

We also own and manage a not for profit organization, Boatwatch.org, whose mission is to assist in the search for overdue and missing vessels worldwide.

Check out our website sometime. I would enjoy chatting about your GB.

Glenn
941-456-5070

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Your organization Boatwatch.org is amazing. Founded in 2001 !
Congratulations & good luck

HONUHYC said:

They are Naiad hydraulic tab stablizers. They work well to eliminate rolling while underway. Does that answer your question?

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Quite, thank you.

HONUHYC said:

Not John Deeres. They are Ford Lehman 120s. Normally red, but some that were marinized at the Grand Banks factory were painted gold. That is the story I have heard, so I am sticking with it. I would prefer the red myself but as long as I can buy duplicolor universal gold engine paint, I guess I am OK.

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Here's the color the FL120s were painted circa 1972 on my GB 42 hull 295 built Hong Kong.

rgano said:

Here's the color the FL120s were painted circa 1972 on my GB 42 hull 295 built Hong Kong.

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Clean engine room !
Built Hong Kong so she was a woody.

Pilou said:

Clean engine room !
Built Hong Kong so she was a woody.

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And a dry bilge!

Welcome to TF! During your first year on the forum you will need to agree with everything I post and send me money each month as a token of your appreciation. In the alternative, having your boat delivered to my marina for my use would be acceptable.
Nice GB! Welcome. This place is an incredible resource. Bill

Those heat exchanger caps rely on crown to seal around the edges, and caps can get flattened out from over tightening.
You can carefully work some crown back into them with a ball peen hammer.
Reinstall with new gaskets, Tony Athens recommendation is to use Rector Seal #5 to insure seal. Don’t overtighten when reinstalling!
New heat exchanger gaskets are an annual maintenance item on my boat, along with raw water impellers.
That may be overkill, but I see it as cheap insurance!

moparharn said:

Welcome to TF! During your first year on the forum you will need to agree with everything I post and send me money each month as a token of your appreciation. In the alternative, having your boat delivered to my marina for my use would be acceptable.
Nice GB! Welcome. This place is an incredible resource. Bill

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I grovel in your general direction, sir!

kapnd said:

Those heat exchanger caps rely on crown to seal around the edges, and caps can get flattened out from over tightening.
You can carefully work some crown back into them with a ball peen hammer.
Reinstall with new gaskets, Tony Athens recommendation is to use Rector Seal #5 to insure seal. Don’t overtighten when reinstalling!
New heat exchanger gaskets are an annual maintenance item on my boat, along with raw water impellers.
That may be overkill, but I see it as cheap insurance!

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Thanks for the insight. The new gaskets were delivered on Friday, along with the new lube oil coolers. I may wait for a few weeks before breaking things apart. We have opening day, christening and a boat parade at our club over the Memorial Day weekend (all socially distanced). After all the time my wife spent making new curtains and buying new rugs, we will not have an "open boat" as part of the festivities. Just in case I get into this and decide to start ripping things apart and take them out for cleaning or replacement, I want to get this little bit of steaming behind me. Experience tells me that once I am into it, something will go wrong or I will find something else I don't like and want to replace while I am in there, so doing it the night before the parade is not a good idea.

I thought I had a pretty clean engine and engine room, but seeing some of the photos people have posted has shown me I have a lot of work to do. I am already assembling the materials to get after the rust and other corrosion and make things look better. My plan is to leave some bare metal on the lube coolers under the bracket and put some penetrox in there to ensure it is well bonded with the engine. Hopefully that will lessen corrosion, but still allow all visible surfaces to be painted.