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Robt Beebe 49-10 Passagemaker in steel for sale

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
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Thermostat should get it up to temp regardless. My guess would be that the pump can't push against enough head, so it wouldn't get enough coolant flow and either the keel cooler wouldn't be effective enough or the low flow rate would cause hot spots in the engine.

Pretty much correct. Even though the keel cooler piping is pretty much horizontal with respect to the pump, it's volume is such that it acts like there is a lot of vertical head. The small Sherwood raw water pump doesn't have enough power to push water through the large volume keel cooler. This causes the engine to overheat because it's not getting enough cooling water. When we first bought the boat I considered adding an larger off-engine pump with enough volume to use the keel cooler, but the heat exchanger worked just fine and I had other projects that I wanted to do. So, after 20 years of cruising, I just never got "a-round-tuit".
 
Why would the raw water pump be used for a keel cooler? I'd expect a single fresh water loop with no heat exchanger. Raw water pump wouldn't go in that loop, as rubber impellers don't like heat. It likely would need a booster pump to help the stock fresh water pump out.
 
MOJO,
Beebe designed such sweet cruisers and it's so strange that the previous owner installed a fire-breathing dragon 250hp engine. I would hope that your new owner pulls the turbo off that 6B and de-rates it down to about 80-100 hp, which would be perfectly loaded for a nice 7.5 knot cruise around the world.
 
MOJO,
Beebe designed such sweet cruisers and it's so strange that the previous owner installed a fire-breathing dragon 250hp engine. I would hope that your new owner pulls the turbo off that 6B and de-rates it down to about 80-100 hp, which would be perfectly loaded for a nice 7.5 knot cruise around the world.

The 6BT engine is so reliable that I don’t understand why you would want to do that. I don’t think you lose much, if any, efficiency with the turbo. Don’t get me wrong, I think N/A Diesel engines are wonderful.
 
De-turboing and de-rating the 6BTA won't make it any more efficient (and might actually make it slightly less efficient at some power settings, as turbos and diesels go well together for efficiency). Plus, 250hp isn't pushing it at all for a 6BTA, so especially considering it's not going to be run hard all the time, it'll still live a very long life at that rating.

Cummins gives a 250hp 6BTA a medium continuous rating, which they describe as full power for up to 6 out of 12 hours of runtime, the rest at least 200 rpm below rated and expected use of up to 3000 hours per year. If they expect good durability at that power level in that usage, I wouldn't be even remotely worried about durability in lighter use.
 
According to the owner's statement, the engine calculates at about 45hp at 7.5 knots, which is a good ocean-crossing speed. So the engine is running at about 20% power output. That's not healthy for an old school mechanical engine.
 
According to the owner's statement, the engine calculates at about 45hp at 7.5 knots, which is a good ocean-crossing speed. So the engine is running at about 20% power output. That's not healthy for an old school mechanical engine.

I can't see the same engine rated at a lower output being any more or less happy with putting out 45hp compared to now.
 
This is a great boat that with a couple of fairly modest changes would suit almost any voyager.

Personally, a change that altered the boarding platform ladder from vertical to a stair, probably from stbd to port and a change in the "cargo hold" ladder would make it a easy first choice and a fantastic value.

As it is, I'd still envy anyone in the position to capitalize on the opportunity.
Best luck with the sale, and condolences of having to let go of such a great yacht.
 
Thermostat should get it up to temp regardless. My guess would be that the pump can't push against enough head, so it wouldn't get enough coolant flow and either the keel cooler wouldn't be effective enough or the low flow rate would cause hot spots in the engine.

Why would the raw water pump be used for a keel cooler? I'd expect a single fresh water loop with no heat exchanger. Raw water pump wouldn't go in that loop, as rubber impellers don't like heat. It likely would need a booster pump to help the stock fresh water pump out.

The standard Cummins engine fresh water circulating pump is definitely too small to move the water in the keel cooler. But, plumbing in either an electric or belt driven booster pump would solve the problem. It just never became a necessity since the heat exchanger dry stack combo has worked so well.
 
MOJO,
Beebe designed such sweet cruisers and it's so strange that the previous owner installed a fire-breathing dragon 250hp engine. I would hope that your new owner pulls the turbo off that 6B and de-rates it down to about 80-100 hp, which would be perfectly loaded for a nice 7.5 knot cruise around the world.

Well, a 5.9 6BTA is hardly a fire breathing dragon by modern engine standards, but yes, it's max hp is more than needed to run the boat, even at hull speed. When we purchased her, I hired a Cummins factory tech to come inspect the installation and survey the engine, including a sea trial. I shared your concern about being over-powered based on listening to all the "experts" in the bars and walking the docks. When I asked him about removing the turbo and after-cooler to make it a normally aspirated engine, he looked at me like I was nuts. He said, "Why would want to do that? The turbo significantly improves the fuel efficiency of the engine, why throw money away." He also said, "Based on how you're using this engine, (1500-1600 rpm) I doubt you'll ever have a problem with it. If anything, you may want to run it at about 1800 to get even more efficiency out of the turbo and your miles per gallon will probably improve. But, you're not hurting the engine in the least." We occasionally do run her at 1800 which gives us 8 to 8.5 kts but I've never taken the time to actually measure miles per gallon so I don't know if that's more efficient or not.
 
Well, a 5.9 6BTA is hardly a fire breathing dragon by modern engine standards, but yes, it's max hp is more than needed to run the boat, even at hull speed. When we purchased her, I hired a Cummins factory tech to come inspect the installation and survey the engine, including a sea trial. I shared your concern about being over-powered based on listening to all the "experts" in the bars and walking the docks. When I asked him about removing the turbo and after-cooler to make it a normally aspirated engine, he looked at me like I was nuts. He said, "Why would want to do that? The turbo significantly improves the fuel efficiency of the engine, why throw money away." He also said, "Based on how you're using this engine, (1500-1600 rpm) I doubt you'll ever have a problem with it. If anything, you may want to run it at about 1800 to get even more efficiency out of the turbo and your miles per gallon will probably improve. But, you're not hurting the engine in the least." We occasionally do run her at 1800 which gives us 8 to 8.5 kts but I've never taken the time to actually measure miles per gallon so I don't know if that's more efficient or not.

Let us not forget, efficiency also depends upon hull design, initial displacement, fuel and water loading plus food and spare parts. Two identical boats, same fuel and water loading..... I doubt they get the same gph due to all the other crap we put on board LOL
 
Let us not forget, efficiency also depends upon hull design, initial displacement, fuel and water loading plus food and spare parts. Two identical boats, same fuel and water loading..... I doubt they get the same gph due to all the other crap we put on board LOL


Seriously?!? Dan, I'll have you know that those 8 scuba tanks were ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL to be on our last boat at all times . . . Along with the stuffed 5' tall Giraffe . . . please don't ask . . . :D
 
You guys keep some weird things onboard...
... I used to keep my mounted red fox from my Wyoming hunt [emoji846]
 
Hello, a couple quick questions...

Do the AC units reverse cycle for heat or is there another provision for cabin heating?

What is the black tank capacity?

Thanks...
 
Hello, a couple quick questions...

Do the AC units reverse cycle for heat or is there another provision for cabin heating?

What is the black tank capacity?

Thanks...

Thanks for your interest in MOJO!

MOJO has 2 16K BTU ac/heat systems and one 24K BTU system. Each has an electric heating coil for heat, they are not reverse cycle. Unlike reverse cycle systems which do not provide heat in water temperatures below about 40 degrees F, we have found the electric heat in these units works very well, providing warm air at any water or air temperature.

I'm not positive, but I believe the holding tank is 50 gal.
 
Thanks for your interest in MOJO!

MOJO has 2 16K BTU ac/heat systems and one 24K BTU system. Each has an electric heating coil for heat, they are not reverse cycle. Unlike reverse cycle systems which do not provide heat in water temperatures below about 40 degrees F, we have found the electric heat in these units works very well, providing warm air at any water or air temperature.

I guess you have a 50amp boat?
How much do the electric coils draw?
 
Yes, it is a 220v 50 amp boat. The 16K BTU units draw about 15 amps each. I haven't measured the per leg draw of the 24K BTU, but with a 9 KW 220v generator I can run all 3 units with no problem.
 
Mojo, have you had a broker give you an honest, unbiased idea of where the boat should be priced?

The impression I’ve gained from your many posts on various threads is that you’re a very attentive owner and this boat is very personal. That’s wonderful but it leads to emotional pricing, and this is honestly a bit esoteric of a boat.
 
"es·o·ter·ic: adj: intended for or likely to be understood by only a small number of people with a specialized knowledge or interest."

Yes, MOJO probably does fit that definition. But for those who do understand her, she's a lot of boat for the money. The asking price is per the recommendation of Virginia Yacht Brokers.
 
MoJo for sale @ $ 129,000.oo

I went to your web sit & saw the new pricing you have listed there.

$ 129,000.00 ----- I would recommend updating this thread with this new pricing.

That is a good price starting point & if we were not headed in to a COVID-19 recession I think it would sell in the 6 digits price range.

Be sure to say you taking other offers as well, as this boat checks a lot of the boxes for serious cruisers.

Good luck with the sale.

Alfa Mike
 
MOJO wrote, "for those who do understand her, she's a lot of boat for the money."

That's inarguable, and after all, MOJO only needs one buyer. Someone is going to wind up with a terrific vessel.
 
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