matching Teak color

I had to replace some teak on the bulk head of my trawler The rest of the salon's teak is like a deep orange color I am trying to come as close as possible to matching . what stain and or varnish should I try to use on the veneer to match .. any ideas ??? thank you

Kev:

I once thought there was no way to match the teak color of my Krogen interior after a shower hose disconnected and caused some water damage to a veneer panel in the companionway. I was told the same by other woodworkers. Then I met Shipshop in Ft. Pierce, FL. They had a talented guy that could diagnose the stain by just looking at it, and he just kept doing it job after job.

Keep looking and get a talented individual who can do this for you. In the end, it will save you a lot of grief.

Interested in also fixing water-stained interior wood around the windows in my salon. If anyone PNW TFer's know of someone up here who is good at wood rehab, please let me know.

I have matched teak stain a few times over the years. If you can find a small paint store that mixes stain, you may be able to purchase pigment. The teak I matched was on a 1975 uniflite and was pretty red, so I think I used a fair amount of umber.

More recently, I've matched stain on several wood working projects by purchasing multiple colors of minwax oil based stain and just mixing trial and error. You will also have a challenge on the finish if there is a poly urethane or other topcoat on the teak. It must be removed completely. If the panel is plywood, difficult to do without damaging the veneer layer.

Start light and go darker with the stain. Other direction doesn't work. Patience is key. All woods take stain differently due to their underlying color.

Good luck
Peter

All good advice. I would add, don't use Minwax brand stain on anything that you are going to finish with Cetol or epoxy.

I second the suggestion to stay away from Minwax, I believe they are waterbased.
I have been using ZAR stains for years to match my Taiwanese trawlers inside woodwork. It is oil based and absorbs over time, meaning if you need a light tint you wipe on and off quickly. If you need a darker tint then you leave it on longer and it gets darker with time. Cetols and varnishs work nicely with ZAR due to being oil based as well.
I use "Cherry" stain.

Minwax, like most brands these days, offers water or oil based stain. I was quite specific in stating oil based.

I have matched many wood finishes over the years, including mahogany and teak on boats. It normally takes 3-4 colors and some sort of light base with a fair amount of trial and error to get it right

TJM said:

I second the suggestion to stay away from Minwax, I believe they are waterbased.
I have been using ZAR stains for years to match my Taiwanese trawlers inside woodwork. It is oil based and absorbs over time, meaning if you need a light tint you wipe on and off quickly. If you need a darker tint then you leave it on longer and it gets darker with time. Cetols and varnishs work nicely with ZAR due to being oil based as well.
I use "Cherry" stain.

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Agree
I have had good results with Zar teak stain on cherry and also avoid Minwax.

I have replaced a few pieces of teak, in places that get lots of sun exposure and in places that get little. I didn't bother to try matching the colour, as I didn't think I would succeed.
Turned out that I needn't have had any concern, as the sun has changed the colour of the new teak to match the old in all areas, in only a year or 2.
Just use patience.

where can you buy Zar oil base stain Cherry most are out of stock I need it to have red/orange tone to it

KEVMAR said:

where can you buy Zar oil base stain Cherry most are out of stock I need it to have red/orange tone to it

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You might try a paint store.
Most big box stores carry Minwax.

Bacchus said:

You might try a paint store.
Most big box stores carry Minwax.

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ZAR has a great web site including a store locator.
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Good stuff!

I use Awlwood yellow primer mixed 30%to clear primer. To blend a small stain I layered a thin coat to shade it in.

Then covers with Awlwood satin. Came out perfect.

The drawers are newly installed African Mahogany. The doors on either side are original 1990 teak doors. To match the color I used sedona red stain mixed with pine.

Not to steel your thread - but a related issue - Anyone tried to repair a paneling separation by injecting epoxy between layers clamping or vacuum? I have a small (6" dia) spot next to hatch/passage way that is other wise undamaged.