Shower sump wiring

My OLD boat needs an upgraded shower sump system. My current system has its own dedicated breaker on the electrical panel and a manual / auto switch in each head. I would like to eliminate the separate switch in the head. That would eliminate a few long wire runs.
I like the new shower sump boxes currently available. Currently I have a fiberglass trough that is a mess and impossible to clean.
Does anybody see a problem with running 12 VDC wires directly from the sump pump breaker to the new sump box float/pump assembly ?
This would bypass my current manual / auto switch in each of the heads.

No, in my opinion that would be the preferred method. Why run the extra long wire and the accompanying voltage drop? Leave the sump auto on and it will run as needed.

My boat is wired directly from the breaker. There is no manual/auto switch for the shower sump just an indicator light when the float switch actuates the pump.

Mine is wired to the float switch thru the on/off switch. The advantage this offers is being able to manually operate the shower pump when (not if) float switch fails. Your wiring should be from the breaker to the on/off switch, I don't think you be able to eliminate a long wire run.

i don't have the on/off switch, just yhe float switch in the sump.
John

I did exactly that on both shower sumps in my old boat.

I run directly from the main panel. No need for an on and off switch.

I carry a spare pump and float switch for backup but have not needed them in 20 years.

The key is to clean the sump periodically, especially the pump. If you remove the pump (mine is a Rule) from it's strainer and remove the hair wound around the impeller often, it will reduce the chance of the accumulated hair jamming the impeller and burning up the pump motor.

Also clean the hose from pump to thru-hull and the built in check valve. A build up of soap scum in the hose and/or check valve will restrict the water movement and cause the pump to work too hard. I disconnect the hose at the pump, connect it to a hose from the dock and run water at pressure to clean out the scum.

I also run the water hose into the shower drain to free soap scum and hair trapped in the hose between shower drain and pump sump. Bleach poured into the shower drain will eliminate any order emanating from the drain, sump and hose.

"i don't have the on/off switch, just yhe float switch in the sump."

The danger of the pump coming on when the boat is not occupied could be really dead batteries .

A good marine switch is only a couple of bucks.I would also wire in an in operation light. And leave it OFF when not showing.

FF said:

"i don't have the on/off switch, just yhe float switch in the sump."

The danger of the pump coming on when the boat is not occupied could be really dead batteries .

A good marine switch is only a couple of bucks.I would also wire in an in operation light. And leave it OFF when not showing.

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When I'm not on the boat, the house battery is turned off via on/off switch. Only active circuit is bilge pumps.

Have you considered getting rid of the box/float/pump and installing an in-line pump to pump the shower water directly overboard? Controlled by a simple switch- on when you get in - off when done. We have that system now in both heads and I am so happy to be free of box cleaning, float failure, hair in the pump impeller, etc.
Pump is a Jabsco ParMax 2.9 GPM # 31600-0092.
There is a small Jabsco Pumpgard strainer in-line before the pump -#45400-0000. Screw-off top - easy to clean mesh.

syjos said:

When I'm not on the boat, the house battery is turned off via on/off switch. Only active circuit is bilge pumps.

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Ditto

"When I'm not on the boat, the house battery is turned off via on/off switch. Only active circuit is bilge pumps."


That is called an "always hot bus" and is usually protected and controlled with a slow blow fuse. Bilge pups , smoke alarm and perhaps intruder alarm.