• Trawler Forum Classified Posting Guidelines
    • We expect ads placed to be related to the topic of this forum.
    • Ads that are inactive for 180 days or longer may be moved to the Classified Archive and locked. Ads may be relisted if the item is still current. Alternatively, owners may contact a Moderator to reinstate an archived ad.
    • The Classified section is for advertising, members are asked to refrain from posting discussions to a Classified Ad. Please start a discussion thread or PM the owner for discussions.
    • Do not hijack another member's ad by posting unsolicited commentary. Example: if a member has posted an ad offering an anchor for sale, don't add a post to his thread stating that you have an anchor you'd like to get rid of also. Posts deemed as unsolicited commentary may be removed.
    • For your own security, do NOT include your e-mail or phone number in your ad. Instead request that interested parties contact you via PM (private message) to provide owners contact info.
    • Brokers, Dealers, or those with a commercial interest in a sale are prohibited from posting in Classifieds.
    • Only Trawler Forum Commercial Members may post ads in the Commercial section. You must be a designated Commercial Member to start threads in this section of the forum. (Contact a moderator if you have questions about this)
    • Don't post links to commercial sites where you are also offering the boat, such as eBay, Craigslist or Yachtworld, etc. unless it contains a more in-depth description, additional information or pictures.
    • Place only one ad per item (you may repost only when your ad has expired and been removed).
    For Sale ads MUST include:
    • Asking price
    • Location
    • A Basic Description
    • Clear statement whether you are the owner or non-owner (posting for friend, relative, or acquaintance)
    • Don't forget to select: FOR SALE, WANTED or FREE in the Title block.
    All ads should also include ALL the following:
    • Pertinent maintenance and condition information
    • Exterior picture or pictures
    • Interior picture or pictures (boats)
    For maximum impact & exposure, it is suggested the Ad Title include: Year, Manufacturer, Model, Length, Price, and Location or at the very top of the ad body. When your item has sold or the ad is no longer relevant: Please post a Reply to the ad that the item is SOLD or click "Report Post" on post 1 of the thread to ask a moderator to archive the ad. Ads may be moved or removed by our staff at any time for any reason. All ads must comply with site rules. Thanks for your cooperation.
  • Avoid Scams.

    Our classifieds are free and anyone registered here is welcome to post an ad.
    Be aware that there are unscrupulous folks out there. Avoid any interaction that seems odd to you or �feels� wrong. Inquiries from unknown buyers, buyers �agents� and other non-traditional approaches should be treated with extreme caution.

    Beware of unsolicited contacts offering to put you in touch with someone else who is buying or selling via e-mail or text.

    Do not post your e-mail address or phone number in a classifieds ad.

    Hints that you may be dealing with a Scammer:
    • Seller or Buyer approaches you via a direct email or PM and then steers you to an off-site communication method (text or email).
    • No posts or very few forum posts.
    • Recent forum membership
    • Insists on conducting negotiations via email or text rather than PM
    • Requires payment via Bank Transfer, BitCoin/CryptoCurrency, WesternUnion or other unsecured method.
    • Buyer or Seller suggests Paypal "Friends and Family" payment. Paypal is a good way to arrange payment but an invoice for goods and services should be used rather than "Friends and Family". "Friends and Family" avoids fees BUT there is no recourse if the transaction runs aground. Friends and Family is for gifts only. There is no protection for Friends and Family transactions, so never ever use it to buy something.
    • Declines to allow viewing the item before proceeding with the transaction.

Robt Beebe 49-10 Passagemaker in steel for sale

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Status
Not open for further replies.
9/30/19: MOJO is still for sale. Asking price has been lowered to $169,900. We've just completed another successful 1,200+ nm summer cruise to New England. Interested buyers please see www.mvmojo.com Click on the links at the top or bottom of each page for interior, exterior and mechanical photo tours of MOJO.
 
Best of luck. Mojo is a great looking long range cruiser.
 
What has happened with MOJO? I assume still for sale. Love her but not in my range yet and wife will need convincing on such a large vessel.
I love it!
 
MOJO is seriously for sale!

Professionally painted top to bottom August 2018.

Please see www.mvmojo.com for lots of pictures - click the links at the top or bottom of each page, i.e., "Exterior Tour", "Interior Tour", etc.

Asking price is $189,900 but we're open to any serious offer.

Currently lying on the South side of the Potomac River in Virginia with plans to cruise to New England for the summer. MOJO is a true "Little Ship", designed by Robert P. Beebe, author of "Voyaging Under Power". Many more details on the web site, www.mvmojo.com

Contact is mvmojoforsale@gmail.com.

Look at all these beautiful boats, I am glad I have a boat. If not, I would be flying around the country looking at boats. SMILE
Good luck selling your boat. SMILE :):)
 
m/v MOJO - New Lower Asking Price $129,000

We've lowered our asking price to $129,000. We're at a time in our lives health wise where we need to see MOJO with new owners! Please see our web site, www.mvmojo.com. Any questions or inquiries can be directed to mvmojoforsale@gmail.com or to Chuck Grice at Virginia Yacht Brokers, www.vayacht.com. Chuck can also be reached at (757) 287-6344.
 
Last edited:
Out of the market for the time being

Dear Mojo,

Great boat and wonderful deal for someone. For the next 2-4 years I will be out of the market while saving up for that full time liveaboard bluewater vessel for retirement.

Good Luck with the Sale.

Captain DJ
 
What a handsome vessel, and well sorted-out. Seems about perfect for anyone wanting to spend significant time under power outside the jetties.

These Beebe designs are inspiring, and Mojo is a great example of the dreams that sustain our Trawler Forum in the first place.
 
Man, for someone who really wanted to go places, not just up and down the ICW, this would be an ideal boat IMO.
 
Beebe said in "Voyaging Under Power" (1st ed.) that ideally you would have both paravanes & hydraulic stabilizers but if you could only have one he'd strongly recommend paravanes. Hydraulics could be added to MOJO fairly easily, plenty of room in the bilges.

Much of the interior is cherry, which we prefer (and is MUCH cheaper) than teak. But given the interior layout, there are infinite possibilities!

Cherry is good too. SMILE
 
Isn't life amazing ?

Everyone has different likes and wants.

Everything about this boat makes me want to puke !


This is a classified ad for this boat. Have some respect and keep the negative comments to yourself.
 
Isn't life amazing ?
Everyone has different likes and wants.
Everything about this boat makes me want to puke !

Really! ?

Some people on here and your ignorant comments! I assume your a grown man, think before you open your bloody mouth...

Troy
 
Back to the original post, it makes me feel emotional thinking this little piece of history was designed by Mr. Beebe and part of his collection of designs. Who hasn’t been inspired by his book? I feel the same when I read Jimmy Cornell’s books in sailing. Those big men!
 
What is the thickness of the hull/cabin sides? Also, do you have any idea why the keel coolers were taken out of service?

Are the fuel tanks original? Material and thickness? Any issues with tanks, and do they have inspection port access? Thanks.
 
Isn't life amazing ?
Everyone has different likes and wants.
Everything about this boat makes me want to puke !

Looked up a Finn 8. Almost the same layout as MOJO. Just half as long. LWL envy. Or is this a case of Aussie humor ?? if it is well done !!

Really wish someone would buy this boat so I can stop drooling over the keyboard.
 
What is the thickness of the hull/cabin sides? Also, do you have any idea why the keel coolers were taken out of service?

Are the fuel tanks original? Material and thickness? Any issues with tanks, and do they have inspection port access? Thanks.

The keel is 1" thick plate. Bottom is 1/4" steel, hull sides are 3/16" steel, cabin sides and roof are 1/8" steel. The keel cooler was used with the original Cat 13000 engine (150 hp @ 1,200 rpm, air start). Previous owner swapped it out for a more modern Cummins 5.9 6BTA. The raw water pump on the Cummins won't move enough water to circulate thru such a large keel cooler so he plumbed the engine to be cooled by sea water but maintained the dry stack exhaust. If desired, the keel cooler could be recommissioned by adding a larger off-engine circulating pump, either belt driven or electric.

Fuel tanks are steel, are original and are integral to the hull. No issues with them. All are located below the waterline. Thickness is 1/4" steel. Inspection port on all tanks.
 
Last edited:
The keel is 1" thick plate. Bottom is 1/4" steel, hull sides are 3/16" steel, cabin sides and roof are 1/8" steel. The keel cooler was used with the original Cat 13000 engine (150 hp @ 1,200 rpm, air start). Previous owner swapped it out for a more modern Cummins 5.9 6BTA. The raw water pump on the Cummins won't move enough water to circulate thru such a large keel cooler so he plumbed the engine to be cooled by sea water but maintained the dry stack exhaust. If desired, the keel cooler could be recommissioned by adding a larger off-engine circulating pump, either belt driven or electric.

Fuel tanks are steel, are original and are integral to the hull. No issues with them. All are located below the waterline. Thickness is 1/4" steel. Inspection port on all tanks.


Thanks for the reply, but request two clarifications: 1) Is the engine cooled by the raw sea water through the use of a heat exchanger? ie; is there raw sea water, or an independent cooling system with only freshwater/antifreeze running through the engine?

2) Does the outside hull plate form one of the sides of any of the fuel tanks, or are they totally separate from the outside hull? Thanks! Scot K.
 
The engine has a heat exchanger so it is fresh water/antifreeze cooled - no saltwater running through the engine! The fuel tanks are integral to the hull so yes, the hull forms the curved side of the 4 fuel tanks (2 on each side). This effectively makes a double skin hull, i.e., if there was ever a hull tear along the sides due to severe grounding, hitting a container, etc., you would spill fuel but not take on any water.
 
The engine has a heat exchanger so it is fresh water/antifreeze cooled - no saltwater running through the engine! The fuel tanks are integral to the hull so yes, the hull forms the curved side of the 4 fuel tanks (2 on each side). This effectively makes a double skin hull, i.e., if there was ever a hull tear along the sides due to severe grounding, hitting a container, etc., you would spill fuel but not take on any water.


Confusion here, if the outside hull IS the wall of the fuel tank, wouldn't it be the same thickness as the rest of the hull? ie; 3/16" or 1//4" if it is further down the hull? Not trying to be obtuse here, just trying to get a handle on the boat. I assume the different colored floor plates next to the engine come up, right? Do you have to remove them to service the engine? I am assuming there is no provision for the generator to be coupled to the mainshaft for a get home engine, correct. Probably a dumb question since the generator appears to be in front of the engine . . .
 
Yes, the hull below the waterline is 1/4" steel. That's where the fuel tanks are located so they are 1/4" steel also. Floor boards on both sides of the engine are easily lifted but essentially access batteries on the starboard side and the watermaker, sea chest plumbing, etc. on the port side. You do not have to remove the floorboards to service the engine. The generator is mounted in front of the engine so it cannot be directly coupled to the main shaft. But, it would be fairly easy to install an electric motor aft of the engine to drive the main shaft via the generator if back-up propulsion was desired.
 
Nice boat. One of my favorites here on TF.
 
That boat seems to built right. Potential buyers, don't let the fuel tanks scare you. This was the way all boats were built. skin tanks on one side, not unusual or a bad practice. Seems like a lot of boat for th money if this is your type of vessel.
 
A little confused here. Why would a lower flow rate be a problem when using the keel cooler? If too small and too high of a rate I get it but not the other way??
 
I would think the engine wouldn't come up to ideal temp if keel cooler area is too large. I'm sure owner will chime in with correct answer.
 
I would think the engine wouldn't come up to ideal temp if keel cooler area is too large. I'm sure owner will chime in with correct answer.

Thermostat should get it up to temp regardless. My guess would be that the pump can't push against enough head, so it wouldn't get enough coolant flow and either the keel cooler wouldn't be effective enough or the low flow rate would cause hot spots in the engine.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom