Jefferson 42

Nameplate is a bit faded, Looks like it is a Teleflex BA-150. Cylinder is about 13" long, diameter about 2" but I couldn't measure it. Hope this helps.

Following this thread because I hope to help Leatherneck move his boat home to Maryland in a few months.


So I plugged in Teleflex BA-150 into Google and came up with lots of hits, this being the most definitive:



https://www.freeportmarine.com/boat...eflex-hydraulic-cylinder-model-ba150-7bj.html


David

Jefferson portholes

duanegeib said:

I just purchased an 87 42 Sundeck last weekend. Will get pictures up later. Is there anyplace to purchase the porthole windows in the bow areas. One of the plastic windows is pretty banged up, i would like to replace it.

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Sorry, I have been trying to find them and the portholes in the transom. Anything close at some marine salvage yards were junk. The plastic used doesn't appear to hold up. Got quotes in the Groton, Ct area of $6K to fiberglass closeu p the portholes as I don't like the low holes in the transom. So I'm still looking, let me know if you find any alternative.

Leatherneck said:

Nameplate is a bit faded, Looks like it is a Teleflex BA-150. Cylinder is about 13" long, diameter about 2" but I couldn't measure it. Hope this helps.

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I can second the Teleflex BA-150 on mine. Can kind of make out the ID sticker in pic attached. Sorry for focus, used one in my album.

BTW, replace the front o rings on the steering pumps (wheels). They are easy to change, available at hardware stores and correct irritating leakage and priming issues.

Anyone have an autopilot pump installed? I'm adding one and interested in the plumbing needed.

Thanks

hpogue123 said:

Sorry, I have been trying to find them and the portholes in the transom. Anything close at some marine salvage yards were junk. The plastic used doesn't appear to hold up. Got quotes in the Groton, Ct area of $6K to fiberglass closeu p the portholes as I don't like the low holes in the transom. So I'm still looking, let me know if you find any alternative.

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If you can't find the exact fit replacement you can go with one slightly larger. Just need to cut out the opening slightly for the new portlite. That is what I plan to do for my Jeff 42.

slymeso44 said:

Welcome, to the family lol, your going to like her , they are great boat, solid construction and sea kindly,the big issues are the window in the aft state room and the 2 above the dinette/galley.
if you have the Perkins change the lube oil hoses even if they look good, the rubber inside get brittle due to the heat and should be change every 10 years, but they don't.
best way to wipeout an engine when all the oil goes in the bilge while your running.

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Thanks I can strongly second changing the hoses.
I should have kept current on TF forum posts and it would have saved me cleaning gallons of oil from my bilge last fall when one blew. Engine ok but sprayed all over.

BTW, also watch the fuel lines to the injector pump behind the oil filters. I was fighting the admiral's "boat smell" issues for months and finally found a pinhole leak (rust and/or vibration) on the steel pressure line, in the port engine (blind side) that sprayed a small fine mist intermittently when the engine ran. I changed both and the other side broke while removing. Replacing any of the rusted steel pressure lines. After buying one from Diesel Parts Direct for $100 (and waiting a month for delivery), I found the "push connect" flare tool on Amazon and tubing at Autozone for <$10 a line. Get a good tubing bender and some tubing to practice bending the steel tubing. You'll need it even if you order one since it isn't "drop in" replacement. It's easy after several tries learning. BTW, a local shop quoted fab at $200 a line "in a few weeks as we have the time".

Another thing to watch out for are the Westerbeke power selector switches in the AC panel. I had one burn up and kept overheating the shore power connector as well as a hard to trace "burnt plastic" smell. They seem to have marginal screw terminals that are a bear to tighten. See Blue back of switches (before burning up) and wiring mess I'm cleaning up below.

How about anyone come up with a good method to repair or faux paint the teak paneling water discoloration from the windows/ports?

try to put a picture lol, cant seem to get it

parts for Perking T6.3544M (Range4)

For anyone needing parts for Perking T6.3544M (Range4)
I just strip one to bare block as I needed a Manicooleer and a transmission cooler, It came out of a fisherman boat that was being repower so I bought both of them for next to nothing, one is being rebuilt and sold , all the other parts are for grab, the crank and cam are spotless, so are the rod and piston, timing gear, fresh water pump, injector, oil pump, are all good to go, 1/4 of the price from any site lol
just send me a note and hopefully you get a parts that you need for cheap, and I get rid of stuff lol

slymeso44 said:

For anyone needing parts for Perking T6.3544M (Range4)
I just strip one to bare block as I needed a Manicooleer and a transmission cooler, It came out of a fisherman boat that was being repower so I bought both of them for next to nothing, one is being rebuilt and sold , all the other parts are for grab, the crank and cam are spotless, so are the rod and piston, timing gear, fresh water pump, injector, oil pump, are all good to go, 1/4 of the price from any site lol
just send me a note and hopefully you get a parts that you need for cheap, and I get rid of stuff lol

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Hi Slymeso44,
Sounds like you're all over your engines!
Would you happen to have a wiring diagram of the Perkins or know what the 3 relays below go to? I'm missing the middle one on one engine but it appears to run fine.
Also happen to know a source for the Oil temp. cutout switch?
Thanks

Ièm looking for them lo I have them on both paper and electronic version

hpogue123 said:

Hi Slymeso44,
Sounds like you're all over your engines!
Would you happen to have a wiring diagram of the Perkins or know what the 3 relays below go to? I'm missing the middle one on one engine but it appears to run fine.
Also happen to know a source for the Oil temp. cutout switch?
Thanks

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I think I left the stick on the boat, here is the engine pdf for now

Found them

here you go hope you got the engine manual

I dont think the manual worked

let's try again

the file is too big

sorry , not by much, it,s only 4.5 MB

parts for diesel or TAD , best place , and they know exactly what you need with the engine serial number

Hi Guys, I would also be very interested in a "Jefferson Yacht Thread" I bought an 86 Jefferson 46 in 2017. While I live in Florida, the boat is on the Chesapeake Bay.

Welcome Engineman3rd!
I've had my '87 42 Sundeck with Perkins 4/200s for a couple years now in the Groton, CT area.
Definitely fighting the fight to fix it up.

Leaking dinette portholes

I have a 87 42 Jefferson Sundeck. I have been out two nights and have traced the leak in the portholes. At least for my boat the leak is coming from the deck rails over the bow head. I will pull them up and screw them back down with 3m 5200

I would be careful with 5200. Once stuck, it's almost impossible to remove. Butyl rubber will seal yet remain flex. Even after several years, it will keep a seal, but can be removed without tearing up the underlying structure.

There are several good threads on bedding (sealing) handrails to decks on the forum or on the web. Good luck with the Jeff and welcome to the forum.

Your looks exactly like our 48 Jefferson Rivanna. 1991. We love it.

difference on a raymarine ev-150 and ev-200

Any one knows the difference on a raymarine ev-150 and ev-200, or has install either unit on a Jefferson 42
they both use a type 1 hydraulic pump that is the right rating for my steering CYLINDER MODEL SPECIFICATION
CYLINDER MODEL STROKE VOLUME TORQUE @ 1000psi 70 bar @ 35 Degrees
BA 150-7 models 7″–178 mm 10.2 cu.in. (167cc) 7117 in/lbs (81 Kg)
there is a 1k difference between the 2 so I'm kind of leaning toward the EV-150, the only big difference between the 2 is that the 200 can also use a type 2 drive and Capilano recommend either a type 1 or type 2for that cylinder
any though from anyone on this

lol I had the same issue and did the same thing

slymeso44 said:

https://www.parts4engines.com/perkins

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URL not found

Edit: Somehow, I think I reacted to a really old post or something. Sorry!

I understand the difference to be that the ACU-200 supports rotary mechanical drives and linear drives in addition to type-1 hydraulic drives.

I think you need an ACU-400 for type 2 or type 3 drives.

If the EV-150 meets your needs, there is no advantage that I know of to a different model.

yea , I'm not sure how to ask a question ie make a new post so I kind of put it on a previous Jefferson post

slymeso44 said:

yea , I'm not sure how to ask a question ie make a new post so I kind of put it on a previous Jefferson post

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On the forum home page, scroll down and pick the sub forum that is most relates to you question. Click on it. Once there you'll see a "New Thread" button. Click it, enter a subject and a body, etc, and you'll be golden.

Posting in the rightposts. And using a short descriptive subject will get more responses because not everyone is subscribed to all forms or pays attention to all posts.