Sanitation Hose replacement

Hi all, I know this has probably been asked and answered many times but I did not find a thread. I want to replace all of my accessible sanitation hoses. Looks like some are going to be very difficult due to going through bulkheads. I have freshwater flush if that makes a difference. What is your favorite and why. I would like one as flexible as possible without giving away quality. Do you have a favorite brand and supplier? Thanks

The only sanitation hose I would use is Trident 102.

Raritan SaniFlex hose RaritanSaniFlex hose has proven to be 100% odor permeation resistant and has the added advantage of being so flexible it can be bent like a hairpin without kinking. Defender currently has it on sale for the lowest price I've eve seen: <$8/ft.

Often the easiest way to replace hoses is by connecting the old hose to the new and pulling the new hose through as you pull the old hose out. Use a male-male connector...cut the ends of both hoses as smoothly as possible, butt them together as tightly as you can to get the smoothest unbroken surface possible...."glue" the hoses onto it (duct tape won't hold if you have to pull hard, clamps can get caught). Cut the new hose off behind the connector.

Before you start, pump out and thoroughly rinse out the tank...flush gallons of water through the toilet and hoses to get them as clean as possible. Put plastic kitchen can liners under hose connections to catch any spills. Start with the highest connections to minimize spills.

--Peggie

Saniflex. Defender.

-Chris

Welcome! I agree with Peggie

Absolutely agree with Peggie. I just used some to install a new Marine Elegance head in our aft head. The hose is very flexible and easy to work with, relatively. Defender has a great price and will cut it to the foot.

ranger42c said:

Saniflex. Defender.

-Chris

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Ditto

If possible, use white PVC DWV plastic pipe where possible.

Plastic pipe will never permeate odor, even in a sewage filled low spot.

DWV pipe, long sweep elbows and fittings are available at plumbing and hardware stores.

Smooth hose adapters to connect the plastic pipe to hose is stocked in most marine stores or online. Do not use barbed hose adapters.

ranger42c said:

Saniflex. Defender.

-Chris

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Exactly. I shopped other vendors for Saniflex but checked out Defender based on Peggie's advise. Much cheaper.

Saniflex is a synthetic rubber. If you cheap out and buy PVC don't be tempted to use heat gun to make hose easier to bend. Gentle heat does make it a little easier, then 10 degrees more and the hose sags into a permanent oblong shape.

Saniflex price per foot is obscene but you get value for the price.

$8.49 per foot for premium 1 1/2” sanitation hose is obscene??? Not in my book. Replace it once and be done.

Trident 101 is about $2 a foot cheaper than 102. The only difference is it's black. It's also not as flexible as SaniFlex, but if you don't have any really tight bends it's fine. Depending on how the old hose is run you might need to cut access holes in the floor to cut zip ties and turn corners through ribs and stringers. I did. I also put the old and new hoses together with a piece of plastic pipe and 3 screws in each side so they didn't come apart in a place with no access. Not the most fun job.

syjos said:

If possible, use white PVC DWV plastic pipe where possible.

Plastic pipe will never permeate odor, even in a sewage filled low spot.

DWV pipe, long sweep elbows and fittings are available at plumbing and hardware stores.

Smooth hose adapters to connect the plastic pipe to hose is stocked in most marine stores or online. Do not use barbed hose adapters.

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Right on!!!

Least expensive and never, ever stinks. For sweeps, I used those designed for electrical wiring. They offer the least resistance to flow over the plumbing elbows. Also suggest installing at least one clean out. Sure, the terminations will require short lengths of hose measured in inches, not feet.

foggysail said:

Right on!!!

Least expensive and never, ever stinks. For sweeps, I used those designed for electrical wiring. They offer the least resistance to flow over the plumbing elbows. Also suggest installing at least one clean out. Sure, the terminations will require short lengths of hose measured in inches, not feet.

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Using electrical conduit elbows is not necessary. If you shop for DWV (Drain, Waste, Vent) PVC, long sweep elbows are available in several bend radius'.

I would not mix differing pipes and fittings.

Saving a $1.50 or even $2 per foot on sanitation hose isn’t where I would try to economize. It is a terrible job that I don’t want to do again. I would pay a premium easily for the best sanitation hose and Peggie says the Saniflex is the best. That is good enough for me.

I'll have to disagree, I had to replaced RaritanSaniFlex hose after 7 years. I've replaced it with Poly X Sanitation Hose, with a life time warranty. I can't wait to replace it and send it back.....LOL

The Brockerts

PVC drain pipe can also be heat bent to exotic shapes if required by the installation. You need a spring inside to prevent collapse. Some brands or styles of pipe seem to tolerate it better than others. The clear PVC from McMaster works very well for this - and, you can see what you had for dinner!

syjos said:

Using electrical conduit elbows is not necessary. If you shop for DWV (Drain, Waste, Vent) PVC, long sweep elbows are available in several bend radius'.

I would not mix differing pipes and fittings.

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If it works, why not?

foggysail said:

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If it works, why not?

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Why not do it correctly? There is no saving by using conduit.

And it looks tacky to have grey PVC pipe connected to white DWV pipe.

And it shows lack of pride in workmanship.

And it may be an issue at survey.

Hi again Peggie, just wondering if the sanitation hoses are usually kept in place in the inaccessible areas with fasteners or can you normally pull a hose through as you described with the old hose. Just trying to get a better idea of what I am facing. The hoses I can get to will be no problem but I would like to change the ones that I cant see or get to. I really don't want to take the flooring up or cut holes in it. Thanks, Charlie

Giggitoni said:

The only sanitation hose I would use is Trident 102.

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Seconded. A bitch to work with, but we have been happy with how it has worked out. No odor at all.

Bare Necessities said:

Hi again Peggie, just wondering if the sanitation hoses are usually kept in place in the inaccessible areas with fasteners or can you normally pull a hose through as you described with the old hose. Just trying to get a better idea of what I am facing. The hoses I can get to will be no problem but I would like to change the ones that I cant see or get to. I really don't want to take the flooring up or cut holes in it. Thanks, Charlie

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If properly installed, hoses are usually secured to prevent movement and avoid low spots for sewage to stand.

Unless the floor was installed after hoses, you should have access to whatever is securing the hose via access used at the factory.

If you are lucky, a lazy PO installed the hose without securing it.

I've used a bore scope and a utility knife blade epoxied to a long stick to reach and cut plastic fastners that are inaccessible. Then use the method described by Peggy to fish the hose. If the fastners are metal, you are out of luck.

The problem remains, how to secure the new hose.

PVC pipe does not need as much support as hose so if possible, I use that as much as possible.

syjos said:

Why not do it correctly? There is no saving by using conduit.

And it looks tacky to have grey PVC pipe connected to white DWV pipe.

And it shows lack of pride in workmanship.

And it may be an issue at survey.

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I am very satisfied with my workmanship. The different color pipes present no problems what so ever. Further their bilge locations are not viewable. My system works! It is forever stink free which is something that those using hoses cannot brag about. You plumb your boat your way, I will do the same for mine.

I purchased a new fresh water Raritan Marine Elegance toilet several months ago, plus hose. Have not installed yet - coming up soon. But I am in a quandary. There is some newer white hose around existing Galley Maid toilet/three way valve, but it connects to original 1.5"hose for long run to the tank. This hose is 30 years old and has NO smell at all. It appears to be marine exhaust hose or something similar. Original plan was to replace it all, but we have been using it for a year with no issues (except intake pump on the Galley Maid is burned up and we have to fill the toilet with the shower hose) But the original sanitation hoses are good. Any idea what they may be?? 1988 CHB Present. As a landlord I have much experience with PVC which I had planned to use as much of as possible, but am re-thinking it - why mess with something thats working? Thanks for any input.

If hoses lie along the hull AND it's a fairly long run, it's not uncommon for boat builders compound their too-long run error by securing the hoses with c-clamps or other fasteners every few feet. Not that common if the hoses run through the bilge.


--Peggie

...There is some newer white hose around existing Galley Maid toilet/three way valve, but it connects to original 1.5"hose for long run to the tank.

How long is that run? If there are any markings on that hose, I may be able to ID it...which can indicate how odor permeation resistant it is or isn't.


--Peggie

foggysail said:

I am very satisfied with my workmanship. The different color pipes present no problems what so ever. Further their bilge locations are not viewable. My system works! It is forever stink free which is something that those using hoses cannot brag about. You plumb your boat your way, I will do the same for mine.

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Per PVC Manufacturer:

One of the primary differences between PVC pipe and PVC conduit is that PVC conduit is not tested for pressure the way that PVC pipe is. This changes where PVC pipe and PVC conduit can be used, since water pressure is a major factor in the stability and durability of a plumbing system. PVC conduit is not approved for use in plumbing systems in general because the lack of pressure testing makes leaks a high probability.

PVC pipe is usually thicker than PVC conduit. Due to the fact PVC pipe is used in applications in which pressure is a factor, the increased thickness helps the PVC pipe to remain unbent and intact.

Charlie, I have a 52' (Carver) Californian. I replaced my heads with Raritan Marine Elegance toilets with touch pads and fresh/raw water option. Before I did that I replaced the holding tank and, since it was only replaceable when the tank was out, I replaced the water heater too. Peggie's advise is spot on! If you have questions about how things run contact me. I think my 52' is your boat only stretched. Steve M.

syjos said:

Per PVC Manufacturer:

One of the primary differences between PVC pipe and PVC conduit is that PVC conduit is not tested for pressure the way that PVC pipe is. This changes where PVC pipe and PVC conduit can be used, since water pressure is a major factor in the stability and durability of a plumbing system. PVC conduit is not approved for use in plumbing systems in general because the lack of pressure testing makes leaks a high probability.

PVC pipe is usually thicker than PVC conduit. Due to the fact PVC pipe is used in applications in which pressure is a factor, the increased thickness helps the PVC pipe to remain unbent and intact.

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First, schedule 40 PVC wall thickness for conduit I used in past construction projects along with my boat was not compromised over the thickness of schedule 40 plumbing rated PVC pipe. And that the manufacturers have no pressure testing requirements for electrical conduit does not compromise my system which I doubt will ever be exposed to any pressure at all.

And to be sure, the American National Standard for Uniform Plumbing codes are not applicable to boats. Also I believe one of the first things a surveyor would notice is the lack of stink not the color of hoses or pipes.

All good ideas. I'm going to replace my hose and macerator.
I was thinking of putting a ball valve in line before and after the macerator to make future pump changes easier. Any thoughts?