Paint hull on Mainship 400

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Newtrawlerowner

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2019
Messages
326
Location
USA
Vessel Name
PartnerShip II
Vessel Make
2003 Mainship 400
I'm looking at a Mainship 400 that needs some hull repairs. Mostly scratches and dings from docking. I'm thinking of painting the hull dark blue as I've seen on other boats. Anybody done this and what was the cost?
 
As you can see by my avatar, my boat is Claret Red and hard as heck to air condition in the summers here. Dark blue would be a disaster. Also, like dark colored cars, hard to keep looking good.
 
I chose green, but dark blue is good too.
 

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As you can see by my avatar, my boat is Claret Red and hard as heck to air condition in the summers here. Dark blue would be a disaster. Also, like dark colored cars, hard to keep looking good.

That's a matter of poor insulation. Not a problem with my steel hull with insulation. Fortunately, summers in SF Bay Area aren't so severe as s/se usa.
 
That's a matter of poor insulation. Not a problem with my steel hull with insulation. Fortunately, summers in SF Bay Area aren't so severe as s/se usa.

Don't think I quite agree. The insulation and air gap is generally OK. On my white wooden hull trawler, there was NO insulation inside the 1.25 inch thick mahogany, and I firmly believe the Awlgrip Snow White paint was the big decider there. Painting my current hull a much lighter color like white or pale yellow or pale blue would surely make a big difference. As it was cheaper to do and the original 7 KBtu ac rotted out, changing to a 10 KBtu ac unit has fixed fixed the problem.
 
May I ask how much you guys were quoted or paid for hull painting? Today I was quoted $75 a square foot from Harbortowne Marine just off the Tennessee River for my Navigator. Calculating the waterline to the rub rail on both sides and excluding the stern, it came to 336 square feet for a whopping total of $25,200 using Interlux.
 
May I ask how much you guys were quoted or paid for hull painting? Today I was quoted $75 a square foot from Harbortowne Marine just off the Tennessee River for my Navigator. Calculating the waterline to the rub rail on both sides and excluding the stern, it came to 336 square feet for a whopping total of $25,200 using Interlux.

Yep, I got a few quotes higher than that:banghead: So i will be rolling and tipping Alexseal as soon as spring/summer arrives.
 
May I ask how much you guys were quoted or paid for hull painting? Today I was quoted $75 a square foot from Harbortowne Marine just off the Tennessee River for my Navigator. Calculating the waterline to the rub rail on both sides and excluding the stern, it came to 336 square feet for a whopping total of $25,200 using Interlux.

We painted our hull and sideboards around the sundeck last year. I did all the fiberglass, filling and sanding before the painting. We masked the whole boat and helped the painter during the spray job. He charged me $80 per hour for 12 hours or a total of $960. We bought all the paint and supplies. He said that if he had done all the work he would have charged about $25K for the job. So you are probably in the ball park if you are not doing any of the work.
 
I'm looking at a Mainship 400 that needs some hull repairs. Mostly scratches and dings from docking. I'm thinking of painting the hull dark blue as I've seen on other boats. Anybody done this and what was the cost?

Years ago there was an article in PMM about painting with a dark color paint. There is something called post cure, or something like that. What it means is the fiberglass is still curing years and years after the boat is laid up. The dark paint heats the hull up more that a light cure and promotes the post cure phenomenon. How much of a problem is it? I don’t know but if you are going to paint a dark color on the boat, I would check it out and see if it is an issue or not.
 
Years ago there was an article in PMM about painting with a dark color paint. There is something called post cure, or something like that. What it means is the fiberglass is still curing years and years after the boat is laid up. The dark paint heats the hull up more that a light cure and promotes the post cure phenomenon. How much of a problem is it? I don’t know but if you are going to paint a dark color on the boat, I would check it out and see if it is an issue or not.


Good to know. This is an older (2003) boat so that should not be an issue.
 
Just started calling around. I'm in Florida so there are lots of painters to choose from. I painted cars for many years, so I understand the prep and product cost. The preparation is most of the cost. I'll post as soon as I get some quotes. Thanks all for the replies.
 
I posted the following last August, and I think it gives some insight into the cost of painting a hull. In this description it was ONLY about 8 square feet off hull on the stbd bow which was taken down to the primer and repainted. The rest was a buffing job.

QUOTE
While getting the bottom antifouling coat renewed, I elected to have the local boat painting company, which works out of Miller Marine boatyard here, repair some hull scratches (hurricane-caused and other miscellaneous bumps) and one larger poorly executed paint repair on the red Awlcraft sides of the boat. This company previously painted the hull of my wooden Grand Banks and also applied the million-dollar paint job on the exquisite 100-foot tall ship Columbia, built here by the owner of Eastern Shipyard. Suffice it to say, they know what they are doing.

Conventional wisdom and AwlCraft instructions would suggest you should not buff this paint, and my own messing around with nothing harsher than a paper towel and some alcohol on a dime-sized spot certainly confirmed that you can easily dull the coating, which turned out to be clear coated.

Most of the scratches which I assumed were through the paint have been buffed out by the expert using a large diameter foam pad and 3m Perfect-It EX 36060. I simply cannot find the buffed-out scratches now. The guy doing the work says that the boat has a clear coat over the red AwlCraft, not that it made any difference in his approach. He said the tip off to the clear coat was that the sanding dust was initially white until he worked through the clear.

The boat has been mostly kept under cover, but there are a few years in its early life about which the P.O. and I are uncertain. So the hull paint color falls in between Vivid Red and Claret on the Awlcraft paint chip pallet and will have to be matched in the one area of previous repair.

If he cannot match it well enough by eye, he intends to call the local National Coating Systems (NCS) store which will come up with a specialized camera and take several shots up against the hull. Then they will go mix a better match.

This all makes me a bit nostalgic for my old trawler's hull with the beveled strakes which made it easy to roll on some AwlGrip when it needed touchup. These big flat areas of fiberglass are too hard for me to deal with when it comes to paint repair.

AND LATER:

More information from the painting professionals. Except in the areas noted in my first post, my 2005 original hull paint is in excellent condition maybe in large part due to being kept under cover, but I was also warned about using Dawn and other such cleaners and the annual buffing some owners have been noted to engage in. AwlWash used on Awlgrip and Awlcraft followed by AwlCare are the ways these guys say keeps that paint looking good. The painters told me once they have finished with wet sanding (1000, 2000, and then 3000 grit foam discs followed by 3M Perfect It on a slow turning foam disc) the clear coat on the one area requiring repainting that I should apply Awlcare.

Speaking of paint color, the paint color palette I bought for Awlcraft/Awlgrip is apparently not an exact match to the actual paint in the cans. The painting company owner and I carefully looked at the palette colors in the sun against the hull and determined the color on the boat fell between Vivid Red and Claret. He made the educated guess and got Claret which matches exactly with what is on the boat.
UNQUOTE

The end product is nothing less than perfect, and the cost of the painting/buffing was $2000.
__________________
 
I would assume 15-20,000 dollars to repaint my hull by the pros.
 
Thanks for the info. Many paint sellers use the color camera you mentioned, but even then the formula gets you close but not exact. And $15k-$20k is probably close.
 
I still cannot get over how the paint right out of the can PRECISELY matched what was on the 2005 hull. However, without the highly skilled technician (calling him simply a painter does not do his work justice) blending it all together, it would not have turned out so well. Two grand well spent!
 
Got 1 quote so far. He quoted $200 linear foot. So that comes in at $8k. He added some material and time for a color change and the slight dock damage. He said without looking $12-$13k would be about right. Waiting for 2 other quotes. I'll keep you posted.
 
I brought my boat down to Ensenada MX (Niza Marine - certified training by both Awl Grip and AlexSeal) for paint, which is underway. Full paint hull, top sides, Non-skid, and flybridge. Plus 50-years of odd holes to fill (knot meter, etc.). Gelcoat was in rough shape so quite a bit of hi-build primer. And all hardware removed (and I mean ALL hardware). $25k for my Willard 36.
 
I brought my boat down to Ensenada MX (Niza Marine - certified training by both Awl Grip and AlexSeal) for paint, which is underway. Full paint hull, top sides, Non-skid, and flybridge. Plus 50-years of odd holes to fill (knot meter, etc.). Gelcoat was in rough shape so quite a bit of hi-build primer. And all hardware removed (and I mean ALL hardware). $25k for my Willard 36.

It's a long hike from FL to Ensenada.
 
It's a long hike from FL to Ensenada.

True, but Isla Mujeres isn't too far away - 350 nms from Key West. I've never had work done there, but understand there are similar attributes.
 
Wrap it.

Around 7 grand, 3 days (or so) lay time and easy to repair.
 
Wrap it.

Around 7 grand, 3 days (or so) lay time and easy to repair.
Maybe a hull. After 50-years, my boat had tons of dings, holes, epoxy splotches, and abandoned fittings. Painting my topside is a serious project. In the attached, you get a sense - the thwart bench is gone, as is the false stack (fore/aft benches replace the thwart seat). Weebles1.jpeg
 
I'm looking at a Mainship 400 that needs some hull repairs. Mostly scratches and dings from docking. I'm thinking of painting the hull dark blue as I've seen on other boats. Anybody done this and what was the cost?
Wanted to give an update on my post. I got 3 estimates. One was a flat $200 per linear foot plus plus a few extra $k for minor repairs plus primer for a color change. Total estimated $14k-$16k.

2nd estimate $12k and 3rd $14k.

All were for a color change from white to dark blue and all for Awlgrip Awlcraft paint.
All estimates were sight unseen and I'm expecting some price change once they see the boat, but it got me an idea.
 
Wanted to give an update on my post. I got 3 estimates. One was a flat $200 per linear foot plus plus a few extra $k for minor repairs plus primer for a color change. Total estimated $14k-$16k.

2nd estimate $12k and 3rd $14k.

All were for a color change from white to dark blue and all for Awlgrip Awlcraft paint.
All estimates were sight unseen and I'm expecting some price change once they see the boat, but it got me an idea.
Just so you know, I sent a few dozen pictures to get my quote for whole boat. Final quote more than doubled when I arrived. I went somewhere else and actually got it done for about the original quote.

Hope your story ends without a hitch or surprise.
 
Having owned a few smaller boats that were painted dark colors I will never own another one. Just like a black car.. every scratch, ding, water mark shows. I love the looks but not the work involved to keep it looking clean. And in a hot environment and your asking for a baking boat in the summer time !

Just my opinion.
 
Wow those are some serious numbers you guys are throwing around for some pretty glossiness.

On my big steel cruiser I used enamel which lacked the luster but was affordable and still protected it. Even without the shine the boat crossed oceans safely [emoji846].

If I get another boat I will likely switch to commercial or industrial chlorinated rubber coatings. But I prefer a more industrial look anyway.
 
Wrap it.

Around 7 grand, 3 days (or so) lay time and easy to repair.

Can a wrap give the same absolutely seamless glossy appearance around all angles including the bow and both quarters as a clear-coated Awlcraft job and look that way for near as long?
 
Wow those are some serious numbers you guys are throwing around for some pretty glossiness.

On my big steel cruiser I used enamel which lacked the luster but was affordable and still protected it. Even without the shine the boat crossed oceans safely [emoji846].

If I get another boat I will likely switch to commercial or industrial chlorinated rubber coatings. But I prefer a more industrial look anyway.

Different boats, different uses, different owners' desires. My sports car would have a whole 'nother life than my truck.
 
Having owned a few smaller boats that were painted dark colors I will never own another one. Just like a black car.. every scratch, ding, water mark shows. I love the looks but not the work involved to keep it looking clean. And in a hot environment and your asking for a baking boat in the summer time !

Just my opinion.

:thumb::thumb::thumb:
 
Have a flag blue colored hull.... Beautiful but shows every little nick and scratch. Do over would definitely be white.
 
I just did a full flag blue awlgrip job with new stripes-$11K at a good texas yard. I also had a very scratched hull and we did a lot of prep work to get it right.
 

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