I want a POWERFUL LED Flashlight

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rgano

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FROLIC
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Mainship 30 Pilot II since 2015. GB-42 1986-2015. Former Unlimited Tonnage Master
I once had an aluminum case CREE LED flashlight powered by 2 or 3 D-cell batteries with an adjustable beam width. It was so powerful that you could turn your back on it at a distance of several hundred feet and read a newspaper. But I let it go with the boat sale - duh. It was made by Marine Beam, and I see they have modified the light now. Does anybody have one of these newer models or something else as good or better they'd like to recommend?

https://store.marinebeam.com/marinebeam-ultra-long-range-led-illuminator-flashlight/
 
I ordered two supposed ultra bright flashlights off the internet before Christmas. One for me, one for my brother.

That was in November, Hmmm. Should be here soon.

pete
 
You are in luck... If there is a "golden age" of flashlights, we are in it. There is a huge subculture of flashlight enthusiasts, of which I am a part-time member of. there are some very powerful lights available in about every price range, but don't expect a $5 special from Wally World or Dick's to get the job done. Do a little research and ask a lot of questions. The market does have some imposters and cheap knock-offs that you should avoid. Stick with the name brands from trusted retailers.

Here are a few resources:
Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/

YouTube: Matt Smith at Adventure Sport Flashlights: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCn6sN4bKlFUF0YXNbdea7hQ

Forums: Candlepowerforums.com & Budgetlightforums.com

My favorite retailer: illumn.com

As for specific lights. I have completely replaced the old plug-in searchlight with rechargeable flashlights. My primary light is a Lumintop ODL20C. It throws a tight and bright beam 3/4 of a mile or more. It has a beason and SoS flashing mode and recharges in the flashlight via USB. There are a few others for different tasks. I have a very bright headlamp, a small one for working lines and pooping the dog, and a wide flood for random things where a tight beam isn't practical. Additionally, beam adjustable lights like you describe ("zoomies" is the jargon) are looked down upon in the biz. They are massive compromises and usually are poor solutions they are bound for failure... but I digress.

You can really go down a rabbit hole if you want to. Honestly, it is one of the most fun hobbies I have stumbled across. Yes, you can spend hundres of dollars on a single light, but take one outside at night and it will all be worth it. you will command the night!


Feel free to reach out if you have any more questions.



Here is my current collection:
 

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Thanks, Tom. The Marine Beam light I had was around a hundred dollars, and I see their newest version is around 129 dollars. It definitely commanded the night. Some I see are several hundred dollars, but I am not inclined to go there.
 
Rich,
I put the new Marine Beam on my Santa wish list ... some interesting technology discussed on the web site. For years I've carried Mag Lite 3 or 4 cell flash lights - well built and dependable. (and a nonlethal defensive weapon) A year or so ago, a bulb went out and I reluctantly paid $15~ for an LED replacement. Was surprised at the over all improvement with the LED light source. By now, I'm sure they are even better. The D cells seem to last forever. Would recommend it as a viable option.

Last year a friend gave me a small Streamlight Polytac. It's an amazing little flashlight. The only down side is battery life. We have a problem with Coyotes around home. I picked up a rail mount for the Polytac and put it on the 308, next to the scope. It will light up Coyotes 300 yards out. At ~$30 I've put them on Starlite and the airship with a pack of extra batteries.
 
For the record, Marinebeams are pretty much junk. More advertising hype than substance. There are so many better lights for the same, or less, money that don't drag you down with 2 or 3 heavy D-cell batteries. Battery technology and LED options are leaps and bounds ahead of this... no matter what the manufacturer claims appear to be. I have two lights that, with a single 26650 cell, will out perform the Marinebeam... and for $50 less!
 
How do you know the Marine Beams are "junk"? Which ones have you owned? What exactly was your experience with them? Mine have performed well for going on three years now, with a fair amount of use in (literally) and around salt water. I've touted them to three or four friends who have been very happy with them.

Plus look at the links to reviews in their web page, I suppose all those folks are junk fans too...

https://store.marinebeam.com/marine...inator-flashlight/?revpage=2 #product-reviews
 
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I have a couple from Home Depot, don’t remember the brand just now, that will light up the houses across the river from me. They were around $30 or so. They aren’t the really expensive brands but I use them instead of a spotlight on the boat.
 
How do you know the Marine Beams are "junk"? Which ones have you owned? What exactly was your experience with them? Mine have performed well for going on three years now, with a fair amount of use in (literally) and around salt water. I've touted them to three or four friends who have been very happy with them.

Plus look at the links to reviews in their web page, I suppose all those folks are junk fans too...

https://store.marinebeam.com/marine...inator-flashlight/?revpage=2 #product-reviews


I have never owned a GEO Metro either, but I know they are junk. Look... the technology is old and the claims on the site are overstated. Learn a little more about higher end flashlights and you will understand. A 3D cell alkaline flashlight is a dinosaur. You can have a better, brighter, and less expensive light than the Marinebeam and it will still fit in your pocket. That is all I am saying.
 
I have a couple from Home Depot, don’t remember the brand just now, that will light up the houses across the river from me. They were around $30 or so. They aren’t the really expensive brands but I use them instead of a spotlight on the boat.

I understand what you are saying and I have similar lights which will illuminate objects, somewhat. But I want the 30-06 version rather than the .22 caliber version, if you catch my drift.:)
 
Rich,
I put the new Marine Beam on my Santa wish list ... some interesting technology discussed on the web site. For years I've carried Mag Lite 3 or 4 cell flash lights - well built and dependable. (and a nonlethal defensive weapon) A year or so ago, a bulb went out and I reluctantly paid $15~ for an LED replacement. Was surprised at the over all improvement with the LED light source. By now, I'm sure they are even better. The D cells seem to last forever. Would recommend it as a viable option.

Last year a friend gave me a small Streamlight Polytac. It's an amazing little flashlight. The only down side is battery life. We have a problem with Coyotes around home. I picked up a rail mount for the Polytac and put it on the 308, next to the scope. It will light up Coyotes 300 yards out. At ~$30 I've put them on Starlite and the airship with a pack of extra batteries.

I am lusting after a thermal scope after looking through one on a pig hunt. Soo much better than my starlight scope.
 
One of my hang-ups, and believe me, I have more than a large closet full, is that rechargeable devices I have been involved with are either discharged when I want to use them or simply run out of charge during use. I am far happier with carrying extra batteries which can quickly be chucked into the device as needed. Whatever powerful light I get for the boat will not be rechargeable. While this may limit me to choices, dependability after a very long storage is more important than other features.
 
I work as a patrol supervisor, so my equipment is my life. This is what I currently use. It is bright, has multiple brightness settings, is tough and well engineered and can be powered by the lithium ion batteries or CR123s. I can’t afford to buy crap for the street. If you truly want a real flashlight, you’re gonna pay for it. But it will work as advertised and last.

https://www.streamlight.com/en/products/detail/index/protac-hl-5-x

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-...2-7547-4d9b-b4f8-fe31bfe05040&tag=rgonsite-20
 
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A 3D cell alkaline flashlight is a dinosaur.

Agree,100%. The technology has come leaps and bounds. My first patrol flashlight 25 yrs ago was like a birthday candle compared to today’s technology. I can get a flashlight that is literally hundreds of times brighter with more power saving modes/options that is 1/3 the size/weight of that antique and with good rechargeable batteries too.
 
Marinebeam uses a patented reflector (Waiven RLT) that is not sold by Waiven (now Meadowstar) to anyone else.

The rest of the flashlight components are mediocre at best.

Which is unfortunate, as it could be an absolutely incredible, maybe even dangerous, light with quality components.

So flashlight aficionados are upset that they can't get the marriage of the two.

That said, the Marinebeam is suitable for it's service, and it's intended consumer.

It throws a long light, just not a lot of it. It doesn't light up your deck or pilothouse when you use it a searchlight.

Haven't seen or used the newer version.
 
If you insist on alkaline batteries you will severely limit your options. Rechargable lithium ion batteries have so much more power. Lithiums hold a charge well, and you can always just have a spare set. When I go for a night hike, I just take the light, and throw a spare battery in my pocket. The size of my light is about the size of a cigar tube, and puts out about 5 times more light than a 3 D cell LED maglight.

Surefire is kind of the king of the hill and very pricey. Fenix, Nitecore, Olight, and Streamlight ( and others )are probable the next tier. NEBO is a new brand that is advertising heavily. I would avoid them. When you look for a light you want to make sure its rated according to ANSI FL-1 standards. The specs will be displayed in a format that gives credibility to the specs. If a light just says "1000 Lumens" don't believe it unless it is presented in that format.

I have never used the marinebeam, but would guess from the amount of text they devote to justifying its low lumen output that it's not a great light. The narrowness of that beam is going to make it more like a laser than a flashlight.

For some people flashlights are like watches. A Timex will be more accurate than a Rolex, and if all you want to do is know what time it is, the Timex is probably a better watch. If you are a diver going down to 100 feet or more, the Timex won't cut it.

Brightguy.com has a great search feature where you can search their inventory by parameters like distance, battery type, price, modes, and more.

https://www.brightguy.com/shop/long...istance=number&rng_order_pa_beam-distance=ASC

Here's an example of a Nitecore long distance at the same price point as the Marinebeam:

https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-MH4...80069772&sprefix=nitecore+mh40,aps,159&sr=8-3

This would be a FAR superior light with more useable output, more features, and a more useful beam profile.


Candlepower forums are a great resource, but also remember it is a forum similar to this one in that there is no shortage of personalities, opinions and biases.

Lastly.....if you have cordless tools, check to see if whatever platform you have for tools has a spotlight. I have a milwaukee 12 volt 750 lumen spotlight that has a beam distance of about 700 yards and that uses my cordless drill batteries. Its a solid light and is only about 70 bucks.
 
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One of my hang-ups, and believe me, I have more than a large closet full, is that rechargeable devices I have been involved with are either discharged when I want to use them or simply run out of charge during use. I am far happier with carrying extra batteries which can quickly be chucked into the device as needed. Whatever powerful light I get for the boat will not be rechargeable. While this may limit me to choices, dependability after a very long storage is more important than other features.



I wouldn’t limit yourself. Spare rechargeable batteries are not expensive (even competitive with single use alkalines) and you don’t have to chuck them in the dump after a single use. Even so, there are some very good lights that use multiple AAs. Really, unless you need it to knock out a bear, a D-cell light will sit until the batteries ruin themselves in an acid bath. 26650 and 18650 batteries can really dump the amps and you can get good ones at your nearest vape store. Moreover, good lights have multiple modes from 1-lumen candle mode, to super bright turbo mode, with additional flash modes to repel attackers and, as mentioned, SOS mode that can be seen for miles.
 
Surefire has never had the best lights, but always the best advertising.

Never leave alkaline batteries in any device you want to keep long time. Alkaline batteries only have one guarantee and that is to leak as they die. Regardless of what brand or wild claims about battery life, it is all BS and marketing.

If you want a light to work when you want it to work and it is AA or AAA format, use Lithium batteries. CR123 batteries are expensive but work well for 10 years or so.

For years, I used 18650 batteries in my lights and had a dedicated charger for them. Newer lights have USB-C charge ports or in some cases, magnetic charger connections to let you charge the battery (or batteries) up in the flashlight.
The latest round of Eagletac lights use the 21700 battery and offer you the option of charging your phone up from the rechargeable 21700 battery.
My pocket carry light has a single 26650 battery and has more light that just about anyone could want. https://illuminationgear.com/products/eagtac-tx3gpromkii
 
You all are providing some great information and ideas!!!
 
Be careful of using VAPE batteries in a flashlight since most of them are not short protected, since that's what a Vape is, a short circuit through a heater element.

There should be an internal circuit at the top of the battery that is resettable to go open circuit if you pull too much power or attempt to charge it too fast. Secondly, lots of batteries make high amperage claims but they are just a sticker on a standard battery.

If you want a tighter beam, you'll need a bigger reflector. If you want a wider beam, use a smaller reflector or one that has an egg-shell pattern on the reflector.

Also, remember that these tactical flashlights are heavy and sink... Onboard, you can make a floatie for them out of a section of pool noodle.
 
Is a light's "throw" directly or indirectly related to its lumens? I assume for the reading it has to do with focus. I want something with little if any side lobes - more laser like.
 
I looked at mine. It is a Husky. Bought at Home Depot for $30.97. It has 1000 lumens. Lifetime warranty without any receipt. Takes 3 D cell batteries and is drop tested to 30 feet and waterproof to 1 meter. At $31 if I drop it overboard it isn’t a big deal. I like the lifetime warranty with no questions so if a battery leaks I will get it replaced. Sometimes getting the absolute best isn’t worth it, but getting something really good is fine.
 
Is a light's "throw" directly or indirectly related to its lumens? I assume for the reading it has to do with focus. I want something with little if any side lobes - more laser like.

The "throw" is related to both the output of the LED and the shape of the reflector. The brighter output LEDs put off more heat, and require more power, and in most cases, if left on turbo mode for any length of time will drop back to a lower output mode to save the LED from burnout. If you overheat an LED, it will die. That's the biggest killer of LEDs, is heat / temperature.

Interesting fact is if you have the light in your hand, you will dissipate some of the heat of the light, allowing it to run longer. If you stand it on the base and run on it's own, it won't run as long. It will run longer in cold temps, since that makes the heat dissipate faster.

Better flashlights are "regulated" which means they put off the same light on a fully charged battery as a nearly dead one. Surefire was one of the unregulated lights (for years) and would be really bright to begin with, and then run down quickly, until the light dimmed out as the battery died.

There are two ways to "regulate" an LED. One is to pulse it on and off rapidly. The other way is to regulate the amperage fed to the LED. You can tell the pulsed light by moving it quickly while watching the beam. If you see a series of dots, then it uses the cheaper pulse regulator.
 

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