Horizontal Windlass Recommendations

My 2009 Muir Compact H700 Horizontal windlass finally gave up the ghost. Looking to replace it with another 12 Volt system. Can anyone advise which brands/etc... to steer clear of? Looking at Lofran's Tigres and Muir HR700 so far.
Thanks,

Jim

Haven't installed it yet, but I've got a Maxwell HRC10-8 ready to go on the boat. When I did the research, it seemed like everyone who's got one of the HRC10s likes it.

I replaced my Muir Cougar with a Lofrans Tigress several years ago.

The Tigress is a fantastic windlass. I often am dead lifting well over 450 pounds when pulling my anchor.

Yep, Lofrans. Mine is 30 yrs old, and after we purchased the boat a yr ago, we had the motor rewound and it's working great. First time we anchored out we pulled up a large log stuck in the anchor. The Lofrans pulled it all up with no problem - took me a few minutes to get the log off

I replaced my old windlass with the Lofrans Tigres 12V about 5 or 6 years ago.
I'm not a heavy user but no trouble at all.

Re Lofranze Tigress from potbellypirate

I posted an ad today of lofrans tigress for sale in classified.(I believe) Aprox 12o.potbellypirate.

FoxtrotCharlie said:

Yep, Lofrans. Mine is 30 yrs old, and after we purchased the boat a yr ago, we had the motor rewound and it's working great. First time we anchored out we pulled up a large log stuck in the anchor. The Lofrans pulled it all up with no problem - took me a few minutes to get the log off

Click to expand...

I had my 1980 Lofrans Tigress rewound 2 or 3 yrs ago. In 1994 or 95, I snagged a car hauler trailer and pulled it to the surface. The Tigress complained at the time, but still gave me another ~30 yrs service. After the rewind, back to full power again.

Thumbs up for my Maxwell HRC 10-8.

jimdavi said:

Thumbs up for my Maxwell HRC 10-8.

Click to expand...

I replaced my old Maxwell/Nillson a few years ago with another Maxwell, but mine was a vertical version.

Vertical Windlass and Capstan Range

Our Lofrans Tigress has never let us down, over 30 years old and still going strong....

Windlasses are typically very rebuildable, not a throwaway Shops like RC Plath on the west coast and Ideal or GalleyMaid on the east among others can usually rebuild anyones windlass. Muir makes good product. What makes you think it has given up the ghost?

I have a Maxwell HW2200 that is powered with 24VDC. If I could have found one that operated from 120AC I would have purchased that. And yes, the windless is gross overkill. It pulls my all chain rode and 80# Manson Supreme as if it was lifting a toy.

All that aside, I would have gone with 24VDC no matter which windlass I had purchased. A 1 volt wiring drop under load is almost 10% power loss meaning a windlass should have extra heavy wiring along with minimizing the distance between the windlass and the power source. Just my thoughts

I installed a 1200 watt Lofrans Tigress in 2001.

I have a 66 pound anchor and 5/16" HT chain.

Have anchored in 70 feet of water with no retrieval issues.

We pull the anchor with the windlass 30 to 50 times a year.

Have not had to do anything to it other than annual servicing.

The Tigress deploy and retrieves very fast.

I would recommend the Tigress.

syjos said:

I installed a 1200 watt Lofrans Tigress in 2001.

I have a 66 pound anchor and 5/16" HT chain.

Have anchored in 70 feet of water with no retrieval issues.

We pull the anchor with the windlass 30 to 50 times a year.

Have not had to do anything to it other than annual servicing.

The Tigress deploy and retrieves very fast.

I would recommend the Tigress.

Click to expand...

What would you service on a Tigress? Mine was in service continuously for ~ 37 yrs without a single "service". When it failed, the windings had failed, not a "service item". When I took it off the boat, I inspected the oil level and found it as it should be, both up to the opening and perfectly clean. Would I have "serviced" at any time during it s lifetime it is more likely I would have introduced some foreign material into the oil than not, to the likely detriment of its lifetime. I will not be "servicing it again until it tells me, by poor performance, that there is some good reason to open it up.
I did lubricate the clutch occasionally, maybe twice in the past 25 yrs. Again not an annual item, rather an "as required" item.

https://www.lofrans.com/library

6.1 Maintenance programme
For obtaining the best performances and
the utmost efficiency of the anchor
windlass, it is necessary to follow
strictly the maintenance programme
indicated hereby.
A. Clean all external surfaces and
hidden points with fresh water and
remove all salt layers.
B. Grease the rotating parts.
Particularly, the main shaft threads and
clutch cones. Check for evidences of
corrosion and mechanical stresses.
C. Check the terminals of the electric
motor. Test the voltage drop at the
terminals.
D. Replace all gaskets.
E. Remove the anchor windlass from
the deck to clean the salt under the base
and seal again.


Not a lot of maintenance......

psneeld said:

https://www.lofrans.com/library

6.1 Maintenance programme
For obtaining the best performances and
the utmost efficiency of the anchor
windlass, it is necessary to follow
strictly the maintenance programme
indicated hereby.
A. Clean all external surfaces and
hidden points with fresh water and
remove all salt layers.
B. Grease the rotating parts.
Particularly, the main shaft threads and
clutch cones. Check for evidences of
corrosion and mechanical stresses.
C. Check the terminals of the electric
motor. Test the voltage drop at the
terminals.
D. Replace all gaskets.
E. Remove the anchor windlass from
the deck to clean the salt under the base
and seal again.


Not a lot of maintenance......

Click to expand...

A Routine for the boat not a Windlass specific item.
B. Done maybe twice in 25 years, and didn't really need it either time. Not an "annual maintenance" item.
C. Done when removing the motor for rewinding, No deficiency found then. Not an "annual Maint" item.
D. Only found 1 gasket, where the case covering the motor fits to the housing. Was in good condition when re & re done, so good for another 35 years.
E. Cleaned when accessible, on removal for rewinding. No buildup found, so not an "annual maint" item. Was able to strio and re-varnish the teak sprit the windlass was mounted on, so that part of the bow looks best now.

Right, Not a lot of maintenance! But I do keep my boat in a shelter in the winter, that really does cut "annual maintenance".

The annual maintenance on the Tigress:

Wash the windlass throughly and let dry.

Remove the chain gypsy, warping drum, clutch and associated parts.

The removed parts and shaft are cleaned to remove old grease.

The windlass is reassembled with new water resistant grease.

After reassembly, the windlas exterior is coated with Boeshield rust and corrosion protection.

Every other year, the cover is removed and the wiring terminations cleaned and coated with dielectric paste.

The gearbox has not been serviced in 18 years.

Our boat came with a Muir Cheetah in 1996--It is still going strong. If and when it fails I would get it fixed or replace with the same.

We recently replaced a fried Lewmar 700 with a vertical Maxwell 10-8, and gor a very good price from hodgesmarine.com
Plenty of power for our 80lb Manson Supreme and the (I have never put it all in the water) 300ft of 5/16 G4.

New Muir horizontal windlasses range between $2K and 4KAUD here. The motor died in mine and Muir replaced it, my cost. Everything else was perfect. Why not assess repair before replacement? No new holes to drill, no holes to fill, no rewiring, etc...

BruceK said:

New Muir horizontal windlasses range between $2K and 4KAUD here. The motor died in mine and Muir replaced it, my cost. Everything else was perfect. Why not assess repair before replacement? No new holes to drill, no holes to fill, no rewiring, etc...

Click to expand...

Exactly. Will be curious to hear the OP's answer to my question. Good windlasses are not disposable items.

psneeld said:

https://www.lofrans.com/library

6.1 Maintenance programme
...
B. Grease the rotating parts.
Particularly, the main shaft threads and
clutch cones. Check for evidences of
corrosion and mechanical stresses.
...

Not a lot of maintenance......

Click to expand...

koliver said:

A Routine for the boat not a Windlass specific item.

Click to expand...

I'm not sure how item B is specific to the boat and NOT the windlass. However, your success at what has been admittedly little maintenance isn't a blue print to justify the lack of it. Stuff needs to be periodically cleaned and lubed. It seems odd and somewhat senseless to debate a maintenance program that consists of avoiding it. There are a lot of things that can go a long time being ignored (deferred maintenance), however many of them will take significantly longer to properly clean and service when the time comes. There is a significant benefit to catching small things before they become big things, like a failed seal or gasket, or unusual wear patterns, lack of lubrication, etc). To me it's a Proactive vs Reactive approach. I can and do have to deal with things breaking, however if possible, I'd rather catch it during regular maintenance and address while it's working, if possible.

If you don't take it apart and service it, you may find it impossible to take apart to service it after a few years. I service my LoFrans Project 1000 every other year so nothing seizes up in the assembly, according to their service recommendations.

Shrew said:

I'm not sure how item B is specific to the boat and NOT the windlass. However, your success at what has been admittedly little maintenance isn't a blue print to justify the lack of it. Stuff needs to be periodically cleaned and lubed. It seems odd and somewhat senseless to debate a maintenance program that consists of avoiding it. There are a lot of things that can go a long time being ignored (deferred maintenance), however many of them will take significantly longer to properly clean and service when the time comes. There is a significant benefit to catching small things before they become big things, like a failed seal or gasket, or unusual wear patterns, lack of lubrication, etc). To me it's a Proactive vs Reactive approach. I can and do have to deal with things breaking, however if possible, I'd rather catch it during regular maintenance and address while it's working, if possible.

Click to expand...

You have only quoted my ref to A. "A. Clean all external surfaces and
hidden points with fresh water and
remove all salt layers."
for which I stated "A Routine for the boat not a Windlass specific item."

Had you read further, you would have found the ref to B.
Without that, your comments are misplaced.

My Muir had a grease nipple/zerk retro-fitted in the center of the 3 pin thingy that tightens/slackens the gypsy. Muir`s advice at motor replacement was that was all the lubing it needed. I wondered what happens to the old grease, but it seems ok, so far, 5 years on.

caltexflanc said:

Windlasses are typically very rebuildable, not a throwaway Shops like RC Plath on the west coast and Ideal or GalleyMaid on the east among others can usually rebuild anyones windlass. Muir makes good product. What makes you think it has given up the ghost?

Click to expand...

The housing and attachment hardware are badly corroded/frozen in place. Also, you can't access the motor without removing the entire windlass from the pulpit.

I'm still weighing all options currently. Not having to fill/re-drill pulpit is a big concern as well.

Sounds rebuildable to me, especially given the high quality of a Muir; and if you buy a new one different from your current model, you'll have to remove the old one anyway, and likely have to reconfigure the opening and attachment points. . Some pics might help, as typically the motor is in the anchor rode locker.

Ozona Texas? I've actually driven through there a few times back in the 90's. A long way from salt water!

If you still want a really high quality replacement, consider a Lighthouse, Plath or Ideal.

I have muir cougar 1990 ish and the folks an imtra the offical distributor stocks parts and half the price of new we replace the motor, gear box and new gyse and other hardware.
reach out to jim thomas 508-995-7000 he great and provides all the parts diagrams and far pricing on the parts with quick shipping.

Muir replaced alloy cases with composite, but the corrosion may be surface. The whole thing has to come off to service the internals, like the motor. Muir could not replace my motor like for like,the new one was bigger(and more powerful) but sat below the case base, I had to make a wooden plinth which I excavated into to accommodate the shape of the new motor. A new windlass was 4K so it was worth the trouble.
Not so worth the trouble was the Muir guy marking the wrong pole for "retrieve" so the windlass paid out instead of retrieving. I had the plinth coated with Sika 291 both sides and elsewhere, going off. Had to take it all apart, Sika still wet. Yuk!