Ford Lehman Secondary Fuel Filters

As other F.L. owners are aware, the secondary fuel filters are a PITA. I recently read , somewhere in this forum about a replacement, remote mounted filter assembly with spin on filters.

Can't seem to find it now. Can anyone shed some light on what it is and where I can get it?

Thanks,

pete

But Why? What is the point of doing that. I have twin FL SP-225's and it only takes 20-30 min to replace filters on both engines.

Because the OEM are suscetible to easy stripping of plastic parts and numerous potential air leaks.


Why spend 20 minutes and have to be careful when you can spend 5 or less for both.

Also much easier to bleed at least for me.... and the overll system has been much better over the last 8 years and 3500 engine hours.


You can get one with a metal bowl if you choose...my insurance didn't make a big deal because it is considered a "small" filter and it wasn't any worse with plastic drains than OEM.



https://www.racorstore.com/index.ph...jp1GXU0OSSlV1tN3uyFak8h8jDwKNFggaApY9EALw_wcB

1)Spilling fuel while draining the filters prior to removal.
2)Getting a "gusher" if they aren't sealed or set properly.

pete

Yea, that's just what I was looking for. Factory secondary filters are in a pair. Do I need 2 of these for my single engine ?

pete

Pete Meisinger said:

Yea, that's just what I was looking for. Factory secondary filters are in a pair. Do I need 2 of these for my single engine ?

pete

Click to expand...

I would have to say it depends on your primaries...


But I ran this alone (2 micron) on a 120 with just Racor 500 2 micron as a primary...it has plenty of flow and never has come near to clogging or showing anything but pristine fuel in the bowl.


I am now going with 10 micron primaries as I know I have good fuel (new, smaller tanks) and with any less vacuum, potential air leaks may be reduced.


You do need to redrill the bracket or put a small adapter plate on which is what I did.

There used to be a company that made a spin on replacement filter bracket that had 2 filters on it. I think maybe they went out of business. The part number was something like DP100. It wouldn’t fit on my SP225s though.

I remote-mounted a Racor 500 secondary. Much easier to change, filter elements everywhere. I could not find any info of the vibration-tolerance of Racors hence the remote. The old clam crusher shakes a lot.

You can convert the CAV housings to use spin on filters with these. Makes element change less messy.

Racor sold these a while back but other manufacturers are marketing them now.

I do not believe that my OEM secondary filters have any plastic parts. As far as fuel spills, I use zip locks bag.

Pete Meisinger said:

Yea, that's just what I was looking for. Factory secondary filters are in a pair. Do I need 2 of these for my single engine

Click to expand...

I suspect most owners have a Racor 500 mounted as a primary. You only need 1 secondary. Spin on secondary would be much easier to change. EBay lists a number of Racor spin on's. Confine your search to north america as there are a number of clones. Make sure filters are commonly available for the model you choose.

For example, the Racor 220R series takes an R24S filter available at West or Amazon.

Where would you mount the secondary and how to you bypass the OEM dual secondaries?

Bolt on and replace not bypass?

This has been discussed before. Unfortunately the maker is gone.
I found this though so it may be worthwhile contacting them:
http://lists.trawlering.com/pipermail/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com/2007-
October/122462.html


https://oregonfuelinjection.com/


Go to the Oregon site as the ABC is out of business.



You might , if not done already, contact American DIesel, the Lehman experts.

I use 2 micron in my primary Racor and I believe the secondaries are 30 micron, so the secondaries are not doing much. I will keep them changed about every 3 years.

My Napa dealer in Petersburg AK says they have them. I was going to put on a set and he talked me into waiting until I'm back in May and they go one sale.

Tator

syjos said:

You can convert the CAV housings to use spin on filters with these. Makes element change less messy.

Racor sold these a while back but other manufacturers are marketing them now.

Click to expand...

Found them on Amazon for $30.


https://www.amazon.com/DP1000-Adaptor-Converts-Cartridge-Element/dp/B00V3ESQLC


Ken

Best improvement you will ever make.

catalinajack said:

Best improvement you will ever make.View attachment 95375

Click to expand...

I agree 100%

You do need to flip your oil filter right side up to make changing that easier without spill.

I wanted to put the spin on adapters on my engines but Brian said they don’t fit on the 225s. So I didn’t try it.

syjos said:

I agree 100%

You do need to flip your oil filter right side up to make changing that easier without spill.

Click to expand...

A bud told me recently that his (gas engine) oil filters are mounted upside down like that... and he's figured out that punching a hole in the upright end before starting a change will allow remaining oil in the filter to drain down into the engine/pan...

He said the instructions he received say to just twist the filter off a little bit first, enough to break the vacuum, to cause that kind of drainage... but that the hole punch seems to work better.

-Chris

catalinajack said:

Best improvement you will ever make.View attachment 95375

Click to expand...

Is that a FL 120? What filters did you use? Was it an easy conversion? Thinking I should go for it!

SeaBreeze said:

Is that a FL 120? What filters did you use? Was it an easy conversion? Thinking I should go for it!

Click to expand...

Yes, an FL120 and an easy conversion. The small filter is a 9-micron Donaldson (P555095) and the 2-micron Racor is a S3216S.

syjos said:

I agree 100%

You do need to flip your oil filter right side up to make changing that easier without spill.

Click to expand...

No need to flip them. Just punch a couple of holes in the top and they will drain into the sump overnight, maybe just an hour. No spillage at all doing this way.

As a few people have said, no need to flip the oil filter. Punch even one hole in the end of the filter (I use a #1 phillips screwdriver) and just unscrew the filter slightly to break the seal between the gasket and the mounting plate... but not enough for oil to seep out. It'll drain into the sump in a few minutes. Then I slip a ziploc bag over the top, unscrew the rest of the way and no mess.

kchace said:

Found them on Amazon for $30.


https://www.amazon.com/DP1000-Adaptor-Converts-Cartridge-Element/dp/B00V3ESQLC


Ken

Click to expand...

"No longer available" on Amazon but here is another one. They are also available at multiple tractor supply stores. Watch the price as I have found them from $30 to $90 each. And they all look exactly the same and even the same marketing pic.

https://www.amazon.com/Tisco-Fuel-Filter-Adaptor-DP1000/dp/B00BW5P9C6

Racor had theirs manufactured by some other company. When Racor stopped selling them, the manufacturing did not stop. It is still available as a DP-1000.

I have one original Racor CAV1 left out of a case I bought from a distributor when it was discontinued by Racor. $45 - free shipping. PM me. I accept PayPal or check.

For those of you with the spin-on adapters, what fuel filter(s) are you using? I have a leak from my #1 secondary filter, probably from the prior owner's filter change a few hours ago. Before I pull it apart and try to straighten out a gasket issue I'm thinking of just going with a spin-on for that one. An Ebay seller has the kits pretty cheap right now.

Mark

Marco Flamingo said:

For those of you with the spin-on adapters, what fuel filter(s) are you using? I have a leak from my #1 secondary filter, probably from the prior owner's filter change a few hours ago. Before I pull it apart and try to straighten out a gasket issue I'm thinking of just going with a spin-on for that one. An Ebay seller has the kits pretty cheap right now.

Mark

Click to expand...

I use Baldwin spin on elements. Sorry but away from boat so don't recall part number.

Racor has a compatible one too.

Marco Flamingo said:

For those of you with the spin-on adapters, what fuel filter(s) are you using? I have a leak from my #1 secondary filter, probably from the prior owner's filter change a few hours ago. Before I pull it apart and try to straighten out a gasket issue I'm thinking of just going with a spin-on for that one. An Ebay seller has the kits pretty cheap right now.

Mark

Click to expand...

No offense but read through the previous postings. I even posted a picture of my Lehman 120 setup. A Donaldson P555095 (9 micron) is what I use. For Lehman 135 owners who have less clearance, know that with this filter including the adapter from top to bottom is four inches. A Parker PFF5504 (10 micron) is the same height while a Parker PFF5505 is one inch taller.

You will also see in my photo that the second-in-line on-engine filter is a Parker S3216S with clear bowl bottom with drain. This is probably overkill but I chose it because the filters are available in 30, 10, and 2-micron. The S3216S is the 2-micron model. However, this assembly measures 7.5 inches from the filter housing. I doubt whether it will fit on a Lehman 135.

There are also a number of other filters that will fit, for example, a Baldwin 1267. This filter has a bottom drain but is a 14-micron filter. Cross reference this number and you will find many others of the same spec. If your primary filter is 10 microns or better, you may not care that these filters are 14 microns. My primary is 10 microns. The 9 micron Donaldson I use as the first-in-line on-engine filter is pretty much a placeholder. However, the Racor second-in-line being a 2 micron filter provides even more filtration, albeit, probably overkill for a Lehman. I just checked my maintenance records. These filters have been on the engine for nearly 800 hours (2.5 years). I suppose I should consider changing the Racor 2-micron element just because.