Saberline 36 Hull repair

Cheers All & Happy 4th..
I’m looking at a 2002 Saberline36 with hull damage from improper blocking when put on hard.. boat stand punctured hull aft of where prop shafts exit, bad repair didn’t work and leaked.. new patch held for 45 miles to get hauled out..
My question is why can’t I just layer on top of what has been done, fair and paint? Delam on Bottom has been ground out and left about a 7’x3’ patch..

Who blocked the boat?
Legally, this incident should follow the boat's history and the next and subsequent owners should know about this.

Well it’s a private sale and all this was explained to me...
So do you have a reply pertaining to my post?

The hassle with GRP is any patch needs to be able to flex similar to the undamaged hull.

This requires a very large taper at the joining edges and a layup similar to what was used when new.

Simply placing layer on layer creates a hard spot , which is difficult for the new laminate to stay stuck to.

If you try , use epoxy resin , not polly for the attempt

Maybe best to go to the source, the builder.

Schoonerdawg said:

Well it’s a private sale and all this was explained to me...
So do you have a reply pertaining to my post?

Click to expand...

My Nordhavn fell off the jacks in the yard. Seems the yard man thought he could pull a jack before placing another jack. Drove the port stabilizer into the owner's stateroom (big hole in the hull). Constructive loss. The boat was purchased from the yard, patched up, and sailed a few more years before being placed up for sale WITH the note that the boat had been previously declared a constructive loss.

So yes, I have had prior experience.

The tanks should have been tested for weakened/destroyed welds, the possibility of chasing electrical problems. Based upon the included pictures and condition of the interior teak, I suspect all the windows should have been pulled and reseated. What was done, I have no idea.
There were many other potential problems that should have been investigated.

It is an area I would want 100% confidence in. Any weakness in a pounding sea and the boat is going down. I would take it to professional fb repair shop, grind out all prior work, and redo the whole thing.

I suspect the original yard's insurance settled with the original owner or the yard convinced the owner they were capable of repairing. Clearly not. In my opinion the value of the boat is not much more than the value of the 2 used engines.

(I am experienced enough with the West system to know that hull is a major repair and beyond my capabilities)

It is hard to tell from the pictures but is the white granular surface exposed core material or fiberglass laminate? If it is a cored hull you'd need to rebuild the inner layers, core and outer layers without creating any hard spots. Access on the inside may be an issue. In any case, it is a big job.

not a complicated repair for an experienced glass person. Probably not a repair for a DIY type who hasn't much glass experience IMHO.

It certainly can be repaired, by a professional. It might only include the hull. It might have twisted things inside. One or both shafts and struts may be involved. 45 mile seatrial has no bearing on drivetrain alignment. It may have been reported to the insurance companies and may not be insurable or may have a substantially diminished resale value.

Simple question: what is the difference between the asking price and market value of another one, same make, model and year? To me, it's value might be the salvage value of the engines if it ends up being unfixable.

If you want to keep going, pay a professional to come see it, explain the repair, and give you a ballpark estimate. It might be the best money you ever spent.

Ted

Thanks to all... originally I was afraid the damage was under the engine and impossible to repair but when I crawled under the boat I saw it was the area aft of the prop shaft exit and thought it must not be a structural area maybe that’s why not a good place to put a boat stand... if it’s not a structural area why would a big patch fair and paint not work ? FYI asking price is about what salvage value of the 2 yanmars would be...

Better pictures

These may show the location of the patch better..

Hmmm, the damage is limited to the keel?

Affirmative.. original damage to keel area aft of engines and water intake..from what I gather, Saberline used a foam-core for this part of the hull, prolly why it failed.. the original patch failure reportedly caused further delaminzation further aft just on the keel.. I don’t understand why a foam core below waterline ?

have you had an experienced glass man look at this?

I’ve made a conservative offer subject to survey that excludes “Obvious” damage. My concern is possible hidden damage but after crawling around in bilge with flashlight I could not find any... I have a fair amount of experience with west systems Epoxy, use it in my Historical Restoration business but none with foam core.. I think I would just “wet it out “ to seal then layup cloth..
Does not have to look pretty I’m not a boat flipper, plan on having her a while..
Must admit I’m quite smitten with this one..