Injector service recommendations... white smoke

Does the engine come up to full / normal operating temperature? (Cool running engine makes white smoke. Same as in start up.)

Might look at your fuel pressure before going to injectors.... When were your racor and secondary fuel filters last changed?

Before you do anything find a volvo penta forum and you will likely find that volvo pentas are smokers,,nothing wrong with them just produce white smoke like mine,,for years...but after a few hours it stops or almost stops.

Glazed bores

I got white smoke from my GM692 2 stroke and it was caused by glazed bores which in turn was caused by idling too long as they like work, I treated the fuel with an additive designed to decarbonise motors and it worked a treat. It is called FTC and is available in Australia, don't know about U.S.

The supplier told me that he had sold this to people that tried it as a last resort before rebuild the motor and it worked just as well on 4 strokes.
One classic issue with GM's with this problem is excessive oil consumption because of increased sump pressure caused by the blow by in the cylinders as a result of the glazing.
Could be worth a go !

Product link

https://costeffective.com.au/2017/03/05/diesel-smoke-tells-you-a-story/

This link takes you to some interesting information on white smoke

" I treated the fuel with an additive designed to decarbonise motors and it worked a treat."

I have often used a "Flit Gun" a hand insectside sprayer with water to clear carbon deposits .

I wonder if a de-carboning spray made for the high powered outboards might work even better?

BruceK said:

Can`t see the connection but not big on "coincidence". "Do something and something happens afterwards" suggests a nexus.

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Agreed. Some dislodged crud stuck in an injector seems the most likely explanation.

Last year one of my diesels started kicking out white smoke. Turned out to be steam. I had bought fuel from a different marina and got a gulp of water too. Would happen one day and not the next. After much hand wringing, it went away on its own.

I am at the boat now and pulled the injectors. One was particularly filthy (see pic). I am sending them off tomorrow.

Make sure you keep track of the Cu sealing ring, I saw some stuck to the nozzles, others likely in head bores. Get them pop tested. Clean sealing bores in head and use new sealing rings. The dirty one probably had some leakage past the ring.

And DO let us know if that solves the issue. I am having the EXACT same issue. white smoke at high RPM, otherwise no other issue....

One way to check injectors without pulling them is to wet the side of the injector with your spit, then rub the flat side of a stick of chalk and it will show a translucent whitish/grey colour where its wet. Now fire up the engine and watch the chalk marks, if they all dry out white evenly they're working, if one dries slower than the rest you have a faulty injector.
If you go to a farm/plant mechanic they'll tell you where to get them tested/repaired cheaper than any 'marine' shop.

Will do, KenM! I sent the injectors off to Everglades Diesel Injection Service in Ft. Lauderdale as recommended by Adventureboater--they had several positive reviews. I spoke to them today and the injectors are ready: $89.50 per injector to include new nozzles and adjusting to factory specs. I ordered new copper washers, spray sleeves, and inserts from Marine Parts Express.

Interestingly, the spray sleeves and inserts from Volvo are now two pieces and have a washer after the insert. My old parts were instead a one piece spray sleeve/insert and no washer after the insert (just one behind the insert on the nozzle side). I will double check as Ski recommended that the washers are not stuck, but I didn't see any last I checked--and these haven't been removed since leaving the factory.

I will have a full report next week--fingers crossed.

Great trick Irish Rambler! I will try to remember that one!

Thanks for the update Chris, I'm sure this will solve the issue and give you better performance!

"I will have a full report next week--fingers crossed."

and the results are??? (drum roll please)

Same, because it’s winter......

Xsbank said:

Same, because it’s winter......

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Wake up it is Spring now my friend even if it does not look like it here

L

Spring, perhaps, but the water is still cold. Take care, my Eastern neighbour, wear your mittens and don’t fall overboard when you try and see my photo!

Thank you for checking up but unfortunately I have no report. I had the injectors rebuilt and was able to install all but one. The insert/reducer is stuck on the number 2 cylinder! I posted my problem on another thread. I tried a bearing puller slide hammer today per the recommendation of another user but it just slips out. I used heat, but it is not budging. There is a copper washer between the insert and head, so it needs to come out. I finally gave up and am looking for a mechanic. This is most frustrating!

Xsbank said:

Spring, perhaps, but the water is still cold. Take care, my Eastern neighbour, wear your mittens and don’t fall overboard when you try and see my photo!

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At least there is water there, here it stills mostly frozen damned it!

L

Okay, the results are in! I finally was able to remove the insert on the number two cylinder with a bearing puller and install all my rebuilt injectors. The wind was gusting 20 to 30 knots today, so I had to run the boat in the slip. I bled the system and she smoked and ran rough for a few minutes, which I assume was due to air in the system.

I ran the engine up to 2600 RPM in gear and she did not smoke! All looks good! The injector nozzle on the number 2 cylinder was nasty and there was no copper gasket between the insert and head. This likely explains why the nozzle was filthy.

All is good now. I waited an hour, started her up again, and there was also no smoke at start up. I will take Sherpa out next week when the weather is better. I appreciate everyone's help.

Glad to hear that you were able to get it out and get back to running good. Without the washer the injection timing was off for that cylinder. So that definitely didn't help it run right.

Don't feel so bad, actually that's a problem that's baffled many a mechanic.
Many's a time I've seen guys stumped because they overlooked to pull out the copper washers on all the cylinders and couldn't explain the reason the engine smoked, wasn't efficient. The main thing is she's now running sweet and a lesson's learned (its how we all became smart asses) its called experience.

That's great to hear, but the final test is under load.... let us know!

KenM said:

That's great to hear, but the final test is under load.... let us know!

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I took the boat out yesterday and gave her a thorough running. Here are the results:

1) There is no more sheen in the water from the exhaust and only a small puff of white smoke at startup (the engine had not been turned over in a week). I did replace the glowplugs too.

2) Before reaching operating temperature, there was no more white smoke!

3) Everything runs smoothly--no hesitation or oddities.

Now, this is where it gets a little interesting...

4) When running the engine at or above approximately 2800 to 2900 RPM (max 3600 RPM at WOT), I noticed some white smoke; it doesn't travel far from the boat. The engine temperature does seem to be warmer than usual. Volvo indicates that I should be at 75 to 90 degrees Celsius and the temperature looked to be slightly exceeding that (closer to 200 degrees Fahrenheit but no more). No high temp alarm sounded. The white smoke is a LOT less than before and doesn't reek like diesel.

Gulf temp was in the mid-70s. The water and raw water pump, impeller, and heat exchanger are new. Coolant was replaced a few months ago and the level does not change. Oil looks great! The strainer is clear, and the through hole does not have any obstructions (bottom just cleaned). I seem to have plenty of water coming from the exhaust, and she reaches WOT easily.

I will purchase an IR thermometer gun and check measurements.

I did pull the cabin circulating hot water and forced air heater and plugged the ports at the engine. After doing this, the boat appears to reach operating temperature a lot faster and runs warmer according to the temp gauge.

Also, the engine coolant seacock has a 5/8" barb/hose that is spliced to a 3/4" hose that goes to the strainer--the MD2030 uses 3/4" heater hose. I purchased a full flow 3/4" barb to replace the old 5/8" barb and will replace the smaller section of hose. Perhaps this will increase water flow and reduce the temp a bit.

Overall, I believe rebuilding the injectors helped immensely with the smoke issue. Perhaps the original smoke issue was related to two issues? Maybe there is no issue! I will tinker a bit further. At minimum, the barb needs to be replaced.

Once again, thank you to all who offered suggestions.

You now have an additional working cylinder so more heat would be expected. Time to check the cooling system if it is above specs.

I know on my Ford Lehman when I would get white smoke at high rpm it was steam. The exhaust wasn't getting enough water flow so it was getting too warm and the water turned to steam. I started looking for anything that could restrict the raw water flow starting at the raw water pump. I found multiple pieces of old impellar at the entrance to the oil cooler/heat exchanger. When I opened up the main heat exchanger I also found pieces of zinc pencil and several copper tubes clogged with mud. Once all this was cleared, no more steam. Just another idea to chase down.

Congrats on fixing the fuel issue.

What you have now does sound like steam. When you get your IR gun, check the temp of the exhaust hose right after the water injection ring to see if there are hot spots at higher power settings.

"I ran the engine up to 2600 RPM in gear and she did not smoke!"

Many boats WILL smoke if run to a high RPM in gear with the boat tied to a dock.

The smoke will be Black as the engine is overloaded.

A prop is pitched considering the speed of the vessel underway .

That is why you see so many sport fish belch a black cloud as they accelerate from stopped.

I don't wish to seem pedantic but you should only have a tiny wisp of black smoke when you are under load or accelerate, any more means the injector pump has been 'opened up' and black smoke = unburnt fuel.
In Europe with all the taxes its just about 1.50 Euro a litre, that means 7 Euro a gallon, that also means you need your motor to be tuned for efficiency unless you've got deep pockets.