Racor 1000 filter change interval?

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In my conversations with Racor while visiting their plant in Modesto (here's the article https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Racor-Very-Fine-Filtration.pdf ) I posed this question, they were understandably non-committal but off the record said they've known of filters that weren't changed for a decade and showed no deterioration.


I think the concern, and the information that I got from Racor (and can’t find now) was that the aquablock treatment deteriorates over time, not the filters themselves. So if this is correct, the filters will continue to filter out particulates, but be less effective over time filtering out water.

I’m going to read that article. I appreciate your contributions.
 
Ted,

If you follow condition-based maintenance, you change oil just before it's worn out, and you make that determination using oil analysis. If the engine is otherwise functioning properly, the "worn out" part is determined by its total base number or TBN, which is the oil additive package's ability to neutralize acids. It starts between 8 and 12, when it reaches 2 the oil should be changed. Most recreational users never reach this point, as they change seasonally, which is conservative and a safe approach.

Having conducted hundreds of oil analyses, and read many hundreds of reports, I'm convinced we throw away a lot of good oil. Still, it's better than the alternative, oil changes still aren't very costly if you do them yourself.

As far as fuel filters are concerned, I'll reiterate the value of a good vacuum gauge, it's the best means of determining filter condition, and it's an excellent troubleshooting tool as well, every primary filter should have one.

Fuel filters work best after they have captured some dirt, it increases the efficiency of the filter, enabling it to more effectively capture more dirt. Every time the filter is replaced, that process must start over again. Therefore, there's an argument to be made for not changing fuel filters unnecessarily. I tell my clients to watch the vacuum gauge (you must read it at cruising speed if it doesn't have a drag needle), if it stays in the green then change at the 2 year mark.

This article covers some of the details of primary filters Primary fuel filtration - Ocean Navigator - Ocean Voyager 2018

That's a good article Steve. Your comments on the reasons not to use a 2 micron filter as one's first line of defense are well made. I polish at 30 microns for the reasons you mention, transfer to the day tank through a separate 10 micron filter, which is then filtered at 2 microns before it ever sees the OEM filter. In other words, I go for overkill with the Racor 1000s, then kill that.
 
Did the OP ever come back and state the micron size of the pictured Racors?
 
In comparison to boats in Europe, your appears to be the exception. I'm astonished.
Astonished indeed, but there are some low humidity climates where the ambient temperature rarely crosses the dewpoint. In this (rare) case, fuel will stay relatively dry and bugs won't find enough water to breed and grow. That said, a good diesel biocide costs next to nothing, so why run the risk?
 
Astonished indeed, but there are some low humidity climates where the ambient temperature rarely crosses the dewpoint. In this (rare) case, fuel will stay relatively dry and bugs won't find enough water to breed and grow. That said, a good diesel biocide costs next to nothing, so why run the risk?

We live in a semi tropical climate
Temps in summer often in the +90f
Humidity averages around 70%
 
We live in a semi tropical climate
Temps in summer often in the +90f
Humidity averages around 70%

And we live in the polar opposite climate, where condensation is a fact of life. I guess you and I are both astonishing. Well us, and the 90% of other posters who who never see the dreaded moisture in the tank that some seem plauged with.
 
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I agree

This is often proposed in theory and seldom tested. But Maine Sail (CMS) has tested it. It does not happen, at least in his tests.

I have always thought this was bs. Why doesn't it happen on cars? My boat goes through several seasons to include the Bahamas in winter and I have never seen a drop of water in three system.
 
I have always thought this was bs. Why doesn't it happen on cars? My boat goes through several seasons to include the Bahamas in winter and I have never seen a drop of water in three system.

You must be astonishing as well.
 
"Proper sumps are awesome, but very rare. If I would do anything different when setting up my tanks, it would be adding sumps. But the pickups at the bottom get me pretty close to having a real sump. "


One common solution if there is not room for a proper sump is a plate with holes in the tank about an inch off the bottom with the pickup above.

Below the plate is drained with a valve , we insert a plug in the valve as cheap insurance.
 
Very interesting and educational thread. Thanks guys...one question I have...does the Aquabloc deteriorate if not opened or used? I have half a dozen unused Racor 500 filters, still in the sealed plastic wrap, that are 4 years old or so. Sitting in a bin in the aft cabin. Throw away or use?
 
I have always thought this was bs. Why doesn't it happen on cars? My boat goes through several seasons to include the Bahamas in winter and I have never seen a drop of water in three system.

I'll second this, it's more urban legend than scientific fact. I don't believe condensation is as great a concern as many believe.

I carried out condensation testing of fuel tanks over the course of a winter in Virginia several years ago. I removed the access hatches to two tanks, one steel another aluminum, once a week for the entire winter, and looked inside. I never saw any signs of condensation, and the environment here is truly ideal for it, temperature swings of 40F are not uncommon in 24 hrs as warm fronts move through. If my wife leaves the garage door open during one of these events, water condenses on everything, tool chests, engine blocks, vices etc.

Anecdotally, I've stuck my head into scores, perhaps hundreds of fuel tanks in my career, I have never once seen condensed water. I have seen water condense on the inside of a deck fill cap, however, that's different as it's likely to get colder overnight because it's exposed. I wrote a short column about condensation aboard, you can read it here https://www.cruisingworld.com/monthly-maintenance-condensation#page-2

My instinct is the vast majority of water in diesel fuel comes entrained in the fuel, from the transport truck or vessel, and from deck fills (I find a lot of deteriorated, and sometimes missing, O rings).

When designing fuel tanks I always include a sump for trapping water and debris, with either a drain (allowed by ABYC Standards for diesel tanks, but not gasoline) or stripper tube for removal from the tank top.

If you have the opportunity to have a tank (or boat) built, this is a worthwhile feature. Being able to easily remove water from a tank eliminates the need for biocides. Stripper tubes can be added to existing tanks as well, but the trap or sump is a key feature.

The fuel tank pictured in the opening of this article, http://stevedmarineconsulting.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/FuelTankDesign.pdf is one I designed, it includes a sump (the tank is on its side, the view is of the bottom as it's being lifted into the vessel).
 
I'll second this, it's more urban legend than scientific fact. I don't believe condensation is as great a concern as many believe.

I carried out condensation testing of fuel tanks over the course of a winter in Virginia several years ago. I removed the access hatches to two tanks, one steel another aluminum, once a week for the entire winter, and looked inside. I never saw any signs of condensation, and the environment here is truly ideal for it, temperature swings of 40F are not uncommon in 24 hrs as warm fronts move through. If my wife leaves the garage door open during one of these events, water condenses on everything, tool chests, engine blocks, vices etc.

Anecdotally, I've stuck my head into scores, perhaps hundreds of fuel tanks in my career, I have never once seen condensed water. I have seen water condense on the inside of a deck fill cap, however, that's different as it's likely to get colder overnight because it's exposed. I wrote a short column about condensation aboard, you can read it here https://www.cruisingworld.com/monthly-maintenance-condensation#page-2

My instinct is the vast majority of water in diesel fuel comes entrained in the fuel, from the transport truck or vessel, and from deck fills (I find a lot of deteriorated, and sometimes missing, O rings).

When designing fuel tanks I always include a sump for trapping water and debris, with either a drain (allowed by ABYC Standards for diesel tanks, but not gasoline) or stripper tube for removal from the tank top.

If you have the opportunity to have a tank (or boat) built, this is a worthwhile feature. Being able to easily remove water from a tank eliminates the need for biocides. Stripper tubes can be added to existing tanks as well, but the trap or sump is a key feature.

The fuel tank pictured in the opening of this article, http://stevedmarineconsulting.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/FuelTankDesign.pdf is one I designed, it includes a sump (the tank is on its side, the view is of the bottom as it's being lifted into the vessel).

I would agree that most all water found in fuel tanks come from other sources and not condensation - this is also what I have seen in very large fuel tank storage facilities.
 
I had old o'rings on my deck fitting.
I think I got water into the tanks thanks to Irma.
Today, they are going to put the boat in the strap bow up and my worker is going to drain 5 gallons from each fuel tank, looking for water.
 
Greetings,
Mr. fb. I'd put BIG money ($0.25) on the guess that the Aquabloc only degrades in contact with water/liquid. I've got quite a few in dry storage that I've had for years.


200.webp
 
Re: "I have always thought this was bs. Why doesn't it happen on cars? My boat goes through several seasons to include the Bahamas in winter and I have never seen a drop of water in three system."

It does happen in cars. It doesn't happen AS MUCH in cars because the fuel tank is not sitting in a water-cooled bilge that will typically be much cooler than the ambient air outside...you'll read about this in the link below.

re: "I have never seen a drop of water in three system."

How would ever you see it? Since the water is almost certailny never going to make up the pick-up pipes and into your fuel bowl, how would you know? Do you have transparent tanks? I for one can't see through the aluminum my tanks are made of.

Don't you think it odd that Practical Sailor would devote so much effort and testing to a problem that doesn't exist? Here are 25 hits on articles they've written on this "bs" including several tests of various biocides.


https://www.google.com/search?q="biocide"++"diesel"+site:practical-sailor.com



This one in particular...


https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/35_7/features/Diesel-Biocides_5800-1.html

While you're at it, what's your take on the photos that kick off this thread? what is that black slime on OP's filter? It can't have come in to the tanks, because he's been filtering every fuel fill before it came into the boat...
 
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The safe assumption is , there will be free water in any large fuel tank that spends most of it's life sitting. That is why Steve D designs fuel tanks with sumps. And FF preaching same forever. As has been done for over a century.

Debating the degree of condensation has in fact been done, by fuel suppliers that have a spec to meet. Thus busting their tails to design and operate pretty neat water catching systems prior to that fuel being delivered to the customer.

The amount of condensation related water in fuel farms is surprising and constantly measured by both water collected and analysis on both ends of the fuel farm. But, does it matter for us small use boaters? Probably not if you don't let water get into your tanks to begin with.

The three primary sources of water as mentioned on TF are deck fills, vents and fuel coolers. A fourth, rusty worn out tank tops on a neglected vessel with leaky teak decks. Another, the onshore storage tanks! :eek:
 
Greetings,
Mr. fb. I'd put BIG money ($0.25) on the guess that the Aquabloc only degrades in contact with water/liquid. I've got quite a few in dry storage that I've had for years.


200.webp

Thanks RT. If it were one I would just chuck it and buy a new one or if they were exposed and not sealed. But I don't want to throw away 6 if I can help it. Hey, did you notice OldDan's post above? He has a worker. Why don't we have workers? I really need one and am pretty sure you do too.
 
It can't have come in to the tanks, because he's been filtering every fuel fill before it came into the boat...

That isn't what he said.

Brian, if you're still bothering with this thread, what you are calling a day tank (in parentheses), sounds like it might be fairly large. Whether it is or isn't, it appears to have some contamination in it so if you have an inspection port it would be worth talking a look inside the tank and perhaps have it cleaned if you don't like what you see.

It also sounds like you fill this "day tank" from another, perhaps larger tank. You said you polish this fuel through a 2 mic filter when transferring fuel to the tank your engine draws from. You didn't mention whether that filter also picked up a lot of crud or not, but if not, it is likely just fine. I would suggest that you have your mic sizes switched, and the 2 mic filter s/b between the day tank and the motor. The 10 mic would be better positioned between the bulk and the day tank.

As Steve A and others have noted, the fact that you aren't seeing the drag (telltale) needle on the gauge show troublesome person vacuum means the filter is still working just fine, and actually improves in efficiency as crud loads up. But give the amount of stuff you're observing, taking a look inside that day tank seems prudent.
 
Greetings,
Mr. fb. "Why don't we have workers?" I've been waiting patiently for you to show up here wearing your tool belt...


200.webp



Wait...what?
 
Thermal ballast and moisture ingestion, adsorb vs. absorb

I'll second this, it's more urban legend than scientific fact. I don't believe condensation is as great a concern as many believe.

I carried out condensation testing of fuel tanks over the course of a winter in Virginia several years ago. I removed the access hatches to two tanks, one steel another aluminum, once a week for the entire winter, and looked inside. I never saw any signs of condensation, and the environment here is truly ideal for it, temperature swings of 40F are not uncommon in 24 hrs as warm fronts move through. If my wife leaves the garage door open during one of these events, water condenses on everything, tool chests, engine blocks, vices etc. ...

Ok...so the skeptics seem stuck on "how come I've never seen any water". Here's why they've never seen it. For Steve D., here is (specifically) why your tests produced a 'false negative'.

First, let's summarize some scientific facts I think everyone agrees on:

1) Diesel fuel absorbs water, up to it's saturation point, which is temperature dependent. Diesel fuel can absorb water directly from the air, or it can absorb it from condensation that adsorbs on the inside of the tank, or it can absorb it from a leaky-fuel fill. It doesn't matter where the water comes from. This dispels the myth that "there's no condensation in my tank because I haven't found any water". You won't see any of the water, no matter where it came from until (a) the fuel becomes saturated and then (b) the water precipitates out.

2) Water that is dissolved in saturated diesel fuel will precipitate out into liquid water at the bottom of the tank when the temperature of the fuel-water mix drops. Again, this is because the saturation point is temperature dependent. (Precipitation is different than condensation, which seems to be creating confusion here).

3) Where a cold, solid surface contacts moist air ('cold' meaning below the dew point), water will condense (adsorb) on that surface. Always. It just does. Water will continue to condense on the cold surface until the temperature of that surface rises above the dew-point.

4) Where a cold liquid surface contacts moist air, water will be absorbed directly into the liquid at a rate that is dependent on the relative saturation points of the liquid vs. the air, and on their relative temperatures differential.

Now, inside a tank half filled with diesel, in an environment where the temperature of the fuel is below the dew point of the moisture-laden air, the fuel is cooling the aluminum around the perimeter of the tank. Inside the tank, this is where the condensation will form, right near the fill level of the diesel fuel in the tank, and nowhere else. You haven't seen it (a) because you're not looking in the right place, and (b) your tank is in a floating vessel, and any slightest motion is continually rinsing any condensate off the sides of the tank, right along the tank fill level line.

This may become immediately and intuitively obvious the next time you look at a half-empty can of still-cold beer outside on a humid day. The condensation on the cold aluminum only goes up to (slightly above) the liquid level in the can. The upper sides and top of the can will be bone dry, because there is nothing to keep the temp of the aluminum below the dew point.

Next time you hear someone say "I looked inside the tank and didn't see any droplets on inside surfaces of the tank", now you know why they didn't see any. It's because of insufficient thermal ballast.

re: "If my wife leaves the garage door open during one of these events, water condenses on everything, tool chests, engine blocks, vices etc. ..."

No, not everything. Look harder next time. An empty aluminum can sitting on your vice will not have condensation on it. A thin sheet of aluminum or steel standing next to the engine block will not have any condensation on it. However, (as you observed) engine blocks, vices and the like will have lots of condensation because they are good sources of thermal ballast. They stay cold for a long time even as the air warms up. Compare this to a thin sheet of aluminum which will warm up rapidly with the surrounding air.

So...re-try your garage test like this:

Take a half-full aluminum tank of diesel. Put it next to that engine block. The next time you see condensation on the engine block, look, you will see it on the fuel tank, but only up to the liquid level in the tank.

This is because the liquid fuel in the tank provides the thermal ballast necessary to keep the aluminum below the dew-point long enough for the condensate to form.

Now think to yourself...what sort of magic can it be that is preventing condensation from forming on the inside of the tank (along the tank-fill line) while you are looking at the condensation on the outside of the same tank?

One possibility is that the fuel in the tank is very dry, very far from it's saturation point. In this case, the fuel itself can be acting as a dessicant, absorbing water quickly from the air, reducing the water content in the air and thereby limiting the amount of water adsorbing (condensing) in the tank. This is only temporary. Over time, the fuel will get closer and closer to saturation point and as it does, condensate formation will increase.

A prevous poster in this thread referenced another test performed by CMS, much as yours was, but with a lot more excruciating detail. He probably invested a hundred hours over the course of three years...but again using an empty aluminum tank. Of course he never found any condensate, just like he's never found any condensate on (or inside) an empty beer can! Boaters can thoroughly understand the concept of ballast in terms of the difference between the density of lead or cast iron and water, grasping the concept of thermal ballast should be a short step from there.

https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/thermal-ballast-or-whatever-its-called.951156/

Another issue has to do with the fuel tanks being located in a boat bilge versus in a garage, or strapped to the underside of a car. This is a critical element, and another reason you got a 'false negative' in your tests.

During the seasons and in the areas where 'moisture ingestion' of fuel is the biggest problem, the water temperature is significantly colder than the peak ambient air temp. This not only ensures your bilge will be much cooler than the ambient air, it keeps the fuel (aka thermal ballast) in your tanks that much cooler also. As one might expect, if you are in an area (or a season) where the water temperature is much closer to the air temp (like in the Carribean), you would see much less moisture ingestion. It doesn't matter if you are in 90% humidity, if you don't have a sufficient temperature differential, you're not going to have condensation.

To summarize...the three factors that drive moisture ingestion of diesel fuel in vented tanks are temperature differentials, dewpoint and thermal ballast. Any testing that does not accurately represent all three factors in a marine environtment simultaneously is bound to fail.

In particular, the recurring errors I have seen in all these testing efforts is the exclusion of thermal ballast, and a failure to consider bilge ambient temperatures.

Lastly...another repeated misconception in this thread takes the form of "if there was (liquid) water in my tanks, I would be seeing it in my filter bowl".

This is also wrong...I'll cover that separately.
 
Riverguy- I generally agree with what you posted, but there is one important detail that you left out: Air exchange through the vent system.

True that thermal inertia (ballast in your terms) of a half load of fuel will cause fuel to often be below the dewpoint of the outside air, depending on what the cold/warm fronts are doing. Those fronts can have quite wide swings of temp and humidity here in the southeast.

But there is not any significant flow of air in and out of the vent. Usually several feet of 5/8" ID hose. Yep due to thermal changes and barometric changes there will be some flow in and out of the vent. But do the math and the volume through those mechanisms is very small as a percentage of trapped air volume above the fuel level.

If there is not significant air flow through the tank from the outside air, the moisture content of the air above fuel simply will not change much.
 
I shall leave this discussion because I think the IRMA rain and old o'rings allow some of the rain into my tank.
 
Riverguy- I generally agree with what you posted, but there is one important detail that you left out: Air exchange through the vent system.

True that thermal inertia (ballast in your terms) of a half load of fuel will cause fuel to often be below the dewpoint of the outside air, depending on what the cold/warm fronts are doing. Those fronts can have quite wide swings of temp and humidity here in the southeast.

But there is not any significant flow of air in and out of the vent. Usually several feet of 5/8" ID hose. Yep due to thermal changes and barometric changes there will be some flow in and out of the vent. But do the math and the volume through those mechanisms is very small as a percentage of trapped air volume above the fuel level.

If there is not significant air flow through the tank from the outside air, the moisture content of the air above fuel simply will not change much.


Actually I touched on this earlier, should have included it above. The volume of a gas (like air) at constant pressure is directly proportional to it's temperature. So....if you have a large volume of air in your tanks, you will have them breathing in and out with every change in temperature.


Gas Laws



Not so coincidentally, this is why these vents are often called 'breathers'.



In a previous post I talked about the reason for keeping tanks full as being about reducing the expansion and contraction of air in the tanks - e.g. 'breathing'. Full tanks have less air in them, hence smaller "lung space" and therefore will ingest less wet air through temperature swings.


Empty tanks will breathe in and out much more than full tanks. This will dramatically increase the rates of both absorption and adsorption, fuel will become 'wet' faster.


Re: "If there is not significant air flow through the tank from the outside air, the moisture content of the air above fuel simply will not change much."


Bingo...and the only way to reduce airflow into and out of the tanks is to keep tanks as full as you (practically) can. The other benefit of full tanks is that the larger the volume of fuel you have in there, the more water the fuel can hold in suspension. More fuel volume means more 'thermal ballast', so wide temperature swings of the fuel itself will be less likely, and therefore lower the chance of water precipitating out of the fuel once it becomes saturated.
 
Riverguy: True that ideal gas laws apply to the exchange of gasses through the tank vent.

Do the math using both the thermal and barometric swings and see what the volumetric exchange actually is.

Subtract from the the volume in the length of hose as that will act as sort of a buffer.

Then calculate typical moisture content in that flow and see what the water content entering the tank actually is.

You will find that final number rather small.
 
Greetings,
Mr. fb. "Why don't we have workers?" I've been waiting patiently for you to show up here wearing your tool belt...


200.webp



Wait...what?

If I remember correctly I DID show up with belt sander in hand AND...I held the door while you sanded! So now...who’s turn is it?!?! Don’t give me that “I don’t like to drive” stuff. It’s I-95. A bad highway for sure but you can only die once.
 

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