Stuck injector insert/reducer

I was able to remove two out of three injector injector reducers for my MD2030, but the last one is not budging. I am concerned about damaging the injector threads or having metal shavings fall into the block. So far I have tried reverse pliers, which removed the other two; but the last one refuses to budge!

Is there a tool I should be using?

Thank you!

Can you heat the area around the reducer? That would expand the surrounding metal, and hopefully free it up to be removed with your reverse pliers.

Greetings,
Mr. VT. Copious amounts of PB blaster and gentle tapping around the periphery of the insert perhaps? May take a LONG time...

twistedtree said:

Can you heat the area around the reducer? That would expand the surrounding metal, and hopefully free it up...

Click to expand...

Along those lines. I’d put everything back together, run the engine up to full operating temperature. While the blocks still hot, try pulling that injector/reducer. We have a diesel van and that’s the procedure for stuck injectors. Keep us posted.

I used a tap to remove the heat shield washers on my Westerbeke W30. Worked great.

Move up in tap size until one just bites a little. Then pull out.

Another good penetrating oil is Kroil

Stuff some towels below it then soak it in kroil or pb blaster. Then look for a puller like the one in the link. If you can't find one. You can make one. Find some brass pipe that snug in the hole then cut 4 slits in one end Take a nut and grind a taper on one side. Thread it down in a carage bolt. Put the bolt/wedge asy in the end of the brass pipe. Find some heavy washers for the one end. Make sure to grease between the washers. Insert it into the hole. Tighten it up really good. Then you can give it some taps with a hammer and see if it frees up. If it don't. You will want to get a slide hammer and attach it to the end of the bolt.



https://www.amazon.com/8MILELAKE-In...earing+puller&qid=1553384629&s=gateway&sr=8-6

This is why I love this site! Thank you everyone! I hit the reducer with some penetrating oil (PB Blaster) and will let it soak until I can get back to the boat in a week or so. I have various taps that could work (great idea), but I am going to purchase a bearing remover slide hammer set as Big Cat suggests--it will be nice to have this in my garage. I can certainly apply heat with a mini torch if it is stubborn, but I am thinking the puller will work. The other two came out easily but the snap ring pliers barely had a grip.

I will report back next week with some good news. Thank you again!

Vacuum out the cylinders with a shop vac before you install the injectors. Just to make sure nothing fell in.

jleonard said:

Vacuum out the cylinders with a shop vac before you install the injectors. Just to make sure nothing fell in.

Click to expand...

Excellent advice! Will do!

I purchased a Blind Inner Internal Bearing Puller Slide Hammer Set from Amazon and tried to remove the stuck insert/sleeve.

Unfortunately, it just slips when I give it wack. I think the problem is with the puller as other reviewers seem to have the same problem. I need to find a better puller that doesn't slip when I give it a wack with the slide hammer.

Bummer it didn't work. What about cutting a small internal groove in the insert to give it something to grab? Also you could talk to a machinist about making a expanding collet to grab the insert tighter.

BIG CAT said:

Bummer it didn't work. What about cutting a small internal groove in the insert to give it something to grab? Also you could talk to a machinist about making a expanding collet to grab the insert tighter.

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Thanks, BigCat. Despite being ultra careful and covering the holes, I am paranoid about cutting and having debris fall into the block. I believe I just need to find a decent puller that can grab the inside groove--unlike the cheap Chinese made pullers with soft metal and beveled collets. I found a few others on Amazon with L shaped arms that might do the trick. As you suggest, I will consult a local machinist if all else fails. Hopefully, I will have some good news to share soon!

Do you really need to pull the insert? Or can it be left in place?

Ski in NC said:

Do you really need to pull the insert? Or can it be left in place?

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That is the same question my wife asked me after spending hours yesterday trying to pull it. In retrospect, I should have left it alone. Unfortunately, the face is buggered where I tried tapping it with a screw driver in an attempt to loosen it. It likely wouldn't seal with the copper washer at this point. There is a copper washer underneath the insert to replace, which is why I was trying to remove it.

I have it soaking in oil at the moment. I found this puller on Amazon that may provide a better grip than the one I used with beveled collets that only slipped. I also found this puller, which looks promising.

Buy American or European.

I would use a tap as was suggested earlier.
Grease up the tap then the few particles you cut will stick to the grease.
Run the shop vac next to the job as well for extra insurance.

Finally removed!!!!!

I was finally able to pull the insert!!! I used heat, penetrating oil, and a correct fitting bearing puller and slide hammer. I went through numerous pullers via Amazon and finally found one that had enough reach but wasn't too wide. Interestingly, there was no copper washer between the insert and head (unlike the other two cylinders). There appeared to be a leak, which created a resin/glue from the diesel. Perhaps this is why I had a hard time removing it. I am going to vacuum out the port and clean the threads before installing the new injector.

Thanks for everyone's help.

RTF, you make me laugh again!

Yes, that is indeed how I felt RTF!

Everything is easy when you have the right tool, at least that is what I tell my wife. She says I have never met a tool that I didn’t need.