Diesel Fuel Addtives

BruceK · Jan 28, 2012

There are many diesel fuel additives. What have you used,what did it do?

This may be more help to USA members than Aussies, as product brands may vary country to country.

To kick it off, I used "Afloc"( recommended by my ex Navy diesel mechanic as in use by the Army), in a final effort to avoid draining and scrubbing tanks in a previous boat. It quickly cleaned up a filter clogging tankful with a bad analysis. Afloc is off the market, I`m about to try "Fuelmaster" which makes similar claims to remove water and stop bugs. Both products warn of possible filter plugging (?dead bug residue) in the clean up phase, though it didn`t happen with Afloc.

What did you use (if anything),how did it go, what are the advantages/disadvantages of these products?

BruceK

-- Edited by BruceK on Saturday 28th of January 2012 09:28:18 PM

Jay N · Jan 29, 2012

Haven't seen the fuel additive question for a few months.

But I enjoy the conversation.

If you have a water-in-the diesel fuel issue, then you need to get the water out (drainage) and keep it out.* If there has been enough water in your diesel for enough time, you need an additive (such as Biobor)*to kill the bugs, then get the skeletons out (drainage/filters/tank cleaning).

Otherwise, no additive is needed or generally recommended by engine manufacturers (that I am aware of).

I have owned/operated*2 recreational boats for the past 38 years and thousands of operating hours, and other than a one-time use of an additive to kill*bugs, no other additives have been used.* I have also operated commercial vessels for thousands of hours without any*additive being used.

No. 2 diesel works great, and is really all that diesel engines need.* If a boat owner has a belief that an additive is needed, then an additive is needed.

rwidman · Jan 29, 2012

I'm a little concerned that the removal of sulphur from diesel fuel might cause enough reduction in lubrication to be a problem for my 1999 Volvo TAMD41 P. Perhaps it's not an issue, but I use an additive "just in case". The cost is minimal.

None of us have the equipment and expertise to actually test these things so we work pretty much on faith, advertising, and word of mouth.

I can say I've had no lubricity or water related problems since I've been using an additive but I don't know if I would have had problems if I hadn't been.

I'm using Stanadyne Performance Formula. along with Startron for any potential water problems. A company was at the marina polishing fuel in another boat and they said these were terrible products. Of course, they were selling a competitive product.

BTW: I haven't seen any elephants or tigers around my boat since I've been using these products. I'm not sure if that's the reason or not.*

RCook · Jan 29, 2012

Been using Stanadyne Performance Formula in my Cummins ISB truck and Volvo KAD44 boat engines most of the time for 13 years.* It was recommended, especially for lubricity, by Bosch, which makes the Volvo's fuel injection system.*

It's much harder to observe the effects in the boat, but I have paid close attention and compared with and without additive in the truck.* The Cummins truck engine smokes less, runs quieter (especially obvious when it's cold), seems to run smoother and have a bit more power, and seems to get about 5% better mileage when towing my 12K lb boat trailer.*

I can't observe the effect on lubricity, but my high-rpm KAD44 boat engine has 4636 hours so far and is in great shape.* I don't have issues with water or other contaminants in the fuel, so I can't comment on how it affects those.

I buy it in 6-pack cases of 1/2 gallon jugs, for less than $100/case.* I use 4-5 jugs in a summer of towing and cruising.* Pretty much pays for itself, I like what effect I can observe, and it seems like cheap insurance.

Carey · Jan 29, 2012

In sixteen years of ownership, I have never found it necessary to treat the fuel at all. I try to run the tanks fairly low before filling, to maintain fairly fresh fuel, but that's it.

Edelweiss · Jan 29, 2012

I use North Harbor Diesel for my engine work, they're the "authozied Perkins dealer" in my area and they don't*recommend the use of additonal additives.* That goes for both fuel and crankcase.*

However, so many people*insist on using additives, they began selling a few additve products,*which at the very least won't damage*their*engines.** Apparently, some additives do contain chemicals which are harmful and if I remember correctly what they said , it was mostly the ones for*treatment of moisture in the fuel system.* Must be alcohol or something?

My engines are 1976 and other than one valve job, have never been opened up.* All I've done is follow the maintenance schedule; check*the fluids regularly,*keep the fuel clean and you can't go wrong.

*

Larry B

FF · Jan 30, 2012

Additives for water come in 2 styles, emulsifying and de emulsifying.

One mixes the fuel and water so the filter may catch it.

The other drops the water to the bottom of the tank so it can be pumped.

Get what you need

Emulsifiers are for MINOR water (trapped in the purchased fuel) only.

BruceK · Jan 30, 2012

FF wrote:
Additives for water come in 2 styles, emulsifying and de emulsifying.

One mixes the fuel and water so the filter may catch it.

The other drops the water to the bottom of the tank so it can be pumped.
Thanks for the responses. "Fuelmaster" I`m about to use sounds like an emulsifier.

The tanks have a screw plug at the base,but no drain valve. At some point I`ll empty them and fit valves. Any reasons no to? I pumped from the tank base via tube attached to a dowel, no obvious water, but it`s visible in the filter bowls.

I understand water can come from condensation and keeping tanks full reduces condensation.

The old primary filter system on the boat was twin all metal canisters with replaceable elements, no drains.We put in Racor 215s, 2 micron filters; now I can see and drain water and crud. I`ll change to 10 microns* for my FL120s, per the current micron discussion.* BruceK

rwidman · Jan 30, 2012

RCook wrote:
Been using Stanadyne Performance Formula in my Cummins ISB truck and Volvo KAD44 boat engines most of the time for 13 years.* It was recommended, especially for lubricity, by Bosch, which makes the Volvo's fuel injection system.*

My (Volvo) owners manual states that no additives are needed or recommended and in the next paragraph, suggests using Stanadyne Performance Formula because of suspected low lubricity of "low sulphur" diesel fuel.* If I had it here, I would post the page just for grins.

*

FF · Jan 31, 2012

If your boat is an "inspected vessel" the USCG will not be happy ,

but installing a metal plug in the valve after use will usually get passed.

Datenight · Jan 31, 2012

The tanks have a screw plug at the base,but no drain valve. At some point I`ll empty them and fit valves. Any reasons no to? I pumped from the tank base via tube attached to a dowel, no obvious water, but it`s visible in the filter bowls.

*

*

Bruce,

You don't need to empty the tank. Remove the fill cap, put the shop vac on vacuum on the fill and turn it on. You can then remove the plug and add the valve with out emptying the tank.

I used that method on my mothers oil tank at home when replacing a leaky valve and on our boat. I did the same thing you want to do. I replaced the plug with a valve then screwed a plug into the valve as FF recomended.

Learned the trick from a plumber friend.

Rob*

37' Sedan

BruceK · Feb 5, 2012

Datenight wrote:
"You don't need to empty the tank. Remove the fill cap, put the shop vac on vacuum on the fill and turn it on. You can then remove the plug and add the valve with out emptying the tank."

Rob, That`sounds interesting, how does it work? Does the vac actually draw fuel into itself,or just apply a force which stops fuel running out the drain?

BruceK

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psneeld · Feb 5, 2012

Hope the vacuum is enough to overcome the "head" pressure at the bottom of the tank AND make sure you plug the vent!!!*

Datenight · Feb 5, 2012

BruceK wrote:
Rob, That`sounds interesting, how does it work? Does the vac actually draw fuel into itself,or just apply a force which stops fuel running out the drain?

BruceK

Bruce,

It worked on my mothers oil tank and on both my fuel tanks. No fuel was drawn into the vac. It pulled enough vacuum on the tank to keep it from leaking fuel. I did have the valves doped, a pan to catch spills and diapers all around.*
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Hope the vacuum is enough to overcome the "head" pressure at the bottom of the tank AND make sure you plug the vent!!!*

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*Scott,

I did not plug the vent on the oil tank or my fuel tanks on the advice of my plumber. I was dubious too but he said it worked. Tried it and it worked for me.

YMMV

Rob

37' Sedan

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psneeld · Feb 6, 2012

Must have been a big shop vac!* Although plugging the vent all the way with a big vac might start to collapse the sides if the tank isn't full enough....definitely a repair method to watch carefully

rwidman · Feb 6, 2012

Absolutely no way I would use a shop vac on gasoline.

For diesel or water, if you close the valves and plug the vent, very little should leak out if you prepare your fittings in advance and have them ready to screw in. A couple rags underneath to catch the spillage and you're ready to go..

marinetrader · Feb 6, 2012

I have used BioBor for the last 10 years. I had the tanks cleaned and the fuel polished last year; the technician told me that little was found in the fuel or tanks meaning the treatment was doing its job.

jleonard · Feb 6, 2012

rwidman wrote:
Absolutely no way I would use a shop vac on gasoline.

For diesel or water, if you close the valves and plug the vent, very little should leak out if you prepare your fittings in advance and have them ready to screw in. A couple rags underneath to catch the spillage and you're ready to go..

*Yes, just have a helper at the ready...because if you "fumble" and need to re-goop a fitting or drop the fitting,*you will need to keep your finger in the hole until another fitting is prepared, etc. Not that I have ever been there

BruceK · Feb 6, 2012

jleonard wrote:

*Yes, just have a helper at the ready...because if you "fumble" and need to re-goop a fitting or drop the fitting,*you will need to keep your finger in the hole until another fitting is prepared,

*We need the mythical Dutch lad who put a finger in the dyke, twice,it`s a 2 stage process,first get the thread specs; then fit valves after buying.

The "Fuelmaster"additive is in, boat refuelled @ $1.53 AUD per litre at new Sydney supplier. Seeing more crud and water in the "bad" tank filter bowl; "good" tank residue largely unchanged. Fortunately my US purchase of 10 mic Racor filter cartridges is almost here (6 filters + spare bowl + postage = cost of 3 filters here). BruceK

Datenight · Feb 6, 2012

psneeld wrote:
Must have been a big shop vac!* Although plugging the vent all the way with a big vac might start to collapse the sides if the tank isn't full enough....definitely a repair method to watch carefully

*Just a standard shop vac, five gallon Rigid. Did not plug the vent. See post above. As noted YMMV.

Rob

37' Sedan

Diesel Fuel Addtives

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