teak or fiberglass first?

We are going to redo the teak on our "new" boat as well as a full compound, wax, etc. on the exterior fiberglass. *Only exterior teak we have is a cap rail at the cockpit, toerail at the foredeck, and the bulkhead at the aft wall of salon/cockpit (it is in pretty good shape but rest is not). * What would you do first...refinish the teak or compound/buff the fiberglass? *Teak will require heat gun, etc. to strip old off *and then tape off for the new finish (debating between bristol, epiphanes, or just cetol).

What say ye?

Two enviable jobs that are so rewarding, it's difficult to choose. But for practicality, if the areas around or touching any teak also need compounding, I'd begin with that (compound only), then do the teak, then do the rest of the compound and wax. I'm also in the midst of such a rewarding project, namely re-skinning my hardtop, briefly spared by our attendance to Trawler Fest for seminars and such. The honeymoon is over now. Come-on down and we can trade jobs for a week or so.

Restored Monk 36 FOR SALE:

Not a response to your question, but a different inquiry.*I really like the granite counter top in your Monk. Did you install it yourself?* Was the*cost reasonable, including installation?***

Sensei says;* "Wax on* Wax off"*** KJ*






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-- Edited by KJ on Sunday 5th of February 2012 01:16:40 AM

Tony

Last year I came across a product that impressed me so much that I bought a case of it, (with a friend) so I will always have good results in redoing my fibreglass. It is by Collinite, and called Cleaner and Boat wax. #920 and 925. My 1980 fg has given me pause for many yrs, as to getting it to look shiny, instead of like the surface on the concrete docks. I have also used it to shine up my 98 Motorhome FG, and it has outperformed the Collinite RV cleaner/wax that came to me with the MH.

The cleaner took away all the oxidation built up over the years, ie, cleaned right down to the shine! So much easier than compounding. Then a couple of coats of wax and the shine and good look lasts. So far, in the MH, where we are at the moment, in Palm Springs CA, the shine I put on in October looks as good as the neighbours who did theirs yesterday.

As to which to do first, I would do the FG, as the rubbing you will give it would mar the fresh Epifanes you will put on the teak, whereas the varnishing will not touch the FG surfaces, as you will be careful with your brushing technique and will mask if you need to be sure. The heat gun won't affect the FG. Unless the teak is already done in Cetol, which must be removed, there should be no need to remove the varnish before redoing it. You will need to put a few more coats where there are holes in the varnish, but you can use the existing finish as a base for your new finish without worrying about its durability or appearance, so long as you sand it all with 120 and get good adhesion.

Pictures would be nice.


-- Edited by koliver on Monday 6th of February 2012 09:23:50 AM

Teak, then wax.

I use 3M brown compound, then Colllinite fleetwax paste.

I get conflicting answers from everyone on the docks and here. I am leaning towards, strip old teak, compound, refinish, then wax.

KJ, I didn't install the granite myself. A local granite firm did it- you need specialized tools to do it right and I don't have them. It was very affordable due to the small size of our galley in the Monk. I would get in touch with some local granite fabricators and have them come quote your vessel. Note that granite is VERY heavy...upwards of 25-40lbs. per sq. ft. depending on which granite you use. The monk tends to have a desire to list to port due to the amazing amount of storage on that side of the boat (list caused by so much owner's stuff stored there!). Our galley is to starboard thus the added weight counteracts that storage-caused list to port, or the potential for it to list to port. If you have a lot of counter space I would really recommend going with corian or another man-made product. Cost is about the same but the corian weighs significantly less than granite. Granite worked well for us in the Monk but for example, in our new boat, we will most likely go with corian or something similar due to weight since we have so much more counter space.

Yeah, I was gonna ask you about the weight thing. I like the corian also. My table and bar tops are corian and they really look nice.*

BUT, the granite looks very classy.********* KJ


-- Edited by KJ on Sunday 5th of February 2012 11:34:25 AM

KJ

I also did granite countertops last year. The granite ("Silestone" made principally of Quartz, bound together in an epoxy, so weighs about the same as natural granite, but less likely to crack in transit) is 2cm thick, so not as heavy as Tony's, which looks like 3cm.*

I put it in myself. It took some care with leveling, so as to get the joints to fit tight, but oridinary skill level is adequate. I had to use three separate pieces, to get it down into the galley, so put the joints where I thought they would stand out the least.

This reno allowed me to move the sinks 6" to the left, and the propane stovetop 4" to the left, so as to get better access to the stove.* In the photos, the trim at the back of the counter isn't yet varnished.* Once done, it gets rave reviews.


-- Edited by koliver on Monday 6th of February 2012 09:23:27 AM