shower sump goop cleaner

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The way I see people handle sludge at the bottom of the holding tank is to shoot water from a hose into their holding tank. Loosen it up, pump out, and do it again. If you do it regularly, it should be easier moving forward.

I am not upset at the least with Peggie. Just asking, requesting further enlightenment. Peggie has solved MANY problems here and I welcome her knowledge, comments and recommendations.

Per using a hose to break up the sludge in the sanitary tank, "Mystery" what time are you showing up. LOL

I can only relate to you my experience with opening the sanitary tank on the Nordhavn. It was steel, perhaps stainless steel. I had been using OSORLOS on an irregular basis. Upon opening the tank, a leak in the steel pump out elbow, it was clean and no sludge but sure did smell. LOL
The sanitary tank on my AT34 is a "plastic" tank. I guess I will start using OSORLOS in this tank too unless, Peggie can see a reason not to use it. SMILE

Tomorrow, I will put a 'best guess' couple of OZ in the shower and sink drain box via the head shower and sink drains after we have uses it.

Thanks again Peggie for your wisdom, comments and recommendations.
 
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It is impossible to clean the toilet bowl without pumping it into the holding tank.

I was hoping for a product that would attack the sludge in the sanitary tank.
Oh well, cleaning the shower/sink box is good enough.


KO is their corresponding holding tank treatment product. CP is said to be compatible with KO (useful, since it travels from bowl to tank), whereas some bowl cleaners aren't so much.

Or Noflex advertises it's good for sludge. Presumably CP is also compatible.

-Chris
 
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We use "Forget About It" in our holding tank. It's a 100% natural proprietary concoction that uses as its primary ingredient probiotic lactic acid bacteria to eat organic material. It eliminates sludge and odor from the system. And though we've used it in the bilge after the sump pump failed (and we ended up with a bunch of stinky shower stuff in there), it wasn't until reading this thread that I realized it might work in the sump itself to keep things clean.

I'll let y'all know what we find out...
 
We use "Forget About It" in our holding tank. It's a 100% natural proprietary concoction that uses as its primary ingredient probiotic lactic acid bacteria to eat organic material. It eliminates sludge and odor from the system. And though we've used it in the bilge after the sump pump failed (and we ended up with a bunch of stinky shower stuff in there), it wasn't until reading this thread that I realized it might work in the sump itself to keep things clean.

I'll let y'all know what we find out...

I wonder if it would "eat" hair? Please do keep us posted! Thank you
 
My grey water sump bilge pump could suck start a Harley Davidson, the issue is a sticking Rule flipper switch. I hate those switches.
Hoping a magic potion will stop it sticking,disinclined to bless the grey tank with a Johnson Ultra.

For anyone who still has a shower sump and hates dealing with it as much as I did (the gray goop, the failing float switch, the failing pump, etc., etc., etc.) - replace it with a Whale Gulper Gray IC, and forget about it.
https://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product.aspx?Category_ID=&Product_ID=10040

I did, several months ago. Other than hearing it "gulp" when it kicks on (which I could quiet if it bothered me), I don't even think about my two showers and three sinks that drain into it.
 
Replace those bugs

I have no experience with holding tanks on a boat or the anaerobic digestion process, so please have mercy on this post.

would a residential septic tank product like Rid x help in a holding tank to alleviate some of the build up of solids? I would think a lot of the problem with smells and build up would come from having the tank pumped out often, as it would remove any beneficial anaerobic organisms that are digesting the solid materials in the tank. A product like Rid x, or bugs in a box as we like to call them, are supposed to replace these bugs. Even in a residential septic system it is often recommended to add such a product after the septic tank is pumped out and cleaned.
 
I have no experience with holding tanks on a boat or the anaerobic digestion process, so please have mercy on this post.

would a residential septic tank product like Rid x help in a holding tank to alleviate some of the build up of solids? I would think a lot of the problem with smells and build up would come from having the tank pumped out often, as it would remove any beneficial anaerobic organisms that are digesting the solid materials in the tank. A product like Rid x, or bugs in a box as we like to call them, are supposed to replace these bugs. Even in a residential septic system it is often recommended to add such a product after the septic tank is pumped out and cleaned.

Capitaine, I have asked this same question of other knowledgable boater and instructors. The answer was always the same, "Dont". In other words, never a satisfactory answer. Of course, the dosage would need to be adjusted..... Home septic tanks are usually concrete so nothing hurts them. I have no idea how Rid x would react to steel or plastic tanks. SHRUG. Also, home septic tanks go for years without being pumped, not so on a boat.
 
I have no experience with holding tanks on a boat or the anaerobic digestion process, so please have mercy on this post.

would a residential septic tank product like Rid x help in a holding tank to alleviate some of the build up of solids? I would think a lot of the problem with smells and build up would come from having the tank pumped out often, as it would remove any beneficial anaerobic organisms that are digesting the solid materials in the tank. A product like Rid x, or bugs in a box as we like to call them, are supposed to replace these bugs. Even in a residential septic system it is often recommended to add such a product after the septic tank is pumped out and cleaned.


Better to read Peggie's book, with more explanation about aerobic vs. anaerobic systems, and why boats usually shouldn't have "septic" (anaerobic) holding tanks.

-Chris
 
I have no experience with holding tanks on a boat or the anaerobic digestion process, so please have mercy on this post.

You're starting from a false premise: that the holding tank on a boat is a septic (anaerobic) system. Treat it as one and it's guaranteed to stink because anaerobic systems can only be odorless if they're kept absolutely still...which is impossible on a boat. Keeping a marine holding tank or composter odor free requires that be maintained AEROBICALLY.

...would a residential septic tank product like Rid x help in a holding tank to alleviate some of the build up of solids?

Another boat owner on a quest to find products that can just be poured in a tank or the bilge or....instead of doing any hands-on maintenance <sigh> Why not just prevent the buildup instead? Flushing out the tank 2-3/x year, and especially in preparation for winter or other extended layup, is the best way to PREVENT sludge buildup and very easy to do.

I would think a lot of the problem with smells and build up would come from having the tank pumped out often, as it would remove any beneficial anaerobic organisms that are digesting the solid materials in the tank.

Nope...there are no "beneficial anaerobic organisms" in a holding tank. It's the anaerobic organisms that create the odor.

Bio-physics 101: When organic matter breaks down anaerobically it generates anaerobic gasses--sulfur dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, which not only stink but are toxic, and methane which is odorless but flammable. But when organic matter breaks down AEROBICALLY, it converts to CO2 which is odorless. Which explains why running streams don't stink, but stagnant ponds do...why it's necessary to toss/aerate compost piles, and why holding tank odor can be eliminated by increasing the amount oxygen/air exchange in the tank. That can usually be done passively by shortening, straightening and increasing vent line diameter but sometimes aeration is the only thing that works.

I've posted volumes about this here and on other sites in the and have written two books (see link in my signature) that explain how to set up a system that functions aerobically in detail. And I'm always glad to answer questions that aren't answered either place.

(This thread seems to have drifted away from sumps etc into holding tank maintenance...perhaps one of our mods might move it to a new more apppropriate home)

--Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
 
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And today, I shall recount my experience with CP in the shower and sink and drain box.
I poured a few ounces into the shower and sink drain to set. I put a couple of ounces into the drain box too. I let it sit for about 3 hours. Meanwhile I cleaned the strainer in the drain box.
I flushed the 2 drains and wiped down the drain box. CP made the sludge in the box easier to clean up.
I went to put the strainer back in, not to be found. I misplaced it between the cockpit and the shower box. Ah ha, I thought, I shall use the spare strainer. Not to be found. How can I misplace or lose things inside a boat that is WLL of 32ft and beam of 13ft?
 
If it did that much in just 3 hours, imagine what it might have accomplished if you'd followed the directions to use it when it can stand at least overnight (see post #7)!


--Peggie
 
I have no experience with holding tanks on a boat or the anaerobic digestion process, so please have mercy on this post.

You're starting from a false premise: that the holding tank on a boat is a septic (anaerobic) system. Treat it as one and it's guaranteed to stink because anaerobic systems can only be odorless if they're kept absolutely still...which is impossible on a boat. Keeping a marine holding tank or composter odor free requires that be maintained AEROBICALLY.

...would a residential septic tank product like Rid x help in a holding tank to alleviate some of the build up of solids?

Another boat owner on a quest to find products that can just be poured in a tank or the bilge or....instead of doing any hands-on maintenance <sigh> Why not just prevent the buildup instead? Flushing out the tank 2-3/x year, and especially in preparation for winter or other extended layup, is the best way to PREVENT sludge buildup and very easy to do.

I would think a lot of the problem with smells and build up would come from having the tank pumped out often, as it would remove any beneficial anaerobic organisms that are digesting the solid materials in the tank.

Nope...there are no "beneficial anaerobic organisms" in a holding tank. It's the anaerobic organisms that create the odor.

Bio-physics 101: When organic matter breaks down anaerobically it generates anaerobic gasses--sulfur dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, which not only stink but are toxic, and methane which is odorless but flammable. But when organic matter breaks down AEROBICALLY, it converts to CO2 which is odorless. Which explains why running streams don't stink, but stagnant ponds do...why it's necessary to toss/aerate compost piles, and why holding tank odor can be eliminated by increasing the amount oxygen/air exchange in the tank. That can usually be done passively by shortening, straightening and increasing vent line diameter but sometimes aeration is the only thing that works.

I've posted volumes about this here and on other sites in the and have written two books (see link in my signature) that explain how to set up a system that functions aerobically in detail. And I'm always glad to answer questions that aren't answered either place.

(This thread seems to have drifted away from sumps etc into holding tank maintenance...perhaps one of our mods might move it to a new more apppropriate home)

--Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein




Well I'm glad I asked the question and received a intelligent answer, but I never said I was going to use the Ridx product . I was intending to help the other posters that said they had build up on the bottom of their tanks that they wanted to get rid of. I don't believe I fall into this category "Another boat owner on a quest to find products that can just be poured in a tank or the bilge or....instead of doing any hands-on maintenance" as I do all my own maintenance on my boats and all of my cars, heavy equipment and rental properties. And if we purchase the CP product aren't we pouring in a product to make our lives easier instead of doingthe hands on cleaning of the shower sump? seems like a double standard to me.
 
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If it did that much in just 3 hours, imagine what it might have accomplished if you'd followed the directions to use it when it can stand at least overnight (see post #7)!
--Peggie

You know how men are. "We don't need no stinking directions."
And we are always looking for immediate results.
Plus, I am so old and the print is so small even with my reading glasses.

STILL haven't found the strainer but, the nap was good.
 
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I have no experience with holding tanks on a boat or the anaerobic digestion process, so please have mercy on this post.

You're starting from a false premise: that the holding tank on a boat is a septic (anaerobic) system. Treat it as one and it's guaranteed to stink because anaerobic systems can only be odorless if they're kept absolutely still...which is impossible on a boat. Keeping a marine holding tank or composter odor free requires that be maintained AEROBICALLY.

...would a residential septic tank product like Rid x help in a holding tank to alleviate some of the build up of solids?

Another boat owner on a quest to find products that can just be poured in a tank or the bilge or....instead of doing any hands-on maintenance <sigh> Why not just prevent the buildup instead? Flushing out the tank 2-3/x year, and especially in preparation for winter or other extended layup, is the best way to PREVENT sludge buildup and very easy to do.

I would think a lot of the problem with smells and build up would come from having the tank pumped out often, as it would remove any beneficial anaerobic organisms that are digesting the solid materials in the tank.

Nope...there are no "beneficial anaerobic organisms" in a holding tank. It's the anaerobic organisms that create the odor.

Bio-physics 101: When organic matter breaks down anaerobically it generates anaerobic gasses--sulfur dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, which not only stink but are toxic, and methane which is odorless but flammable. But when organic matter breaks down AEROBICALLY, it converts to CO2 which is odorless. Which explains why running streams don't stink, but stagnant ponds do...why it's necessary to toss/aerate compost piles, and why holding tank odor can be eliminated by increasing the amount oxygen/air exchange in the tank. That can usually be done passively by shortening, straightening and increasing vent line diameter but sometimes aeration is the only thing that works.

I've posted volumes about this here and on other sites in the and have written two books (see link in my signature) that explain how to set up a system that functions aerobically in detail. And I'm always glad to answer questions that aren't answered either place.

(This thread seems to have drifted away from sumps etc into holding tank maintenance...perhaps one of our mods might move it to a new more apppropriate home)

--Peggie


Now that's a CLEAR answer, thank you Peggy.
:flowers:
 
If you have any Noflex on board try it in the sump it will break down the soap scum that glues together the hair and get rid of any smells. If lucky the hair will be push up and out of drain or just flow thru.
Just wipe out by hand after
Caustic products that liquefy the hair but its not recommend using for marine.
 
Good ol white vinegar works for us. Try to stay away from chenicals living on a fresh water lake we like to keep it as natural as possible
 
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