Paint suggestions.

Well guys, I'm going to start painting the Rose next week. It's white on white and the po used Awegrip on the hull 20 years ago and it holds up well. We are going to paint the rest of the boat (-) the hull for now. May wet sand the hull later when it on the yard or I might repaint the hull if it doesn't come back. Here are a few pictures and I just want a paint that will hold up well.

Awlcraft 2000
See The Hull Paint link for more info
http://dkloeber.wixsite.com/bacchus/links

I’m also a fan of Awlcraft 2000. It’s an acrylic 2 part so it’s fast drying. You really can’t roll and tip so you have to spray. Touch up is easy. We use a Preval sprayer. You can blend in the new to the old and if you get a run or overspray, both can easily be wet sanded out. The paint is very similar to an automotive paint with the color all the way through. It’s not as hard as Awlgrip though.

We used Interlux one part poly on the cabin sides.We rolled and tipped and it came out ok. It was the best I thought we could use while in the covered slip and manage on our own. If I was paying someone I would use something better and spray it .

I used Interlux Perfection on the raised diamond pattern deck non-skid. Applied with a brush because I was concerned that a sprayer would fill in the depressions between the diamonds. Two part paint, very hard, able to touch up. Thinned it about 15%. I like the stuff a lot. Pretty stinky for about an hour after application.


This coming summer I'm going to repaint the black trim around windows. I'll be using a recently acquired HVLP turbine sprayer. Portable, compact, low over spray, very good atomization and spray patterns. Noise level is about the same as a home vacuum cleaner. I'll be plugging it in to an outlet inside the boat and running the 1" hose out through a hatch or window. About $700 for a model that's capable of good atomization. Worth it for a large job.

Greetings,
Mr. s. I don't recall seeing such a sweeping side picture of the Rose. THAT'S a nice boat!

Thanks RT! I’ll check into awecraft

The two part polyurethanes are more UV resistant than the acrylics.
If you’re going to spray it I suggest you stick to Awlgrip.
If you are going to brush or roll I’d go with Interlux Perfection.
Port Townsend Watercraft has developed a technique that allows you to just roll it on without tipping and the roller marks flow out leaving a beautiful gloss. You can download a pdf of the instructions for less than $5.00.
?...By the way Rolling Perfection took me from very erratic results rolling and tipping to a star painter with gloss so shiny you use it to shave with. *Thanks...? D.P. ?rocketkayak?

No matter what you decide on these Flood products are used by many professionals well worth a look The Flood Company Australia » Paint Additives » introduction

HopCar said:

...If you are going to brush or roll I’d go with Interlux Perfection.
Port Townsend Watercraft has developed a technique that allows you to just roll it on without tipping and the roller marks flow out leaving a beautiful gloss. You can download a pdf of the instructions for less than $5.00.
?...By the way Rolling Perfection took me from very erratic results rolling and tipping to a star painter with gloss so shiny you use it to shave with. *Thanks...? D.P. ?rocketkayak?

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Thanks. I’ll look at Interlux Perfection. I need to refinish/paint several areas on Hobo’s upper areas. Being in a marina, they frown on spraying in the slip. And the link, for $3.50 for the digital version that’s a definite. If I can get away from spraying that would be great.

Do all your prep and taping in the slip. Then get a small compressor or roller, and anchor somewhere with no wind and shoot it. Boat that big it will take a day for one coat no matter how you do it. You won't bother anyone, and they won't bother you.

That's my plan for painting the trim on our boat. The HVLP turbine system makes it a snap. Suitcase size, quiet, low overspray (minimizes masking). Perfect for boat work. I'm currently painting my old resto-mod pickup using a five stage turbine setup. Impressive in its simplicity and the quality of the paint lay down. If it wasn't for the smell during cure of urethane concoctions, I'm sure I would be allowed to paint inside our winter storage building. So, I'll drop the hook and shoot the trim areas on the lower sides of the hull from the dink.

Hop, excellent post and link....thanks!

HopCar said:

The two part polyurethanes are more UV resistant than the acrylics.
If you’re going to spray it I suggest you stick to Awlgrip.
If you are going to brush or roll I’d go with Interlux Perfection.
Port Townsend Watercraft has developed a technique that allows you to just roll it on without tipping and the roller marks flow out leaving a beautiful gloss. You can download a pdf of the instructions for less than $5.00.
?...By the way Rolling Perfection took me from very erratic results rolling and tipping to a star painter with gloss so shiny you use it to shave with. *Thanks...? D.P. ?rocketkayak?

Click to expand...

HopCar said:

The two part polyurethanes are more UV resistant than the acrylics.
If you’re going to spray it I suggest you stick to Awlgrip.
If you are going to brush or roll I’d go with Interlux Perfection.
Port Townsend Watercraft has developed a technique that allows you to just roll it on without tipping and the roller marks flow out leaving a beautiful gloss. You can download a pdf of the instructions for less than $5.00.
?...By the way Rolling Perfection took me from very erratic results rolling and tipping to a star painter with gloss so shiny you use it to shave with. *Thanks...? D.P. ?rocketkayak?

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Thanks for the tip, purchased, downloaded and read it cover to cover.

swampu said:

Well guys, I'm going to start painting the Rose next week. It's white on white and the po used Awegrip on the hull 20 years ago and it holds up well. We are going to paint the rest of the boat (-) the hull for now. May wet sand the hull later when it on the yard or I might repaint the hull if it doesn't come back. Here are a few pictures and I just want a paint that will hold up well.

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Sounds strange but you might want to try Rustoleum Marine Topside paint. I repainted my Boston Whaler 5 years ago and it still looks good. I live in South Florida and when the boat isnt being used in the Florida sun, its sitting on a trailer in the sun.

5 years later and it still holds its finish. I started painting the trim and doors of my house with it as well. It flows out to a mirror finish and can be rolled, brushed or sprayed.

The best part is that its a helluva lot less expensive than anything else and available at the big box home improvement stores.

The downside is that you get your choice of color as long as its white.

I've painted over 2 dozen boats (paid). The whole job depends on PREP regardless of paint. So if you shot change paint quality that's the job you get. Painting from a dink, meh. Spraying urethanes without a FORCED AIR RESPIRATOR IS FOOLISH TO THE MAX. That sh*t will KILL you.
I roll and tip AWLGRIP, the paint t is expensive but a 40' sundeck marine grade took a quart per coat, 2 coats. So really not that bad.
Best of luck

Why would you not use Awlgrip again?
It’s lasted 20 years, I’d say it’s paid you for a quality paint job.
Awlgrip will roll/tip nicely, no need to spray, and though it seems costly, coverage is phenomenal, and you’ll use way less than you’d think.

Southx10 said:

Spraying urethanes without a FORCED AIR RESPIRATOR IS FOOLISH TO THE MAX. That sh*t will KILL you.

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If you're thinking about the cloud of mist/vapor associated with conventional spray guns I'd agree with you. However, HVLP turbine spray systems produce virtually no overspray/mist/cloud. Eastwood sells a throw away, isocyanate rated mask for peanuts. Full plasticized painters suit is about $10 at Home Depot. Perfect paint jobs fast, easy, and safe.

An all-white boat isn't very visible in fog. A combination of dark paint, white, and something bright like yellow, increases the possibility that others will notice you.

The only respirator US Paint (awlgrip) will recommend or certify is forced air. But they probably don't really know what they're talking about. It's your lungs and life.

Is that a wooden boat?

Southx10 said:

The only respirator US Paint (awlgrip) will recommend or certify is forced air. But they probably don't really know what they're talking about. It's your lungs and life.

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The following is from Awlgrip's web site. The objective is to keep vapors and mist off body surfaces and out of the lungs. There is more than one way to do that. Awlgrip does not certify respirators. The one I am using is NIOSH approved for isocynates. I wear a hooded painters suit and a face shield.

"Do not get in eyes, on skin or on clothing. Use solvent resistant safety eyewear with splash guards. Solvent impermeable gloves, clothing and boots should be worn to prevent skin contact. When applying an Awlgrip, Awlcraft 2000, Awlcraft SE or any other isocyanate containing product, a respirator that is approved for use with such products must be used. A positive pressure air supplied respirator (TC19C NIOSH/MSHA approved) is recommended.

I can't even imagine wearing all of that in 90 degree temps. I prefer roll and tip, just easier to me and less dangerous.

Southx10 said:

I can't even imagine wearing all of that in 90 degree temps. I prefer roll and tip, just easier to me and less dangerous.

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And it avoids all that masking prep that spraying requires.

Southx10 said:

I can't even imagine wearing all of that in 90 degree temps. I prefer roll and tip, just easier to me and less dangerous.

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If you follow Awlgrip's advice, you better be wearing a non-absorbant painter's coverall and a face/eye shield (everything except the respirator) to deflect splatters/spills...even if you roll and tip. Your exposure is not much different than when using a low overspray turbine system. You prefer roll and tip because that's what you know and it's cheap. You've also probably seen photos of spray operations in booths using high pressure paint guns...nasty clouds of vapor and obviously dangerous. You might want to read up on high performance HVLP turbines. I don't paint...spray (HVLP only), roll or brush...when it's 90 degrees with bugs flying around and too hot to wear proper protective devices. Your concern with isocyanates is well placed, but it seems you don't follow your own (and Awlgrip's) advice. That stuff can kill you....

I had our boat painted last spring. They tip/rolled (really, mainly rolled) Awlgrip and it came out very nice. They did it outside in a working yard. 90% of the job was prep. They mixed 8-12oz at a time.
With the 20yrs you got out of your current Awlgrip, I am not sure why you would not use it again.

The manufacturer has considerable liability, so he must overstate safety in order t cover his ass.
Working outdoors, or with good ventilation, you’ll likely get away with less than prescribed, however do be cautious.
That said, I recently lost a buddy who was the local Awlgrip pro, not fond of using much in the way of PPE, he didn’t see 50...

Well my painter got busted for a felony, looks like I’ll be finishing the paint job my self, I definitely want to roll and tip, I’m going to stick with awegrip and luckily he did all the over head sanding before he got arrested

Those pesky LE officers won’t let anything go will they?

A rough way to learn how to roll and tip but you’ll be a pro when you’re done.