filling a wedge shaped void and epoxy over .

I have a marine trader that has a hatch that is half over the lazarette and half over the aft cabin birth . bad design . the half over the birth holds water and has a bad drain system . I want to use a wedge filler epoxied and fiber glassed in .to make the water run into a channel with a drain . can I plane down a 2x12 and epoxy it in or should I get coosa board . the pipe on it now has ruined the wall inside .it leaks water just enough to keep the wall damp.

so questions
1. can I plane down a 2x12 and epoxy it in or should I get coosa board or other wood or foam product?
2. I am planning to cut drains into drain loop around hatch in the middle the boat floats bow down so the water never makes it to the rear drains .any problems expected there?
3. I am going to remove the pvc drain channel and replace with fiber glass pipe and do away with the wood at the end because of the leaks is it ok to just fiber glass the new pipe to the deck down the side and at the ends?
4. what are the best fittings to glass into the pipe to connect 1/2 hose to?
5. someone has already replaced this wall once does anyone have this setup on there boat or know what the original setup was?
6. is the bulkhead suppose to support the sandwich construction deck?

I know that's a lot of questions thanks in advance .

My original lazarette hatch was built with channels and drains . The drains never worked right and it wound up rotting out.I racked my brain trying to figure out a new flush hatch with gutters and drains. I finally said screw it and built a raised hatch. It stays dry below and we’ve never regretted the decision. Sure we stumped our toe a couple times until we got used to it. I know this is no answer to your questions but maybe an option.

pack mule that looks nice . if I ever get around to removing the teak i'm going to fill the front in to blend in. why would they put a hatch over a ceiling ?

PAC mule ... I like your deck .. what is it ???

Pack Mule said:

My original lazarette hatch was built with channels and drains . The drains never worked right and it wound up rotting out.I racked my brain trying to figure out a new flush hatch with gutters and drains. I finally said screw it and built a raised hatch. It stays dry below and we’ve never regretted the decision. Sure we stumped our toe a couple times until we got used to it. I know this is no answer to your questions but maybe an option.

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Timb : My 1987 Marine Trader 38 had EXACTLY the same piece-of-junk aft hatch design that you are having to deal with. By the time I bought the boat, that leaking hatch had rotted the lazarette bulkhead to the point that I had to replace the entire bulkhead. I completely agree with the solution suggested by Pack Mule. My raised hatch is not nearly as pretty as Pack Mule's hatch, but I used the same idea. By the way, my new raised hatch is smaller than the original flush-deck hatch because the portion of the hatch that used to be over the aft stateroom has been turned into solid "deck", not leaking "hatch". I think the guy at Marine Trader that came up with that original hatch design was on drugs. Just remember, Tim, you were put on this earth to suffer.


By the way, I should be passing through your neck of the woods in March/April of 2019.


Good luck with your hatch project.

My attempt to make a raised hatch frame i

timb said:

My attempt to make a raised hatch frame i

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Looks good so far. I would guess that the most difficult part is done now. Are you going to put any teak on the lid to match your deck?

I'm just getting started I made a frame to fit the whole opening that had a low side to hopefully match the teak height then it re thought it and cut off the lower section and add a piece to hold up one edge of the coosa board that now will be as high as the fiberglass around it . I may try to savage teak off the old hatches to do the deck level but the hatch will probably be gelcoat with walnut shells to start with .

I am unsure how to glass the low side in with teak around it.