Caulking around Wood Windows

If you believe what a sika rep told a mate of mine who has a sizeable boatbuilding business specializing in timber boats, the story goes that all sika is pretty much the same, its a polyurethane sealant adhesive.

He put me onto the 600ml sausages a far cheaper way to buy it.
Its the only thing holding our solar panels to the roof and they have seen big wind aplenty.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?q=Sika 600ml&redirectFrom=Any

Dolphinite , because this may be your first rebed , it surely won't be the last.

You need a sealant not a glue , so there is no risk to breaking the wood on next removal.

Pettit - Dolfinite Natural Bedng - 742005110 - Explosive Powersports

General rule for silicone: Nothing sticks to silicone - silicone doesn't even stick to silicone. Silicone? Thanks, but no silicone.


I take that back. Magic goo sticks to silicone and, special deal, I will include three tubes, absolutely free, of magic goo with every hundred acres of Florida swampland that you buy in the next thirty minutes. Call 1-800-urscrewed, RIGHT NOW.


Actually, mildew inextricably sticks to silicone. Don't mess with Mother Nature.

Westiculo said:

1 vote for butyl tape (if you're using screws to hold them in)
if you're counting on the caulk as an adhesive (that's totally fine), I vote for 3m 4000

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Sikaflex 295 UV is meant for windows.Doesn't sag,cures quickly

NWSeadog said:

Captain Tolley's is $8.96 US for 2 oz / 60 ml at Fisheries Supply in Seattle. Around here West Marine will price match that. https://www.fisheriessupply.com/capt-tolley-captain-s-creeping-crack-cure-ctcc

Now the question I have is will it fix some minor window leaks.

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By your photo you have a CHB. Capt Tolly sealer should work fine. Here is how local CHB application is made. Run the bead along the top of the wood frames and down the sides. Then on the bottom edge on the glass meets wood surface. Apply and observe where the sealer disappears. wait about 15 minutes, and repeat. at this time the product should be rejected as the crack or leak is full, however as you apply the second, again note where the fluid disappears. You now pretty much know where the leak is and applications to that segment till it rejects fluid. Of course, the surfaces are better served if dry or limited moisture falling or present. Moist wood out of sight, of course, will have to be accepted. Over time the sealer will size as it is intended.

An adjacent boat to me, having deck placed hand rails was suffering leaks. Appling around the deck fittings till no more accepted cured the ills of that issue.

I keep a couple of bottles on hand for the purpose of helping same set of leaking needs of fellow boaters. CHB owners are the most frequent due to faulty design of the wood framed windows. It is an assumed problem with all the various Chinese CHB builders, although I believe one of the later builders installed window units that did not use wood framing.

It is my understanding and if I am in error please correct, that the process during construction was to cut out the window area exposing the between skin of outside fiberglass and interior veneer usually filled with bits and pieces of foam material, and install the glass unit without sealing the circumference of the window cutout allowing the exposed foam to absorb leaking water from around the wood frames that by nature, expand and shrink with weather conditions creating gaps allowing the leak to develop.


Regards,
Al-Ketchikan
a

A.K.

Thanks for the detailed info. It is very helpful. We have a couple of windows with very minor leaks that Capt. Tolley's should work well on and an aft cabin window that probably needs to be rebedded since the leak is quite large. Not looking forward to the thought of replacing the bungs and getting the stain to match.

We keep the boat stored under cover so rain is not an issue with using Capt. Tolley's. Have you ever applied it in cooler weather (low 40's). I wonder how it would dry between applications.

Thanks again for the info.

NWSeadog said:

A.K.

Thanks for the detailed info. It is very helpful. We have a couple of windows with very minor leaks that Capt. Tolley's should work well on and an aft cabin window that probably needs to be rebedded since the leak is quite large. Not looking forward to the thought of replacing the bungs and getting the stain to match.

We keep the boat stored under cover so rain is not an issue with using Capt. Tolley's. Have you ever applied it in cooler weather (low 40's). I wonder how it would dry between applications.

Thanks again for the info.

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Actually our average temperature in in the high 40's so that factor is not in play. I am not sure what "Between applications" relates, The substance reacts to air temps quite nicely, like if you have a bit on your fingers, within a few moments or a couple of minutes, you will have sticky fingers, if you get the drift. In place, it will always have a flexible tone, except when the two surfaces are solid, like two pieces of glass stuck together, which is another application.
Perhaps this site will give you greater appreciation of the products ability to solve leaks.

https://www.boat-renovation.com/captain-tolleys-creeping-crack-cure-full-review/


Regards, Al-Ketchikan