I give you criteria, you select the Boat!

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Absolutely no experience offshore. But if I wanted a go anywhere, anytime, anyplace type of boat I'd look at what commercial fishermen use and convert it to liveaboard...
 
OldDan1943 said:
Dont forget to look at the American Tug.
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American Tug and any fiberglass boats would be out of the running for me based on his newly revealed Arctic travel criteria. List shortens to steel hulls,DD's or custom builds. Lots available in his price range.
 
Interesting factoid:

There are only 2 40 foot boats that have a CE A certification. The Nordhavn 40 and the MJM 40z. ( of course that came from MJM's website....Beneteau says their 35 foot sailboats are A rated )


I didn't realize the "significant wave height" is not the "maximum wave height", it is merely the average of the highest 1/3 of the waves, so a boat must be able to endure even larger than what's listed in the definitions below

Category A — Ocean. Category A covers largely self-sufficient boats designed for extended voyages with winds of over Beaufort Force 8 (over 40 knots), and significant wave heights above 13 feet, but excluding abnormal conditions such as hurricanes.

Category B — Offshore. Category B includes boats operating offshore with winds up to 40 knots, Beaufort Force 8, and significant seas up to 13 feet.

Category C — Inshore. Category C is for boats operating in coastal waters and large bays and lakes with winds to Force 6, up to 27 knots, and significant seas 7 feet high.
 
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My boat is CE rated Category A, and I sure wouldn’t want to be in seas over 13’ and over 40 knots of wind. [emoji15]

Before I added the mast it was supposedly “self righting”, but I have a feeling the large windows would be blown out before a wave flipped the boat. And if it flipped, what happens to the passengers? Ridiculous.

So, I just don’t know about those CE ratings.
 
This going to be your boat.
No one boat will satisfy all your needs, wants and desires.
Find the boat that fulfills most of your IMPORTANT requirements, buy it and dont look back.
 
What level do i choose?

Based on the advice received, seems like Seahorse Marine is top of the list. However, there seems to be 4 levels of lrc trawlers at Seahorse: super diesel duck, diesel duck, coot and the new puffin. All but the super can be had in 38ft, the coot and puffin can be had in 35ft. The basic boat (hull, engine etc) seems to be almost identical, difference seems to be "trim level" so to speak. The only major difference seems to be the electronics pkg (all Seahorse's comes with a complete electronics pkg included in.the base price). Is this correct?
 
Pieyed47 said:
You might want to think out of the box a bit and look at this.

https://www.boats.com/sailing-boats...36418/?refSource=similar listing#.W8Ewa7xKhxA
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These boats cross oceans. Sometimes it's hard to think outside of the BOX. I would recommend you take a long hard look at what you really want to do with a boat and not get fixated on snoot values. When you very far offshore and things get bad there is no pulling over and waiting out the storm. It's all up to you to ride it out, Try heaving to with a Trawler and see how well you fair in heavy breaking seas, WITH 40k wind and 50k guests. Have you ever been in that situation? If not you better look long and hard at what you can single hand after being up for hours and hours fighting a storm, relying upon A boat with hydraulic steering. Think about it. If you are far enough offshore chances are now one will come to your aid, especially in the extreme latitudes. I am just saying.
 
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Pieyed47 said:
These boats cross oceans. Sometimes it's hard to think outside of the BOX. I would recommend you take a long hard look at what you really want to do with a boat and not get fixated on snoot values. When you very far offshore and things get bad there is no pulling over and waiting out the storm. It's all up to you to ride it out, Try heaving to with a Trawler and see how well you fair in heavy breaking seas, WITH 40k wind and 50k guests. Have you ever been in that situation? If not you better look long and hard at what you can single hand after being up for hours and hours fighting a storm, relying upon A boat with hydraulic steering. Think about it. If you are far enough offshore chances are now one will come to your aid, especially in the extreme latitudes. I am just saying.
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From a long time power boater with limited sailing experience; Can you heave to in a single sail rig like the Nonsuch?
 
Boatfever said:
From a long time power boater with limited sailing experience; Can you heave to in a single sail rig like the Nonsuch?
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Nope.

The Non-such are really nice boats. As a sailor and a traditionalist, I always was a little suspicious of the single sail design, however their performance is quite good as long as you don’t need to beat to windward.

For ocean crossings I’d pick a sailboat or motorsaillor over a blue water trawler. However, I think it best to pick the boat that is ideal for what the boat will be used for 80% of the time. So unless you plan on crossing oceans a lot, go with a boat that will work best for what you will be doing most of the time.
 
Boatfever said:
From a long time power boater with limited sailing experience; Can you heave to in a single sail rig like the Nonsuch?
Click to expand...

You would want to figure this out before you head offshore. It's doable with a storm trysail and the helm hard over. There is a good chance you will need drogue to help slow you down. and you would be on a learning curve, every boat is different. I would only heave to if I was too exhausted to continue. My strategy would be a storm trysail, drogue off the stern(warps) and keep trying to sail.

Storm Trysail — UK Sailmakers
 
To all posters here, Thanks for all the input! You have given me a lot to think about. I wish to offer a public apology to Richard (Wxx3), sorry I was such a chowder head! Am sending off an inquiry to the owners of the diesel duck clan for info on the different classes of ducks. Let you all know when I get more info!
 
Does not matter what boat you buy, you will alway here, "You should have..."
Buy what meets most of your requirements and do look back.
 
Don't think large saloon windows are a good idea for a heavy-weather boat. Dogged doors would be a positive.
 
This might do the trick.
 

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Why so much HP on NT 42?

I have an NT 42 with 540 HP. Two good reasons:

1) cruise all day at 8 1/2 kts (without tide push or pull) at 1400 RPM and 5.9 gal per hour. i.e. very efficient, comfortable cruising. Can always back down to 1200 RPM to extend range and/or improve fuel economy.

2) sometimes when it gets a little to sloppy out there, it’s nice to have the option to kick up to 15 kts and put the roiling seas behind you. Always plan for safe, calm passages, but the weather doesn’t always cooperate.
 
Maybe my Willard 36 sedan which will be for sale next year.
 
DeFever 44 or 44+5 (49 CPMY)

Wide side decks with high rails
Port and starboard doors, plus door to the sundeck aft
Walk in engine room with workbench and easy access to everything
Horseshoe Galley up and aft with pass thru window to sundeck
Washer / Dryer in Utility room (master)
Separate shower (master)
Twin (naturally aspirated) 135's (perkins or lehmans pre-2005 models)
Generator
900 / 1100 gals fuel (44+5)
350 gals fresh water
40 or 50 gals black water
Plenty of room to install a watermaker
Room to install solar panels and wind generator
Dingy deck (actually there are 11 decks with the 44+5 (49 CPMY)
Huge storage space everywhere (44+5 has lazzarette storage as well)
We lost bell and a small Christmas Tree on ours (49). Never found the tree.
Full displacement boats. 44 usually takes stabilizers, the 44+5 doesn't really need them with the longer keel and flat after section
Won't get cabin fever in these boats
Plus there is so much more.

The DeFever 49 RPH is a much bigger boat. Remember they cube dimensions on boats. That's why the 44+5 is stated as such. It's a 44 foot boat (cube) with a five foot extension on the stern (+5).

The 45 RPH (now 46) and the 49 CPMY (cockpit motor yacht) is now 50 foot and even that one foot makes a huge difference in internal volume of space.

Bob
 
DeFever 44 or 44+5 (49 CPMY)

One more very important item and that is the large "Seachest" with all the below the waterline thru-hull fittings going into one tall box (seachest).

Most have a removable port on top for quick cleaning. All have removable Plexiglas lids (never removed ours in 6 years). All have a grate at the opening at the hull. Has room to add more thru-hulls (we did add one for water-maker, but never installed).
 
Pieyed47 said:
This might do the trick.
https://www.yachtworld.com/barche/2004/Sable-31-Offshore-Trawler-Tug-3117772/Canada#.W8XuoWhKhxA
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Nice boat at a great price.
There’s no pics of the hull but it is advertised as a semi displacement hull. It seems similar to the Nordic tug.

I’d much prefer a full displacement hull when things get really ugly out there.
In my view, a hull with flat sections and squared edges creates unpredictability in rough water. Once you get past the point of the good initial stability, you are at the mercy of the power of the wave.
 
Someone come up with the cash and you can buy my boat so I can start of on another boat. SMIRK

I dont know anyone who would turn down a good offer on their boat. LOL
 
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Albin 40 or 48 North Sea Cutter

The Albin 40 or 48 North Sea Cutter has the Hunt designed hull of the North Sea Patrol boats with the "all weather" hull designs. The Tournament Express series has the same hull. There are a couple other boats out there with this hull. Pretty much rated capable of seas at the length of the hull.

For us though, since we're ICW folks and GreatLoopers (completed 2011), I think our next boat will be the American Tug 34.

Bob
 
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