Winterization - pressure tank

Hello folks,
This year I added a 5 gal pressurization tank to my plumbing and that is the first time I will winterize with it.

As I have a valve to bypass the pressurized tank I was planning to remove it and bring it back home.
I was wondering if I should do that or just leave it in place?

I removed all the water pressure by turning off the pump and opened up faucets.

L

I keep the accumulator tank in place and run Propylene Glycol from the tanks through the pump and into the plumbing everywhere, including the accumulator tank. For my hot water heater, I drain it first. Then let a little antifreeze pump into it to displace any remaining water. Then drain it again. I have a bypass on my hot water heater. I leave the drain and vent on the water heater open and pump the AF through the rest of the plumbing.

I always bypassed the hwh and drained and then opened the water tank(s) to drain.
Then take a wet vacuum and suck the water out of each line on the outlet side of the water pump starting with the furthest fixture away from the water pump.

Greetings,
Mr. L_t. Over the last 30+ years I've always left the pressure tank in place on those boats that had them. Regarding water lines...I've used both vacuum and pressure to clear the lines of any water AND I've added RV anti-freeze afterwards. In doing so, I've never had a problem...yet. One thing I've found that IF anti-freeze gets into the water heater, it takes, what seems forever, to get rid of the taste of the AF despite repeated flushing and rinses. So, I drain the water tank, leave the drains/valves open (as mentioned above) and bypass the tank with a temporary "shunt". YMMV...


Edit: I'm assuming your expansion tank is mounted vertically with the air valve on the top and the water orifice on the bottom.

I rigged my system, I too have a pressure or accumulator tank, so the tank is the high point immediately after the pressure pump but is lower than the faucets.

I used several tees to make a manifold which is permanently attached to the accumulator tank. I also rigged all those connections, pump intake, pump output, hot water tank input with hose coupling fittings and some valves. I can shut the valves so I don't get blasted, then disconnect the hose couplings and drain the accumulator so no water is left in it.
I can then winterize the rest of the system including the remaining lines and the pressure water pump.

We don't get the cold you do Lou, but we do freeze so it must be done.

Just like the water heater, if you run antifreeze through a 5 gallon (why so big?) accumulator tank, it will take several more gallons of antifreeze and be a bear to get out in the spring. So bypass it. But then you have to drain it just like the water heater. If you don't have a valve, just break the connection on the bottom and let it drain.


David

I wasn't as clear as I should have been.
I do NOT put antifreeze in the accumulator/pressure tank for the reasons D.M pointed out. It is just well drained and the pressure bag will push out , if not all water, enough so what remains is not a problem.
The tank is arranged so the water entry is at the bottom of the tank, not the top.

C lectric said:

I rigged my system, I too have a pressure or accumulator tank, so the tank is the high point immediately after the pressure pump but is lower than the faucets.

I used several tees to make a manifold which is permanently attached to the accumulator tank. I also rigged all those connections, pump intake, pump output, hot water tank input with hose coupling fittings and some valves. I can shut the valves so I don't get blasted, then disconnect the hose couplings and drain the accumulator so no water is left in it.
I can then winterize the rest of the system including the remaining lines and the pressure water pump.

We don't get the cold you do Lou, but we do freeze so it must be done.

Click to expand...

CL
Do you leave your vessel in the water? We do in Sidney. We drain water lines, when not on vessel, but keep ER heated. No AF anywhere in water system.

For the water heater I installed a bypass so Not to put antifreeze in it. I will simply drain it empty (or almost empty), even if few water remains in, formed iced will have enough space to expand without damage.
For the pressure tank I drained as much water as I could before closing the valve. I do not want to put antifreeze in it either ( for all the reasons mentioned before) but as it is setup vertically with the water outlet at the top I guess quite a volume of water remains inside so I better empty it properly.

L

We hook the accumulator tank up with a std hose connection with the nice armored hose for washing machines , from a big box store Home Cheapo.

To winterize the hose is disconnected , and the water drains into the bilge.Done,

KISS.

Sunchaser,
I A/F. only the pressure water pump. There is water retained in it so I A/F it. The remainder of the system is drained only.
Yes the boat remains in the water.
I too keep a low level of heat on but I do not depend on it. Power is actually quite reliable, so far, but outages are not unknown, although short.

Lou ,
my accumulator sits atop the manifold so it can be drained.

FF,
I like your idea of the armoured washer hoses. Next round I will go that route.


Just for anyone considering the water hose coupling I do not use the typical hardware cheapies. Costs me a few buck more but I get them from my local small town industrial supply. FAR, FAR better quality. May be overkill but they seal reliably, the fittings thread nicely together. No fighting with them.

Oddly enough after mentioning power outages, guess what. THe marina and a whole much larger area is down for the night. Glad it is no where near freezing weather yet. Just a warning to be prepared.

I hope the clear water hose I see , is in a constantly dark place!


Clear hose is happy to allow enough light to enter to grow green slime in the hose.

I have the Jabsco all in one ultra max system. I’ve blown two bladders in six years . The PO installed it upside down and I’m not able to get all the water out of the bladder. He was in Florida so it didn’t matter .
Both of my water tanks are seeping , so this year I’m disconnecting the water pressure system and carrying it home , draining all lines and both tanks completely. I’m hoping I can repair my tanks over the winter on my own and have everything back in shape by spring .

FF said:

I hope the clear water hose I see , is in a constantly dark place!


Clear hose is happy to allow enough light to enter to grow green slime in the hose.

Click to expand...

What you see is the only clear PVC hose in the system. It never sees light unless the hatch is open when I'm working down there. Easily replaced if it ever gives me trouble.
Your point is taken though and when replaced it will be with an opaque hose, silly me.

We don’t have to winterize anymore, that’s now work in the engine room season without a heat stroke.

One big hassle in winterizing is the water heater.

The RV folks have bypass kits, you install it once , turn a valve to drain the HW heater and in bypass add you can pump red goo into the system , and not a drop goes into the heater.

Marty , toss the Jabsco Junk , install a small unit from home cheapo , and never look back!

FF said:

One big hassle in winterizing is the water heater.

The RV folks have bypass kits, you install it once , turn a valve to drain the HW heater and in bypass add you can pump red goo into the system , and not a drop goes into the heater.

Marty , toss the Jabsco Junk , install a small unit from home cheapo , and never look back!

Click to expand...

This is exactly the setup I made this year when I replaced my heater. Now I won’t spend gallons of water to rinse the heater to remove the antifreeze.

L

"Now I won’t spend gallons of water to rinse the heater to remove the antifreeze."

I have found if the pink goo is installed itshould never be used just as a system flush.

The Fw system should be left filled .

IF the pink goop is allowed to dry out in a partially full system it hardens , and multiple flushes are required.

i also have a 5 gallon expansion tank, from home home depoe, the directions say 2 Lbs less than the turn on pressure, so i put 18Lbs in it, also cut the wires that go to the pump motor switch, i [yrs ago] installed a Square D well pump switch, on at 20, off at 40 Lbs, works great! replace one every 10+ yrs...cost abt $15 at any hardware store! always keep a spare onboard. very positive starting/stoping...clyde

clyde said:

i also have a 5 gallon expansion tank, from home home depoe, the directions say 2 Lbs less than the turn on pressure, so i put 18Lbs in it, also cut the wires that go to the pump motor switch, i [yrs ago] installed a Square D well pump switch, on at 20, off at 40 Lbs, works great! replace one every 10+ yrs...cost abt $15 at any hardware store! always keep a spare onboard. very positive starting/stoping...clyde

Click to expand...

Did the same for my on/off. THe switch can be seen in my photo. The first lasted about 18 yrs. I installed a diode across the + & _ on the motor side.