Fuel tank replacement job

fryedaze said:

To address the area where the tanks sits on the supports I plan to glue plastic to the tanks with 5200. The aluminium will not be in contact with any surface.

Click to expand...

I have set tanks on Dridek tiles, which works well. Only raises them about 3/8", and allows enough circulation to dry out, even if you hose the area down occasionally.

Gluing plastic to 5200 would work, if you can get the 5200 to stick long term to the plastic. I'd suggest flame treating the plastic before gluing.

windsecho said:

Hello Fryedaze,,Jack & Judy aboard "Regalita" Just wanting to say Hi,and will watch your progress on tank replacement.Take care Jack

Click to expand...

Hi Jack, tomorrow we see if a full size tank mock up will fit. It it does not, we will go with two tanks. Good to hear from you. I will continue to entertain with updates.

fryedaze said:

Hi Jack, tomorrow we see if a full size tank mock up will fit. It it does not, we will go with two tanks. Good to hear from you. I will continue to entertain with updates.

Click to expand...

With a good sawsall anything will fit...

ktdtx said:

I see these type problems and often wonder why the "blivets" (rubber tanks) used by the army and others couldn't be put into a frame to prevent rolling around and use that as a tank replacement. Rather than removing engines and using a Sawzall on anything but the offending tank.

Click to expand...

You can but better still are the fuel cells that ATL makes.
http://atlinc.com/marine.html

Poly Tanks

I recently had a 1200 litre tank fabricated out of 10 mm poly sheeting that was welded in the shape I wanted and it is fantastic, they used black poly and cut a slotted window in the end and welded white opaque poly in there so that it created a sight gauge, BSP fittings where ever I wanted them so I could screw plumbing into it, no corrosion and know cracking

fryedaze said:

To address the area where the tanks sits on the supports I plan to glue plastic to the tanks with 5200. The aluminium will not be in contact with any surface.

Click to expand...

Can you tell me what kind of plastic you plan to use? I'm also in the process of installing new aluminum tanks.

Carl Martin said:

Can you tell me what kind of plastic you plan to use? I'm also in the process of installing new aluminum tanks.

Click to expand...

I haven't sourced it yet. Fiber reinforced plastic.
Haysite or any of the fiber reinforced plastic sheet. Recommended by David Pascoe.
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm

when (not if) I replace my steel tanks it will be with "plastic", complete with welded~in baffles. Given new fabrication techniques and materials and widespread adoption by commercial vessels in Australia I have no hesitation with this approach.

fryedaze said:

I haven't sourced it yet. Fiber reinforced plastic.
Haysite or any of the fiber reinforced plastic sheet. Recommended by David Pascoe.
How to Install an Aluminum Fuel Tank : Boats, Yachts - Maintenance Repair and Troubleshooting

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info!

These guys do exactly what you're talking about.


Triple 'M' Plastics » Custom Fabrication


Ken

kchace said:

These guys do exactly what you're talking about.


Triple 'M' Plastics » Custom Fabrication


Ken

Click to expand...

That may be the answer to tanks corroding. I am toying with the idea of replacing my tanks before they begin to leak. I like the idea of plastic tanks.

Mockup

Based on some rough estimates I thought I might have a 50% chance of only installing one tank. The new tanks are 2" shorter in height than the old one due to interferences. I built a mockup and it almost made it. It needed to be 1/2" shorter to get around the corner. I cant shrink it anymore due to support locations. It was worth a shot. I now have measured drawings and they have been sent off to fabricators for firm estimates. Now its time to paint out that half of the ER.

When painting in the engine room I use aluminum foil to mask things. It is really easy to crimp it around hoses and wiring. It is also very easy to remove when you are done. Still have to tape somethings but the foil works in most places.

Dave - Don’t force it; get a bigger hammer!

Comodave said:

When painting in the engine room I use aluminum foil to mask things. It is really easy to crimp it around hoses and wiring. It is also very easy to remove when you are done. Still have to tape somethings but the foil works in most places.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the good idea.

fryedaze said:

Based on some rough estimates I thought I might have a 50% chance of only installing one tank. The new tanks are 2" shorter in height than the old one due to interferences. I built a mockup and it almost made it. It needed to be 1/2" shorter to get around the corner. I cant shrink it anymore due to support locations. It was worth a shot. I now have measured drawings and they have been sent off to fabricators for firm estimates. Now its time to paint out that half of the ER.

Click to expand...

I'd be willing to come over, drink your beer, and supervise.

Ted

O C Diver said:

I'd be willing to come over, drink your beer, and supervise.

Ted

Click to expand...

No way Ted! Your standards are too high. I couldn't take the pressure.

Paint

Nothing very interesting to share. Finished the tile repair on the aft wall and the prep and painting out of the area. I painted the tiles with Kilz paint. I used it six years ago on accessible areas and it has held up well. I used Rustoleum Topside gloss white for the rest of the ER. I painted out some of the bilge and under the engines six years ago and it has held up to oil and fuel very well. I have requests in to three fabricators. One has returned a bid so far. I will give the other two until COB Monday and then pick one.

Leaking fuel tank

Most tank leaks are small - only ounes per week. Has anyone tried cutting a hatch-way into side or end (as in photos), cleaned the tank, then injected a liquid tar-like sealer, similar to that used in the original steel tanks, to plug the pin holes? Might last for another 20 years. The cut out part of the tank could used to fashion a reusable hatch by attaching it to a larger steel plate with a gasket.

Looking good, remember exactly how you are doing this so you can come and do mine...

Wings said:

Most tank leaks are small - only ounes per week. Has anyone tried cutting a hatch-way into side or end (as in photos), cleaned the tank, then injected a liquid tar-like sealer, similar to that used in the original steel tanks, to plug the pin holes? Might last for another 20 years. The cut out part of the tank could used to fashion a reusable hatch by attaching it to a larger steel plate with a gasket.

Click to expand...

There is a thread on TF where tanks were sealed inside after cleaning. I considered that option. My tank accessabilty prohibited that idea. The tank had two full baffles. That would require three manways to get access. The work would be hard doing it through a 12" manway. The new tanks are not that expensive compared to some other boat repairs.

ER Yoga

Dave:

You are fortunate to have a spacious opening to your engine room for your ER yoga. This second (lower) photo is a bit mystifying, though.

Miz Trom said:

Dave:

This second (lower) photo is a bit mystifying, though.

Click to expand...

I am crawling over the engine to get out. The distance between my chest and the ceiling is about an inch. The mockup has my escape route blocked

Your doing a great job. Can not wait to see you do the other tank.

Deckape said:

Your doing a great job. Can not wait to see you do the other tank.

Click to expand...

Port tank is not leaking YET. I will probably tackle that one next summer.

This is amazing to read and see your photos. thank you for taking the time and extra effort to include the details of this process. please don't forget to include a budget at the end.

I look at my tanks every day and wonder..."when?"

I'm also considering upgrading my nicely varnished but unevenly sanded parquet flooring in the salon with teak and holly (to match the pilothouse) along with a few other joinery updates/modifications (tv lift, etc).

Granted, I was two IPA's in but this got me thinking: why not remove and replace the tanks from the top by removing the floor rather than cutting up the old tanks for removal and removing the engines to make room for replacement?

Perhaps not for everyone (especially if you're not planning interior flooring/finish changes) but if I'm thinking about replacing the flooring anyway, removing the joinery and galley cabinets and cutting out the floor doesn't seem like it would be too much effort.

PS - I have all my BEST ideas after three IPAs so this might only be 66% of a good idea.

Nothing wrong with removing the floor IMHO....certainly no worse and likely better than cutting out hull sides or bottoms. But if in addition to open flooring areas you also have to demo galley and other cabinetry that is otherwise perfectly sound, that would give me pause....and require a 4th IPA.

"..certainly no worse and likely better than cutting out hull sides or bottoms"

Chopping a huge hole in the side of a steel or aluminum vessel is fine as welding will restore the metal to near its origional properties.

In a GRP boat the patch will require reinforcing that will make the repaired panel flex differently from the un-cut panel, as well as the rest of the boat.

On a big boat the hulls are usually more than 400% stronger than the expected loads , mostly to add longevity giving stiffness to the hull. .

Tampering with the hull strength would scare me to stay in lakes and bays and never dare the blue water .

Much appreciate the thorough and well documented tank job, looking forward to seeing the finished product.