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Old 07-20-2018, 12:27 PM   #14
Wayne.B
Member
 
City: South Western Florida
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 49
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBG View Post
I'm looking at a 1978 32 Grand Banks Sedan. Over all it is in very good condition except for the decks. Has anyone replaced their teak deck? What is the approximate cost? I DONT want to remove the teak and do a "glass over". I feel this would help to "ruin" a classic. Thanks!

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Just did a teak deck removal on our Grand Banks 49 last winter. I did it myself with the help of an experienced shipwright. The goal was to remove all of the old teak, fill all of the screw holes with epoxy, apply multiple coats of white gel coat, mask off for "islands" of non-skid, and apply two coats of Durabak non-skid. Describing it is the easy part but the devil is in the details. Total labor time was approximately 280 hours; 70 hours of mine; and 210 hours for the shipwright at $60/hour. Materials, supplies and tools were about $2,000 for a total cost of around $15,000.


Removing the old teak was time consuming. It was held down with a combination of adhesive and small screws - about 2,000 of them. Approximately 10% of the screws broke off during removal which required using a special core drill extraction tool. Filling, and refilling, the screw holes with epoxy was tedious and time consuming. Some of the old teak came up relatively easily after the screws were removed, other sections where the adhesive was still well adhered, required the use of crow bars, wood chisels and small sledge hammers. It was a lot of work. The good news was that the underlying deck structure was still sound and required no repair.



There were several technical and procedural challenges, the biggest of which was the re-design/re-fabrication of the three large lazarette hatch covers in the rear of the boat. The new hatches had to sit flush with the decking, use the old hardware, and be structurally sound. The other major challenge involved the four deck fills for fuel and water. There was no possible under deck access for fitting new filler pipes to the tanks so the deck fills ended up proud of the new decking by the thickness of the old 1/2 inch teak. We decided to fair the deck upwards to match the height of the fills which sounds easy, but ended up being very time consuming.


Applying the Durabak non-skid to the masked off "islands" also proved to be interesting. Two coats of Durabak are recommended with some cure time between coats. We originally expected to pull the masking tape after the second coat but that proved to be impossible. Fortunately we'd done a small test section first because that masking tape had to be cut loose with a straight edge, utility knife and chisel. It turned out that the solution was to pull the masking tape while the first coat was still wet, and freehand the second coat. Both coats were brushed on since rolling a test section did not go well.
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