Stinking Head, replace Joker valve?

I have a head that bubbles and smells from the holding tank after it is flushed.* I think this is a worn out Joker Valve.* Is this something a guy with a decent set of tools can replace?* Is this the problem?* I can identify the head make and model if need be.* It is electric.* Thanks in advance..* Woody

Joker valves are pretty easy to change. Why don't you let us know what the make and model is and we can be more specific. There are often other sources of oder from marine toilets as well. Buy Peggy Halls book to learn everything you need to know about eliminating head odors.

Yes, the joker valve can let odours back up from the holding tank along with brown water from the hose.

You may also want to check that the tank vent line is clear. On some vent fittings there is a small screen to prevent flashbacks. If that is clogged from wasps, or overflow matter pressure will build up and force water and odours back.

Replacing the Joker is a snap, If the stink continues it could easily be the HOSE!


Many will not pass the smell test , an easy one to perform.

3 years ago when my head was bubbling it was a clogged vent line.

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I raised the*toilet up 3 and eliminated the*choker which seem to cause some clogging.* Most marine toilets not as high was dirt toilets, so raising the toilet help the boys/guys/males hit the toilet easier, and also easier for the girls/females to sit and get up easier with out a messy wet seat.** * It seems to help eliminate some of the toilet seat discussion.*

PS.* Thanks RickB for pointing out the errors.*



-- Edited by Phil Fill on Monday 21st of November 2011 10:20:18 AM


-- Edited by Phil Fill on Monday 21st of November 2011 10:24:44 AM

jleonard wrote:3 years ago when my head was bubbling it was a clogged vent line.**

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I'll carefully avoid the opportunity for*several great puns and just say that I second your opinion.

The*most likely*cause of*bubbling is a higher pressure in the tank and piping downstream of the bowl. A good set of valves might prevent it but the root cause is elsewhere.

Replacing leaking valves*may just pressurize the system more and might*lead to*a worse outcome than stinky bubbles.

Phil Fill wrote:I raised the toile up 3 and eliminated the cocker which seem to cause some clocking.*

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*Yeah, OK. Did the slithy toves quit gyring and gimbling after you did that?

Sorry forgot to mention that I have two heads.* The forward one works great.* Hit the button and flush it down and then no bubbles.* The aft head flushes great too, just when you stop flushing it bubbles and stinks like Hell.* The issue is getting worse.* If it was a clogged vent then I guess*both heads would behave the same?* I do have a spare joker valve so it won't hurt to replace that, although I don't know how to approach it.* I will post the make and model when I get a chance.* Thanks everyone who responded.* We are cruising so having the head attached to the master berth working OK is becoming pretty important!

So a stupid question maybe, do both tanks empty into one holding tank?
If that is the case then the tank vent line is less likely the cause although not impossible. I'd still check the tank vent line to be absolutely sure it isn't contributing.

It is possible that you have a clog or a kink in the hose of the problem toilet. Salt buildup, amongst other stuff can stick to the hose ID reducing it to a tiny hole. It is allowing some material past but not easily so the line doesn't clear and then the pressure buildup pushes material back.

You will have to pull the hose off and replace it completely or if new stuff isn't available take it to the dock or shore and slap it a few times on the dock to break the accumulation up and get it out.. Be carefull as matter will fly. I've had to do this a few times over the years. I then replaced the hose when at home although now I carry a piece long enough to replace the old hose when there is a problem.

To do this clean the line with a water only flush. You may need to do this several times considering the problems you are having.

If you haven't replaced the joker valves then you really should AS PART of the repair.

Joker valve it is.* Can someone tell me where it is and what tools I'll need to get it done?* The heads seem pretty conventional.**Electric using raw water, but I don't see a name or some way to identify them.

I'll take one apart to figure it out if I have to.* But I figure with all the know-how on this board...

Thanks in advance.* If my answers come in strange it is because the <enter> key on my boat computer is broke.* of all the keys that could have broken...* Why that?

The location of the duckbill valve will vary from toilet to toilet but I suspect it's usually located in the same place in the discharge line--- where the line leaves the toilet itself. On our ancient Groco EBs the duckbill valve is mounted on the heavy flange around the output port on the bronze toilet base. A plastic 90-degree elbow fits over the duckbill valve and turns the discharge from vertical to horizontal and provides the attachment point for the hose to the discharge selector valve.

If you get a rebuild kit for your toilet it will most likely include a new duckbill valve as well as instructions for installing all the rebuild kit parts.

A 1/2 inch or so box wrench and a slotted screw driver is all the tools usually needed.

They are almost always at the base of the pump, just where the discharge line takes off.

Thanks all for the pointers.* I think I got it, just need to remember to order another one for when the other head gives up.

Who made all this smell happen anyway? Sheese where there is smoke there is pobably fire and where there is stink there is probably $hi.. somewhere causing it..

My mama always said if you don't like work.. don't look for it or was that don't buy a boat*

Now I know the reasons for what was causing odor, forward toilet hose leaked. This was causing squishy floor and some odor*and*the hoses was full with black sewer stuff all over it inside and out.. wonder what that was?
Hoses from holding had discussing stuff too that had dripped from them ( must have been the neighbors that went for a trip - last time for them*)
There was a collection of grey water from the washroom sink too.
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Bilge has been totally cleaned and floor boards has been cleaned with acetone and painted. There will be no smell now.

Tk God the Aft-toilet was working well and no issues.
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Yacht will be ready to leave shed on Friday. Enough work for now!!!!

Elwin*


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jleonard wrote:
3 years ago when my head was bubbling it was a clogged vent line.

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That will do it.* So will a tank that's full.

For the OP - Find the make and model of the head and go to the manufacturer's website and look for the owner's manual amd maintenance instructions.*

Usually, there is a "maintenance kit" available that includes the joker valve and other wear components and it will probably have instructions in it.

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Hello,

I replaced the joker valve problem solved.* The old one was completely gone.* Thanks for everyones' input.

Woody

Ocean Breeze NL wrote: Enough work for now!!!!

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Before you go you really should consider pulling that thru-hull and gate valve. It looks like there is a steel reducing nipple leaking and rotting away. It doesn't look like it can withstand much of a side load without breaking off. When was the last time that valve was cycled?

Not to mention that the valve appears to be a standard NPT plumbing fitting threaded onto an unsupported straight thread thru-hull.

Ya.... great observation..*

Changed already.. just never mentioned it..

Elwin*