Re-configuring my wash down setup at bow

I have a Jabsco 120vac rubber impeller utility pump, 118100003
https://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-11810-0003-General-Impeller-115-Volt/dp/B000O8DAVY


It came with the boat. I had to majorly repair and rebuild it as the motor shaft rusted to the impeller and it had to be torched off. The rear seal had failed, so a perfectly good impeller I had to destroy. I got a new entriely rubber coated seal from the bearing supply house, much better design than OEM and even changed the metal spring to a rubber o'ring, so no more leak, and no more corrosion.

But it works fine again. This time I used Rectorseal T plus 2 on the shaft to keep away any water.

It sucks up raw water from a through hull, then I split the output front and rear.
My rear hose is 3/4" or 5/8" standard garden hose.
But the front hose which runs through the bilge up to the bow, I used a 1/2 inch garden hose. It is perhaps 40 feet long and I don't like the volume and pressure up there at the bow. So I am going to change to a 3/4 " garden hose which will take me hours to remove the old hose and put in the bigger hose.

Do you think it will improve the water flow using the bigger diameter hose?
How much PSI does this pump create?

I went with a Globe run dry impeller on the rebuild.

Try connecting the same length of 3/4 inch hose to the pump, run the hose temporarily thru the boat to the bow and see the results. If the run and rise are comparable to the final installation, the results should be similar.

I'd recommend a proper reinforced hose in place of a garden hose for marine use below deck.

You'll have a little more water volume and a little less water pressure with the bigger hose. A good spray fitting will help with that some.

Jabsco 11810-0003 Flexible Impeller Utility Pump
Product Details Page:
FEATURES
Pump Body: Bronze
Port Size: 3/4" Garden Hose External Thread and 1/2" NPT Internal Thread
Flow: Up To 9.6 GPM at 10ft of Head
Pressure: 17.3 PSI Max
Impeller: Nitrile or Neoprene
Shaft Seal: Lip Type
Shaft: Stainless Steel Sleeve over Motor Shaft
Motor: 1/3 HP, 115V AC 60 HZ, 1725 RPM, Single Phase, Capacitor Type, Open Drip Proof or Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled.
Handle and 8' Cord with 3 prong grounded plug on ODP motor only.
Optional Vacuum Switch Available for Automatic Shut-Off Operation.

I need to upgrade to something better than our current 24v 18lpm pump but won't be dropping $1000 or more (Australia) on a jabsco.

Will get one of these when next ashore and see how many years I get from it
Slightly better spec to above jabsco and 1/8th the price.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-600w-transfer-water-pump_p4816178

Simi 60 said:

I need to upgrade to something better than our current 24v 18lpm pump but won't be dropping $1000 or more (Australia) on a jabsco.

Will get one of these when next ashore and see how many years I get from it
Slightly better spec to above jabsco and 1/8th the price.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-600w-transfer-water-pump_p4816178

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Its cheap for sure, thing is I see it is some kind of metal, maybe pot metal- aluminum, wont last long pumping salt water.

I agree the Jabsco is a lot of money, I would not have bought it, but it came with the boat.

sdowney717 said:

Its cheap for sure, thing is I see it is some kind of metal, maybe pot metal- aluminum, wont last long pumping salt water.

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True, but i was actually thinking that pump housing was plastic, i could be wrong.
If the pump section is rubbish metal there are other brands with plastic, even s/s ends for similar and even less.

I was hoping it would be as robust as our 4th and 5th bilge pump which are same brand, 240v submersibles and have been living down in the bowels for god knows how long yet pump like a madman when tested.

I agree the Jabsco is a lot of money, I would not have bought it, but it came with the boat.

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Yeah, I have a bit of a downer on them at the moment as I need a spare raw water for the engine and that's over a thousand as well.

Mission critical so not a lot of choice there.

SDowney - That Jabsco pump won't do much heavy duty pressure washing with a maximum operating pressure of 17.3 psi.

Simi - the Ozito pump is worth a try. That one is rated at 4000 kPa (580 psi) so should give a good hard spray without lifting the paint.

Ozito are starting to build some decent budget gear. I bought one of their cheap jackhammers for about $70 and have got my moneys worth many times over.

AusCan said:

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Ozito are starting to build some decent budget gear. I bought one of their cheap jackhammers for about $70 and have got my moneys worth many times over.

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I have been using them as my expensive metabo, bosch, Hitachi, makita gear give up their smoke.

I have smoked a few ozito products over the years but have had no drama getting new for old replacement on the spot even when the tool has clearly led a hard life and been covered in epoxy.
That'd never happen with expensive gear, in the shop for months and me doing without if I'm lucky but more likely weaseling out claiming abuse of product.

Add: that ozito pump has a

Warranty Info
3 Year Replacement Warranty

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If I get 3 years it will have paid for itself, if not, a shiny new one thanks.

We have a $150 Karcher high pressure washer hooked up to fresh water deck tap so we can give the boat a quick salt free rinse in 7 minutes. The Karcher uses minimal water

So much effort for a pump that has a cutoff of less than 20 psi.



I have 2 of these https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pumps-10-13407-07-Aqua-Wash/dp/B0073JNWL0
One sits between the water tanks and provides fresh water to two washdowns, one on the bow, the other in the cockpit. The other lives in the bow and pulls seawater from a 1" thru hull that was formerly a macerator discharge. It's piped to a 2nd washdown on the bow, both quick-connects https://www.westmarine.com/buy/jabsco--stainless-steel-washdown-quick-connects--P011_335_001_507 so the hose can be switched between fresh and seawater. They develop pressure that rivals most dockside pressure (or about 70 psi) and plenty of volume (5.2 gpm). They've both been in service for about 10 yrs. They're a perfect application for washdown.

Washdown pump

Seems to me that using a "garden hose" will lead to pressure loss. Try PVC maybe for most of the run if you can. I ran copper tubing through the anchor locker and under the forward berth before converting to stiff reinforced hose. I had acceptable pressure, or should I say, really strong spray. That was my old boat. My new boat has not shown an ability to put water through the spigot yet. Need to see what the current owner can get done before I take possession. Ah, no, this is not a drop dead kill the deal issue while we continue to negotiate improvements needed from the survey.

Is the bow outlet higher than the stern outlet? I have a washdown system that works well in the cockpit but less so on the bow and is not much more than a dribble on the flybridge. The pump just doesn't have the pressure to overcome a head of more than a few feet. You might want to check that before making big changes.

Maerin said:

So much effort for a pump that has a cutoff of less than 20 psi.

I have 2 of these https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pumps-10-13407-07-Aqua-Wash/dp/B0073JNWL0
One sits between the water tanks and provides fresh water to two washdowns, one on the bow, the other in the cockpit. The other lives in the bow and pulls seawater from a 1" thru hull that was formerly a macerator discharge. It's piped to a 2nd washdown on the bow, both quick-connects https://www.westmarine.com/buy/jabsco--stainless-steel-washdown-quick-connects--P011_335_001_507 so the hose can be switched between fresh and seawater. They develop pressure that rivals most dockside pressure (or about 70 psi) and plenty of volume (5.2 gpm). They've both been in service for about 10 yrs. They're a perfect application for washdown.

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Slick. Sounds like the model system.

Jeff F said:

Is the bow outlet higher than the stern outlet? I have a washdown system that works well in the cockpit but less so on the bow and is not much more than a dribble on the flybridge. The pump just doesn't have the pressure to overcome a head of more than a few feet. You might want to check that before making big changes.

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That's a really bad pump.

Our current wash down is a 24v Johnson WD 3.5 and that's 7 ft under the cockpit floor.
Our front deck is 3 ft above that
Our top deck is 4 ft above that
And an outdoor shower on the ceiling 6 ft higher again.
That's close enough to 20 ft with no noticeable drop in pressure.

Interesting facts regarding pumping water (or not)

The hydrostatic pressure of fresh water is 0.433 psi/foot (1 psi drop for every 2.31 feet of head) With salt water, the hydrostatic pressure is about 5% more.

A long hose will also cause some pressure drop when flowing, especially if its a small diameter hose and a high flow rate. With the water shut off and the end of the hose, there is no pressure drop other than the effect of hydrostatic pressure.

Maybe I should try our old pool pump which works.
It is all reinforced plastic with SS seal, continuous duty pump.
The pool pump produces high volume, high pressure and has a builtin strainer basket.
And the pump could be connected to a well pressure switch to turn it on and off with demand by using a PVC check valve to hold the pressure. So pull trigger, pump comes on, let go, pressure builds, pump turns off, on demand. I suppose then the 1/2 inch hose could work ok at the bow. With that switch, you also can adjust the PSI of the pump.

I also have an old McDonald jet well pump, heavy cast iron, I got cheap at a yard sale, but I know the cast iron would rust a lot.

sdowney717 said:

Maybe I should try our old pool pump which works.
It is all reinforced plastic with SS seal, continuous duty pump.
.

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A thought I have had also.
We have a spa on the front deck that we have only used for dropping fenders in.
We'll be getting rid of it soon but it does have an onga balboa pump @ 300 litres/hour.

It also happens to be what our Jabsco 7420-0101 raw water pump for the engine puts out so I have been thinking deck wash/emergency raw water pump maybe?

Many of the new dirt house shallow well water pumps are almost all plastic,

1 1/2 suction with 1 1/2 or 1 inch discharge and 40-60 PSI .


Non marine pricing $ 150 or less in the USA.


Sure it will need a bigger thru hull but you can blast chain clean faster.

If you don't mind an even bigger thru hill a clutched engine driven 2 inch pump is about 100GPM , great for wash down , fire duty or as a real emergency bilge pulp.

Simi 60 said:

A thought I have had also.
We have a spa on the front deck that we have only used for dropping fenders in.
We'll be getting rid of it soon but it does have an onga balboa pump @ 300 litres/hour.

It also happens to be what our Jabsco 7420-0101 raw water pump for the engine puts out so I have been thinking deck wash/emergency raw water pump maybe?

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Those pool pumps could EASILY supply the engines with raw water. They have to flow a lot of water through filters to keep pools clean.
And some pools uses salt water and all pools use corrosive chemicals and the pumps are well made, designed to run all the time, and you can easily get parts for them.

I am looking at mine, I have 2 here. I decided to take one apart and clean it up, paint it, grease it, and use it for my wash pump. It can also be used as an emergency bilge pump. Since I have 120vac, I can run this no problem, I do also have an inverter and generator.

A couple things, the motor shaft has a short section exposed between motor and pump, should be painted, greased and maybe rubber tube pressed over top. Motor end plates should be well painted, the internal armature can be painted and greased, the steel internal motor shell can be smeared with grease or sprayed with white lithium lube and around the windings, the centrifugal switch, etc...all with marine water resistant grease, just to let it last a long time and be reliable pump.

I started on my refurbishment of this 3/4 HP pool pump. Pump is a Dynamo, DYN 11-N1-3/4
Amazon still lists this, and mine is old. I see more powerful dynamo Pentair pumps for less on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Pentair-DYNII-NI-Dynamo-Single-Aboveground/dp/B001GDY3WG

Disassembled the whole thing, cleaned it all and painted the end bells.
Bearings are in good shape.
The air exposed pump shaft was rusty. I primed, painted, then greased and heat shrunk a rubber tube over that, so it will not be rusting again.

The armature, I disassembled the centrifugal switch, cleaned and put a coat of primer on exposed parts. If a motor sits a long time, it can rust armature to stator, and do not want that to happen on the boat.

I should have the pump together today and next week working on the boat.

I have cleaned up the motor housing and the bolt down foot I will coat with some PL to prevent rust, on top of the grey primer. Pump motor was black, I am painting it buff.

When kids were young, we had an above ground pool. I kept the pump and sand filter. Then my friend gave me his pump for his above ground pool, so I now have 2, but his needs a new impeller, which is maybe $25 I don't have to spend..
Impeller for the pump I am using in the boat is # 35-4552

For my purpose 3/4 HP, motors draws 9 amps, is plenty. Other pump is 1HP.

I have the pump in and it works ok, better than the original pump.
I went with the 1 HP pool pump as it is able to shoot water out farther from the hose nozzle than the 3/4 hp pump. the 1 HP pump is 2 inches longer than the 3/4 HP pump.

I have a simple on-off switch, so one side of the outlet is switched, other is on all the time. To prevent deadheading the pump (which does not bother it that I could tell), I tapped into the reducer bushing and ran a 3/8 hose that dumps water to the outside of the hull by way of a small through hull made of a 3/8 copper tube glued into the hull. That will also tell people the pump is on, being so quiet and did not want it left running dead headed for a long time.

I included a check valve in the pump outlet. This prevents water from draining out of the hoses.

I used teflon pipe dope and teflon tape on the joints, and they are dry, no leaks.

I never could make the well pressure switch work, it seems these pumps do not put out enough PSI, and no switch I found had a low enough PSI, which is ok, because stopping and starting them takes a big surge of current. So when the switch is on, the pump is always on.

Pump is very quiet.